Karen and Cheri's best exotic Indian adventure

Eat Pray Love

karenleslieburns — Mon, 24 Nov 2014 08:25:00 GMT

Our Indian adventure is now over, but our minds are full of new experiences, tastes, sights and sounds that we will never forget. We've seen the real India which at times made us cringe, sometimes cry, often laugh, more often admire. Even though we stayed in the laps of luxury, we all realized that the most beautiful sights were the smiles and the colour of the people we mingled with every day. We were greeted with kindness and welcome in every city. We always felt safe (well except for the probability that we were going to be hit by a cow or a passing scooter, or fall down a ditch or off a broken sidewalk when looking the wrong way). Our guide and drivers were incredible, and our new friends and travel companions were delightful. I would gladly come home, repack and do it all over again if I could. Thanks to all of you who read this journal and enjoyed coming along for the ride with us. It was great to receive your comments and well wishes, and I hope if any of you have an urge to visit India you'll ask us to share our stories again and take a look through our 1000+ photos that didn't make it into the journal just because it was impossible to find enough time to write and capture it all.

Namaste

The royal farewell dinner

karenleslieburns — Mon, 24 Nov 2014 07:58:00 GMT

Our last evening in Udaipur at the beautiful Lake Palace was topped off with the most amazing dinner party you could imagine. We were transported by boat to our royal barge as the sun was setting over the lake. After finding our comfiest spots reclined on tiered and pillowed lounges, we were served wine and appetizers while savoring the view and sharing our memories of these incredible two weeks in India. To our surprise, six oarsmen then appeared to man their stations and transport us quietly and smoothly around the lake to gaze up close upon the palace and the other beautiful buildings along the shore. It is like the Venice of the east, with picturesque bridges and colorful walls and gardens in every direction. As night fell and we swung by the softly lit arches of the old city wall to our next surprise five bejewelled dancers twirled out each to an archway where they entertained us with traditional dances to exotic music. It was spectacular. From there we cruised back to our mid lake dock and moved to our seats at the dinner table as our meal arrived on a smaller barge manned by chefs and waiters who boarded and served a delicious Indian feast hot and spicy and oh so delicious. An evening we will never forget.

Day 13 - The Lake Palace at Udaipur

karenleslieburns — Thu, 20 Nov 2014 13:05:00 GMT

What a magnificent way to end our stay in Udaipur! We were treated again to a perfect day of warm weather under a cloudless sky. After a morning massage and hair treatment in the spa, we had a delicious breakfast overlooking the lake, then boarded our boat to the mainland to tour the city palace. The palaces were built in the 1720's and have been occupied and unharmed until India's independance, at which time the King turned them over to tourism, keeping part of the complex for his family's private residences.

The artwork and architecture are both magnificent and beautifully restored. Visitors have lots of freedom to walk around and through all the chambers. After our last dose of history, we opted for more shopping, of course. First stop was Pradesh were we loaded up with beautiful hand made bags and textiles, and yes, more pashminas (I think we average 5 pashminas each by this stage, but really who can have enough accessories?)

Next we went to a marble shop to feast on accessories for our homes. We are all in love with the marble dishes and statues we see at all of the properties we have stayed. Now the big bucks are coming out to pay for these pieces to be shipped back, hopefully in time for Christmas.

Everyone pretty much split up for the rest of the afternoon, exploring the markets for that perfect last gift or something colorful and clean to wear to dinner (after 2 weeks our wardrobe is pretty tired and too often seen). We're told to expect something wonderful for our last evening together.

Day 12 - travel to Udaipur

karenleslieburns — Wed, 19 Nov 2014 12:47:00 GMT

After another morning bike ride we packed up and said goodbye to our beautiful haven in the hills. Along the road to Udaipur we stopped at several Hindu temples, still learning about this fascinating culture and history. It helps that our guide is a Hindu named after the first god. He is also of the warrier clan, so he keeps us very well protected. Honestly we haven't felt unsafe at any time on this journey, the biggest fear is being crashed into by a cow, truck or scooter, or falling down a ditch or twisting an ankle on broken pavement.

We arrived at yet another beautiful palace just before sunset. It is the Lake Palace owned by the King of Udaipur. Many of the scene from James Bond's Octopussy were shot here. We are slap dab in the middle of the lake, accessible only by boat. Rather opulent really, but you can't get sick of this beauty.

Awaking this morning to the sun rising over the city palace and a million pigeons perching along the courtyard walls.

