Wanders of Monlam Journey

Gallery: Delhi/Rewelsar/Dharamsala

globalld — Thu, 31 May 2007 00:02:00 GMT

I Like it here!

globalld — Wed, 30 May 2007 23:42:00 GMT

Well I have departed the rainy and damp hill station of Darjeeling. I didn't even buy tea. The journey to Delhi was long, yet eventful. First I took a 31/2 hour shared jeep to the nearest train station in Silliguri. We passed through a town named Kuresong that was filled with lovely rolling hills filled with tea bushes and overlooking a river...This seems to be where most of the tea comes from, sort of like the Napa Valley of Tea. Even saw a sign declaring TAZO IS NOW IN DARJEELING! Hum. The weather was perfect, we sped along and I was immersed in the richness of the region. After a 2 hour wait in a room with no windows, I boarded the super fast Rajdani Express (only 22 hours) with my 2nd class expectations. ( It was definitely "economy class" ) It was pleasant enough, with a few minor irritations thrown in. I wanted to take the train. Wouldn't have properly traveled in India without a few long haul train rides under my belt, right? Well. Not sure why I talked myself into it.There were no other Westerners on the train with me. None. Just me in my single sleeper across from 1 Indian Family. One Dad, One Mom, Another couple and 3 kids. All three loud with that high decibel voice I talk frequently about. Then next to them a Nepali family. Curtain was closed the entire trip, but from the sound of it, must have been 6 people in there.( including another screaming child with no adult interested in suggesting him/her to shut up). I must say, the trip went faster than I expected as uncomfortable as it was. I was only asked where I was from 6 times. Yes, it has begun to get so damn tiring. People are curious and want to know "what is your country"?,"where are you from"?, "Your Motherland is where"? If I say America then I have to also add what city. I then have to say my name and how long I have been in India and of course if I like it here, which I don't, so the conversation usually ends and I am set free until I run into the next curious person in country of millions. Sunrise was gorgeous and calm. I was even treated to a front seat view of the hundreds of Indians taking their morning poo by the track sides. Not sure it would be my first choice, but privacy has little meaning here. I was shocked to discover that it was Summer in Delhi and that I love it there. It is clean, a mixture of new and old, full of incredible history at every step, a spotlessly clean and efficient subway system, coffee shops, book stores, paved roads, a city center and great shopping. Who knew! Even at 102 degrees, I found myself wanting to explore. There is even a "Time Out Delhi" filled with restaurant, bar and Spa reviews. I found the city to be very expensive comparatively, but a great place to begin and end a trip. And I must add, that the up in your face ball-scratching and penis-pulling-through-the-pants that is so common everywhere was also a rare spectacle. I left after 2 days to visit a monk friend of mine in Tso Pema (Indian name is Rewalsar). I got on a bus at 7pm and arrived in Mandi at 8am. I will spare the stories of discomfort, no toilet and incessant staring. (again I was the only westerner, and a lone female at that.) Dropped off on a corner, I carried my bags to the bus depot (in view) and boarded a local bus to my destination. Only foreigner and minimal staring. Yeshe set me up in a guest house with a huge room overlooking the lake and access to a kitchen. It is a powerful place. A small town surrounding a self arisen lake with 3 major monasteries and the population mostly Indian. During my first hours I was head butted by a very large cow (was wearing red), attacked by a dog (owners said it was because I was Ingee(local for English person) AND chased by a monkey... then I fell down some stairs on my way to the tailor that told me I should "start diet". So I am leaving this peaceful jungle after a wonderful 7 days retreat. Will start the diet when I get back.

