The traveler sees what he sees. The tourist sees what he has come to see. ~G.K. Chesterton

IN THE HECTIC PURSUIT OF A VOLUNTEERING ORGANIZATION

jelena3hr — Fri, 17 Jun 2011 01:03:00 GMT

Finding a volunteering organization or any kind of NGO in Nepal is a strenuous work. Not only there are zillions of them in every part of the country, but they vary tremendously in price and quality. The worst part is that most of them are nothing more than a fraud. Is someone really willing to pay 1 000 euros to volunteer (not just working for free for someone, but paying to work for someone). None of these are food & accommodation expenses nor this money goes for the community development. However, this whole discussion about NGOs in Nepal has been going on for a while and it doesn't fit in this post.

            After visiting thousands of volunteering organization websites, I came to one conclusion, and it was that I still didn't know which one do I want to go with. It didn't leave me with much choice since I was sitting in my computer chair 7000 kilometers away. There was no other solution, but to wait until arrival to Nepal. Luckily, as soon as I arrived to Nepal I met some people who knew some Nepali NGO and I ended up volunteering as an English teacher. Actually, luckily is probably wrong word, Nepal is covered with NGO's. Finding an NGO is almost as lucky as running into Starbucks while walking in any bigger US city. There is no reason to worry that Starbucks won't be found, so there shouldn't be worry that an NGO won't be found upon arrival as well. And then again, it is much more like Nepal just to let things happen and not plan to much. Coming from the West, makes us control freaks anyway.

            These Nepali NGOs aren't really western type NGOs, it is more like a tourist agency which will put you through to locals and charge you for that. My organization was Ford Nepal http://www.fordnepal.org . They charged me 7 $ a day per food & accommodation (at least it was what they say), and then extra 25$ for administration fee. Although this price is fair comparing to what many foreign agencies are charging, this money doesn't go to school or community or host family. This made me mad in a way, since volunteering shouldn't be about business, but about helping those who need help. It loses that purely human and altruistic component of voluntarism once it's turned into a money maker. (Don't get me wrong, I still enjoyed volunteering a lot, but I'll make a whole new post, once I'm done with this paperwork & administration part.) It even makes it worst when it turns out that this „NGO agencies“ are absolutely unorganized and will eventually drive you crazy when you give them money and end up running after them asking them to do some more volunteer work to fill up your daily schedule.

            When volunteering as a teacher, it's really almost impossible not to contribute to community since working with children can be nothing less than awarding. However, some other programs, e.g. volunteering renovation programs may be real tourist trap thing, since volunteers end up in the middle of nowhere painting a piece of stone for weeks. My host family became my real Nepali family, so there is nothing more one can say to support helping the local community – it's impossible to stay with them and return the same as when coming in.

            Check with the agencies which school they work with by sending them e-mails and then contact the school directly. Most of them will be more than happy to have you over, and provide you with free food and accommodation. Another option, if you are having trouble finding a volunteering spot, is to contact me and the school I volunteered with may become your next volunteer home.

WALKING THROUGH JUNGLE AND BATHING WITH ELEPHANTS

jelena3hr — Wed, 15 Jun 2011 01:33:00 GMT

After leaving chaotic Kathmandu, starts the beginning of discovering genuine Nepal. Though not quite yet. I decided to book a visit to Chitwan national park and start my wandering with one of the highly recommended experiences while in Nepal. I arranged with an agency: one afternoon rafting towards Chitwan national park, and then two nights, three days guided visit of the park (this package cost varies from 80-180 $). And I have to say it's a must visit place, amazing scenery and wildlife. For me it felt like a place for a real rest, not too big and very peaceful.

However, there is no need to book this package through an agency. All you need to do: find a bus which will take you to Sauraha, skip rafting, get a place to sleep in Sauraha, go to Chitwan national park entrance and ask for a ticket. Rafting down to Chitwan national park is nice, if you've just arrived to Nepal it introduces you to a variety of scenery, unfortunately, rafting itself it's not that good in the spring time. Water level is low and there isn't much of white water. Even in autumn time, there are many other places bigger for rafting – e.g. Annapurna region. Finding a place to sleep in Sauraha is not a problem, since as soon as you get off from the bus you'll be covered with offers. Best thing, take a cab to get you to the hotel zone and decide yourself . Entrance to the national park costs 7$ a day, which includes a guide. Just a little extra work will save you up quite a bit of money.

Chitwan National park provides with a range of different activities: elephant back riding, elephant bathing, canoe ride and crocodiles, jungle walking, bird watching, elephant breeding center, cultural program. It left me thrilled for these three days, and I'd go back again. And if you find a nice guide (as mine was) – funny, charming and helpful, try to get him to take you for a sleep over in the park (it's in one of those little, wooden observing houses in the jungle).

Extra tip#1: Shiva's dream hotel – It was in my package and there is no hot water and food is absolute night mare.

Extra tip#2: Some gin & tonic at the river bank and chilling, makes it irresistible.

NEPAL - PLANNING AND PACKING

jelena3hr — Tue, 10 May 2011 00:26:00 GMT

It was my first time Nepal, and all I was thinking : „I better bring it all with me, maybe I won't be able to get it over there.“ It's definitely not the way of doing it. Although Nepal isn't economically the richest country in the world, Katmandu and Pokhara have it all. Especially the tourist areas. Not only that they have it all, but it is much cheaper. And no you don't have to worry that your sunscreen ( e.g. ) won't be as good as the one you can find at home, as long as it is bought in a official pharmacy.

My second worry was that I don't want to spend too much time searching for all this little things I need to have with me, instead of enjoying my Nepal trip. But even this worry was unjustified, since it will take no more than a day to cross out every single item from „TO BUY“ list. Tourist areas are not that big and confusing as it may seem when trying to look them up online.

