The Road Less Traveled

10 November: Headed Home with Thailand In Our Hearts

gatornav — Fri, 10 Nov 2017 23:58:00 GMT

It’s that time. The time you dread; the end of vacation time. But at the same time, you look forward to the comforts of home. Time to head back to reality.

Wow….Freaking wow. 20 years of marriage celebrated with my beautiful and eternally 29-year-old bride. I’m the luckiest man on the planet. What a great trip, what a great time. To share this experience with our wonderful friends, what a great experience for all of us – you cannot recreate moments like those we have strung together over the last couple of weeks. All of it was far too cool.

Bangkok, you showed me a side of you I have never seen. Farewell to the supremely wonderful man who transformed the country into a great place. Having the opportunity to pay our respects to King Bhumibol Adulyadej, was a life-changing experience for my wife and me. Thank you, thank you, thank you. Phuket, your natural beauty and the visit from our monkey friends, made it all worthwhile. Chiang Mai, we fell in love last year. That love grew this year – such a wonderful place. It is not hard to imagine us there sometime in the future. Phitsanulok… your storied history with the great King, Sanphet Naresuan, continues to intrigue and inspire me. To share that history with friends and family was incredible. Thailand captured my heart well over 20 years ago, but it still holds my heart close today. My wife’s love and the beautiful Thai lens she views life through gives me perspective I would not otherwise have. Somkit is an incredible woman; I learn from her every day. Even more so when we are in Thailand together.

So yes, we all agree it was a great time… When is the next trip? I’m ready to go right now…. This is the final journal entry for this trip. Thank you so much for following our travels these last few weeks. If you are considering a trip to Thailand, I would be more than happy to help you plan your experience. Just hit me up.

Thank you to my wonderful wife, Somkit as well as our great friends Frank and Sharon. The experiences were incredible. The times spent together were simply unforgettable. Krahp khun krahp mahk mahk -- Sanook mahk jung loei!!

9 November: Last Day/Night in Bangkok Before Leaving

gatornav — Thu, 9 Nov 2017 22:14:00 GMT

Today was our last full day in Thailand. Time to pack in as much Bangkok as we possibly could until around midnight. That meant “Bangkok by day; Bangkok by night.”

Our hotel, the Grand Sathorn, is located not too far from the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok. This used to be the lifeline of the city during a time where waterways were the most important thoroughfares. A large series of “klongs” (canals) ran through the city as well. Most of the klongs are no longer here though. However, the river still is a vibrant part of life in Bangkok.

We hopped a cab to a pier and dropped about $45 on an hour long, private long tail boat ride down the river and one of the klongs – not bad for the four of us. Weather was a little overcast, but other than that, it seemed like a good deal. The boat would drop us off not far from Wat Pho, where the famous reclining Buddha image is located.

The boat ride was great, we got lots of great pictures and video. The riverside area of Bangkok is still experiencing flooding, so a number of the residents along the river are still dealing with that. If you go to Bangkok, you must take at least a short ride along the Chao Phraya – good times.

We saw some great sights for about an hour, then were dropped off at a local pier. Nearby, we grabbed some coffee and ice cream at a coffee shop…. I wish I could remember the name. After coffee, we walked down to Wat Pho. It is a sprawling complex with so much to see. You must plan on a couple of hours for this one if you are to walk the grounds. The reclining Buddha took us well over a half an hour to take proper photos and see the entire image. It is truly spectacular. We exited Wat Pho, headed down the walk toward Wat Phra Keao – the temple of the emerald Buddha. It was extremely crowded. Most temples will allow men to wear long shorts. Also, they will provide a sarong for women in shorts. Not this temple. A couple of people in our party were turned away, so we decided that it was too crowded anyway on this particular day.

Attractions in that area are quite crowded this month, because the exhibit honoring the life, reign, and lasting impact of King Bhumibol Adulyadej is still available to the public at the Royal Crematorium until the end of November. Never in my life have I seen a more beautiful tribute than this display, including the structures to honor King Rama IX of the Chakri dynasty. Truly incredible. I am so extremely glad that we went to pay respects. For my wife – as well as the generation before her – this is the only monarch they have ever known. No singular person has had a greater impact on Thailand in the 20^th and 21^st centuries than this one man. He saw himself as a leader, but as someone to serve the Thai people – a servant leader in the most respectful sense. Working to advance Thailand and the well-being of the Thai peoples, his accomplishments are too much to go into detail here, but suffice it to say his influence will be felt for many, many generations. Visiting this memorial has inspired me to read a book or two about the King Bhumibol Adulyadej who forever changed Thailand for the better.

After the Royal Crematorium, we grabbed a tuk-tuk to take us to the storied Mandarin Oriental Hotel along the river. The ride was like something out of a movie as the four of us and the driver went weaving from lane to lane – going against traffic at some points – just to get there a little quicker. The Mandarin is such a beautiful hotel and its older parts evoke memories of a time long past. Grandeur and grace describe the Oriental in Bangkok. It’s a neat place to stroll around and check out. We walked up a path or two from the Mandarin and found a great little boutique wine and beer joint where we could enjoy some refreshments on the street. We grabbed some street-food snacks as well. Great friends, cold refreshments, good times.

Clock’s ticking. Gotta check out some more souvenirs. Sun has set and that means the Patpong night market is open. We grabbed a taxi and headed down the road. Patpong USED to be the biggest red-light district in Bangkok. In the street, there has long been a night market that has souvenirs for tourists. It is still there. However, many of the bars are now shops specializing in luggage and other items. In some cases, restaurants have replaced bars. Thirsty for a drink, we tucked into a go-go bar before shopping the market. This bar was of course intriguing for my friends who have not been to Thailand previously. After a drink, we found the last remaining souvenirs and headed out to the train station.

We paid our train fare and headed down to the Sukhumvit side of town. Getting off the sky train, it was a short jaunt to the famous “Soi Cowboy,” another red-light district. Soi Cowboy does not have a street market in the middle. It is a relatively short street that has a lively atmosphere. We sat outside a local establishment and hung out for a while. Good times again, but it was getting late….

Heading back to our side of town in a taxi, we stopped at the corner up from our hotel and grabbed some eats. Just what we needed late night before some packing and a few hours before getting up for the airport.

The day was packed full. We put a lot of miles walking around, but what a great time it was. Back at the room, final packing commenced. A few hours of sleep was all we were afforded…. 4:30 AM was coming in a just a few hours…..

Thank you again for reading this journal. Cheers.

8 November: Goodbye to Phitsanulok....

gatornav — Wed, 8 Nov 2017 23:33:00 GMT

Phitsanulok, you came and went in a hurry. We had such a great time visiting with my wife’s family, seeing the local sights, and of course…. EATING! This morning we grabbed a light breakfast at the hotel and set to packing up our bags. My youngest sister-in-law came by a bit later to pick us up as lunch approached. Looking to have something a bit different, we mentioned if there was a decent burger place nearby.

Penang Steak Brasserie is a fairly new restaurant that features dry-aged beef among other things. It’s not a place I would have thought would find its way into Phitsanulok, but times have changed. Three of us ordered the “classic burger,” and it did not disappoint at all. It took a bit longer than other items on the menu (we were warned), but we thought it might be because they were fresh-grinding the beef. It was soooo very good. Cooked to perfection as well. My wife and I will definitely check this place out again during our next visit to Phitsanulok.