Happy Birthday to Me

globalld — Thu, 17 May 2007 19:05:00 GMT

Well, I decided to give myself a really good present, Permission to Head west! Well, the time has just flown by and, tick-tock... Can't hide my joy and ear to ear smile with thoughts of getting out of Darjeeling. This place has rubbed me the wrong way and can I blame it just on the fat that it has the worst weather in India? I has rained 90% of the time I have been here. (raining right now in fact, and there is no electricity. Sitting in the computer place with a generator) It is loud. Jeeps blaring their horns continuously, just in case you didn't know they were there. Clinging to the walls as you share narrow roads with large trucks and every imaginable moving vehicle (with diesel fumes filling the available space left between you and them). Packs of dogs barking all night (they sleep during the day). High decibel conversations taking place wherever you are. (Think everyones hearing is impaired due to the magnitude of noise here, so they don't talk, they scream). I am ready for running water (water shortages here in the Hill stations) I am ready to get away from all the steep climbing, the instant coffee, the constant construction, the damp...I have tried to do as many excursions that the 2 days off a week would allow. Last weekend I took a 5 hour shared jeep ride to a small town called Lava. About an hour drive from Kalimpong and home of the Sister Monastery of Pullahari. It was peaceful and quiet with gorgeous views from all sides. See pictures.( I never have described in detail the shared jeep experiences here. Just imagine a jeep, stuffed with 15 people(that's inside only). It is a site to behold. 3 people plus the driver in front. The person sitting closest to the driver has to literally "cuddle" with him, arm around his back, legs spread around the gear stick and no one has any space to move at all. ( I will spare you the stereo blasting stories here, but you can imagine the high quality cassettes they play at full volume)Then, middle seat, there are 4 plus any children that are riding, sitting on various laps, no introduction needed( I had a girl of around 7 sleeping on me and the person next to me last weekend, she was the only comfortable one)..The back seat, which is two small seats facing each other, manages to fit 4, then people sit/squat on the floor and lean up against the seated passengers. Oh, I forgot to mention the men that hang from the back or sit on the roof. It is not unlikely to have over 25 people riding together on the steep and windy roads. So, on Sunday I take my last shared jeep to Silliguri to catch a 24 hour train to Delhi! Classes are not over, in fact there is another month to the program. I would rather spend the next two weeks somewhere I can relax. No, not Delhi! I will go to Rewalsar,home of the sacred lake Tso Pema. Then to Dharmasala for a few days, before I am back to Delhi and off for a 12 hour Bangkok adventure. (Layover from 5:30am until 7:30pm). It is hard to believe that I will have been gone for 6 months. Looking forward to sharing stories over good food and Californian wine!

Rumtek, Ah!

globalld — Fri, 27 Apr 2007 14:12:00 GMT

I am back in rainy Darjeeling after 3 days in Sikkim visiting Rumtek Monastery.

Sikkim is a tiny state (Isolated Buddhist Kingdom until annexed by India in 1975) that lies just south of Tibet and in between Nepal to the West and Bhutan to the East. As the jeep crossed the border from West Bengal and after I had my permits in order, we were off driving through the lush deep valleys toward the hill town of Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim. A sprawling city built along the mountain ridges and much to my delight clean! There are laws against littering as well as several “noise free zones” within the city, I then took another shared jeep out to Rumtek, The seat of the 17^th Gyalwa Karmapa. Two words,

Awe inspiring.

Just inside the main gate, one must present a passport and Sikkim permit to two armed guards. When you finally make it up to the Monastery itself, you are again greeted by Soldiers with machine guns and are asked to walk through a metal detector. A little weird at first and a reminder that the current Karmapa has still not been granted permission by the Indian government to visit Sikkim and assume his seat. The main gompa is magnificent and holds a beautiful throne as well as seats for The heart sons. Just behind it is Karma Shri Nalanda Institute of Buddhist studies where the shedra lasts 9 years with an optional isolated 3 year retreat. Near the top floor is a shrine room with large golden figures of the 16^th Karmapa, Sakyamuni Buddha and Manjushri. As well as a large and ornate seat for the Karmapa. It seems like they expect him there any day and it was wonderful to see that no one seemed discouraged by his absence. Next I visited the Golden stupa, which contains the remains of His Holiness the 16^th Karmapa,. It is amazing and studded with turquoise and coral; surrounded on all sides with statues of the previous 16 Karmapas. Directly behind is a large statue of Dorje Chang, as well as statues of Tilopa, Naropa, Marpa and Milarepa.

Rumtek is high in the clouds and the days were misty and warm…dreamlike. I didn’t want to leave! It was a wonderful trip and now I have a burning desire to see more of Sikkim before I leave here as well as before it becomes touristy. Much of it is off limits to Westerners still.

So, back in Darjeeling and studying hard with a new tutor. The weather has officially gotten to me and I am happy that I will be leaving in 3 weeks, but feel pressure to learn as much as I can! Meanwhile I have been denied my scholarship application for the Translator Program in Seattle in July. I will do a fundraising to try to raise the funds to go, so will be selecting 4 of my photos, and making them available for sale as digital prints ( I WILL SEND OUT AN EMAIL NEXT WEEK WITH DETAILS) I am also taking orders for the most amazing handmade Tibetan incense from Kalimpong. If you or any one you know might be interested in purchasing some photos to help with my studies, please have a look/send a link to the web galleries on this site as well as my “still work in progress” web-site http:// www.awanderingeye.com

I look forward to hearing from you and better yet seeing you soon as I will be back in San Francisco the second week of June.

