Intercontinental adventurer

Gallery: Costa Rica

julrich — Sun, 13 Jul 2008 16:01:00 GMT

Central mountain region

Gallery: Puerto Rico

julrich — Mon, 30 Jun 2008 16:19:00 GMT

Gallery: Los Angeles

julrich — Sun, 22 Jun 2008 16:42:00 GMT

Gallery: San Francisco

julrich — Mon, 9 Jun 2008 18:40:00 GMT

California

San Francisco

julrich — Mon, 9 Jun 2008 18:32:00 GMT

I write as the Coastal Starlight, an Amtrak train, caresses the California coast on my way to Los Angeles, the only person in my sleeper cabin, sipping complimentary champagne. Now before your imagination takes flight, to spare my credit card yet another assault, I opted to pay for my ticket with cash 30min before boarding, with the result that I’m sitting on the side of the train without the views, hence forcing me to make good use of my time in alternative ways – updating my blog.... here begins my diatribe on the fair city San Francisco.

I arrived at morning rush hour from a restless night’s flight to find a balmy city, the sun already high in the sky. Immediately, the vagaries of Downtown meet you as you step out the BART (underground train) station. It’s not that I had no foreknowledge, it’s that I didn’t expect the amount of nattering, put-on familiarity of strangers only because I was walking the streets with a suitcase, and then there’s the obviously mentally ill, homeless, and inebriated – not characterisations of the same people. Yes, San Francisco is the postcard photos, but it’s also many other things.

And that’s the sentiment I learned most about in my 7 days in the city. It’s a place of contradictions. Beautiful weather lasts 2 or three days, then the fog bellows in from the Pacific, and for the next 3 days a pall covers the city like the Table Cloth falls off the side of Table Mountain. But with the fog comes the cold wind chill, forcing you to ditch the board shorts and t-shirt that was uniform in Hawaii for a slacks and overcoat, encouraging thoughts more of London than of California. But this is the true San Francisco, so know this when visiting “the city”.

Over the last century almost 100 movies were shot in this city, popularising it’s vistas throughout the world, and with good cause. Using the MUNI (public transport) Weekly, the travel pass used by the locals, I ventured around the city with unlimited glee, with only a $1 surcharge on the cable cars. But if you visit SFO, can you really not ride a cable car or two? The trolleys alone bring back images of yesteryear, as do so many of the Victorian houses, and quaint diners which function just like they’re shot in movies – down to the bucksome waitress swishing a pot of coffee! Background music in all shops and establishments is positively retro – maybe a dedicated radio station – but tastefully so, spinning the likes of Foreigner, Billy Joel, Gladys Night, Stevie Wonder, and early Elton John. I enjoyed the playlist so much, meal times even got me to reconsider my stance on 80s music :D

SFO is a very cosmopolitan city, more than any other I’ve encountered. P-flags adorn more buildings than the Stars And Stripes, nationalities and languages from all over the world can be seen and heard, but locals are largely Latino and African Americans, with a sprinkling of Asian and White faces. Couples are both cross race and also for each persuasion, this in a city where a bar is named The Makeout Room with by-line “PDA encouraged”. Of course, the Castro District is best described as gay headquarters, but only in the next neighbourhood is the birthplace of Hippies and LSD, Haight and Ashbury (an intersection). There’s the well-off Seaview with vistas of Golden Gate Bridge and the Pacific, and the more eclectic Mission District where I found my lodging, each coexisting so easily side-by-side. I’ve visited many cities, and what struck me about San Francisco is that I didn’t see one place where I wouldn’t reside. Now some neighbourhoods ask from some adjustment, but none are totally reprehensible... it’s all a matter of taste... and wealth. But if you compare the neighbourhoods, you’ll find either modern architecture, or the characteristic Victorian look. But more than that, public transport is well developed and utilised throughout, leaving no “dead spots”, and almost all areas have views hills or valleys, it being San Francisco.

I can’t say I left my heart in San Francisco, but I can admit to it making a worthy impression on me, and even the Americans I met along my journey.

Gallery: Hawaii

julrich — Tue, 3 Jun 2008 18:36:00 GMT

Oahu

Honolulu, Oa’hu, Hawai’i

julrich — Tue, 3 Jun 2008 18:28:00 GMT

Before entering the United States, lowly South Africans need to apply for a visa. Although the process is simple, US immigration is stringent, and I’m sure the FBI and Homeland Security both have retinal, fingerprint, and handwriting samples from me. But compared to Australia, and contrary to what I expected, when entering through a port, the US is a breeze – not that their security is any less, you just don’t feel like a criminal entering Foxworthy (a Prison Break reference for the Pop-culture-challenged :D). But to get to Hawaii, I’d probably endure anything, so read the aforementioned merely as a comment.

