'Cos we're leaving on a jet plane

The End of this Chapter

felix_and_stephanie — Fri, 21 Mar 2008 14:30:00 GMT

Home sweet home!!…. After traveling for the past 5 months, we are now back full circle… It’s hard to believe that we are finally back home though! It’s kind of bitter sweet, because it’s great to finally be home… with all the comforts we are used to… but at the same time, come to the realization that our EPIC ASIA TRIP, our 6 MONTH honeymoon is actually OVER!

But I am damn proud to say “We did it!” Yep… we really did it! Felix and I really backpacked for 6 months! A year ago today, I had butterflies in my stomach, waiting anxiously for my meeting with my manager, to broach the very prospect of taking such a trip. Both Felix and I will forever be indebted to our manager’s for giving us this incredible opportunity to go outside of our comfort zone, and experience the World firsthand. I think we are both changed people as a result. I know we will always think back fondly to this trip, in the decades to come.

I encourage anyone to do a trip like this…. You will thank me for it! I guarantee it! Maybe 6 months is not for everyone, but even if you can get away for one month to just travel and see the world. Life is about Experience. Staying within your comfort zone is not living to your full potential! I know it’s harsh… but you gotta do it, I tell you!

You will also be very proud to know that after 6 months, 24/7, Felix and I are still not sick of each other! I guess those 6 months was a true test to our relationship… and I know this will make some of you gag… but if we can survive this trip… I think we are in it for the long haul! =) And to answer everyone’s question of… “Did we fight a LOT?” Surprisingly, we didn’t… I can’t say how we did it, but by some weird twist of fate, we really seriously compliment each other. I scratch my head now and think… how did I get so lucky…?! If I was traveling with anyone else, I think I might be sporting a black eye now. ;)

It’s really hard to believe that we are finally at the end of our trip. After visiting 10 countries, and 30+ destinations, how can I adequately describe the impact of this experience on my life. Just sitting here, and reflecting back to the last 6 months, there is just a flood of memories, sensations, and experiences…that I will never be able to capture on paper. I again… encourage, you to experience it for yourself!

The number one thing I have learned is… “to not take things for granted.” Now I know this sounds a little cliché, and I even said this from time to time before I took this trip, but now, I have really come to realize what we REALLY have. The next time I come across an obstacle or a challenge and get stressed out, I hope I will first think… “Is this really worth the emotional turmoil?!” and “Is this worth all the stress?!” All the things I would potentially face are now just so mundane i.e. I have raccoons in the roof or property tax is due again, or my car needs to get fixed etc (PS Pam and Andrea… for your sake, as part of our travels I wish I could have ate Raccoon! Just to get revenge for you… BTW Japanese raccoons are really CUTE! Not like the North American Road Kill!)

In our travels, at least for me, I had a lot of time to reflect, and it all boiled down to the things that I treasured in life. Surprisingly the things I cherish the most, are ‘immaterial.’ You cannot put a dollar value to them. For example, my family who give us unconditional love, or our health, or the rock solid friendship’s that we have… the last couple months has taught me that I have a King’s ransom in the those three fundamental things! Can I get any luckier! Funny, how it took 6 months of backpacking to come to this realization.

Life is in constant motion, and at any given time, that perfect balance could be shifted, to the right or …to the left. But to maintain the mindset of appreciating what you already have, will make you more content with your life. In simple terms… Happier! ;)

Our last two weeks in Hong Kong was literally a whirlwind of activity... poignant memories that stick out:

- Spending time with my Aboo! My grandma is 94… and been a widow for over 20 years, but she still misses my grandfather soooo much. To still be so in love, and miss her husband so much, it just warms my heart!

- Being invited to my friend’s homes for home cooked meals. There is nothing that makes me happier then going to a friend’s house and taking our time eating damn good food and enjoying each other’s company! Freeman, Eli, Dai Car, Ah B, Jeff and Jackie… I have definitely ranked each of your home cooked meals as the TOP MEALS in HK! ;p You guys mean the world to me…. always know that!