What I miss most about home

globalld — Wed, 11 Apr 2007 19:11:00 GMT

Well it has taken me some time (a few weeks) to feel settled here in Darjeeling. Now it all seems bearable and at the same time I really don't like it here. The hours without electricity, the rain and cold, the no running water, instant coffee, bathing by bucket and cup, studying by candlelight, rice everyday and the -still can’t get used to-noise of high decibel honking horns and barking dogs. It is hard to not be reminded of the contrast and utter simplicity of life here and to reflect on how I live in the west.. For instance, I was thinking this morning how at home I only like bath towels from Restoration Hardware. Here most locals use old t-shirts or hand me down towels that we wouldn’t even clean our floors with. No one has even heard of Egyptian cotton sheets or Turkish towels. They wouldn’t know the difference between Old Navy and Marc Jacobs. Converse and Camper. The subtleties between Belgium beers, olive oils, heirloom tomatoes. The difference between Starbucks and Peets (well no one has heard of Starbucks here and I think that is a good thing) They know nothing of wine (French,Californian,Italian,Argentinian,Australian,Chilean,German,Spanish,Italian) or good chocolate and never will. I wonder what life would be like for me if I hadn’t had the experience of a feather bed, a bubble bath, a glass of Cain Five in a reidel, eating in any ethnic New York restaurant, sipping a kettle one martini overlooking the Pacific ocean, a washing machine, a food processor, sailing in the Greek islands, Thai food in Thailand, high speed internet, cliff bars, sunrise in the desert, seared Ahi tuna and sashimi, the sound of quiet…Whole Foods. As much as I’ve traveled, I don’t think I really have ever stoped to really appreciate what I constantly take for granted? I realize now how much I really miss home and that I am glad I know the western world and it’s subtleties. My studies continue. Last week I moved to the Intermediate class. Unfortunately my brain still refuses to function and I struggle to find my place. Beginning to study with a new tutor and will stay focused to get over this learning curve. Did I mention that I am sharing the house I live in with a former monk from Gampo abbey (Matthew)? Some of you may know him. His presence keeps me reminded of dilgence and practice and the reasons I am here. I went to a nearby hill station last weekend called Kalimpong. (see all of the 4 photos I took) It was great to get out of town. It was beautiful, warm, lively…But for some reason now, I am stuck with a travel bug that is gnawing away. Things I miss about home First, the given are all my friends and family..Otherwise 1. Peets coffee 2. Endangered Species bat bar (dark chocolate with cocoa nibs) tied with Dagoba dark chocolate with cocoa nibs and chili 3. Evian (you know how much I love Evian) 4. Whole Foods salad bar 5. My vacuum cleaner 6. Mexican Food/ Sashimi (also tied) 7. Toms of Maine/Trader Joe’s 8. Any decent red wine (good stuff too) 9. Battlestar Gallactaca season Three (missed it) 10. A good porter or Stout 11. Whole Foods (really need to make a point here) 12. Jurlique 13. Bathtub (any one with do) 14. Did I forget Kettle one? I must sound like an alcoholic? Reality is that I have drank here 5 times in 3 months. Once was to try a Tibetan fermented millet drink called toongpa (tastes a bit like bad sake). The next, the final party at Pulllahari, where of course after not drinking for two months I got drunk on sangria (that I made) and, well, have a story for some of you. 15. Being in a place without screaming children 16. Western toilets (western bathrooms in general) 17. Washing Machines (Even Laundromats seem alluring from here) 18. Almond Milk/Rice Milk/Soy milk 19. Carb free /oil free/fresh 20. Massages,facials,pedicures..etc.

