Travel Film Scholarship - Rio 2013 - Shriya & Eeshit

DAY TEN - THE LAPA STEPS

humsafar — Sat, 27 Jul 2013 05:05:00 GMT

As winners of the 2012 Travel Film Scholarship, we went on a 10-day assignment to Rio de Janeiro to film the local culture and the Carnaval festivities. Check out what we got up to in Rio...

Want to watch more of our Brazilian adventures?

Carnaval Part 1
Carnaval Part 2

One of the few things that surprise you in Rio, are its diverse neighbourhoods. There is so much more to the city other than its beach life. We set out to Lapa, the art and cultural hub of Rio. They say that in Lapa, the night is the beginning of life. But since we have other plans tonight we decide to explore it by day.

Lapa has a unique, bohemian vibe to it and seems to be the gathering place for Rio’s artists. It boasts of unpretentious vintage shops, cafes and bursts of colour and graffiti in every corner. We were warned to be careful as lapa is also a hotspot for mugging. It is the first time that I actually felt unsafe in Rio. We were stopped a couple of times and told to keep our equipment inside.

Suddenly out of nowhere, we chanced upon the most magical site , The Escadaria selaron or the lapa steps. The steps are entirely covered in mosaic tiles . I was surprised to see tiles with Indian gods right at the beginning. This was designed by the Chilean artist Selaron in 1990 who collected tiles from across the word and wanted to keep reinventing this space. I was hoping to meet the artist, but I was told that he had just passed away a few months ago .There are so many beautiful, intricate tiles to see. From historical landmarks to cartoons like the simpsons, to famous paintings ,every iconic image from different cultures and countries was present . My favourite part was the Brazilian mosaic flag made right on top of the steps. The steps make you walk down them with a different elegance and have this magical aura around them.

Eeshit and I were really excited to do a story around the Lapa steps . Since the police is usually stationed there considering it is now a popular tourist spot, we didn’t think it was a big risk.

Eeshit and I also got our picture clicked from an old camera.

If you feel like abandoning the beach for a day and looking for an authentic Rio experience, Lapa is a great neighbourhood to explore. Understatedly calm by day, but wild and vibrant at night.

Had some cold acai juice on the way back. Today we had to say our bye’s to Chris and Brian who left for Australia . It really felt like the 4 of us were on holiday and not on assignment ! It was great that we all shared a good rapport and we learnt so much teaming up with them , sharing our travel experiences.

We spend the evening on Ipanema beach to catch the gorgeous sunset at Aproador .. In recent times, Ipanema has over taken Copacabana in popularily with its chic charm , vibrant crowd , crystal clear water and a view to die for. A beach that even dogs love to swim in! We applauded the gorgeous sun set, that left a beautiful hue in the air.It was also my applause to Rio for giving us such heart warming experiences

Want to watch more of our Brazilian adventures?

Carnaval Part 1
Carnaval Part 2

DAY NINE - CHRIST THE REDEEMER

humsafar — Sat, 27 Jul 2013 05:00:00 GMT

We were lucky to get great weather today and it’s the perfect opportunity to visit not just the most recognized icon of Rio but of the world. Cristo Redentor,( Christ the Redeemer) standing tall on Corcovado mountain. It is better early in the morning to avoid the long queues for the train ride. The little train ride is more than just a journey to the top but your way through the lush greenery of the Tiju National park, the largest forest within a city in the word. ( If you sit backwards, the view is better.) It is such a refreshing change from the heat of the city.

No matter where I have been in Rio, I have always kept a look out to see if I can spot the Christ redeemer statue which looks like a cute tiny idol from afar-unattainable and Unreachable. But today, all of that changed when we stood below this enormous Christ considered the largest art deco statue in the world, standing tall embracing this beautiful city. Standing there under this massive sculptor is just overwhelming . You also get to enjoy a panoramic view of Rio. You can almost see the whole city from up there. You are going to be tempted to keep taking pictures but you just need to stop at some point to just take a deep breath and enjoy the view. You can also see sugar loaf mountain from there, which is our next stop.

Pao de Acucar or Sugar loaf mountain is another must see in Rio. There is cable ride taking you on top of the mountain. The view from the top is absolutely breathtaking and different from the one at Christ. It is a perfect spot for a nice picnic.I had some passion fruit ice cream. The best time to go is during dusk to catch the sunset.

All over Rio, you will see postcards, posters, sand sculptors and curios of The Christ redeemer and Sugar loaf mountain. But nothing matches up to the actual beauty of being there to experience it for yourself.