After lunch, we collected our luggage at the hotel and headed for the airport. My middle sister-in-law, youngest niece, and father-in-law were there too in order to see us off. We checked in without issue and waited a bit until time to proceed to the gate. When that time came, goodbyes were exchanged and we headed up to the departure area. We were flying Nok Air (Nok = Bird in Thai). Nok is a lower-cost, mostly domestic airline. Their largest shareholder is Thai Airways, which is a good sign. Today, as usual, they were very efficient during check-in and boarding. Their service is very good. Flight time to Bangkok is usually only about 30 minutes or so, but due to air traffic in Bangkok, we had to slow down. It probably took us an extra 10 or 15 minutes. No big deal.

At Don Mueang Airport in Bangkok, we were met by our oldest niece who attends college for “aviation business,” at North Bangkok University. One of her school uniforms is actually like a flight attendant or airline check-in agent uniform. As she was waiting to greet us, tourists were asking her which way to go for a taxi – they thought she worked there! Soon after, we grabbed a couple of metered taxis, and hit the expressway for our hotel in the Silom/Sathorn area of Bangkok. In the taxi heading from north Bangkok into the heart of the city, I was reminded just how large Bangkok is. Our times in Chiang Mai and Phitsanulok – and even Phuket – were in mostly quiet places where there was some traffic occasionally, but you could largely ignore it. There’s no ignoring it in Bangkok. It’s everywhere. This city has a vibrant personality for sure, but it is a personality all together different from the places we have been since leaving here almost 2 weeks ago.

Our hotel is The Grand Sathorn. It is not a new place, but has been very well maintained. Our suite is spacious, the air is cool, and it’s very clean. The wood floors are beautiful. I found it on Agoda.com. Just around the corner is the BTS Sky Train station – another one of the reasons I booked here. It provides a great way to get around the city.

On the recommendation from a gentlemen at the front desk, we ventured just a few doors up to Baan Glang Soi restaurant. It is a delightfully quaint restaurant. The seats were just about all taken – we headed to the back banquet room initially for to review the menu and order drinks while waiting for a seat in the main dining area. That opened up in about 10 minutes. The food was very tasty. I had ground pork with chili and spicy basil. My wife had a spicy seafood noodle stir fry that she was commenting hours later how great it was. The food was very reasonably priced. If you are down in the Sathorn area, I recommend it. They also have a guest house that comes highly rated on Trip Advisor as well.

After dinner, we all walked our niece to the BTS Sky Train station around the corner. We perused some stalls in a makeshift market, then dropped into 7-11 for a few items. From there it was a short walk back to the hotel to settle in for the evening.

Today was not an overly exciting day. But as my friend so observantly said today, “Transition days are great because they are a chance to just relax and enjoy the ride.” Well-said, my friend. Indeed, today was a good day to take in some great food, spend some time with family, and relax a bit.

Tomorrow, our plans are to get to the Grand Palace, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, and take a boat ride on the Chao Phraya River. It should make for a great time during our last full day in Thailand.

Thank you again for reading this journal. Cheers.

7 November: The Real Thailand with the Thai Side of Our Family

gatornav — Tue, 7 Nov 2017 23:59:00 GMT

Today was a day that was about getting together with my wife’s family at her father’s house and showing our friends what Thai life is like in a farming community.

My youngest sister-in-law drove us out to the village where my wife’s father lives. The house is a traditional Thai home. As it is about 200 meters from a major waterway – the Nan River – the house was built on stilts. During the warm daytime hours, my father-in-law, family and friends tend to hang out on a large wooden platform under the home. The breeze blows through there, making it more comfortable than being in the house.

Upon arrival, we saw a table set up under the house – lots of food was ready to go. My middle sister-in-law (Lek), had arrived very early in the morning and began cooking for our family lunch. My youngest niece came a bit later than Lek, but still early to help set up. For the meal, there were pork ribs, chicken with spicy basil, fried morning glory with garlic and chili, beef with Chinese broccoli in oyster sauce, Thai catfish, as well as a number of other dishes. It was a lunch feast presented by my sister-in-law to honor our friends’ visit and show them a great traditional Thai meal. Lek is a great cook and everything was so very delicious.

Extended family came by to say hello. Two of my father-in-law’s sisters who live nearby dropped in, one with her husband. Throughout their lives, the brothers and sisters of my wife’s father have gone to live in the city of Phitsanulok and surrounding areas. However, as they begin to reach their golden years, they are all reconsolidating back in the village from where they came. Many of them are very nearby on family land.

After we relaxed from lunch, we loaded up 4 scooters and headed out on a tour of the local area. At the village temple, we saw the school where my wife, her siblings, and my niece attended their earliest classes. We also saw the village longboat – longer than dragon boats in the U.S. This one needs over 50 people to operate it. It’s housed at the temple. Just about the whole family at the temple was decked out in University of Florida Gator gear. So we had a good “We Chomp” photo on the temple grounds. Just outside of the temple grounds, there is a floating platform on the river. We went down there to get a closer look at the river. The breeze was wonderful. One of our friends looked over the edge and to her surprise, there was a dead monitor lizard up against the floating platform. It was about 4 to 4 ½ feet long. Pretty big. My father-in-law was not surprised. He said in recent years he sees more and more of them in the rice fields. Some small…. Others are big like this one. If you are not familiar with a monitor lizard, they are the smaller cousins of the Komodo Dragon (which can grow to 9 feet long). Monitor lizards in Thailand tend to be near water and have voracious appetites. If you ever encounter one, you should try to avoid a direct confrontation.

After touring the temple and nearby area, we took the back paths along the river; some paved and some unpaved touring my wife’s village and neighboring villages. It was a great leisurely ride through the villages. We dropped in on my wife’s oldest aunt who is bedridden and has severe memory loss – maybe Alzheimer’s. After a while, she barely recognized me, but in her old sense of humor she said, “I remember you now, but I won’t tomorrow.” She had a hard time recognizing my wife and her two sisters. When my niece came into her view, she recognized her right away and started asking her about her trip abroad (when she came to visit us in the US). There are those moments of clarity that come through. It was good to see her, and after all she has been through, my wife’s aunt is doing okay. There are some great family members looking after her.

After the visit, we set out on the back paths through the thicker part of the villages. Breezes were blowing through the trees as the jungle grew thicker. On the backside of our trip, we happened upon a temple that recently built an outdoor Buddha that stands about 60 feet tall and is visible from the highway. After taking in that sight, we stopped at my wife’s cousin’s house. She is a seamstress and sewed my wife a traditional Thai outfit from silk fabric we bought in Doi Pui near Chaing Mai last year. It is a beautiful two-piece combination – her cousin did a great job.

Returning to my father-in-law’s house, we relaxed for a while, took a number of pictures, and then said goodbye. Most of us headed back to town in the car. Lek and my niece were on a scooter and left 10 minutes after us. Later we learned that the two of them encountered a 6-foot black cobra – it was merely crossing the road – but still alarmed them quite a bit as it impeded their path.