- Spending quality time with my cousin’s Elaine and Melissa…! You girls rock! It was awesome to finally hang out! Elaine… I am so proud of you for going to Cambodia… Can you now understand how in awe I am with that country! =)

- Coming to the realization that I don’t have to be in constant contact with old friends to still maintain a strong bond. For so many of the old friends I got back in touch with… its like no time had passed, even though for some, a decade had passed since we last spoke. Suzanne, Wendy, Florence, Tracy, Jeff Tam, Katherine … I am so happy we have what we have!

- Seeing the patience that my grandfather (on my dad’s side) shows for my grandma. My granny doesn’t have very good short term memory anymore, and will repeatedly ask the same questions. To see my grandfather who sometimes has a quick temper show so much patience, and not get frustrated with her, it humbles me.

- For enjoying personalized food tours of Hong Kong on Carmen and Ah B’s day’s off…. And also having Carmen feed me hearty doses of painful honesty… that ONLY she can get away with it! =) We make such an unlikely pair.. but for some weird reason, it feels so right! And for the record… I could never be friends with someone that you hate too! ;p Thank you for always thinking of us, and making us feel so at home! PS I love Ah B!

- Being pampered and spoilt at a luxurious spa with a full body massage and facial courtesy of Freeman and Eli. These guys really know how to do things right, and they treated us to an amazing day at the spa as an end to our trip. Felix who hates being touched… loved being groomed at this slice of heaven on earth! You guys really shouldn’t have showered us with such a decadent gift! Thank you!

This trip would not have been possible if it weren’t for key people in our lives who made it all possible … we would like to sincerely thank….

- Our manager’s who let us take this leave of absence, even despite the challenges of backfilling us while we were gone. Who also didn’t even ask any questions or make us feel guilty, but supported us whole heartedly.

- Our co-worker/friends, who picked up our workload while we were gone, and made this whole entire trip possible. (Special thanks to Ellen, Dave B, and Justin.) I owe you guys big time!

- Our families and friends who were super supportive through the whole process, and keeping the emails coming to keep my homesickness at bay! (Esp, Adrienne, Lauranna, Ivy, and Jaime.)

- Sumit/Will/Robyn, for being the inspiration for this trip! We ‘heart’ backpacking, and don’t think we will do it any differently on future adventures! Felix says its guest houses all the way… he wouldn’t do a 5 star hotel if he had a choice! ;p

I cannot think of a better way for us to start our lives together…. Thank you for giving us an incredible start to our lives together!! We are happy to be home… and looking fwd to getting back into a routine… ;)

Gallery: Taipei with Mama Sin

felix_and_stephanie — Fri, 29 Feb 2008 15:25:00 GMT

Taiwan

Taipei Tour with Mama Sin

felix_and_stephanie — Fri, 29 Feb 2008 15:02:00 GMT

Malaysia, and Singapore move over, because Taiwan is some stiff competition when it comes to culinary delights! It’s all about street eats here, and if you’re a little squeamish, or obsessive about cleanliness, this is not the trip for you.

Our last stop before H.K, and this time, the famous Mama Sin accompanied us! The awesome thing is that my mom speaks Mandarin, and knows what’s good to eat! ;) This was basically an eating tour … and good thing is that my mom knows her stuff!

First stop was Shilin Night Market. When we arrived, it immediately brought back memories of when I was in Taipei, almost 10 years ago. I have fond memories of the night market, and Maris with her freshly roasted squid, and Jaime bargaining for her grey pants, (that she still has TODAY!) I even saw the Starbucks that started Maris’s worldwide mug collection. (PS I got you Singapore!) Shilin was ranked one of the best markets that Felix has visited.