Gallery: Darjeeling/Sikkim

globalld — Thu, 22 Mar 2007 14:50:00 GMT

Back in Time

globalld — Thu, 22 Mar 2007 14:47:00 GMT

I have arrived in Darjeeling! Much to my delight it is raining hard and freezing cold. This place is much higher up than I thought. It seems like the entire town is built up like a spiral, so you can either walk up a very steep road or stairs up/down the side of a cliff or the other option, down. From most anywhere the views are stunning and as far as the eye can see are hills which are thickly covered with forest, houses or terraced tea gardens. I started school already and there are 6 people in my beginners class. 4 of us Americans, 1 Russian and 1 Taiwanese woman. Everyone is in their 20’s. In the Advanced course there are 3 people. 2 Americans and 1 nun from Singapore. Again we are wrapped in blankets! I have two classes a day. 10am-12pm and 1pm-3pm. I will begin with a tutor as well from 9-10. 5 hours of Tibetan a day (Plus an extra 1 1/2 hour class on Wed nights focusing only on spoken)! Hopefully my brain will be able to handle the overload. It is cold and wet and damp and I have to climb everywhere..Sound familiar? Today I moved into a Tibetan house not far from the school. I have my own room and bathroom, There are huge water problems here so it wasn’t a surprise to hear that I would have no running water. The landlord will bring me a bucket of hot water in the morning for a wash up. Are you ready to come visit? A friend loaned me enough to cover my plane ticket plus expenses for 2 months, after that I will HAVE to come back…Unless of course I end up getting a tax refund! No, I will stay here for 2 months and be back in SF early June. I am very close to Sikkim, so will try to do some touristing over the next few weekends. Another class will start on Saturday Evenings in April, so I will do what I can do before then, It will take a few days, but I think I will settle in nicely, even without running water and a western toilet (oh yeah, I forgot to mention that part). I miss Nepal already and even thought this is India, it isn’t as bad as, say, other parts of India…but it is STILL not Nepal. As I was leaving I was worried about coming back to India since I’ve had such bad experiences. I have not liked India AT ALL. Maybe it’s the men that STARE. And it’s not the same kind of stare you get from someone who is just curious, The stare I am referring to is somehow creepy and intrusive. So here I am in the Taxi, on my way to the airport, deciding to have an open mind and open to receiving a new set of opinions about India, the country I have barely scratched the surface of. I left my hotel in Boudha first to visit the area of Thamel, to have a look at the extra room at Petals salon, where the proposed training studio/beauty school will be. The location is perfect, right around the corner from Java House (well known coffee hang out) and up on the 3rd floor. Tsering (the owner and my potential business partner) and I, designed, dreamed, divided the to-do list and then exchanged emails in hopes that we will see each other very soon. I was off to the airport sending good-bye text messages when the driver spotted my phone. Well for about the entire 30 minute journey to the airport he said ”please trade phone, you take mine, I take yours, same same, please madam”..It was sad and maddening. At the airport, no trolleys allowed, men grabbing my bags, you need porter, your bags weigh 30K only 20K allowed, fee well over $10, me arguing.. Don’t forget Madam, Pay departure tax! It is moments such as those that remembering my studies and the pith instructions of “It is all but a dream” come in handy. Finally high above the clouds, I was hypnotized by miles and miles of massive snow capped Himalayas! On the plane I sat next to a Sikkimese business man (wealthy?) who made my protection his priority and he got me AND my bags all the way to the Jeep stand in Siliguri, West Bengal. It even made the immigration check points bearable as he stood by my side. Now, here is a perfect example of my experiences with Nepal vs/ India. As I was leaving Nepal the men at Immigration asked me why I was leaving, when I would be back, if I liked Nepal etc.. When I got across the border and walked in the door of the India Immigration checkpoint, the man behind the desk refused to look me in the eye, said nothing and just tossed the arrival card across the desk. I stood there repeating my mantra “ I hate India”. At the Jeep stand, it was hot, the air was thin and I wanted to just get going..Jeeps don’t leave unless there are a minimum of 7 people. I wanted to sit in the front, they kept insisting that there would be 3 people up there..I don’t know how it would be possible. The front seat barely big enough for 2 mini Indian men plus the driver...It was one of those moments again, so after waiting 40 minutes, I decided to buy the other two seats. We were off. We barely made it out of town when we picked up an older woman who clearly did not want to be smushed in the back..I offered her the front seat with me. The two of us smashed together. Now, when the driver asks her to pay, the story really gets going! I intervened just once and told them both that I had bought 3 seats, I am giving one of them to her. She doesn’t need to pay. She was fierce and the argument went on and on and on endlessly. The only English repeated over and over was “why should I?” Why is it that I have these experiences that strengthen my already bad opinions of India and the men that are constantly trying to cheat you? (found out later that one must only pay for two seats in the front). The final opportunity to cheat me that night was done by the little porter man I hired to carry my stuff up the very steep hill after 3 1/2 hours stuffed in a jeep. I was by this time not in the mood to do anything but pay gracefully. What is it about India that people fall in love with?? I cannot see it. This place is filthy, open sewers (that gush when it rains), dust that gets onto and into everything including your lungs, fumes of all kinds (cars,jeeps,busses, motorcycles,open sewers,beggars,gypsies,moldy rooms, any alley or pile of trash and the non western toilets), full of noise pollution (honking cars,jeeps,busses motorcycles..stray dogs barking all through the night), the weather is bad (too hot or too cold), the water undrinkable, the travel extremely difficult (crowds,pushy people trying to sell you anything but what you need, beggars asking for money,no toilets, those fumes and that dust and that all pervasive noise), And lastly there are plenty of people here that don’t use toilets at all and aren’t shy (Au naturel), so there is another wonderful sight to behold while traveling here. This country is at bottom of my list, and if you really love it here please do tell… Hopefully high up in these cold, damp and magical hills I can study in peace and the bad men won’t find me… (to be continued)