Since we didn’t find much time to paraglide, Eeshit and I head to the beach where the paragliders land.Known as Pepino (cucumber) Beach in Sao Conrado , where the sea swells amidts the beautiful landscape of mountains. I could finally wear my bikini and have my moment on the beach without having to film anything. It was beautiful watching paragliders hover above us. I will be back in Rio just to be able to paraglide above the ocean and the mountains. My favourite beach in Rio so far!

It was our last night with Chris and Brian. Clarisse took us to Pedro do Sal .This historical venue is an integral part of the story of Samba where some of the greatest Sambistas have played. It is considered as the birthplace of some of the earliest carnival parades. Musicians and samba enthusiasts from all over Rio flock to this place after work at night. People surround the musicians with their drinks and turn the place into a dance floor. It gets very crowded after a point and difficult to move around with tumbling revellers and spilt beer. Make sure to check the weather before you go as performances get cancelled if it rains. I loved the atmosphere at Pedro do sal, it’s casual, relaxed and a quintessential carioca experience. I feel such a connect to the Brazilian culture by being part of it. It is a rhythm that you catch upto .

Photos: RIO -FEB 2013 MORE

humsafar — Sat, 27 Jul 2013 04:52:00 GMT

DAY EIGHT - WWOOF FARM

humsafar — Sat, 27 Jul 2013 04:51:00 GMT

Today, we got away from the city to visit a WWOOF Farm (Worldwide Opportunites on Organic Farms) in El Nagual, a couple of hours away from Rio. After 2 hours of miscommunication with our non English speaking driver, we were finally picked up in a mini car that looked like it would collapse after every 2 km.

The concept of WWOOFing as they call it was new to me. When we got there after a tiresome yet beautiful ride, Mariana and Eraldo, the couple who run the farm for the last 30 years welcomed us.

Since this was going to be an offbeat experience for Chris and I, we decided to switch partners to make it more interesting. Since I have never worked on a farm before, Brian and I decided to film my first experience learning the basics of organic farming, and, Chris and Eeshit interacted with healing and alternative medicine practitioners.

There was a beautiful waterfall right next to the farm, which we all immediately jumped into. It was very refreshing and much needed after days of sweating it out during the carnival.

One day is not enough to have a WWOOFing experience and depending on what you and your host decide, you need to spend a few weeks to really not only experience an alternate way of living but also positively contribute to the environment. For us, it was like a teaser of what it means to be a WWOOFer. All our meals were made of things grown on the farm and cooked by Eraldo and Mariana themselves with assistance from the volunteers . Since we were treated like guests we were given the food even though we hadn’t contributed to growing/cooking it. But we did clean our own plates. I’m not sure if I can survive on an organic farm for more than a week. You really need to have a different mindset when going to a WWOOF farm, but once you cultivate that state of mind, it definitely turns out to be a quite an enriching experience.

In the evening, Brian and I were taken for a beautiful short trek in the adjoining national park where we got to sit under a waterfall with the cold, gushing water on our backs . It was wonderful. Throughout our stay I got to interact with a lot of volunteers and it was interesting to know what brought them all the way to this remote part of Brazil, away from the carnival. Each one at the farm seemed to be on their own spiritual quest.

Spending the night in the cottage was difficult for me after hearing that a huge cockroach crawled on Eeshit’s neck while he was shooting. But Chris lightened the entire mood by narrating his hilarious first hand experience trying to comprehend the concept of healing. And with a big blanket over my head, I was asleep in no time.

After breakfast in the morning, we started our journey back to the bustling Rio, away from all the peace and tranquility we experienced at the farm. One day of much needed detox, and we were ready to party again.

DAY SEVEN - BEACH, THE CARIOCA WAY

humsafar — Sat, 27 Jul 2013 04:45:00 GMT

As winners of the 2012 Travel Film Scholarship, we went on a 10-day assignment to Rio de Janeiro to film the local culture and the Carnaval festivities. Check out what we got up to in Rio...

Every beach in Rio has a different personality. We met up with Renata who suggested we take a short walk from Copacabana, to spend the afternoon on Leme .

I’ve been starving, so we first head out to try some authentic Brazilian food. Brazilian’s have a churrasco style of barbecuing so you’d find tons of Churrascaria restaurants that you must visit. However today, I tried something different. A delicious prawn dish with farofa on the side. Farofa is a must in almost every Brazilian meal .It is served alongside the main course and can either be sprinkled on your food or eaten as an accompaniment. It is prepared with Manioc, a shrub native to South America. I had never heard of it before. It is known by different names such as mandoja, cassava etc and is a staple part of the Brazilian diet which is cooked in every possible form.