The day we arrived was Chinese Valentine’s Day, and wouldn’t you know it… it’s a much bigger deal then the Hallmark manufactured holiday! We arrived at Shilin Night Market to fireworks, and firecrackers… all the stores were making offerings to Choy Sun, the God of fortune, and half naked men with body tattoos were dancing in a trancelike motion, over the crackling firecrackers. A bit insane if you ask me, I can’t exactly explain the whole ritual… but my mom said.. and please take this with a grain of salt, but she said they were possessed, something to do with the ritual of bringing luck to the stores. But then again, as many of you know my mama… she has this habit of feeding me stories that she makes up… all the time. Why do you think I turned out the way I did!

We were not disappointed at the market and had our share of Stinky Tofu, Deep Fried Chicken steaks, and the most expensive corn ever! It cost $4 USD, and my mom was sadly disappointed… it was turned on a spit for 5 minutes with a smorgasbord of sauces until it was bubbling. I also had my first authentic bubble tea, when my mom tried it, her first reaction was to scrunch up her face, and then relax and say “Not Bad!” (Family joke)

I also challenged my mom to a video game of beating the Japanese Taiko drums and would you believe that she actually BEAT me! ;p Alex…. I put you to shame!

The next morning, we went to the National Palace Museum… and this place has certainly come a long way since I last visited. I would have to say its one of the better museums that we have been to during our travels. We of course went to see the most popular exhibit.. the Jade Bok Choy, and the Jade Slab of Pork, but I think the most fun, my mom had was feeding the fish in the Royal garden. We went through 4-5 packs of fish food, cause she had was on a quest to feed the biggest fish… but couldn’t compete with the little ones cause he was so slow and bulky.

No visit to Taiwan is complete without visiting Circle K! Sadly all my favorite foods that I lived on when I was last in Taiwan, ie popsicles, were discontinued! However,… Maris, you will be happy to know… they still have fresh sushi! My mom went as far as to say I couldn’t walk down the street without going into a 7/11 … but I love these stores!

One thing I did not know when I was last in Taiwan was that it is famed for its bookstores. My dad raved about this new upscale bookstore called “Eslite,” where it is open for 24 hours, and carries anything and everything! We were not disappointed… Move over Chapters! because for book lovers, this book store is amazing! My mom didn’t want to leave, until her belly wouldn’t stop growling, and we had to go for some food. She left with 6 books, and she finished 3 of them before we left Taiwan. (PS the trip was only 4 days!) That is also where I get my bookwormish qualities from!

After staying on $15-20 USD hotels, it was nice to stay in a REAL hotel….with your own sheets and towels… BUT would you believe that for 2 nights in a row, we heard scratching in the walls. They were RATS! BIG FAT RATS were living in the ducts! Thankfully after 10 minutes they scampered to another duct and left us to sleep in peace.

I think this trip has taught me to “Let go”… after having rats eating at my feet, frisky neighbors, no bed sheets… I can sleep anywhere now… as long as there are no bed bugs! ;P

It was a really awesome trip to spend with my Moola… and of course you know she’s really comfortable with her new son in law… when they gang up on ME! Why oh why am I always the victim! =) I think my mother’s only complaint was that Felix and I liked to frequent the local restaurants. In local, I mean a hole in the wall, or literally a chair at a stall in the street! But honestly, these are the places where you can get the BEST food!

The one and only restaurant we went to was the famed “Ting Tai Fung.” We have a Ting Tai Fung in T.O as well… but it is from Taiwan that this Siu Long Bao place originated from! It was the perfect consistency wrapper with hot pork broth and a succulent filling. YUM! Sadly… I thought after 6 months on the road, I would be svelte and slim… HOWEVER no one told me that all the countries we visited the food would be soooo GOOD! Body Combat full steam ahead when I come back!

Saaba Di - Luang Prabang - Laos

felix_and_stephanie — Mon, 25 Feb 2008 21:42:00 GMT

Luang Prabang, Laos, to Bangkok, Thailand.

Luang Prabang is like a breath of fresh air. Just saying the name gives you a certain sense of pleasure. Say it with me… “Loh-ang proh-BAHNG.”