Oahu, hosting the capital Honolulu, in the archipelago state of Hawaii, is a beautiful place. Much bigger than you’d expect (referring also to my time in Koh Samui), the island is largely divided into two: tourist mecca is on the south (Waikiki), while most of the locals inhabit the west and north shores. But if, like for me, you’re visiting for the first time, whether you would prefer a more local exposure, stay in Waikiki. Transport and tourist information is more readily at hand, and once under your belt, you can always return to a more secluded experience.

The hostel that was my home for 7 full and glorious days was 5min walk from Hawaii’s most famous beach. But more than that, it was home for a bunch of travellers whom at that time and place banded together and became one heck of a social group. We retained individuality, but when out together, the local bars and nightclubs became our playground. It was a week of bliss, pure enjoyment and for some, significant memory loss. But more than the fun, we enjoyed taking in the sights: Pearl Harbour (resting place for 1800+ WWII soldiers, casualties of a surprise Japanese attack), Waikiki Beach, Waimea Beach, Hanuama Bay, and for me, Kualoa Ranch (location for several movies, most notably Jurassic Park).

But for all the stories shared around the group for that week, it’s my last day on the island that I’ll cherish the most. With some crafty suggestion, I managed to negotiate the rental of two convertibles for the group. We all climbed in, some still braving hangovers, and set off for our quintessential Hawaiian experience: music blazing, roof down, lots of chatter, looking at the sights. We came across fantastic vistas and crystal clear waters, making a quick dip or photo op the order of the day. Without question, my African driving skills scared the shit out of some of my mates, but the memory of beach volleyball on Turtle Bay will stand the test of time. That, and being dropped off at the airport in style: a red Ford Mustang, America’s muscle car.

Hawaii has definitely earned a “must go back to visit” accolade in my book. Whether I return to Oahu, or brave Big Island or the equally scenic Maui is irrelevant, it’s that I cannot leave this earth without again dipping my toe into Hawaii’s turquoise Pacific.

Gallery: Seoul

julrich — Wed, 28 May 2008 11:53:00 GMT

Seoul

julrich — Wed, 28 May 2008 00:05:00 GMT

When I included Seoul in my trip all those months ago, I knew the 5 days I planned to stay here would likely be the most daunting of my entire trip... and they were! Caused more by the confluence of many issues: not being able to communicate in Korean, having no prior familiarity, Korean cuisine not being the most appetising, or just a general lacklustre. I admit to being spoilt by Singapore, and more so, I had to deal with some work-issues that left me just going through the tourist motions, and retreating to the hotel to nurse my head cold.

But that said, I did manage to get around the city enough to get a good grasp of what Seoul is: a huge city with an even bigger population, and a discernable preoccupation with Western culture, especially in the youth. I can say so comfortably because the baby boomer and older generation are noticeably true to Korean culture, and wholeheartedly so.

It’s actually quite comical watching the young Koreans. Most are polarised between the recurring 70s fashion of London or the hip hop culture of America. But juxtapose that to a preoccupation with hairstyles – and largely feminine / model styles – I had to keep a straight face many a time. It’s also mirrored back to them in their pop culture... Korea still has a host of pop soloists and groups, and boy do they go wild at the sight of one! (I stumbled upon the clichéd pop star opening of a new shopping mall.) But to be honest, I saw the same thing in Singapore, and sometimes in Bangkok too. So let’s just say it’s an Asian trend, and leave it at that.

So to why I’m in Seoul: it’s the capital city of one of the oldest cultures in history. In contrast to Thailand, Korean monuments are not temples but palaces, similar to London’s monuments. So to visit Korea is to peak into the history of a culture that has survived itself, and several attacks of China, Japan, and its war-prone sister country to the north. I found docile people struggling with the advent of Westernisation, but still proud of their history. But I also found a city that’s probably 4 times bigger than London, with a population to match. Seoul is so big that the international airport has now been relegated to its own island! The subway system has 8 lines, and it can take 3 hours to traverse it on a single train... that’s huge! Tourists shouldn’t consider using busses as they’re only marked in Korean, which makes navigation almost impossible. Underground stations are so big that they often are several storeys themselves... and many of them have their own underground malls... or even a museum!

It’s not a place I would like to visit again, but I can say that Seoul lived up to my expectations, and put me through enough adversity for me to know that I’m tempered well for travel. Having said that, I know there’s worse things that can happen while travelling... But if anything, it was a good place to recharge my batteries before tackling the great USA!