Back at my youngest sister-in-law’s house (who is a barber) , the guys got haircuts. We then headed to the hotel briefly then out to a night bazaar for some possible shopping and a nearby restaurant for dinner. The food was pretty good and extremely reasonable.

Later, we were back in the room and beginning to consolidate things for packing for the morning. We’ll have time for lunch before our flight tomorrow, so our experience in Phitanulok has not come to an end yet.

On another note… today is my Mother’s birthday. Happy Birthday, Mom!!! We will call you in the evening your time when it is most convenient for you.

Thank you again for taking the time to read this journal. Cheers and happy travels.

6 November: Walking Through Thai History in Phitsanulok

gatornav — Mon, 6 Nov 2017 23:58:00 GMT

Today was a day to first explore history with some of the family and then spend time with even more family.

Phitsanulok is rich with history. While many casual readers of Thai tourism books become familiar with the Kingdoms of Sukothai, Ayutthaya, and Lanna, they are less likely to know the vital part that Phitsanulok played in the history of Thailand.

I cannot do it justice here in a paragraph of two -- or five. Ayutthaya is to the south, just north of what is now Bangkok. King Borommatrailokanat moved the capital of the Ayutthaya kingdom to Phitsanulok in 1463 to strengthen the northern boundary of the kingdom. As such, Phitsanulok served as the northern outpost from which wars were waged with the enemies of the Ayutthaya. The great warrior King Somdet Phra Naresuan freed the Ayutthaya kingdom from Burmese rule and occupation from the mid to late 1500s. If you have ever seen a portrait or tapestry in a Thai restaurant depicting a battle on elephants, then you have seen part of his story that is revered in Thai history. Here's a little more on it...

In 1593, Burmese General Mingyi Swa was attacking Naresuan’s troops. Naresuan feigned retreat and then met Mingyi Swa with a lesser army. Nearly surrounded, he threw down the gauntlet that no man of honor at that time could refuse. Commander vs. Commander on elephants. Winner take all.

As the elephants charged at each other Naresuan nearly had his head lopped off in the battle, but was able to dodge Mingyi Swa’s attack. His skill proved to be the difference as he killed Mingyi Swa with a swipe of his battle lance, dropping him dead on the neck of his elephant. The Burmese retreated, taking the body of their commander home. Naresuan through this – and many other battles – solidified his place in history.

Naresuan embodies the spirit and people of Phitsanulok. Shrines, statues, even the university here in Phitsanulok bear tribute to the man who worked his entire adult life to free Thailand from oppression. Today we explored a museum that was largely dedicated to the Naresuan’s defense of Thailand as well as a shrine to him. The grounds around the museum were going to be turned into a school, but around 20 years ago, as they began clearing the grounds, they found remnants of a foundation. Turns out, it was the foundation of the former palace in Phitsanulok – the birthplace of Naresuan. Through the years, the foundation has been excavated. Much of what was there was destroyed by invading armies after Naresuan’s death. But it is still sacred ground for the people of Phitsanlulok.

Following our time at the museum, the shrine, and the former palace grounds, we crossed the river to Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat, better known as Wat Yai (The Big Temple) founded in 1357. The temple is very famous because of Buddha image, Phra Buddha Chinnarat, one of the most (if not THE most) revered Buddha images in all of Thailand.

I have been to many temples in Thailand. Some of the structures are extremely large and very impressive. Many of the Buddha images are very beautiful. There is just something about the temple at Wat Yai and the Buddha Chinnarat that sets it apart. The temple is not small, but it is not huge. So you are somewhat up close and personal with the same Buddha statue that King Naresuan himself would sit in front of and pray to before going into battle. Want a front-row seat in history? It awaits you here. From the former palace grounds, to the shrine, to Wat Yai – you can literally walk through Thai history in Phitsanulok.

After our historical tour, we readied for dinner. My brother-in-law and his wife drove an hour to see us. My father-in-law came in from the village to join us as well. We had dinner in what is my favorite restaurant in Phitsanulok – Krua (“kitchen”). The service there is always great and we had the same main waitress we have had for 3 or 4 years running now. She knows us well. Great food, good conversation. My sister-in-law came up with the idea to get my wife a cake as her birthday is next week. It was a great ending to the evening with family and friends.

After dinner, our travel crew and my youngest sister-in-law headed over to the hotel where my wife worked years ago to show where we met. Her best friend still works there, so we visited with her as well. It was a bit late, so we were brief. But it was time well spent for my wife to see her.

Tomorrow we will head out to the village to see my father-in-law some more as well as expose our friends to village life in Thailand. While it has changed for the better quite a bit in the last 20 years or so, I’m sure it will provide a new and exciting experience for them while giving us some more time with my wife’s dad.

Thank you again for reading today’s journal. Cheers!

5 November: Chiang Mai ---> Phitsanulok

gatornav — Sun, 5 Nov 2017 23:55:00 GMT

Today was another day of transition. We were packing up in Chiang Mai and heading about 5 hours south to Phitsanulok – my wife’s home changwat (or province). In the morning, our crew enjoyed breakfast at our hotel, the Loghome Boutique. The restaurant is really good there and the staff is very efficient. It was a solid start to our day.

We had hired a van and a driver for the trip from a local tour organizer across the street from our hotel a couple days prior. Such a stroke of luck – the van and driver for four of us was less than a sedan last year for two people. About $120 for a private ride for a party of four in a comfortable air conditioned van – we were quite satisfied.

Along the way we were able to make some stops for snacks. Apparently the province and the city of Phrae is known for its pineapples. My middle sister-in-law asked my wife to pick up some. Well, alongside the road they were waiting for us. For about 60 cents each, my wife loaded up about 10 pineapples. The vendor gave me a sample. It was soooo sweet. We are taught that Hawaiian pineapples are the best. They can cost about $15-20 each to bring back to the mainland. I have never tasted a Hawaiian pineapple as tasty as the one on the side of the road in Phrae. Gimme the 60-cent version any day.

We arrived at our hotel in Phitsanulok. I had used Booking.com to reserve the room. It was in fairly new hotel called the Morage near my youngest sister-in-law’s house. Frequented mostly by Thais, I think we may be the only “farangs,” (white foreigners) here. That’s okay. The room is spacious and clean and has plenty of cool air conditioning if we need it. Fortunately, this is about the coolest I can remember Phitsanulok in the last 23 years. So while the AC is good – it is not stifling outside.

The ladies wanted to get their hair washed, dried, and ironed. A salon my wife has frequented in the past is not too far from the hotel. My middle sister-in-law picked us all up and drove to the salon. After dropping off the ladies, the men and my sister-in-law unsuccessfully looked for a laundry that charged by the kilogram. Striking out, we did what anybody else would do past 5:30 pm…. We sat down to have a beer or two. Our original plan was to go to a night market when the ladies were done. However, it began to rain lightly, so when the ladies arrived – my youngest sister-in-law and my niece too – we decided to settle in to this restaurant. The beer was the coldest I have ever had in Thailand. It came out from the back with frost on the bottle. My wife and her relatives ordered all the food – it was all delicious. Lots of chatting, pictures, and fun. It was great to see my niece again – she had spent 4 months with us in the USA earlier this year. Her English was even better as she carried on conversations with my friends and me without hesitation displaying total comfort and confidence in doing so.