During our travels, when talking to fellow travellers about our next destination, we had heard really positive things. Many have said that a couple days is not enough, and that you could easily stay here for weeks. Now we know why! It’s not cause there is a ton to do in this little patchwork town of French Colonial meets Traditional Laos. It just has this very comforting feeling when you arrive here, like drinking a cup of hot tea on a cold winter day. And those that know me… know I am all about comfort! I like to be “Shuu Fok.”

It’s such an enchanting little town, quaint ‘lil boutiques with Laos handicrafts and cafes with a really good cuppa joe. (I still think I prefer western style coffee to the local brew. I can’t get used to sieving the grounds through my teeth.) When you walk down the street, you see little french buildings with shuttered windows, and traditional wooden huts, just a mix mash of different cultures. The pace is slow and extremely relaxed. Anyone who wants a break from the craziness should come here and stay in one of the little guest houses that have all the comforts of home, and just enjoy watching the world turn.

I was finally able to unleash my shopping power, since it was the 2^nd last stop before going back to HK, and I could finally afford the space in my trusty pack. And the night markets were definitely not a disappointment. Everyone was super friendly, even during the bartering process… and we all walked away happy from the transaction! (Which is certainly a change, because for most of my time in Vietnam, I knew I was being taken for a ride, but when you travel, those are the consequences you have to deal with.)

We visited the many Wats, and were not disappointed by the exquisiteness of the architecture. Detailed mosaics and murals of life of Buddha covered the outside of the temples in different shades of turquoises, aubergine, and chartreuse. I wish I could have imported that wall into my house. Gold plated roofs and monks hurrying to their next destination. I wondered where they were all hurrying to? It was not until later, that we found out that monks are just like normal people and go to school, to friends house, their homes, to the temples… monks ride motorcycles, monks use the Internet, monks have cell phones. It’s really kinda cool to see that!

We also took part in the alms giving at 6 am in the morning, where every morning, the monks venture out onto the streets to collect food donations for the day. There are lines of monks from oldest to youngest, and they have this bronze container that you give your offerings in. Most people give a dollop of sticky rice. There are these waves of different lines of monks from different Wat's, lining up on the side of the road to receive their offerings. Felix and I again, felt like asshole tourists because everyone was hording around to take photos of the monks. Its seems like such a sacred ritual. I also read somewhere that some of the locals have tried to profit from this ritual by selling tainted food to tourists for the offerings, and have in the process made the monks sick. Again… so very wrong, therefore we refrained from the actual food offering ritual.

We also visited the infamous Buddha caves…. after an incredibly freezing 2 hour boat ride. The caves is filled with thousand of different shape and sized Buddhas. Apparently when a temple Buddha is too worn to be used, they move the statue to this cave. What you see is Buddha’s that range from a couple feet to a couple centimetres, all clustered on every flat surface.

I also tried the traditional Lao massage… which unfortunately was not relaxing. She contorted my body into really strange shapes, and at one point, she sat on my butt and just kneaded my back.. which was slightly weird. She also started picking at my motorcycle scab at one point, which made me a little uncomfortable. Afterwards… I found about 6 bites on my neck… I hate to think what was on that bed! Eek… but then again… what can you expect for $4USD. =)

Felix and I stayed in Luang Prabang for 5 days, and really enjoyed ourselves, despite the bitter cold. COLD?! Yep… it was flipping cold in the North of Lao… a big difference from the tank top and shorts weather we had experienced up until that point. =) I was bundled in fleece, scarves, and gortex! I know! I know! You guys have it a whole lot worse in Toronto, but who would have thought it would be so cold in Laos.

We then ended this 2 month leg, in Bangkok, Thailand. We made it back full circle. It was like we were thrown back into reality. Pollution, cars, trucks and buses everywhere, high rise buildings and lots and lots of people. It was hard to figure out how to cross the street again. Felix and I literally shopped until we dropped… and ate until we had Buddha bulges…. Ok.. fine! I ate until I had a spare tire… and you know Felix… he can eat whatever and still look like a stick of celery! I wish I had his genes… but hey… we’re in the food capital of the world. Siam Paragon was our home base for most of our meals! ;)

Next stop Taiwan….and then its back to reality. I feel like I am in a time warp now… and everything is going in fast fwd…. only 3 weeks left before we come home. How can it be?