Farofa was probably the only thing in the Brazilian cuisine that Eeshit could eat as a vegetarian. I tried a different version of the caipirinha today with Kiwi and Cinammon. Divine.

The beach is calling out to me after such a soul satisfying lunch.

The beach culture is a strong part of the Rio’s lifestyle. Leme Beach offers a magnificent view of Sugar Loaf mountain and the Copacabana. The beach is not as crowded and seems ideal to spend a day with your family.

Renata is joined by her friends who show us how to enjoy the Beach, Carioca style.

A typical carioca thing would include eating Biscotti Globo, a popular local Brazilian wafer and drink matte, a refreshing cold tea on the beach. The wafer doesn’t have any particular taste. It’s just crunchy - but the Matte is really refreshing and ideal for the hot weather.

Renata also mentions, that as a good Carioca, you need to have your swim suit on at all times even when you are at work! You never know when you a can take a break for a quick dip in the ocean.

I loved the colourful sarongs laid out all over the beach.Eeshit and I spend the afternoon filming this Carioca beach experience. Every day in Rio seems like an ideal beach day.

We spend our evening exploring the local handicraft stalls. I stop by at a music store called Bossa Nova to buy some Brazilian music that will now be a permanent part of my playlist.

As we are walking back to our apartment, we see another bloco parade passing by which also has dogs in costumes and flower garlands. I see an old woman in a wheel chair with a feather in her head enjoying the parade. Her happy face makes me smile and fills my heart with love and gratitude for being able to have this experience.

We spend the evening walking on the beautiful avenue watching dogs on shiny leashes wearing shoes fancier than mine.

Want to watch more of our Brazilian adventures?

The Carioca Way
Walking the Lapa Steps
Carnaval Part 1
Carnaval Part 2

DAY SIX - THE GREATEST SHOW ON EARTH

humsafar — Sat, 27 Jul 2013 04:02:00 GMT

As winners of the 2012 Travel Film Scholarship, we went on a 10-day assignment to Rio de Janeiro to film the Carnaval festivities. Check out what we got up to in Rio...

And so our first day of Carnaval in Rio begins...

Watch our video of Carnival Part 1

Watch our video of Carnival Part 2

Our previous days in Rio have been so jam packed, that we decide to take it easy this morning. Some fresh juice and a good breakfast. Eeshit who is a vegetarian has been practically living on Pao Queijo - Bread and Cheese. And ofcourse the occasional Subway. I on the other hand,have enjoyed trying different dishes.We head to Leblon for a nice lunch with Chris, Brian and Carolina from Air B’n B. Unlike most of the other days that we have been here, today isn’t too hot or too gloomy. It’s ujst perfect to be on the stands at the Sambadromo for one of the most exciting nights of our lives where Eeshit and I will be joining more than 85 thousand people to cheer for the parading Samba schools.

This is the heart of Brazil. Everything that the Brazilians truly love comes together in this parade - Samba, the costumes,the gorgeous people and a celebration of Brazilian culture. What started off as carnival celebrations on the streets is now this extravaganza where the best samba schools parade down this 700 m avenue for the people of Brazil. The parade takes place over 3 days with different Samba schools competing in different groups.

We are here on Day 2 where some of the popular samba schools like Mangueira, Beija Flour, Villa Isabel will be competing. Each Samba school parades for 90 minutes with a singer narrating the story and dancers performing based on the theme that they have chosen.

We get in there early to avoid traffic and grab some dinner to fill our stomachs to last the night.

After the traditional King Momo opening ceremony, the parade began. The energy cannot be described.I was stunned for each of those 90 minutes, awe struck by the attention to detail in every float, every costume and the sheer passion of every performer. The floats are gigantic and works of art. Fire breathing Dragons, galloping Horses, Robots, rotating castles.There was an occasional accident or two with fire breaking out in one of the floats but it was all handled very well.

It was interesting to know that each Samba school is associated to a particular favela or neighbourhood in rio and all the efforts behind the costumes and the floats are done by the passionate volunteers of all ages for whom contributing to this parade, is a matter of immense pride. It is unbelievable to see the hardwork that goes into putting all these varied elements together.

