We arrive to Bolivian Copacabana just after four hours sitting on bus from Peruvian Puno. Despite being assured the bus would be going directly to Copacabana this was not the case and we have to change to a collectivo at the border. Well, expect unexpected. Copacabana is a lovely small town with hippie flavour and lots of restaurants. Dinner by candles fixed all previous dissapointment but wait! There is no hot water in our room even we paid extra. Complaints to staff at 11pm did nothing to resolve it so we go to bed without a shower. There is always next day, we think. And going to La Paz next morning without a hitch? No! In middle of nowhere the bus run out of diesel! Even locals made fun of the driver. Bolivia is going to be full of surprises! And if that all was not enough we both catch bad flu and at this altitude (3000m +) it is really anoying. La Paz downtown is noisy and smogy but relatively clean and tidy. At this state we cannot possibly take Death Road biking and hence we decide to stay here for few days until our health improves. Breathing is difficult with every single body movement but we refuse to stay in bed. One day we take a local bus to Valley de Luna which is interesting sedimented mud formation erroded with rain over millenia, the other day we walk around the town looking at shops and markets. I always wanted to visit famous San Pedro jail and this sunny Sunday is the day. Iva is not so keen to mix with inmates but little convincing changed her mind. On the way we spend about 3 hours watching local musicians performing on the streets and we get to jail mid afternoon. Initial entry fee 300 Bol (US40) per person charged to tourists (and pocketted by guards and chief inmates) was dropped to 5 Bol after we learn there is an inmate from Czecho and we could pretend family relation to him. He is our personal guide for next two hours and quickly we understand this is definitely not the place to be spending a life. Our flu has somewhat weakened and tonight we book the Death Road to Corroico bike madness. Tomorrow we start at 9am to drop 3000m downhill over 60km distance where the second half follows narrow and slippery rough road with over 200m vertical cliffs on either side. Heavy rain and thick cloud spoils the views and Iva gets sometimes too close to the edge because the low cloud obscures the unforgiving depth below. We finish soaked wet but excitment takes over - we survived the most dangerous road in the world! Hot shower and buffet lunch in afternoon fixed the tireness and sore bums.
On Tuesday short bus trip to Orruro is followed by comfortable train to Uyuni where we are going to commence 3 days 4WD-ving through south-west Bolivia. Our jeep with four other tourists drives accross huge and amazing salt lake (120,000 sq km) and the first night we sleep in salt hotel. Tables, chairs and even beds are made from blocks of salt. Next day we pass many colourfull lagoons inhabitated by pink flamingoes. Majestic mountains show off their pastel colours and highly protected cousins of llamas - vicunas hop everywhere. This dry landscape is shaped mainly by wind which results in beautifull colour patterns. Up here it is very hot in day and freezing at night. The second night spent in simple but tidy barracks near red coloured Laguna Colorado is pretty cold and wakeup call at 4:20 am does not make anyone very happy. By 6am we arrive to 38C hot springs but the air is still at freezing point. It is tempting to jump in but what about to get out? Only few are keen to dip for 20min before breakfest. We decline. For next few hours we visit Laguna Verde and steam gaysiers on the way to Chillian border which we reach by mid-day.
Appart from few initial hickups we had excellent time in Bolivia. This country offers beautifull colours in altiplano mountains, dense green hills around La Paz and enjoyable music in cities.