Several hours after sitting down, it was time to head for home. While it had been a somewhat quiet day, what made it so very good was spending time with some family we have not seen in a year and sharing that time with our good friends.

My wife has plans the next morning to renew her Thai national ID card. Every Thai is able to get a card like this – it is extremely inexpensive (about 90 cents). This ID is required for many things – opening a bank account, getting a driver’s license, boarding an airplane, and voting. Somehow this is a bizarre concept in my home country and the idea of requiring an ID for certain things can be considered by some to be an infringement on rights – especially the rights of the poor. Many people in Thailand qualify as poor, but as the government ensures that an ID is accessible and attainable by all, that concept of infringement has been solidly disproven here in Thailand.

Also tomorrow, we will explore the rich history of the Phitsanulok province, the city of Phitsanulok, and the sacred temple, Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat better known to locals as Wat Yai – home of the Phra Buddha Chinnarat image.

Thank you again for taking the time to read this journal. Cheers!

4 November: The Beauty of Chiang Mai... Old and New.

gatornav — Sat, 4 Nov 2017 23:58:00 GMT

Today was a great all-around day. We had arranged our own private “song teow” (two rows) truck to take us on a private tour up the mountain today. Sounds expensive, but it isn’t. The funny thing is that a driver will charge 300-400 baht per person up and down the mountain round trip – or 200 each way. They will load the song teow with 8-10 people. We called someone who drove us last year – he was busy, but got his friend to take 4 of us round trip in private comfort for 1000 baht. The lesson here is that if you bargain with them and are polite – tip them too – you can get a better deal that is on your time.

We first went up to Doi Pui which is a Hmong villager settlement and cultural camp. On our way, we stopped at a scenic vantage point and took some pictures overlooking the city of Chiang Mai and the airport. Of course there were some great grilled snacks to be had, so my wife collected up a few pork and chicken sticks from the vendors there. The ride up to Doi Pui can be a bit slow as the road winds around the mountain. The temperature drops, the flora changes, and the road narrows. Once we were there, the settlement was teeming with activity. It was a Saturday, so plenty of tourists. There was some good shopping to be had up there and our friends rounded out a number of the souvenirs they have been looking to buy for family and friends at home. The ladies got to dress up in traditional Hmong outfits and we took plenty of photos in the botanical garden and near the waterfall. The weather was so cool and beautiful up that high. Doi Pui is high enough and cool enough that poinsettias grow and bloom nearly all year long there – not what you would expect in Thailand.

After our time in the Hmong settlement, we headed down the mountain slightly to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep – the beautiful temple founded in the 14^th century around 1383. You have to climb 306 steps from the base to get to the temple. The staircase features ornate naga (serpent deities) on either side. If I remember reading correctly, the snake figures date back about 500 years. Their heads are at the base of the staircase, and their bodies go all the way to the top. Green enamel “scales” have been preserved well. Wat Doi Suthep (for short), is beautiful. This was my second time there. The air is crisp and clean, the sky is so very blue. There are numerous temple structures on the grounds such as ubosots (prayer rooms) that have been added through the years. The golden chedi that is the centerpiece of the temple is incredible. On each of the four corners are gilded umbrella-like structures. They glisten in the sunlight and made for some beautiful photographs.

After leaving the temple, we returned to the Old City in Chiang Mai to our hotel. After climbing up and down the Naga staircase, it was time for a massage. After checking around to several locations (because they were busy) we found a Lila Thai Massage location that could take us in an hour or so. With that in mind, we settled in across the street at a bistro for some beverages and snacks.

The massage did not disappoint. It was just what we all needed. Lila Massage is a connected to a government rehab program for female prisoners – teaching them a skill (certified massage) they can use on the outside. With their certification, these ladies can work for hotels and spas down the line. The best massages I have had in Thailand have been with ladies plying their new-found skills at Lila. Always courteous, polite, and professional, I highly recommend Lila if you are in Chiang Mai looking for a massage.

Then we struck out for the Saturday night market. We got some food from the street stalls – most of it was quite good. Then we headed down the market street. While we were briefly looking at the items for sale, initially our main goal was to get down the street to Wat Sri Suphan – Better known as “The Silver Temple.” When my wife and I accidently stumbled across this temple last year, I was simply astounded at its beauty. The original temple – which was not silver – was built in 1502 and little if anything from those days remain on the grounds. The silver temple was constructed beginning in 2008. It is one-of-a-kind. I believe it is best visited at night when LED lights illuminate the outside in different colors – green and purple are the most stunning. Interesting to note, while women are allowed on the temple grounds and in the temple (not the silver one), the silver ubosot – or main prayer room – excludes women. The explanation is rooted in old Buddhist beliefs. There are amulets more than 500 years old beneath the silver ubosot (temple). Ancient beliefs dictate that women do not come too close to those antiquities or it may hurt the sanctity of the temple as well as the purity of the women themselves. Most women seem to not have a problem with it out of respect for a religion that generally places the female gender in very high regard.

After the silver temple, we wandered back through the market. Our friends collected up a few more souvenirs for family and friends. It had been a long day, so we made our way back to our hotel to wind down and retire for the evening. We all agreed it had been a great day, full of memories and great pictures. It was definitely just what we needed for our last day in the wonderful city of Chiang Mai.

Thank you for taking time to read this journal. Cheers!

3 November; Hill Tribes and Loi Krathong Vibes

gatornav — Fri, 3 Nov 2017 21:45:00 GMT

Today is the full moon of the 12^th month of the lunar calendar. That means it is Loi Krathong here in Thailand. One of the largest holidays, Loi Krathong – as the name suggests in Thai – is when you “float a basket.” That basket is floated down a river as the person releases it makes a wish for the coming year. Supposedly, you also “float away” all the bad things in your life and send them down river. Here in Chiang Mai, Loi Krathong coincides with the Yi Peng festival. For Yi Peng, floating lanterns are released into the sky. Word has it, flights out of Chiang Mai have been rescheduled or cancelled for this evening due to lanterns filling the night. I can see them – there are hundreds within view at any given time. Thousands have been released tonight from down on the Mae Ping river – also where people are releasing their floats (Krathong).

This morning we set out on a trip to visit numerous hill tribe people in a cultural village north of here. The tribes, their crafts, and their traditional attire were on display. We thoroughly enjoyed talking with the people there and getting to know more about their cultures. Perhaps one of the most interesting is the Karen Padung tribe. These are the ones who are famous for their “long necks.” The women wear brass rings around their necks that actually push some of their bones downward rather than stretch their necks. People will argue about visiting these tribes – whether or not ethical or not. But not visiting may actually do more harm to these people. Some are still in refugee status here and this is their means of making money. We tried to get to know some of them a bit more – asking about their culture and learning from them. All in all, it was a good visit. We had some people smiling when we left.