Since we were seated where the parade ends, we got a better view of the gorgeous floats and the dancers who by the end of their 90 minutes,were bearing the brunt of their massive heals. This is a side that I did not expect to see. Ambulances were prepared o ferry the dancers who had fallen sick or who might need urgent medical attention . There are massive cranes to lift up people who are right on top of the floats.The behind the scene coordination and activity is absolutely commendable.

The samba schools represent the community spirit of the neighbourhood that they come from. They bring in such a strong sense of belonging and have a huge impact on the people. I was overwhelmed by this spectacular show of human spirit. Preparations for the carnival span over many months with thousands of people joining rehearsals and working towards the floats, costumes and other elements.

Every theme that is picked by the competing samba schools resonates with the heart of the people. Right now there is nobody as happy as these guys right here. This energy is everything that they truly live for. I felt so blessed to be witness to this extravaganza. I realize now why it is on every travellers bucket list.

The faces of the dancers are beaming with joy. I can only try to imagine how they must be feeling. It has been an overwhelming night for us. To the world, this is the greatest show on earth, but to the Brazilians, it is a mark of their identity and human spirit. For the people, by the people, about the people.

We leave around 330 am. As we are heading out, we see a lot of floats that are being dismantled. It really breaks my heart to know that after months of preparation , these floats have to be torn down to bits. I pick up a feather that I find from one of the floats as a memory of the hardwork, passion and unbelievable creativity that I was fortunate enough to be witness too.

As we were walking out of the premise, we saw a man randomly dancing alone with music blasting from his car speakers .

Even after we got home and went to bed, I could still see the glittering visuals and feel every beat of the Sambadromo in my heart.

- Shriya Pilgaonkar & Eeshit Narain

Watch our video of Carnival Part 1

Watch our video of Carnival Part 2

DAY FIVE - BOITATA BLOCO & BEACH PARTY

humsafar — Sat, 27 Jul 2013 03:53:00 GMT

As winners of the 2012 Travel Film Scholarship, we went on a 10-day assignment to Rio de Janeiro to film the Carnaval festivities. Check out what we got up to in Rio...

Today, we went to one of the most popular Bloco’s in Rio, Boitata. Buying a costume on the days of the carnival is next to impossible so I settled for a pinky shiny hat that I bought from a stall.

Unlike the parade at Santa Teresa, the vibe of this bloco is more like a rock concert with famous Brazilian musicians playing on the stage. Even within blocos, there is so much variety. No bloco experience is the same. The costumes that I got to see in this bloco were even more fabulous. I looked like a complete creep staring at everybodys costumes in awe.

I felt much more ready to go and have more fun this time around. We went right up ahead close to the stage. Eeshit who confidently flashed his World Nomads tag, got to go right on top of the stage to film. He told me that being on the stage gave him a real picture of the enormity of this bloco where the sea of people had flooded every alley.

Watch our video of Carnival Part 2

While Eeshit and Brian were away filming, Chris’s phone got stolen. Eventhough I was standing right next to him, It was impossible to figure out who did it. It was almost like our trip was incomplete without something getting stolen. But on the bright side , Brian got a good shot of Chris looked extremely cute as the sad, grumpy man, surrounded by happy, drunk people.

In the evening, we caught up with Gabriel, Filipe and Paula on Copacabana. Gabriel had come dressed as Bam Bam. We planned to go for another bloco but I just felt like spending the evening on the beach. And we did exactly that. It was wonderful getting to know my new Brazilian friends. After some caipirinhas, we all went mad and did some crazy things. They shared their thoughts about their culture and what the spirit of Carnaval really means to them. I appreciate the fact that irrespective of their age, Brazilians in generaly are so well versed with their history and speak of it with such pride.

Paula and I decided to exchange some dance moves. I taught her some Bollywood dance moves and she did Samba for me on the beach. Paula who makes her costumes every year, gifted me a beautiful feather hair clip. Filipe also had so much to share about his love for Samba. He said that for him, the sound of the drum is like a heartbeat. These guys don’t just love their music, they live their music.

Some people started jamming at our beach shacks which turned into an impromptu samba party. I had never really danced like this without inhabititon. You simply can’t resist the music. Plus, I had one too many Caipirinhas. Brazil has that kind of effect on you, that would even draw an introverted person like Eeshit out of his shell. The energy of the people opens you up in so many ways. Looking at me enjoy the music and having fun doing my own version of Samba, convinced Gabriel that I had some brazilain blood in me. This evening was made truly special by my new friends. It seemed like we all had known each other for a long time.