Day 11 - relaxation retreat day

karenleslieburns — Mon, 17 Nov 2014 21:55:00 GMT

We took a morning bike ride through the fields and wandered through the village with a local guy who I'm sure will be the mayor of Delwarra quite soon. With much pride and cheer he introduced us to the villagers and craftsmen who made jewellery and pots for us and offered us food in their homes. We took a million photos and learned much about life in a small town of 650 with Hindus and Muslims living happily side by side, but the caste system very much alive today. Most of them are vegetarians and 50% are Janes, who never harm an animal or eat anything grown in the ground.

The afternoon was spent by the pool under a sunny sky and in a perfect temperature. Everyone is nicely relaxed today. I think wine time will be an early one tonight!

Day 10 - Delwarra Village

karenleslieburns — Mon, 17 Nov 2014 21:35:00 GMT

Today we had a leisurely start with time for a spa treatment before hitting the road again for a 5 hour drive to Delwarra Village. We passed through the heart of marble country, miles of vendors selling granite and marble slabs along the roadside. Lots of roadwork and heavy traffic made the trip quite arduous but it was worth it all when we arrived at yet another spectacular palace, Devi Garth Fort.

This magnificent property is 250 years old, sitting in a peaceful rural valley surrounded by small farms and the cutest and cleanest of villages below. We enjoyed our wine time this evening on the terrace followed by a delicious dinner that offered us a bit of a break from all the Indian food we have been consuming.

We slept well in our suite high atop the land, ah yes, the land of Kings and Queens indeed!

Day 9 - Shopping in Jodhpur and dining like royalty

karenleslieburns — Mon, 17 Nov 2014 21:21:00 GMT

After another delicious breakfast poolside, we set out on foot into the markets of Jodhpur. Our first stop was the spice shop operated by two sisters who are carrying on the family tradition. We bought teas and spice mixes and some real saffron, hoping we encounter no problems bringing them back home in our bags.

We had a very entertaining demonstration from the "Hermes guy" selling cashmere throws, blankets and scarves. His former customers include Brad Pitt and Richard Gere he claims. Next we were on to the Sari shops to chose our garments for the evenings dinner at Mehrangarh Fort over looking the blue city.

We were visited in our rooms by hotel assistants who draped and pinned our saris on us. Feeling like queens we proceeded up the hill in our fleet of tuk-tuks to the palace that was now closed to the public, so that we could enjoy our private tour of the inner chambers and enjoy a most magnificent view from the fort ramparts high above. We dined on the terrace by starlight and candlelights served by our turbined friends in traditional Indian fashion.

It was fabulous!

Day 8 - Mr Toad's wild ride to Jodhpur

karenleslieburns — Mon, 17 Nov 2014 20:28:00 GMT

Today we rose early to get in a few laps in the indoor pool, and a cleansing steam and sauna before breakfast on the lawn. The service is truly impeccable, and we all feel like royal guests. We are wondering if our 5 room suite was perhaps also enjoyed by Jackie O or Lady Di when they stayed here. (Cheri and I drew the long straw and lucked out with the best of the suites - sweeeet!)

Our afternoon has been spent on the road, 6 hours drive to Jodhpur. We've seen more of the "real India", rural and poor, not so pretty, trash all along the roadsides, cows everywhere, many on the roads which are an obstacle course of trucks and trailers darting in and out in both directions. Women herd goats along the roadside or carry baskets of cow dung on the heads. It's been a wild ride. They say to drive in India you need three things: good horn, good brakes, good luck. Fortunately we have all three!

Day 7 - Elephants in the bush

karenleslieburns — Mon, 17 Nov 2014 20:17:00 GMT

Jaipur has been a fun shopping experience. We've haggled in the jewellery markets and gone crazy in the linen and textiles stores. The antique market is fantastic, chock-a-block full of treasures from the Jaipur palace. The vendors are very pushy there, but it's worth the agravation to experience the Persian rug sales pitches.

To top off our time in Jaipur we were treated to an elephant safari and dinner we will never forget. After a tour of the Amer Fort, an immense former palace high on the hillside out of town, we wound our way through a charmingly colorful and lively village and out to the bush camp where our Asian elephants were waiting to transport us at sunset along a bush trail to a beautiful outdoor clearing with a patio lit by torches and fire pits. We dined on an all organic Indian feast prepared table side by our personal chef and local farmer. An Indian musician played a traditional instrument nearby for our listening pleasure. It was a beautiful experience under the stars we will never forget.