After coming back to Chiang Mai, we headed down to the market near the river. We shopped around for some spices my wife wanted and some Asian snacks our friends wanted. Afterward, we settled in at a table on the river for a couple of beers. There we saw the beginning of krathongs floating down the river. After some that, we made our way back towards our hotel. The busy road leading to the river was teeming with people headed to release their krathongs and lanterns on the river. We bumped into our British friends from yesterday’s elephant experience along the road – made sure we connected with them on some social media. Good times.

Tonight, dinner at the hotel. Right under our noses has been one of the tastier restaurants in the old city. Always full of people, it was a “why not” moment. The kitchen did not disappoint. Our friends ordered a pizza – that was really pretty good. The Thai food was really good too.

Overall, a great day today with hill tribes and Loi Krathong vibes. Really enjoying this trip.

Tomorrow, we will head up the mountain to visit a few sights including the temple at Doi Suthep. The weather has been outstanding so far – it should continue to be so – just quite a bit cooler up the mountain. My wife and I went there last year. So crisp, so beautiful. Our travel crew is looking forward to it.

Thank you again for taking time to read this journal. Cheers.

2 November 2017: A Window to an Elephant's Soul

gatornav — Thu, 2 Nov 2017 23:25:00 GMT

To look into an elephant’s eyes is to gaze through the window to its soul. Beautiful. Majestic. Powerful. Gentle. I can’t think of another animal that I can bond with faster than an elephant and I’m not sure why. Legends tell that they are so much smarter than we assume they are – those legends are most likely right.

So today with friends, my wife and I struck out on an elephant experience like we did last year. A familiar face in the same driver picked us up. The drive up to the elephant sanctuary area of Chiang Mai Province can take about 90 minutes. Before we left the city, we picked up a couple from Britain and another from France. Really nice people all of them. Dave, from Britain was quite talkative, and he hit it off with our group. In retrospect, we should have gotten his contact information.

The drive takes you up through hillside vistas with beautiful views. The government has put down new roads in many areas and continue to do so now – so the conditions are quite good.

Once at Woody’s Elephant Experience, we were briefed up on the order of events for the morning/early afternoon. We were introduced to our pachyderm friends. Before the names were read, my wife and I recognized a familiar face – Lumyai! Lumyai was our elephant friend from last year. She is a HUGE female elephant -- Slow, gentle, and very lovable. Lumyai (named after a local fruit) is a very young 23 years old, but stands much taller than most of her contemporaries. As I walked up to her and reached to touch her trunk, I could sense she remembered my wife and I. Looking into her large eyes and talking to her in Thai, she looked me square in the eye, trunk in a friendly position as I held onto her. They know…. I swear they know…. My wife spoke to the guide and told him we wanted this elephant friend again this year.

We got to see Coffee – another friend from last year -- again. Coffee is a medium-sized female elephant we met last year along with her baby (who was simply adorable). Baby is now a year older and off at elephant training school. Coffee was looking good and we fed her some snacks that were provided. Another real good girl.

Speaking of snacks….Sugarcane and bananas were the snack of the day. We did our best to spread it across the entire elephant gang. Admittedly, Lumyai got a larger share from us. She has a huge appetite – this was like a warm-up round for this big gal. Her appetite is voracious as I remembered from last year.

After snack time, we climbed aboard our elephant partners. Sounds easy. Not so much when your elephant’s head is nearly 8 feet above the ground. Big girl was trying to help as was the handler (mahout). We got on board and settled in for the ride.

Riding an elephant down a hill is a slow process. They take their time – thankfully. Lumyai is a big, slow gal (most of the time). Her appetite compels her to rip grass and flowers along the path to chew on as we made our way to the river. I knew this would happen as this is exactly what she did last year. The only time Lumyai moved fast is when she spied local dogs in her path. I don’t know what these dogs ever did to her, but she picks up pace to chase them down. You can bet they high-tail it to get out of her way. If she gets ahold of one of them, she’ll probably toss it 30 feet in the air. They say that elephants never forget. Not sure what you dogs did to Lumyai, but she has NOT forgotten.

Once at the river, Lumyai was all about the bath. My wife and I took to the river to splash her down and use the brush to get her clean. Like last year, she practically kept her entire head submerged and used her trunk like a snorkel. We played with her in the river for 20 minutes or so. Once back on land, Lumyai was lifting people into the air. She lifted my wife so high, that she could feel her teeth. No, she wasn’t biting her, just lifting her so high that my wife was close to her mouth. Lumyai proceeded to lift a number of people for photo opportunities.

After photos were finished, we headed back up the hill to the elephant camp. Lumyai was especially slow, stopping to partake of the pathside snacks. She did pick up pace when a dog ran by her though!

When we got to the top of the hill, Lumyai kneeled down to help us get down. I stood there with her for a minute. Looked into those big eyes again. Giving her a short hug around the trunk – I looked back to her eyes and said goodbye. To look into an elephant’s eyes is to gaze through the window to its soul….

Our evening back in Chiang Mai was about feeling good. Ladies with hair washing, a cut, and styling. Men went with face scrubs and conditioning. It was very refreshing.

After that we hopped restaurants and bars – eating various local food and drinking some beers. It was a relaxing finish to a great day.

The thousand words that compose today’s journal cannot capture how wonderful our time with the elephants was today. Those majestic animals provide a life-changing experience when you get up-close and get to know them. While we “knew” our elephant friend from last year, it was so very special for us to see her and share time with Lumyai again this year.

I hope you enjoyed this journal entry. Share with your family and friends! Cheers.

1 November: Temples... Feel the Spirits of the Past

gatornav — Wed, 1 Nov 2017 23:05:00 GMT

Today was our first full day in Chiang Mai. We started our day by eating some breakfast at Sailomjoy Restaurant – yes, I ate Khao Soi again today. It was delicious yet again.

After breakfast, it was temple time. Starting off on foot, we were walking the “Old City” of Chiang Mai exploring the many temples here (without seeing them all yet). Of all the places I have been in Thailand, Chiang Mai has more Thai temples per square kilometer than any other town or city – Bangkok included. The Lanna Kingdom – or “Kingdom of a thousand rice fields,” was big on temples back in the day. There are literally temples right next door to or across the street from another temple. And the temples here have such history. Many of them date back to when the Lanna Kingdom here in the north of Thailand was in its glory days. If you’re keeping score at home kids, that’s in the neighborhood of 500-700 years ago. The life of that kingdom was even greater – from 1292 until about the time Paul Revere was on horseback warning that “The British are coming,” in 1775. Perspective.

I won’t go into every temple we saw today – there were 7 of them, I believe. They were all so different. The photo I chose to go with this journal post is of the ruins at Wat Chedi Luang. I love old temple ruins. You can feel spirits of the past and imagine what the local people thought back in the day as they stood in front of what must have been some of the most majestic structures. Incredible.

We had a driver part of the day that took us to a couple of temples outside of the old city that we would not have thought to go to. These were two sights to be seen. Wat Suan Dok was built by the King of the Lanna Kingdom around 1373 AD and houses a piece of the remains of the original Buddha, Siddhartha Gautama. The remains of the King, Queen, and numerous other royals are interred on the grounds here all in their own monumental chedis. A beautiful open-air (on four sides) temple also adorns the grounds.