As I leave Nepal

globalld — Fri, 16 Mar 2007 16:56:00 GMT

Last Week at Pullahari. Is this really the end? Bitter cold mornings, hundreds of stairs to climb, aching knees, no electricity, no hot water, overcooked nepali versions of western food with carbohydrates being the only thing on the menu, misty mountains, mind expanding teachings, dharma debates, slow internet connection, Tibetan studies, hand washing, irritating policies, Phone line working, phone line not working, taxi is coming, taxi never shows up, no hot water. Well, it was all a dream. I am living now in Boudha in a guest house with no hot water (please have extra hot showers for me)I have finally recovered from the final party, which I coordinated. As per usual, for those of you that know me well, I was horribly hung-over, and since I hadn’t had a drink since Christmas it happened quick! The party was a great ending to the program. Now in town,I am still adjusting to the noise and activity of a city as opposed to the safe refuge of a Monastery..Takes some getting used to and I didn’t realize how noise sensitive I had become. The weather is still uncanny for this time of year..Raining and still cold and did I mention I am longing for hot water, no.. just ONE hot shower!! My plans have changed AGAIN. I am leaving Nepal on Sunday and heading to Darjeeling to attend the Manjushree Institute of Tibetan Language. One of my teachers, Khenpo Tsultrim Gyampso Rinpoche told me to continue my study of Tibetan ..So I will skip the retreat and go into another intensive program, staying in Darjeeling hopefully until the beginning if June sometime. If you would like to contribute to my study fund please let me know! My plans are always shifting and changing, but for the most part I would like to be back in San Francisco in June, work for a few weeks and then head up to Vancouver Island to attend Nitartha. Still waiting on word of my scholarship. So obviously my cell phone won’t be working in India..but I will get a new number and let you know how to contact me. What else? I have been doing some teaching in a hair salon here. Not much, just basic color chemistry and haircutting techniques. She wants me to move here to open up a beauty school/training center. I like that idea! So many options and possibilities..but for now I am staying focused on my Tibetan studies. For those of you that are involved with Shambhala, I went yesterday to the Monastery of Namkha Drimed Rabjam Rinpoche (Father of Semo Sayang and wife of the Sakyong) It is a truly spectacular setting in Pharping, with the most unusual shrine rooms. Please look at photos. Also in photos are KTGR’s visit to Pullahari. So that’s that for now, I do hope to hear from you and about your lives..

Gallery: Pharping and KTGR visit

globalld — Fri, 16 Mar 2007 16:40:00 GMT

Happy Losar

globalld — Fri, 23 Feb 2007 23:28:00 GMT

Happy Losar! Or as the Tibetans would say TASHI LOSAR. It was an eventful few weeks here at Pullahari as the monks prepared for the new year with practice and Pujas. The most ceremonial was the Mahakala puja and finale fire, which I have included many photos from. I was ready to leave for a few days holiday. My mind fried and my desirous self was longing for better food and different scenery.

I made plans to go stay at Osel Ling, the monastery of Tsoknyi Rinpoche and the teacher I have great aspiration to study with. Unfortunately, his monastery is high on a hill that is a 45 minute uphill walk and I got too lazy to carry my sleeping bag and food for two days up there. SO, I missed the ceremonies, but did go up on Losar (Feb 18) for an impromptu audience with his brother Mingur Rinpoche and surreptitiously handed off a Kata to Tsoknyi in the stairwell! I’ve included a picture of Osel Ling as well as a few of the view from the top. Osel Ling is in Swayambu, so if you look closely at the pictures, you’ll see the stupa down below.