Day 6 - a day in the pink city

karenleslieburns — Thu, 13 Nov 2014 12:15:00 GMT

Today we started with breakfast on the lawn by the polo field. Entertainment was provided by the sitar player in the tower. Birds of all colors darted overhead from the trees and the palace rooftops. Peacocks roam around all over the property.

Shopping was the main goal of the day, but we spent the morning immersed in a bit more history with a visit to the Jaipur observatory where we were expertly shown the ancient instruments used to measure time and astrology. That followed by a few hours at the City Palace where the current King and his family reside. Most of the buildings in this city are painted terracota pink and date back three hundred years to the time this city was planned and built.

Even though it has the same chaotic feel as Delhi, it's a more comfortable and beautiful city. The markets and shops are bustling but well organized into sections of town depending on the wares they are selling.

We visited the jewellery and textile shops for some serious retail therapy.

Day 5 - travel to Jaipur

karenleslieburns — Thu, 13 Nov 2014 11:28:00 GMT

After a leisurely breakfast in the courtyard, Cheri and I hit the courts again for one last match. We have become quite accustomed to having a ballboy to assist us with those pesky stray balls and questionable line calls. We made a quick stop at the spa on the way back to our private plunge pool and readied ourselves for our flight to Jaipur in the afternoon.

We arrived at the Rambagh Palace a few hours later, abosolutely blown away by the beauty of this property. We have a four room suite with a private patio overlooking the polo field. As night fell, the palace and grounds illuminated, a flutist seranaded us in the courtyard, and we joined our friends in the palace dining hall for an Indian feast. The food is quite delicious and the presentation and service fit for a king (or a bunch of would-be queens as it is).

The Taj Mahal and Agra Fort

karenleslieburns — Wed, 12 Nov 2014 13:19:00 GMT

Hard to believe it, but we have seen the seventh wonder of the world today. The Taj Mahal is as beautiful and amazing as we expected it would be. Combined with a visit to the nearby Agra Fort, we have learned so much about the story of this monument to love and have walked back in time to the era of Kings and Queens.

Day 4 - train to Agra

karenleslieburns — Wed, 12 Nov 2014 13:04:00 GMT

We left Delhi early before sunrise to catch the 6am train to Agra for our day trip to see the Taj Mahal. Arriving at Delhi railway station we stepped out into a sea of people, street food vendors, cars, rickshaws, tuk-tuk's and motorcycles and the constant beeping horns that we have grown used to hearing. We formed a congo line and wormed our way through the bodies of people sleeping in the waiting area. Many sleep there overnight, some were just transiting waiting for connecting trains. We travelled in first class, of course, and had a comfortable 2 hour journey through "the real India" which is rural and poor. A brief delay on route to remove a water buffalo that we crashed into and got lodged under the carriage. Normal, they have people on board for that job.

The sights along the track are both heartbreaking and mesmerizing. So much poverty. Shanty towns that go for miles with people cooking outside, hanging laundry on the roof, defacating in public, trash piled up on the outskirts, cows and goats tied up to trees. Technically it's not poverty as you can see from the satellite dishes on the roofs and apparantly most residents have cellphones and occupations.

The air is pretty bad here. Not a cloud in the sky, but always a haze hanging quite low. Blue sky peeks out for a few hours midday. Temperature is very comfortable this time of year and there is little or no wind.

Delhi Old and new - Day 2 & 3

karenleslieburns — Mon, 10 Nov 2014 05:01:00 GMT

Our two days in Delhi has been a sensory overload and an experience to remember. The sights, sounds, smells, and functional chaos of this city astounds us. Hopefully the pics will tell some of the tale. Early rise tomorrow to catch the train to Agra.

Delhi - Day 1

karenleslieburns — Sat, 8 Nov 2014 07:03:00 GMT

Arrived in Delhi at 3am this morning. Feeling pretty good after 20 hours in the air....thank you Emirates! What a fun ride.

It's a bit smoggy here, and very humid, but the temperature is good. Our hotel is fabulous. We have a private plunge pool in our room and more amenities than the 4 seasons! We took a refreshing dip and a morning nap before hitting the courts for a couple of sets of singles (with a ball boy and marker provided). Every good shot was rewarded with applause and chilled water and cool towels were offered at every change of ends.

The girls from Downunder arrived tonight and we have all become fast friends over gin & tonics in the bar, and an Indian feast served al fresco. Old Delhi awaits us tomorrow.

Photos: Travels with Cheri

karenleslieburns — Tue, 14 Oct 2014 13:14:00 GMT

India 2014