We only just started………(Dave B ... you were so right!)

New Videos Up

felix_and_stephanie — Wed, 20 Feb 2008 15:27:00 GMT

We finally had a chance to upload some more videos:

1) CROSSING THE ROAD IN HCMC

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EfnBRPuYw9s

2) BUMPY RIDE TO FLOATING MARKET

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8Tkt5Npc98

3) GREETINGS FROM ANGKOR WAT

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nOXYpOUSBOI

4) GREETINGS FROM LUANG PRABANG

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHEwhZeLRuQ

5) PANDAS

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYZjVO8LX5Y

6) DANCING QUEEN

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MnxVe413wsk

Where is Steph??

felix_and_stephanie — Mon, 18 Feb 2008 21:15:00 GMT

As we were waiting for the sun to set at Ankor Wat, Steph decides to step into the crowd and play "Where's Waldo?". See if you can spot her!

P.S. Please be sure to check out the latest additions to the "OUR FAVOURITE PICS" photo gallery (found on the right hand margin).

Gallery: Luang Prabang

felix_and_stephanie — Mon, 18 Feb 2008 20:39:00 GMT

Luang Prabang, Laos

Gallery: Angkor Wat

felix_and_stephanie — Mon, 18 Feb 2008 20:12:00 GMT

Ankor Wat, Siem Reap

Gallery: Phnom Penh

felix_and_stephanie — Mon, 18 Feb 2008 20:09:00 GMT

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Vientiane, Vang Vieng, Laos

felix_and_stephanie — Mon, 11 Feb 2008 23:48:00 GMT

Laos... oh my goodness Laos. I thought Cambodia was good... but Laos is a whole different world... Now I know why Robyn said you could spend months in this place. The clock is ticking and we have only 8 days left, and I feel like we don't have enough time in this country. We started in Vientiane, and unfortunately, after so much constant travel, it took its toll on Felix... we explored the city core, but decided to take it easy and have an off day where we could just catch up on sleep. We took a 6 hour bus ride to Vang Vieng, which is a little backpacker town, and its so laid back and chill. Adrienne.. you would LOVE this place! Yesterday, Felix, and I, and our new friend Wendy from Holland decided to just explore the city by town by foot. We soon found out that you could walk from one end to the next in about 15 minutes. It is such a friendly place, everywhere you go... the locals smile and shout out "Sabaa Di!" (which is Hi in Laosian??!!) We stopped by one of the little stalls for some beverages and the store owner ended up teaching us Laos phrases for 20 minutes. At one point, he even plopped his baby in my lap cause he wanted to grab a chair and get more comfortable. What a moment!

We took it very easy the first day... and it was actually a little surreal, because we were exploring the town centre and decided to grab dinner and found a couple of restaurants that have a very interesting set up. The dining area is a platform, all set up with a mat and comfy pillows and a little table... and you can basically just lounge for hours! Guess what we watched for 2 hours! "Friends! I was watching the last couple episodes of the last season of "Friends", in Laos. ""How weird is that!" All the restaurants here also have a penchant for Bob Marley and Jack Johnson, so you can imagine just how relaxed this place is!

The next day, we decided that we'd rent bikes so that we could cover more ground. One of the must see's in Vang Vieng is the caves, so we pedalled for a couple of hours.. (to be honest, the spinning classes did nada for me... my legs are like lead now!) and went exploring. Now on this trip, we have definitely done our fair share of caves, from Guilin, to Halong Bay, but this takes it to a whole new level. Picture this... we had to bike for about 30 minutes on the bumpiest road, then trek through the brush and then scale a cliff... literally... (Blian and AA, you'd love the rock climbing here!). Thankfully we had a guide cause otherwise we would have gotten seriously LOST!