Then on the 19th I headed to Nagarkot with a friend from Pullahari (Vassia from Greece) Nagarkot is on the edge of the Kathmandu Valley and promises to have great mountain views, and at only 32km from the city is is worth a try. Vassia is one of these adventure types that re-kindled my spirit and so we were a great pair. We took the local bus to a town called Bhaktapur (I will go there in a few weeks on my own and have more to say) and from there another bus up the hill and into the smell of pine trees and mountain air. Nothing much to write about until waking up the next morning at sunrise to the view of the snow capped Himalayas. How spectacular! We stayed for two days and then hiked down 3 hours, through the most gorgeous spots I have seen of Nepal and finally to a village called Sankhu where we jumped in a mini bus back to Boudha.

It was nice to get away, but now that I m back I feel somewhat disappointed that I didn’t take time to study! A little over 2 weeks left of my course and pressure is mounting. Many people left so we are a small group and my Tibetan class even smaller. I have made some new decisions, and will leave here on the 13th when the program ends and move down to Boudha to attend some teachings with Thrangu Rinpoche and then return to Pullahari for a 4 day Ngondro program ending on April 4th. I will then travel to Tso Pema in India and do a month retreat..leaving me to visit the Karmapa and Dharamsala sometime in May. No news yet about my scholarship to Nitartha and/or what I will be doing when I get back…Most likely asking all of you for a place to sleep!

So, here I am continuing to reflect on the nature of phenomena and within this dream like state I still wonder about you, so please send word of your life. Laura

Gallery: Losar

globalld — Fri, 23 Feb 2007 23:06:00 GMT

Gallery: Nepal tid-bits

globalld — Sun, 11 Feb 2007 22:15:00 GMT

First days in Pullahari

globalld — Thu, 11 Jan 2007 20:38:00 GMT

Well I am cold. I mean really cold, but this place is just beautiful. It is nothing like what I had expected, maybe because my expectations were so low? It is really great. I have a large private room, the bathroom is basic, but has hot water 2 hours in the morning and 2 hours in the evening. Except for 3 days per week, one which is our day off. There are many buildings surrounding the main gompa (monastery), which are placed exquisitely on a large hill overlooking a rolling valley that is covered in fog in the morning and then slowly shows itself as the sun breaks through late afternoon, did I mention that it was cold? It’s hard to be this cold because there is really no warming up. I can’t remember ever being anywhere without heat, I slept well my first night under my good for “sub degree temperatures” sleeping bag + wool blanket I bought in town. Food so far has been tasty. Too much wheat, white rice and tofu for my taste, but all vegetarian, Thankfully there are eggs on the menu for breakfast.. So far the schedule seems manageable. Mostly because I am a beginner and can’t attend the advanced Tibetan text classes in the afternoons. I will still attend two classes a day. One from 9:00-11:00 and my beginning Tibetan class is from 11:30-1:00. This will pretty much be my schedule for the next 2 months. I have one day off a week (I think Wednesdays) I have daily Internet access that I haven’t used yet and I hear it is supposedly very slow. Also, I can make phone calls for 5 rupees a minute to the US (about 14 cents) So. I will be more accessible than I thought, and will hours everyday just for studying. Plus time for exercise; in fact my room is down 100 steep stairs that have to be climbed back up when I want to go anywhere! I have been averaging 5 trips a day up and down, To mostly any destination here it’s a hike, There are about 25 people in the program, For those of you reading from SF Shambhala, Center, Rob Lee is here as well as Jesse Litven who lived in the Bay Area for a short time a few years back. It is a nice group. France, England, Ireland, Canada, Greece, Spain, Australia, Argentina, USA, Taiwan and Malaysia..It’s really cold here. Imagine living in San Francisco without heat, now imagine it to be 30 degrees and surrounded by concrete and marble. I’m not complaining, really..Just cold. I have posted some pictures of my view. In the morning under the fog and then some of later in the afternoon. Some of my room and building where I am living as well as the stairs! More to come and please write! Laura