Singapore

julrich — Mon, 26 May 2008 11:58:00 GMT

For those less-informed out there, Singapore is a true city state, an economic powerhouse, and also an island country off the south coast of Malaysia. Originally a British colony for the purpose of international trade and shipping stopover, Singapore hasn’t lost any of its history, and today it’s the largest cargo port (in raw tonnage) in the world! Using the wealth generated by this industry, Singapore of today is way more than a shipping port, it’s also a fantastic place to be, and for me, a place I may even consider calling home!

I only had three days in Singapore, but boy was I busy! I found myself dumbstruck at how clean everything was, how efficient public transportation is run, and also how naturally beautiful the island was. I’ve heard the term “garden city” before, but I didn’t know what that actually meant until I visited Singapore. The entire city is like it was built in the middle of a rain forest, so green and alive everything seemed. It rains twice a day, and the rest of the time it’s humid, so it’s a good climate for all things green... or if you sell airconditioners :D.

But if you’re not into the ecotourism thing, the Singapore is also one heck of a shopping mecca, making Canal Walk and V&A look like Pep Stores and BP OneStop! International brands, too many for me to even recognise, all have stores in the city. But if brand names don’t float your boat, then you’ll be dumbstruck and the number of markets and factory outlets, not to mention the “made by hand” stalls everywhere you turn. There are 3 malls devoted sole to computers, camera and sound equipment – think about that: 4 floors of IT heaven... and there’s 3 of them! All this during the Great Singapore Sale, a country-wide 2-month sale in all stores!

Needless to say, I stayed far away from such distractions, choosing rather to spend my Rands touring the city instead of its malls. I will definitely be back, and next time I’ll have Pounds, so it’ll be a whole other story next time around! :D

Being a very cosmopolitan city, there are attractions and cuisines for all tastes. And after all that fish in Thailand, this is just what I was after! But after 3 days of pure sight-seeing exhilaration, I toasted goodbye to Singapore, thanking it for a fantastic time, in the only way you can... with a Singapore Slinger!

Gallery: Singapore

julrich — Mon, 26 May 2008 11:47:00 GMT

Gallery: Thailand - Bangkok

julrich — Fri, 23 May 2008 11:43:00 GMT

Gallery: Thailand - Koh Samui

julrich — Sat, 17 May 2008 11:38:00 GMT

Thailand

julrich — Sat, 17 May 2008 11:32:00 GMT

Now here’s where my trip really begins! No office to call, no friends or family to depend on... here’s where I’m completely at a point on the planet, with only my creativity and vices to contend with. And boy is Thailand a good place to start!

Koh Samui

Samui is one of a number of islands off Thailand’s coast, second in popularity to the more famous west coast island of Phuket. It is also my first experience of a tropical island. But what I learned, and what’s also not shown in my or any other pictures I’ve seen, is the truly caotic nature of life on a 3^rd world tropical island (which most are). You contend with almost complete disregard for road rules, potholes the size of car tires, and a modicum of motorbike overloading by the locals. But despite all the caution I received not to hire and use an motorcycle, and despite having learned the hard way – falling off, but luckily only my sunglasses were casualty – I can’t think of how I could have had such a good time on Samui without having done just that... whizzing around this tropical paradise on a scooter. And in reality it’s the first thing all other tourists did, fearing for life and limb on a regular basis, so when in Rome...

What’s also good about a scooter is that it gets past the rank smells faster than you can smell them, but more so, it lets you experience all there is to see and find on Samui. Although I’d choose to visit another Thai island next time, I think my 5 days in Samui was jam-packed with sightseeing, but I could have done with more time.

My first day, though, didn’t go as planned. I arrived to find the accommodation not as advertised. But instead of complaining immediately, I hit the road to “research” alternative accommodation to fit my budget. It’s in this 3 hour period that I learned all there is to know about Samui’s main town Chaweng’s beach road, and also the smells and potholes mentioned earlier. I got hassled to buy suits, DVDs, apparel, food and clothing at every corner, and then there were the offers of massages ;)

Like an idiot I footed it all the way, only to find that when I did in fact complain to my accommodation, they simply referred me to their sister resort (literally), which was located on the beach. So having wasted my time, and having forked over some extra cash, I managed to secure an airconditioned bungalow on the beach with only the pool, bar, and white tropical sand separating my door from the bath-like tropical sea!

Having learned my lesson, the next day I rented a scooter, and off I was to see the sights... with my trusty map, camera and water bottle at my side.