After our temple tours, we had a simple dinner at a local favorite up the road from the hotel just a bit. We have been planning our next few days which includes tours to hill tribes as well as a trip to Chiang Rai and the “White Temple” to the north of us near the Burmese border. But before that, we have an adventure tomorrow…. Elephants!!

Look into an elephant’s eyes and you are looking through a window into its soul. They are such beautiful and majestic beings. I always cherish the opportunity to get up close and get to know them. Maybe we will see the one from last year – her name was Lumyai. I’ll know her when I see her. I’ll bet she’ll remember me and the wife too…. They never forget!

I hope you enjoyed today’s journal. Cheers.

31 October: Chiang Mai. Of Khao Soi, Massage, and Markets

gatornav — Tue, 31 Oct 2017 11:59:00 GMT

Happy Halloween! Another day of transition for us as we leave beautiful Phuket for the northern charm of Chiang Mai. We were so fortunate that the weather cooperated for us in Phuket. The rains held off on our boat tour to James Bond Island and other islands and we were able to walk the streets without the weather hampering our exploration.

Air Asia was again efficient getting us on board and giving us an eventless flight -- landing in Chiang Mai right on time. A short taxi ride later, we were at our hotel, “Loghome Boutique.” Wood is the style here and each room is like a little log cabin. While the inside of the room is a very simple with few amenities, it suits our needs just fine. Clean, quiet, and providing a unique experience, this hotel attracts people from all demographics.

Once our things were in the room, we hit the ground running. We went to one of the wife’s and my favorite local eateries, Sailomjoy Restaurant. I was craving the local favorite noodle dish, Khao Soi, and Sailomjoy did not disappoint! My wife had the same along with some other things, so I finished her Khao Soi as well! Outstanding to say the least.

After lunch, we decided a massage was in order. (Note to self: Massage is best done when not full of Khao Soi.) We went to Lila Thai Massage. This is a place that has worked with a government program that rehabilitates female prison inmates by teaching them a skill – massage therapy. While many places in Thailand have people who can give a massage, most of those people are not actually formally trained to do it. They learn technique from a co-worker or just wing it. These women, released from prison, are taught a skill and then can be placed at Lila Massage to provide a service. What a great concept! They are quite skilled and the massage is 100% professional. They ask you to rate your masseuse after the experience. The four of us had a semi-private area -- which was great so we could occasionally make comment to each other. For the most part, everyone remained mostly quiet. I even nodded off a couple of times. An hour later and we were finished, drinking herbal tea, and rating our masseuse. Including a generous tip, the massage cost approximately $10. Yes, you read that right…

We pounded around one of the night markets during the evening – just checking things out. Food was abundant at a “food court.” I opted for some Indian food. Dahl (lentils) in curry with garlic naan (flat bread). I think it was about $2.75. After dinner, we found an open-air bar next to the night market that was showing American country music videos from the 90’s and 2000’s. A few rounds of George Straight, Alan Jackson, and Toby Keith later, we grabbed a tuk-tuk and headed back to the hotel. The wife and I grabbed a nightcap up the street from our hotel and then hit the rack. Plenty of touring the local area was scheduled for the next day – temples!

I hope you have enjoyed today’s journal…. Leave a comment (or just a name) if you did! Cheers.

30 October: Lazy Day and Ladyboys

gatornav — Tue, 31 Oct 2017 03:41:00 GMT

After a long day and a later-than anticipated night last night, the decision was made to sleep in. All of us have been waking up too early – time to try to pay back that sleep deficit. It worked. We were all able to sleep in. The plan today was to explore Karon and maybe Kata Beach to the south and then attend a show this evening.

One of our team woke up with some stomach issues and decided to rest. My wife and I went to a familiar street in Karon to look for some fruit. She found some lumyai right away. My wife then checked a tour booking agent on the sidewalk and enquired about the show we wanted to see tonight. We were able to save an additional 40% by going with this agent and booked VIP seats for 4. Hungry, we ventured up a side alley where my wife wound up having a full lunch “snack” up the side alley. On the way back to the room, we dipped our feet in a fish spa for 20 minutes. If you don’t know, that is where several hundred red garra, or “doctor fish” are in a tank. You submerge your feet and the fish basically nibble off the dry skin from your feet and lower legs. Some people say this is risky, but the National Health Service in the UK says the risk for problems is quite low. It tickles like hell when you first put your feet in the tank though…. So there’s that. After the fish spa, we headed back to our room.

I took a short dip in our semi-private pool out the back door while my wife relaxed (and probably dozed from her lunch). Then I took a short walk around the strip to explore some more. Finally, it was about time to head to our show… The world famous, Phuket Simon Cabaret. This is a cabaret show that features some of the most extravagant “ladyboys” dancing in a Vegas-like show and performing musical numbers. If you are interested in what the show looks like, check out their official web site at http://phuket-simoncabaret.com/

We arrived early, settled into the lobby and had a drink. We had VIP seats – if you don’t then you basically have general admission and have to find open seats. So while the doors opened and the throngs of Chinese tourists bum-rushed the theater entrance, we sat calmly and finished our drinks. When the chaos settled, we entered the theater and were ushered to our seats. The show was flashy, colorful, and entertaining. We all enjoyed it quite a bit. Some of these ladyboys would fool you until they open their mouths to speak. They have undergone extensive transformations to look like beautiful women. Little known fact: My wife and I actually had a ladyboy cabaret show at our wedding for the entertainment. So we have been around plenty of them both then and through the years. We heard from a friend that one who had performed at our wedding was now working at Simon…. Couldn’t pick “her” out though.

After the show, all the performers lined up outside for pictures. Our friends got pictures with a number of the performers – capping off a great time had by all at the show. To a person, we would recommend this show if you come to Phuket.

Afterwards, we jumped in a songthaew style tuk-tuk with a Hello Kitty theme that had pop and country music playing as we came back to the hotel. (It would take a paragraph or two just to explain that). Our friends retired for the evening; my wife and I went down the street to get some dinner.

The meal was not what I am used to here in Phuket. The service was extremely attentive (which was great), but perhaps our order-taker was a bit misinformed. I asked if the cashew chicken was Thai or Chinese style, because I wanted Thai style. I was assured that it was. Well…. Wrong! It was bland – very bland. I didn’t make a scene, but when asked, I gave my honest opinion to the server. He offered to take it back, but I told him to bring me some dried red pepper and some nam pic pla (fish sauce, lime juice, chilis), I would make it work. I was really hungry and didn’t want to wait on a re-try. As I looked around and listened to the customer conversations, it became apparent that this restaurant caters to a European crowd – specifically a Russian clientle. So perhaps a little on the bland side suits their palate better. Nothing wrong with that… just don’t sell me on authentic Thai food when it falls short.

After dinner, we came back to pack up. We leave tomorrow for Chiang Mai. My wife and I love Chiang Mai, its people, food, attitude, and historic temples. There’s more good stuff coming over the next week, I can assure you.

Thanks for taking time to read this journal. If you enjoy it, share it with your friends and family. Cheers.