Our guide was this little boy who was maybe 10 and didn't really speak English... but Felix and him just hit it off right away. The whole time they were making mating calls by whistling through their hands. The kid had the nerve to laugh at my attempt! Now I have a new mission to learn how to whistle! So we finally get to this little opening on the side of the mountain, and the kid leads us in! We step in, and its PITCH DARK! (I guess all the caves we visited before were tourist traps cause they were all lit with colourful lights and had a paved road!) Thank goodness we had a flash light, cause there is no way we could have gone more then 3 meters. He brought us to the different caverns, and we still had to scale up and down through the little tunnels, all very much in its natural state with no enhancements what so ever. It would have been so much scarier if we didn't have this kid, cause he seriously knew his way through. The kid must have taken a liking to us... or maybe he does this for all the tourist, but inside the cave, he drew 4 pictures, to represent each of us, and made us sign it! Such a poignant moment! On the way back, he set off for the main road by foot, and Felix, the sweetie decided to offer the kid a ride on the back of his bike. He didn't even hesitate and swung his leg over and got ready for the ride back! I wish I got a picture of that!

The next cave we visited was insane... it claimed it was only 500 meters away... but we pedaled forever, and mostly uphill! Felix of course had to prove to me that by getting a mountain bike with gears, it was that much easier then my regular bike. For the record... despite the difficulty, I had a "basket" on my bike! We finally get to the cave, and find to our delight there was a little fresh water pool.... sooooo refreshing! We met these Italian guys who said the caves were so worth it, despite it being super slippery. So in we went... and thankfully we met a guide in the pitch darkness of the cave. This man had hands of sandpaper... I have never touched human skin this rough! (Again, re-emphasizing the point how privileged a life we lead.) At one point as I was climbing up a bamboo ladder, and saw hordes of bugs in the lamplight... I thought they were spiders. I also had to take deep breaths. But the guide said that they were locusts and that they were good to eat fried. I'll take his word for it!" This cave was insane... there was multiple chambers, but again pitch dark, and the floor was super slippery. If you're a little claustrophobic... this activity is not recommended.

The next day, we did as all do, when you visit Vang Vieng, which is to tube down the Nam Song River! If the weather was better it would have been very relaxing... but it was overcast, and after about 3 hours of floating, my finger tips and feet had lost sensation, but still 100% worth it. There are bars set up along the river edge where you can stop and have a cold beverage as well as just hang out and chill. =) Adrienne and Blian the Lion... you'd LOVE this place too.

(I seriously think you guys would LOVE this country!)

After tubing, we found a bar by the water edge and just hung out in hammocks and watched the sun set! That is totally my idea to the perfect end to a day in Laos.

I thought Vang Vieng was beautiful... but Luang Prabang is even better. They are both so different, yet only 8 hours by car separate them. Vang Vieng is more backpackerish and simple... where as Luang Prabang is sophisticated with charm. We have only been here for two days... but I think I could spend a week here!

Til next time, my friends. =)

BTW Off topic, but Felix and I were talking about the highlights of the last leg, and if you want a taste, we recomment the following itinerary... Bangkok, Thailand then Luang Prabang, Laos, Vang Vieng, Vientiane, Siem Reap, Cambodia, Phnom Penh, and then back to Thailand, and finish with the beaches. I guarantee this would be the trip of a lifetime. Guys, start saving!

Gallery: Vang Vieng, Laos

felix_and_stephanie — Sat, 9 Feb 2008 00:19:00 GMT

Baldy

Gallery: Nha Trang, HCMC

felix_and_stephanie — Fri, 8 Feb 2008 23:56:00 GMT

Baldy

felix_and_stephanie — Thu, 7 Feb 2008 21:26:00 GMT

So here I am at the internet store, catching up in my email.... and Felix decides to go for a stroll in Vang Vieng, which is this little town about 4 hours outside of Vientiane. 15 minutes goes by... and he walks back in...

BALD!

I am still sitting here in shock!

My husband is a baldy! an eggie! an egg head! All he needs is an orange tunic, and he'd really fit in with the monks here.