That night brought the first of Samui’s party culture, which only starts around midnight, and in off-street clubs, the best of which the locals frequent themselves. But be aware ladies: don’t leave your man alone... them there are no angels! :D

Every month in Samui, when the moon is full, Thai and tourist alike flock to neighbouring Koh Phangan island for a ritual moon howl (in modern commercial terms – with house, RnB and reggae music) for what is an all-night fun parade. I lost my friends before it even started, so I came away thinking “it lived up to expectations, but there was no oomph”. But what I can say it’s a once-in-a-life experience that you just gotta do if you’re going to go all the way to Thailand.

My last day returned to sightseeing and desolate beach spotting. I pulled up to a yet another beautiful temple that caught my eye from the road, only to be invited in by one of the monks! Now this is truly exceptional, and I didn’t bat an eye when he hit me up for a donation, but that’s only because of the time he took to tell me the whole life story of one of their buddahs. Reconnecting later with my friends for my last night jaunt, I recanted the story while sipping cocktails (respectable glasses, not the jugs of the nights before) before we finally succumbed to an invitation to see a lady-boy show.

Samui, Sarah and Rocco, thank you very much.

Bangkok

Ok, time to get serious! The fun has to be put on hold, because I’ve only got 3 days in Bangkok, and there are temples aplenty to see!

Bangkok was a rude awakening! I landed, got onto the airport shuttle, but by the time I found myself in the city, the clouds just opened up... and here I am: backpack, red suitcase, shorts and tshirt! And to make matters worse, none of the locals understood where the hotel was. But I learned a new lesson: when in a non-English country, get the directions translated!

Ah, such bliss when I finally saw my hotel room, but I was straight into the shower!

I awoke the next day to start my sightseeing. Grabbing a bus, I was walking to the first temple when “where are you going” interrupted my map-reading session. I looked up to see a Thai face and his friend smiling at me. They proceeded to tell me it was my lucky day, in that “today is Bangkok Tourist Day... didn’t you watch the news?” Of course I don’t understand Thai, so what’s the point of watching tv, but I didn’t say that. They proceeded to explain that I could use a tik tik (trike taxi) for the whole day for a single charge of 20 Baht (read: basically free). And not only that, but temples usually closed to public would today only be open... this is how an off-the-charts day began.

It ended with my having seen all the temples I wanted after being upgraded to a personal driver and tour guide in my own car who showed me all around Bangkok and patiently waited out my exhausting photo-taking session. He was great company too. I tipped generously when he dropped me off at my hotel, leaving me to begin my recovery.

My last day, devoted to accomplishing tourist odd-and-ends, started with a train to the Sunday markets, a visit to one of the huge shopping malls, and finished with a cocktail on the roof of one of Bangkok’s hotels, and a peak into the city’s clubbing scene.

Gallery: Sydney

julrich — Fri, 2 May 2008 18:58:00 GMT

Gallery: Brisbane

julrich — Fri, 2 May 2008 17:58:00 GMT

Paid holiday :)

Gallery: Perth - Cuan & Hayley's Wedding

julrich — Mon, 17 Mar 2008 17:05:00 GMT

Gallery: Perth

julrich — Mon, 17 Mar 2008 16:46:00 GMT

Perth

julrich — Fri, 22 Feb 2008 17:24:00 GMT

Ok, I’ll come clean! Embarking on a trip around the world hot on the heels of a business trip to the Middle East and London was a total fluke! More so, a round-the-world ticket is a dream come true for me – “like little boy learning about big people’s world” kind of dream. Cuan, my best (guy) friend, asked me to be his Best Man, and of course I agreed… to a wedding in Perth. I wracked my brain for 3 days when looking at flight prices, and then struck gold – a round-the-world ticket would get me to Perth and to several other places I’ve always wanted to visit… and for less than a return ticket from South Africa! As for the business trip: they asked and I accepted. The timing was marvelous!

Which is how I come to be in Perth. I’m writing this several weeks into my time here. I’ve done some sightseeing, but the focus has rightly been on the bridal couple. But since they’re now on honeymoon, leaving me to housesit for just under 3 weeks, I can finally catch up on my blog posting… all 3-month’s worth. :D

Perth, renowned for being the most isolated city in the world (and noticeably so), is the capital of Western Australia. While stretching quite a wide area, Perth is largely suburban (residential) with wide roads and slow driving (the speed limit in all Australia is 120km/h and is well-enforced). Perth’s CBD is really quite small, but the port of Freemantle on the south bank of the Swan River helps to give you the impression of metropolis substance.