They wrote in my diary ,“Eu Sou Brasiliero, com muito orgulho com muito amor”

"I am Brazilian with so much pride, so much love”.

- Shriya Pilgaonkar & Eeshit Narain

Watch our video of Carnival Part 1

Watch our video of Carnival Part 2

DAY FOUR - SANTA TERESA AND FOOTBALL MATCH

humsafar — Sat, 27 Jul 2013 03:41:00 GMT

I am up at 5 45 am, Not to catch the golden pink sunrise on Copa, but to attend my first official bloco.I have my morning face on and look far from ready to Samba, but carnaval is here, and I am dying to see how the city is beginning its celebrations.

This popular bloco, called Ceu ne Terra is in the beautiful neighbourhood ,Santa Teresa. Located in a hilly region , this district of Rio de Janeiro has an old world charm, with its winding cobblestone roads and gorgeous views of the city and Guanabara Bay . This place also had Rio’s only tramway which unfortunately wasn’t functional when we went.But it is generally a great area to explore on foot .

We don’t know where this bloco is going to start from but we decide to follow the men with pink wigs . From the looks of it, I can’t tell whether a lot of these people are heading to a party or are just returning from one. Probably both. It begins this early in the morning in a bid to not get over crowded.But even that isn’t a good enough reason to divert the large crowds .

With 500 blocos around Rio, it could be confusing to decide which ones to go to but I think, the ones that have a history and story behind them are the most interesting, offering a unique cultural experience.

We follow the music and eventually find ourselves in what seems like OZ land. I feel like I have suddenly been transported to some magical world! People are dressed up as everything that I can and can’t think off. Everybody is dressed in a unique manner and I hardly spot people in the same costume. I am generally stunned for a few minutes . I feel boring with my shorts and tshirt. Had I known how serious these guys are about making their costumes, I would have probably come dressed as Alice and wonderland or something. Maybe Dorothy since I used the Wizard of OZ analogy.

The band had already started playing.There were instruments that I had never seen before. It is their love for music that brings people to participate in these different bands that play in the various blocos . You immediately tend to immerse yourself in the song and dance. This bloco is like a parade which will move around the neighbourhood for a couple of hours.The crowd is a little overwhelming at first and there is literally no space to move. Eeshit and I manage to sneak our way in the middle of the parade where the band is playing. The general discomfort of being pushed around is dwarfed by the incredible energy of the music and the happy faces around me. I can’t tell who is a local and who is a Gringo as they call tourists here in Brazil .

I go into my profound traveller space again as I see these happy faces around me. The carnival is so much about freeing your spirit and being exactly who you are or who you want to be. There are no pretences .

I dont understand Portuguese so I don’t know what the songs mean, but they stay with you and sound amazing.

5 things you need to know for your first bloco experience-

1)Don’t carry any bags . Just enough money to buy yourself drinks

2)Never. Never wear slippers. Only closed shoes

3)Plan your blocos in advance. Try the traditional blocos and the ones with a twist like Bloco do Sargento Pimenta (Sergant pepper) that play beatles songs in Samba style.

4)Try to get as close to the band. It’s much more fun.

5)It’s easy to get carried away and seems impossible to leave a bloco once you are there, but if you want to make the most of the different blocos, you need to conserve your energy.

A man in a pink tutu sprays my face with glitter . Anybody who is shy and socially awkward needs to visit Brazil . They’ll loosen up in a day. Brazil does that to you. The vibe is contagious.

11 am and I am exhausted. But my first bloco experience has been incredible. The sheer enthusiasm of the people who come in such elaborate costumes is inspiring. You can see the planning and passion with which every costume has been designed.

After a 2 hour nap , we headed to a local football game that we had tikcets to. Even amidst carnaval , people had come to watch the game between the local favourites Vasco and Fluminense.

It was extremely hot today but a Caipirinha saved me. We bought whistles to cheer for Vasco since we were in that stand.

The stadium was only 70 % full which is considered to be sold out. Apparently, all tickets in the statium are not issued as an entire stadium filled with aggressive fans runs the risk of going out of control. I believe that after being witness to the entertaining responses of the crowd to the game.Beating drums, flags being flown and slogans being shouted that echo in the grand stadium.Something that you must experience !