29 October: Monkeying Around in Phang Nga

gatornav — Sun, 29 Oct 2017 23:59:00 GMT

All I can say is, “Wow!” What an incredible day from start to finish. (There was a bump or two along the way, but nothing show stopping). And well, actually the start had me a little bummed as I woke up at 415 am and couldn’t go back to sleep again. But that was okay, I used the extra time to finish yesterday’s journal entry. We hit the breakfast buffet and loaded up on some much-needed energy for the day. Along with our friends, we were ready way ahead of our 730-745 am scheduled pick-up time for today’s excursion.

Today we were taking a tour that would take us into the Andaman Sea up and visit Panak Island, Hong Island, and “James Bond” Island in Phang Nga. We awaited pickup and as the tour vans rolled into our hotel for other excursions, we kept checking with each one. Finally, ours showed up – still within the window of time though. We were the first pickup with numerous others after us. NOTE: If you do these types of excursions, realize there are other people waiting. So be ready and be visible during the pickup window. We had some people today that took our driver 20 minutes to find. After screwing around for a few more minutes, they asked the driver if he could wait and additional 30 minutes. A nearly full van of people sat there waiting. Don’t be that person. The driver left them – justifiably. They caught up by a costly taxi ride later.

This tour company was one my wife and I have used before. Worked out well last year; worked out great this year. The boat departed on time, the crew was great. My Thai wife struck up on conversation with one of them who offered himself and another great crewman to be our kayak guides for us and our friends today. This would prove to be a game changer in the whole day’s experience. At Panak Island, we boarded kayaks with our guides Kai and Bert. Bert spoke great English, so we paired him with our friends so they got that first-class narrative experience throughout. After about 150 meters kayaking, we entered the bat caves of Panak. Yes, bats. This is certainly, “Wear a hat and keep your mouth shut when looking up” territory. The cave structures are amazing, the views are fantastic, and the bats are harmless. With the tides a bit lower at this time, we were able to slide under another opening into a secluded lagoon that is only accessible by that cave opening. We almost got in there last year but the tide was about 8 inches too high. Not so today. What a spectacle of nature! Inside a limestone mountain -- in a lagoon. Simply incredible.

Our next stop was Hong Island. Well, this would prove to be the day’s highlight. Again, along with our friends we set launch of the kayaks with our guides Kai and Bert. As we wove through the lagoon, again the limestone scenery was breathtaking. We headed for a cave tunnel that would take us to another lagoon. Upon exiting the tunnel, we noticed monkeys – I believe they were crab-eating macaques – on some of the outcroppings in the lagoon. Well, one of them recognized our guide, Kai. The monkey jumped in the water, swam to the boat, and just like that -- we had a third passenger. Turns out, this monkey knows Kai rather well, and he was rewarded with a couple of small bananas. (Kai says his name is Bert.) The monkey explored the kayak, checking us out. He then launched himself through the air over to visit our friends’ kayak as well. Then back over to ours. After about 8-10 minutes with us, he ejected himself off the kayak, back to the island. What an experience! Up close and personal. No, we didn’t touch, pet, or otherwise interfere with the monkey. That’s key. Let them do what they do, be protective of your stuff, show no fear – but respect that you are among a wild animal that is checking you out.

Another lagoon….. another monkey. This one recognized Kai as well. There was just one problem… “Yes, we have no bananas!” Out of bananas. But that didn’t stop our little friend from making sure that Kai wasn’t hiding any under his butt – or anywhere else for that matter. The monkey groped and probed Kai – we all had a great laugh as this went on for some time. Back into the tunnel, the monkey became a hood ornament on the front of the kayak. When he got to the front of the tunnel, he launched himself to the limestone ledge.

These episodes were captured on still cameras as well as video. We had such a great time. The experience exceeded what the tour intended. So incredible.

Our next stop was “James Bond Island.” Turns out, this is where part of film, “Man with the Golden Gun,” was filmed. It is part of the national park and there is a famous limestone karst jutting up from the lagoon. It really is beautiful. We took many photos – and Kai helped us compose some of them too. While we were only there for 30 minutes, it was a beautiful day as far as the weather was concerned that afforded great photographs.

On the way back to the home marina, we passed by where native Thai sea hawks hunt. The crew knows how to beckon them and entice them with fish. First there were two, then five, then eleven, then over twenty of these birds, soaring, swooping, and picking up the fish left behind. I had just completed a lens change on my still camera – the pictures turned out great. Like most birds of prey, they were quite majestic in flight.

As we pulled into port, the thunder started booming. Light rain fell as we disembarked and walked to the van. Then once we were inside, the skies opened up. Minor flooding in the roadways as we headed back to Karon Beach. It can happen quickly here, so be ready. Our driver was, thankfully.

Tonight we went to the same restaurant as last night. The food was excellent before. And since it was raining, why not? Why go looking for something different in the rain. The menu is lengthy at this place, so we went for dishes we haven’t had this week. First came the squid with a peppercorn sauce. The peppercorns were in the sauce – I ate so many of them. I love black pepper and as they had just been stir fried in soya, they were even more delicious. Local green mussels – steamed with basil – was another new addition and so tasty when set alongside fresh grilled corn on the cob. The trophy dish was a deep-fried white snapper covered in a semi-sweet hot chili sauce (not the dipping sauce). Plenty of chilies adorned the fish. All of the dishes did not fail to impress – all very delicious.

What an incredible day. These are the experiences you hope to have on vacation. Times to remember with people who mean so much to you.

It has been a very long day, but I hope you enjoy the story. If you did, please leave a comment – even if just your name so I know who is stopping by. Thanks.

Gotta hit the rack now….Cheers.

28 October -- Headed to Phuket!

gatornav — Sat, 28 Oct 2017 22:30:00 GMT

Today was mostly a travel and transition day. Leisurely breakfast at the hotel started the day. I haven’t mentioned that our hotel was the Galleria 12 Sukhumvit. Overall, a nice place to stay, and we were able to get some great deals online for the room – breakfast included. We had arranged for a taxi to the Don Mueang Airport in Bangkok. This is the older, but refurbished airport that mostly handles domestic and low-cost regional international traffic. Our carrier, Air Asia, flies out of here. Traffic was surprisingly light, so we had plenty of time at the airport to get checked in and relax. The flight to Phuket was on-time and smooth. We landed at Phuket and after some negotiations with some local drivers were able to get a ride to our hotel. He took the longer, yet faster route – that basically doubled as a nice island driving tour. The scenery here couldn’t be any more different than Bangkok.

Checked into our hotel. Room is clean and efficient and just across the street from the beach. We hit the strip to find a tour and travel agent to book our boat trip to “James Bond Island,” and other sites tomorrow. Basically this is the boat tour that will take us kayaking into caves and get us up close to the limestone karsts that are one of the hallmarks of Phuket.

We were able to find the tour we wanted at the price we wanted – quick and easy. Lesson learned from last year… use the tour services on the strip. We paid more by going through the tour service at the mom-and-pop hotel last year.

Then strolling down the strip, we found delicious fresh seafood on display. My wife chatted it up with one of the hostesses that were beckoning people to the restaurant. The young lady told my wife she could get the “Thai price.” Well, that did it. It was on like freakin’ Donkey Kong. Squid, lobster, clams, a whole lotta shrimp, and probably as much garlic later – I think we were there for two and a half hours. Plenty of ice-cold Singha beer in the “combat bottles,” were consumed. Following dinner, a walk down the sidewalk to find desert – mango and sticky rice. We didn’t have to go far. Simply delicious.