When coming to Perth, you’ll find it quite relaxing and quiet. There are suburban hotspots (like Joondalup) where business, local government, and entertainment nuclei make for more convenient shopping and work-life. But Perth is geared towards taking it easy! Much like Bahrain, the locals are used to soaring temperatures with little rain for months, complaining of it being “coldish” when the mercury drops into the 20s Celcius!

Perth is definitely home of the sun worshiper, which is not surprising since most of it banks a river or the great Indian Ocean. Beautiful beaches (some even designated for dog use), lush green (and well-maintained) parks literally at every corner, and the bright sunshine help Australians to ignore the UV threat and explore the outdoors with topless zeal. Students here are not only taught swimming, but snorkeling, scuba diving, and even sailing during PE classes!

What I also like about Perth is that it’s very easy to raise a family here. Ok, I’m years away from taking this advise personally, but this is how I categorise Perth. I find the focus on safety and regulation quite comforting. Kings Park, several beaches, the aquarium, Perth Zoo and Rottnest Island are all fantastic tourist spots, but more so worlds of wonder for kids. Note though that you’ll need to plan around buying a house and a vehicle should you want to relocate to Perth, because unlike places like London, sharing accommodation or single-person renting isn’t really an option. Public transport is readily available and good, but because Perth CBD is the only real hub, travelling between suburbs without a car is unfeasible.

Australians are fantastic people too. Pop a beer around the barbeque and you'll soon find your social network growing.

Durban, my last need-to-see place in South Africa

julrich — Tue, 11 Dec 2007 15:50:00 GMT

Durban is a beautiful and fantastic place, yet as a Capetonian dare I say as picturesque? Born-and-bread in Cape Town, it’s huge complement for me to acknowledge Durban as the next-best alternative to the Mother City... with Pretoria as 2nd princess, beaten only because of the beaches. :D

I spent a week in Durban, and for all my travels, this time with my family – my parents to be exact. That in itself brought upon its own challenges, but also introduced a dynamic that normally I’d exclude: a need to commute about the city. By nature I’m a sight-seeker traveler; my parents, because they were competitors in a dance competition, needed to commute into the CBD often. I too am a ballroom dancer, a hobby. I actually competed the year before in Port Elizabeth/Utenhague, but this year I was just attending to support my parents, be their chauffer, and because Durban was the last place in my must-see list of South Africa.

The Bluff

So I rented a garden cottage on The Bluff, a road separating me from the Indian Ocean. The Bluff is suburbia, 20 minutes outside Durban’s CBD, but it has the feel more of a seaside village. The only pitfall I found was that its beaches, in contrast to that of the North Shore (Durban), had rock formations all along the beach. This made entering and exiting the surf somewhat treacherous. But the shore itself was fantastic for sun-seekers, of which there were many, even in winter!

Driving around

Durban is South Africa’s biggest port. But it still took me by surprise at how many freight trucks (18-wheelers) were always on the roads. To get from The Bluff into the city, there was a constant feeling of being unsettled primarily because trucks were everywhere. Ironically, within the CBD, they used only one road which flanked the harbor, whereas elsewhere you only had to contend with the fantastic (sarcasm) driving skills of native Durbanites! :D

To a logical person – something I’ve been berated as being – road design in Durban is confounding! Firstly, there seems to be a preoccupation with renaming roads – so often that maps aren’t updated fast enough… nor the road names themselves (at places). And second, with roads as wide as 5 lanes in the CBD, Durban city planners still demarcated them as one-ways. I also found the city planners predilection for merging and forking roads quite amusing. So, in summary, you had to keep a good sense of humour when driving in Durban.

In contrast, the highways around the city were fantastic. Lush green foliage flanked each side, only giving way to sea vistas or a rondavel (rural village house) or two.

Out and about

We visited Durban during it’s rainy season, so admittedly, I didn’t get to seeing much. But I really liked what I saw of the beaches on the North Coast. But if you’ve got family to consider, then uShaka Marine World is the place to visit.

Personally, I preferred my road trips. My first was to experience The Valley of a Thousand Hills, and to continue through to see The Drakensburg Mountains. Breathtaking is all I can say!

My second was actually with my dad riding shotgun (passenger seat). We made for the Wild Coast, 200km south of Durban, so actually in the Eastern Cape (province). But we didn’t make it that far because sightseeing on “the scenic route” (instead of using the highway) took too long, and because bad weather (Durban’s rain is like a curtain of water) meant that driving in darkness (on the way back) would be risky. But both experiences are something I’d do again. Should I return to Durban, I’d probably also include a road trip up north to the Elephant Coast.