DAY THREE - FEATHERS, TAILS, AND CARNIVAL EVE

humsafar — Sat, 27 Jul 2013 03:30:00 GMT

The transportation of a city says a lot about the city itself and I find the metro in Rio to be quite tourist friendly. Apparently, not so much for the locals. I am already getting glimpses of people entering the metro as Hanna Barbara characters . I try not to stare. I gather that when it becomes normal to do your grocery shopping with feathers on your head and tails jutting out, it just means one thing-Carnaval is here ! I cannot wait to see how the city is going to transform itself for the next 5 days.

Since Carnaval will officially begin tomorrow and we are pretty clueless about what’s in store, we met up with Clarisse . Clarisse, is a Carioca or a local from Rio. I have heard this term quite often in the past 2 days, and I am curious to know what it really means to be a carioca. Apart from, the mandatory condition of being born in Rio, the stereotypical carioca comes across as someone whose life is centred around the beach and who loves partying (that pretty much defines a lot of us) But I am sure there is more to it than that definition. Talking to her gives me a sense, that Brazilians have a lot of pride for their culture and genuinely want to share their cultural experience with you.

It was incredible talking to Clarisse and trying to understand more about this culture of celebration. Carnaval is not just this massive celebration before lent but it holds a different meaning for every individual. My notion of carnaval changed when I met Clarisse. I thought the highlight was the Parade at the sambadrome but she tells us that the heart of the Carnaval lies in it’s blocos.

Blocos are street parties that happen all around Rio. About 500 Blocos attract more than 6 million people on the streets. That sounds scary and impossible to manage. We figure that if we really want to experience a bloco we need to plan our schedule well in advance. There are bloco maps available which mark the date and time of the different blocos, happening all over the city. Party planning at its best.

Some blocos begin the night before and we decide to get a glimpse of what a Brazilian street party is actually like.

As we approach this particular street party that Clarisse takes us to, I realize that it’s happening right in the middle of a children play ground with kids playing on swings and the others drinking and dancing around. There is a band playing traditional songs that everyone seems to know the words to. People are not necessarily dancing as much as singing along and being part of this crazy energy. It’s informal and fun but apparently not half as colourful and lively as bloco parties are on the days of the Carnaval. Since Carnaval begins tomorrow, the plan is to attend an early morning street party. I don’t know how early is early but I am ready for it. Can’t wait to experience the real deal!

Watch our video of Carnival Part I

DAY TWO - THE MAGIC OF ROCINHA

humsafar — Sat, 27 Jul 2013 03:16:00 GMT

This morning, we took the mini bus with Pedro and Marianne to visit Rocinha,Rio’s largest favela which has emerged as one of the popular tourist destinations inspite of being well known for its drug related violence in the past.

Exploring the favela with someone actually living there is a completely different experience. Marianne first took us for a gastronomical tour to show us what goes into making the national dish of Brazil, Feijoda. A Stew with beans, beef and pork. When I found out that Pig’s ears also went into the dish, I reconsidered trying it.

Most of Rio’s favelas have been built on the hills surrounding the city as a result of which the roads are narrow and steep which make it difficult to walk .

The best way to get around is taking the local favela transport, a motor taxi . It’s incredible riding on these motor taxis which is basically a bike ride on the steep winding roads. The view just keeps getting more stunning as you go right to the top. Eeshit was so engrossed taking some fabulous shots from the back seat, that he lost his way and had us all worried but he found us soon enough.

Exploring Rocinha with Pedro who lived there was a different experience. I got a better understanding of the way of life there. It was interesting to see the eclectic mix of people living here,working in different fields, from different backgrounds who had all adapted to this challenging way of life. The energy around is different from the other parts of the city. There is this community spirit which ties everyone together inspite of their race. The cultural diversity within the stark polarity of Rio’s classes is instantly evident when you visit a Favela . The Favelas also have their own distinct style of music called Funk which was popularized in 1980’s in these neighborhoods. It was considered a medium for the poor people living in the favelas to express themselves and discuss topics like poverty , social injustice, violence etc.

On our way, we met a man who offered to show us his house which supposedly had a fantastic view. And was he right ! The colourful stacked houses on the hill looked gorgeous against the backdrop of the ocean. A breathtaking view that I would pay to see. An organized chaos. The guy loved Chris so much that he gifted him a jersey of his favoruite local football team. He then went onto proclaim that his whistle was one of the loudest we would have ever heard. We took up the challenge and tried to whistle our loudest but nothing was even as close to the shrill from his whistle. Very random but very entertaining.