Getting a bit late, back to the hotel. Early rise for the boat trip tomorrow. That’s going to do it for today!

27 October; The Jim Thompson Experience

gatornav — Fri, 27 Oct 2017 22:30:00 GMT

The highlight of today was touring the home of the famous Jim Thompson in Bangkok. While I have spent a lot of time in Bangkok, I have always wanted to come here, but never had the time.

Mr. Thompson’s story is a very interesting and lengthy tale. So, I'll offer a summary. Jim Thompson was an officer in the Office of Strategic Services – which is the predecessor of the CIA and the U.S. Special Operations Command. Mr. Thompson joined the OSS as WWII was ending, but was posted in Bangkok to monitor developments in SE Asia. His love for Thailand grew. Through his efforts, the Thai silk industry flourished globally. Mr. Thompson assembled a beautiful home from historic timbers and filled it with some of the best artwork from SE Asia. In 1967, while staying with friends in the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia, Jim Thompson went for a walk in the wilderness. He never came back. There was no trace of him. There was no evidence of a struggle, tiger attack, or anything. Gone. To this day, it is an unsolved mystery. Tour guides to the home never refer to Mr. Thompson's "death," only his "disappearance." His home became part of a foundation that exists today in Thailand and operates a museum and tribute to Mr. Thompson. It’s hard to tell his story in a few paragraphs. Therefore, I highly recommend the book, “The Ideal Man,” by Joshua Kurlantzick if you are ever looking for a solid book to read on Mr. Thompson’s life, his revival of the Thai silk industry, and the mystery around his disappearance.

In the afternoon, we rode went back to our favorite food court at Siam Center and got a snack. Later, we walked Sukhimvit road extensively and found a place to have dinner in the evening. We hung out for a happy hour in the room together and then headed out to dinner. We found our way to Via Vai Italian Restaurant on Sukhumvit Soi 8. However, we decided to have Thai food there. It was really delicious. The steamed white snapper with lime sauce was incredible. The Penang curry was great too. There were many people enjoying Italian, so we may have to try this again at another time for that fare.

All in all, a real solid day in Bangkok as we get ready for the next stop….. Karon Beach in Phuket.

26 October Summary; Somber Day, Great Dinner

gatornav — Fri, 27 Oct 2017 04:25:00 GMT

Today was a somber day for the Thai people as it marked the funeral of beloved King Bhumibol Adulyadej. The world’s largest standing monarch and known as largely to the people as “The Father of Thailand,” the city of Bangkok represented the center of mourning for his funeral. Out of respect, banks were closed, many shops shuttered, and alcohol was not served. We showed our respect by wearing all black and dark colors and trying to blend the best with the locals and not be the “ugly farangs.” Actually that’s really hard for my wife as she’s Thai….

After catching up on sleep to combat jet lag, we ventured out and found a decent lunch at a coffee shop at a nearby hotel. Afterwards, we caught the sky train to Central Bangkok. The train was crowded as public transportation was free today due to the funeral and people going to alternate viewing areas.

Since my longer story dumped on me, I’ll summarize….basically due to rain and closures, we spent time walking around Siam Center and MBK malls near Central Bangkok. We had some ice cream, bought some snacks for the room, and walked about 6 miles around the city today. The good thing about the weather was it wasn’t really hot, which helped at dinner later. After making our way back to the hotel, we were joined by family from the northern part of Bangkok.

Cabbages & Condoms. Yep, that’s where we had dinner – a condom-themed restaurant. Started by a former public official years ago – it was originally intended to raise money for HIV awareness and prevention. They now continue to work family planning issues as part of a larger non-governmental organization. The organization was recognized by the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation and awarded $1M for their efforts. The ambience in the outside garden part of the restaurant is outstanding. Lot of plants, lights, lanterns – yes, some of the lanterns are made from condoms. There is a gift shop on the way out. The service is great, the food was outstanding, and the setting was extremely unique. A great time was had by all family and friends that joined us.

Photos: Thailand 17

gatornav — Thu, 26 Oct 2017 12:05:00 GMT

20th Anniversary Trip

Flight Recap and 26 October Plans

gatornav — Thu, 26 Oct 2017 11:00:00 GMT

International flying can always be challenging. Some itinerary changes a few months ago created a 6+ hour layover in Detroit for us. I was able to convince Delta airlines to give us miles to buy our way into the SkyClub lounge. This was a good move and made the time pass easier. The flights for the most part were uneventful. Once at Seoul/Inchon we experienced a 45-minute delay, but the airline made up the time on the following 6+ hour flight to Bangkok. Immigrations and customs went smoothly; bags were readily available at the luggage claim. For our party of 4, we decided to get a taxi van. The kiosk for the taxi van was empty and the screen appeared frozen. After staring at it for several minutes and unable to interact with it, "someone" hit the reset button. About 30 seconds later, a furious attendant appeared out of nowhere and scolded the individual in an emotional performance that displayed the "jai rawn" that is not desirable in public. Shocking to say the least, as this behavior is frowned upon by the culture. The situation resolved itself in about 2 minutes. So was it really a big deal? No. It begged the question, where was that attendant to help with the kiosk in the first place? Maybe sitting down somwhere and texting friends on LINE. So a word to the wise. Don't try to fix it yourself. Perhaps draw attention and see if someone appears from the shadows to assist.

The cab ride was uneventful. The driver was safe and courteous. That has been my experience in this city on numerous occassions with the taxis that are available at the airport. No funny business on the fare -- all straightforward.

The hotel for our stay in Bangkok was a bit farther down the Sukhumvit Soi 12 than the map had indicated when I booked the room. However the staff is nice, the rooms are clean and comfortable, and we are fairly centrally located. We ventured out early in the morning after arrival -- really the middle of the night. As it is the day of the King's funeral, many places had already shut down for the next few days. We were hungry and just needed a bite to eat. No street stalls open -- could have gone for some noodle soup. So instead we were relegated to Subway. Quick bite, stop by 7-11 for a few basics, and back to the room for some sleep.

Out of respect for the King, today will be a quiet day in Bangkok -- and throughout the Kingdom. So we will simply go on a walk-about to show our traveling friends a bit of the City of Angels -- a city they have never seen. Later, some of my wife's relatives will join us for dinner. While this day's plan probably doesn't sound too exciting, it is just what we need to recharge a bit and yet show our respect to the Thai people.

Time to get ready for this afternoon's activities.....

Twas the Night Before....Departure

gatornav — Mon, 23 Oct 2017 11:13:00 GMT

It's here. Finally. I used to travel internationally for work almost every month years ago. Not anymore. My trips are the exception, not the norm. So when I travel now, it is for my wife and I -- and in this case, some great friends coming along as well. When you wait for a departure for 8 months, it can get a bit nerve-racking. Once we get out of the house and on the travel trail, uncertainties don't bother me. Surprises and changes are what make travel more interesting. A few hours sleep tonight and then it's on for the next 2+ weeks. So much of the world to see....I should do this full time. Maybe someday. Another adventure starts tomorrow.... Come along.