Gallery: Pullahari

globalld — Thu, 11 Jan 2007 20:31:00 GMT

Gallery: Kathmandu

globalld — Tue, 9 Jan 2007 21:30:00 GMT

Photos of Bodhnath area

Gallery: Varanasi and Sarnath

globalld — Tue, 9 Jan 2007 21:24:00 GMT

Boudha

globalld — Tue, 9 Jan 2007 21:22:00 GMT

Why is it that everyone thinks I’m 26? Do I act so young, talk so young, have a young gait? Or is it just my “good genes”, my diligent facial routine and my positive attitude? It is a complex topic.! Ah, I have finally arrived in Nepal! I am staying in the eastern part of Kathmandu, 6km from the main touristy area Thamel in the Tibetan Area called Bodhnath. Also known as Boudha, it is home to one of the worlds largest Stupas. (bell shaped complex designed to hold relics of the Buddha and also representative of Buddhist Philosophy. It is best to do a google search if you want a more accurate definition. Please look at the pictures in the gallery under Bodhnath) According to Lonely Planet, it is “one of the few places in the world where Tibetan culture is accessible, vibrant and unfettered”Do another google search on Bodhnath Stupa and see how special this place really is.. I think I read somewhere that it was built in 600AD. So far I can say that I am thrilled to be out of India. Maybe it is just my own mind (isn’t that always the case) but the vibe, the feeling is different here and more my scene. What I love most about traveling is just plain diving into the sights, sounds and smells of the exotic. The sensory overload and having that feeling of being totally engaged. Nothing more exhilarating and intoxicating in my opinion. This city is full of a rich cultural heritage that I have just stumbled upon. Best yet, I have 4 months to explore! (well not really as I only have one day off per week, but more or less I have time) It feels more cosmopolitan than the cities I visited in India and although it is dirty and there is trash everywhere, it is less dirty. And imagine no cows roaming the streets shitting, sleeping and wandering about! Small narrow streets filled with hotels and guest houses, bookshops, temples, monasteries, boutiques, cafes, Tibetan jewelry shops, thangha shops, art galleries, coffee houses, internet cafes, markets, convienience stores, pashmina and silk shops, camera, watch and eyeglass shops, street food vendors, clothing shops, music and video and cell phone stores and restaurants all clustered together! Old and new and modern and medieval mixed with westerners, tibetans and nepalese. I decided to stay in an upscale hotel for the night, relax, eat good food and go shopping to prepare for Monastery living. It is very cold here. Tonight it was in the 30’s and I have a feeling it is going to be even colder at Pullahari. I splurged and bought an Egyptian cotton towel, a pashmina (see picture), some ayurvedic facial products and my guilty pleasure, a blow dryer. ( I broke down and can’t seem to grasp non-attachment when it comes to my hair!) I was thinking that if any of you want me to do some shopping for you, send me your wish list. The way it would work for me is if you tell me what you want, I will send you pictures (jewelry,pashmina,thankas anything Tibetan) and then purchase and post off to you. Time is flying by. On my last day in India I left the group of 4 I had traveled to Sarnath with, to go explore the Nitty gritty of the oldest city in the world Varanasi. I traveled by auto rickshaw from Sarnath with 2 surgical masks on (one over the other) to protect what little breathing room I have left in these congested lungs of mine! Still sick and although my energy has returned I am still having trouble breathing.I hired a diver for the day to take me to all the important sites and to get a feel in just the one day I had of the old city on the Ganges. The Ganges is low right now being the dry season, but there is enough water for locals and pilgrims to bathe,wash laundry,swim in sub degree temperatures and gaze. I leave in a few hours to begin what I came here to do, I will be in touch! Laura

Last Day

globalld — Thu, 4 Jan 2007 18:52:00 GMT

Today is my last day in Bodhgaya. Yesterday a group of 8 of us took a day trip out to Ragjir and to Vulture peak where the Buddha gave his first sermon. Then to Nalanda University,which dates goes back to the 5th century . It was one of the greatest universities of the ancient world as well as being "the" monastic educational institurtion. It hosted famous Buddhist scholars such as Nagarjuna,Vasubandu, Asanga, Dharmakirti and Shantarashita. And was the place of birth and death of Sariputra. What an amazing experience to get to see and be in these places. Tomorrow I take a train to the city of Varanasi. One of the seven holiest cities.In Hinduism it is believed that those who die and are cremated here get an instant gateway to liberation from the cycle of births and re-births. Varanasi is situated on the banks of River Ganges, which is believed to have the power of washing away all of one's sins. As pundits here will tell you, whatever is sacrificed and chanted here or given in charity reaps its fruits thousand times more than those good deeds performed at other places because of the power of that place. Varanasi is the oldest city of the world and more than 3000 years old..I will stay in Sarnath(After his enlightenment in Bodhgaya, the Buddha went to Sarnath seeking his five former companions. He found them, taught them what he had learned, and they also became enlightened. This event is referred to as "the turning of the wheel of the Dharma" and also marks the founding of the Sangha..) I will post pictures! On the 8th finally, I will fly to Nepal. I can’t believe I have been gone 10 days already. As was predicted, I have made some new friends and seen some old ones. I am sick with a head cold, most likely from all the dust. Everything is covered with it and even with my big white mask I am still not immune! So far India has been all about getting used to being here. It is slow and filthy and also so colorful and infused with history. The roads are filled with sellers and shops and beggars and cows and small children, lots of trash and men urinating as well as all forms of transportation imaginable..Even pony drawn carriages. Today was the last empowerment and teaching and I will collect some leaves from the Bodhi tree for all that want one. Let me know! When I get a chance to really reflect I will have more to share. I am in a bit of overwhelm just from being in the presence of The Karmapa..L

Gallery: Bodhgaya

globalld — Mon, 1 Jan 2007 21:53:00 GMT

Kagyu monlam etc.