In Rocinha, people have created a world of their own. It’s vibrant, alive and personally did not seem the least bit intimidating since we had Pedro and Marianne with us. The place is largely self sufficient with everything you need under the sun available. It’s safe to explore favelas if you have someone showing you around. It’s best if you go with a local. But the sense of feeling unsafe as a tourist is generally lurking around especially when you are carrying filming equipment.

I seem to be passing of as Brazilian, which makes me happy :)

It’s extremely humid today . During lunch, I try a Caipirinha, the national drink of Brazil made with cachaca. Every Brazilian knows how to make one. I don’t know if it was the weather or the general excitement, but I was buzzed after 2 drinks and I decided to stop.

After lunch, Marianne decides to give me a Samba lesson in the middle of the road. I can hear some music blasting in the distance so that helps us. Her lesson is pretty simple. If you don’t like cockroaches, you’ll pick up sooner.

Step 1- Kill the cockroach

Step 2- Twist your hip (with the get away bitch swag, in Marriane’s words)

To everyone’s surprise, I had my black heels tucked inside my backpack.

When you are in Rio during carnival, you need to be mentally prepared to dance at any given point. And you never do samba in Flip flops . Pedro also showed me some of his Funk moves which was basically shaking your booty, a lot. I loved it!

This impromptu Samba lesson with Pedro and Marianna made me realize that Brazilians seem to have this natural rhythm in them. It’s great that here, you are not stared at weirdly if you are dancing on the streets. It seems like the most natural thing to do especially when Carnaval is right around the corner.

We spend the rest of the evening on the Copacabana reviewing our first day of filming and just soaking in all that we had experienced!

DAY ONE IVHQ - NOVA CHANCE PROJECT

humsafar — Sat, 27 Jul 2013 03:09:00 GMT

After a long flight and a snow landing in Paris, we finally landed in Rio de janeiro. My first time stepping on the South American Soil. The drive from the airport to the city was enough for me to realize that Rio is every bit of the glamorous, exotic and beautiful destination that it is made out to be. The air felt familiar. It doesn’t seem like I was in a foreign land.

We settled into our gorgeous air bnb studio apartment right next to sequira campos station and 2 minutes away from Copacabana. Extremely well located. I felt like I was in a movie.

After settling in and having some nice coconut water (coco) on Copacabana, We head to the IVHQ( International Volunteers Head Quarters) hostel where we met Connie who is handling the IVHQ projects in Rio. As part of IVHQ, Volunteers from across the world take up short term developmental projects in different fields.

She took us to a project in the favela community of Barriera do Vasco where some volunteers were working on re-building homes in the favela. This particular favela is one of the few that is yet to be pacified in Rio. Over the last few years, the favelas in Rio have been in the process of pacification which basically involves cleaning up and ridding the slums of a deep-rooted crime culture and the influence of drug gangs. Easier said than done. In simple words, the guns have been shifted from the gangs to the hands of the UPP ( Pacification Police Units. )

However, this particular one that we were at wasn’t entirely pacified . We entered the favela with Fabio, a dutch living in Brazil who was also a resident of this favela.

I am not a traveller lured by poverty tourism . But I was intrigued to see how different the favelas are from the slums in Mumbai . Coming from Mumbai, the challenges and the environment of living in a slum wasn’t unfamiliar to me. However, it was my first experience visiting a slum area of a foreign country. What fascinated me the most was that in Rio, favela tourism is a full blown activity. The favela culture is unique in itself. From the structure of the homes, to the lifestyle of the communities, the energy in these favelas is rather unique. My impression of the favelas was of this dingy, scary areas with drug dealings hotspots at every nook and corner. Eventhough that might still happen in some pockets, there is a homely feeling that you get seeing families living together creating a life of their own within those dark alleys.

Walking through the Favela was like going through a dark maze . At some points, we were told to keep our phones/cameras inside as they were common areas for drug dealings . We found no threatening situation as such other than a drunk man who had been following us from the start of our tour who kept insisting that we see his house. I wasn’t feeling very adventurous about that idea but our guide seemed to have it all under control ,so we agreed. The drunk man’s house with a tiny door, opened to a posh room with a massive plasma Televsion. Very well maintained. It was interesting to know from Fabio that , inspite of being able to afford a better space, a lot of the people continue to live in the Favelas for various reasons one of them being , the community bond that they experience living here as compared to the isolation and expense of living in the city.

Later,we had lunch at a Kilo restaurant . In Brazil, Kilo restaurants are very popular which is basically like a buffet sustem where you pay by the kilo.