No vaccination is mandatory for Nepal. I personally took HEP A and B, which are always good to have. There is no Malaria risk in most of the areas, but you can always check directly with the region you are going to. Taking malaria pills just to feel safe, even if there is no danger is bad for your body, since malaria medicine is very strong.

Visa is obtained at the border. Make sure to bring 2 passport photos.

Don't book from home any hotels, day trips, volunteer or trekking programs, because you'll end up paying 3-4 times more and it will only make you mad when you find out everybody else is paying so little for the same thing. There is really no need. It's easy to arrange it yourself once in Kathmandu.

It's enough to come two days extra to Kathmandu, at the beginning of the trip. Make all the preparations which would otherwise be done from home and save yourself quite a bit of money.

PACKING LIST:

-Clothes:
Take clothes which is not revealing ( t-shirts, long pants). You can wear revealing clothes, but it will no doubt bring too much attention and one my feel really uncomfortable. Plus, it's polite to respect Nepali culture while there.

-Jacket

-Snickers

-Sandals / Flip flops ( or buy them there, 1.20 -1.50 Eur for a pair of decent flip flops)

-Trekking boots

-Day bag

-Water bottle – it's cheaper to refill than to buy new bottle, and it's ECO (Pokara has refills everywhere)

-Trekking backpack

TOILETRIES:

- Shampoo

- Deodorant

- Lip stuff – buy in Nepal

- Toilet roll – buy in Nepal

- Nail clipper

- Toothbrush / paste

- Sunblock – buy in Nepal (much cheaper)

- Skin cream

- Dental floss

- Mosquito repellent – buy in Nepal (much cheaper)

- Hair brush

- Chlorine drops – for water purification on trek, – buy in Nepal (much cheaper)

- Ziploc bags

MEDICINE:

-paracetamol

-pain killers

-diarrhea medicine (buy in Nepal, much cheaper, plus they know what to give you, since it's quite common among travelers)

OTHER:

- Passport photocopy for day use and some extra for trekking

- 1 Passport

- Plane ticket

- Some Extra photos ( trekking etc. )

- Health insurance details

- Nepal travel guide ( comes in very handy. You can buy Lonely planet or Rough guide in KTM for 5-6 EUR)

- Deck of cards

- Sleeping bag (if you don't have one buy it in Pokhara or Kathmandu, it's much cheaper and decent)

- Lighter

- Swiss army knife

- Pens

- Towel

- Flashlight (Head Lamp is a must have since electricity goes off often)

- Lock

ELECTRONICS
- Camera

- Battery Recharger

- Extra battery for camera

- Watch

- USB memory card

- Alarm clock

Photos: Nepal 2011

jelena3hr — Sat, 7 May 2011 16:27:00 GMT

Couchsurfing in Kathmandu

jelena3hr — Sat, 7 May 2011 15:32:00 GMT

Well, what to say. Couchsurfing is the way to travel when you are a budget traveler. Though, now I really wander is it worth couchsurfing Kathmandu, where accommodation can cost as little as 250 rupees a day (2,5 EUR). Yes, it's still worth it if you want to have someone to show you around for the first couple of day since Kathmandu can be really chaotic. Plus, it's a very nice introduction to Nepali culture if this is your first time Nepal. So Couchsurfing is worth for cultural experience part, but not worth if only trying to be economical.

However, there is one thing to keep in mind when couchsurfing Kathmandu. It's apparently common knowledge, but in my experience, I didn't know it at the time. Couchsurfing is business in Katmandu. Of course, it's not a rule, but it's quite common. Many of the host own some kind of "trekking agency". Which is not necessarily "western type agency", but they are still able to offer you very unorganized trekking, rafting, kayaking, various day-trips etc. Therefor, after spending couple of days at your couchurfing host's house (sleeping, eating, touring with them, drinking) one will eventually feel very grateful towards the hosts. This is the time, if your about to chose an agency for trekking or some kind of tourist activity where you will rather choose your host's agency then some other. This is at least the way I felt at the time, but talking to some other travelers I've found out that is quite common mistake. In this situation you are in no position to bargain or set conditions, after all they've been so kind to you in last couple of days. I end up overpaying, taking agency for sth I did not need, and cancelling all of that with quite high cancellation fee.

Let's put it this way: use couchsurfing, but do not take advice when it comes to any kind of tourist activities. If you need advice, find other travelers which are everywhere around Thamel and ask someone who did it very recently ( ask couple of them ). Most of the ppl will be more than ready to help you. Asking Nepali ppl, I haven't found very useful, since they are not the one who use tourist services, and they look at Westerns as someone who is able to pay high prices (read: price is not a problem).

First time, first day Nepal, you will most likely end overpaying for something, so try avoiding any bigger shopping in the first week. Ask around, and never admit to shopkeepers that you've just arrived (and they WILL ask you). Newcomers are like a goldmine for shopkeepers and tour operators. Here are some prices you want to be paying: cheap hotel - 250 - 300 rupees (2,5 - 3 EUR) per person for a room without bathroom ("Annapurna guest house" and "Pilgrims" are good rate of price and quality), 400 rupees(4 EUR) for a taxi from airport to Thamel (tourist area), 80 rupees (0.80 EUR) for one hour of internet ( you can find cheaper, but this is good price), 600 rupees yak wool blanket...etc. These are just examples, but remember, keep bargain until you get it your way. Don't bother walking away to find price and offer which fits you, and don't be discouraged putting the first price in half or even less. It's simply the way it works.

These are just couple of tips I wish I knew when I first arrived in Kathmandu.