Making room for what lies ahead

globalld — Mon, 1 Jan 2007 01:02:00 GMT

Happy New Year! Well I’ve made it this far without any serious shenanigans! One night outside the monastery that has evening teachings by His Holiness Karmapa, I came out and my shoes were gone. I waited until the end and was having a melt down..I kept thinking well, they need them more than me, but that I REALLY need them because they are the only walking shoes that I brought. Now, the other part of the story is that this monastery is down a long dirt road with absolutely no light. Bumpy, mudy dusty, dark, and at least a mile from the main road. (Giving you visuals so you can imagine what it was like for me when I had to leave) A lesson on Impermanence. Fortunately the next night they appeared and obviously were taken by mistake! Really pointed out how often we jump to conclusions about the bad qualities in others.

In the evenings of the monlam HH Karmapa teaches to the foreign audience. There are so many of us, almost 1000 and the first time he has taught in an organized setting for westerners. Here are mostly Taiwanese, but also other Asians and of course the North Americans, Europeans, Australians, South Americans…You get the drift. The festival has taken over Bodhgaya and I am assuming the 3 consecutive ones that follow bring a majority of the years income to most of the locals. There are 4 schools of Buddhism and each school holds a similar event under the Bodhi tree. This year the Karmapa began learning English, so has also done some readings for us without a translator. On New Years Eve, my group got an audience with him and on New Years day we had audiences with Tsoknyi Rinpoche and Mingyur Rinpoche. There are many high Lamas and Rinpoches here, including Khenpo Tsultrum Gyamptso Rinpoche! (Such luck) The New Years Eve teachings were quite remarkable and profound in their simplicity. He said that the end of the year always signifies a time for us to change and/or make changes…and that the reality is, that it isn’t necessary for us to be bound and ruled by these concepts of time and custom. We need to focus more on our own willingness to change, and the inspiration and motivation behind that. But for now, we seem to need to depend on and feel supported by the concept of a New Year, and with that the new beginning. We are easily persuaded to use this time as an opportunity to start fresh. He talked about difficulties and hard times/painful times and how these are actually beneficial, because they become fuel for further human development. That we need to adorn our lives with the beneficial results, which become the attributes and expression of our dignity as humans. To really let go of the past, of the baggage, and make room for what lies ahead. That our main aspiration should be based on development of depth of wisdom, and that this development is dependent on our daily outlook.

Today, New Years day I am getting my aspirations for 07 in order and hope that all of you are doing the same. I am feeling so grateful that I am here and that my life is supporting my desire for change and deep learning.

So, far I haven’t gotten sick nor do I feel sick. Mosquitoes everywhere, it is cold in the mornings and evenings, warm and breezy in the afternoon, feels like San Francisco weather. The trip getting here was long but not terrible. I slept for 16 hours my second day here. This town is crowded and it has it’s beauty but is also filled with filth beyond imagine. Plastic bags, plastic water bottles and plastic wrappers end up everywhere. I walk by small children shitting in fields, Men take a piss wherever is convenient. The heaps of trash and mangy dogs..The cows. Everywhere cows. The busses and rickshaws and ponies and bicycles..Horns blaring in all ears fighting for dominance. So far it has been easier to just ignore the begging and persistence of the world surrounding me. I can’t imagine what it must be like to live like this and yet one is faced with how high and unrealistic our standards really are..and I am not talking just about our own comfort. This is my first taste of India. And so far it is nothing like what I thought it would be and then everything I thought it would be like. It continues to baffle me and I will write more about my experiences when I have had more time. Take a look at the pictures I have posted on this site: ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THIS PAGE CLICK ON BODHGAYA UNDER PHOTO GALLERY.. Maybe you’ll get a feeling of what it’s like to be here. My lungs are not happy because it is so dusty and I have to wear a surgical mask when walking around. I look forward to writing soon and hearing from you, Laura