Next we headed to visit the Nova Chance Project . It was started by Elly, who having grown up in a favela himself, experienced its challenges and returned after his higher studies to start this project to work for the betterment of the people living in the favela .

He started a football training club for the kids in the favela as a means to encourage them to go to school . Here,the over all development of the child and their families is taken care of where educational and medical facilties are also provided. It was wonderful to interact with the passionate team behind this project.We explored the facility and watched the children play football like pros.

After months of discussion and skype calls,we finally caught up with the people whom we owed this wonderful opportunity to-Chris from World nomads and our mentor Brian who had just flown down from Australia ( we missed you Alicia !) . The four of us hit it off instantly. Inspite of a planned itinery, we were encouraged to be flexible and explore our own stories and live out our own unique experience. It was going to be an interesting process shooting along side Chris and Brian who would have a different approach to the same subject. We discussed the challenges of setting out to film in a place which isn’t known to be particularly safe and where language is a major barrier. But, that is what makes travel filmmaking all the more exciting. You never know what jumps into your frame …

DAY ZERO - WORLD NOMADS IN RIO

humsafar — Sat, 27 Jul 2013 02:58:00 GMT

Until now, Brazil for me was equal to ( in no particular order) the Amazon, Football, Adriana Lima , Paulo Coehlo, Copacabana, the song-‘ My girl from Ipanema’, the film, City of God, acai berries and ofcourse, the most popular on ‘ The Things to see before you die’ list ,-The Carnival !

As winners of the World Nomad Travel Film scholarship 2013( and much to everyone’s envy ), Eeshit and I are off to Brazil, to capture the energy in the gorgeous city of Rio during Carnival .

This travel video was our ticket to Rio De Janeiro

https://vimeo.com/51399922

I knew this trip would be different from any other. Not because I can finally say “ I’m travelling for work”, but because it’s one of those moments when you truly don’t know what is in store. You don’t have any distant family there to give you instructions( thankfully) or Brazilian friends from school to share their experiences.

I did manage to get in touch with friends of friends of friends in Brazil, who had 3 specific notes of caution for us first time travellers.

1)Nobody understands English.

2) Don’t look expensive!?

3) Don’t wander on the beach at night.

Noted.

Considering that Eeshit and I have set out with our filming equipment, this was going to be an exciting challenge .

Our idea of preparing for our Rio trip was simple- To watch the animated film Rio , at the end of which we both knew that we need to be able to paraglide right under Christ redeemers stretched arm just like those colourful birds did.

While Eeshit is the overly organized , vegetarian travel companion whose eyes sparkle at the sight of subway, I am ( in Eeshits word) “A floating bubble who is always with a checklist and thinks she can see the world in one day”

As world nomads, we all like to believe that each of us explores differently and goes one step further to discover more than what meets the eye. We all crave for that unique experience which makes us feel special and which also makes for wonderful stories when you go back home.

And Eeshit and I are no different. We both travelling. We both love films. And we both are driven by that rush for adventure. In Rio, it’s all going to come together ! Everyone at some point harbours the dream to be a travel host and I am thrilled to have got this opportunity to be one in Brazil !

Rio during the carnival can only mean thing -The experience of a lifetime !

Photos: Rio - Feb 2013

humsafar — Mon, 4 Feb 2013 02:32:00 GMT

My Scholarship entry - Through Local Eyes

humsafar — Mon, 15 Oct 2012 08:39:06 GMT

Team Application:
The Parsi community of Mumbai has been crucial towards shaping the city’s culture and industry. This inspired us to capture the 90 year old Parsi restaurant, Britannia, one of the last few remaining in our city, encapsulating time and heritage. Having grown up in contemporary Mumbai, it gives us a chance to experience the unique charm of old Bombay, one that we feel, must not be missed by any explorer.
We became friends when we part of the GoldmanSachs Global Leaders program back in college. This travel scholarship has now brought us together yet again but this time, as a team of co-filmmakers driven to tell stories of people from diverse societies. Shriya is a theatre actor, classical dancer, as well as an amateur filmmaker having made 3 short documentaries. Eeshit is a cinematography student at Film Institute, Pune. We also have been assisting in our respective fields. Previously, we have collaborated on 2 projects (See vimeo link) and this travel video becomes our 3rd, and hopefully our ticket to Rio!
What interests us is to capture the essence of people and what brings great joy to them. That is exactly what we would love to be mentored for in Rio.