Can you believe my husband is a EGGY?

PS Check out the barber shop he got it in, this hair cut cost him $3!

Cambodia

felix_and_stephanie — Tue, 5 Feb 2008 21:34:00 GMT

Get a cup of coffee and a cookie... this is going to be a long one... I have sooo much to say!

Felix and I both agree.... that this country has been one of the highlights on our entire trip of SE Asia.It is most definitely a MUST SEE, and if possible, everyone must come here at least once in their lifetime.I have never felt so strongly about a place, especially having now visited 7 countries on this trip, if you come, you'd see for yourself why, and understand the connection and the love I have for this country.

It has evoked so many intense emotions for us, and from complete different ends of the continuum. It's so hard to even put into words.... from something as pure and simple as seeing a smile on a child's face when giving them a candy, to the first sight we had of Angkor Wat, whizzing by on our tuk tuk, it honestly took my breath away, to the intense heaviness I felt in my heart when I went to the Killing Fields and the Tuol Sleng Museum. I have never in my life felt that kind of weight, it was almost suffocating....

We started in Phnom Penh, and visited all the key sites ie the Royal Palace, the Silver Pagoda, the National Museum, Wat Phnom. The city itself is nothing spectacular, but it was my first try of Khmer Cuisine... can everyone just say "YUM!" Why can't we get Khmer food in T.O? We decided to put off the heavy stuff, ie the Killing Fields and the Tuol Sleng Museum until we came back from Sihanouk Ville, which is Cambodia's beaches. It was a nice break from all the tours and sites, and we managed to recharge our batteries. To be honest, I was really dreading the latter tour, having read "First they Killed my Father," by Loung Ung which is about one little girl's survival during the Khmer Rouge Regime. The brutality and the suffering ... no words can describe the our EVIL and horror. I was very apprehensive about this particular visit, but I knew we HAD go, just for the reason of learning and understanding.

The Killing Fields is like no place I have ever been before... the first thing you see is this tower of glass with shelves upon shelves of 8000 skulls. They were split into groups of age and sex, and that just drove it to another level for me. I just felt this heavy pressure on my heart the entire time I was there, and this buzzing in my ears... Felix and I couldn't even speak to each other on the tuk tuk ride back to the city. What we just saw was weighing on our minds, and to imagine people coming by the truckloads to face their fate of being executed. They even had this tree where they hung this speaker, to try and muffle the screams of people being executed. I couldn't even walk by that tree. I was so sickened to my stomach.... 17,000 people were executed here with no rhyme or reason, except for the fact that they were either educated, wore glasses, worked for the government, had lighter skin...whatever the Khmer Rouge were threatened by. To think this only happened 30 years ago. Right as we were leaving, this man asked if we wanted to shoot a gun... "WHAT KIND OF A SERIOUSLY SICK PERSON would want to do this after going to the Killing Fields??!!" I don't get it?!

Afterwards we went to the Tuol Sleng Museum, which is where the S21 did their interrogations and torture. I really can't describe the feeling I had here, other then pure sorrow for the people who suffered here. I could feel tears prickling at my eyelids... to see all these pictures of those who were housed at this EVIL place. When I went into the rooms where there was a single metal bed frame with some metal rods, clamps and boxes, and a grainy picture to depict how the tortures took place, I was extremely disturbed by these images, and couldn't even walk into some of these rooms. We did not take any photographs of either place, because to me, its a form of respect. To see some people taking pictures at the Killing Fields and the museum.... it just didn't sit right with me. "People died here! Have some sympathy!" Needless to say, Felix and I had a lot to think about, and just how fortunate our lives are, as well as our parents and grandparents generation.

We met this British couple and they said to us... "Did you notice there are barely any old people in this country... ?" And after they made this comment, I really started to notice. They estimated that between 750,000 to 2 million people died at the hands of the Khmer Rouge. Millions of people starved to death, children were forced into becoming child soldiers, people were tortured for stupid reasons... and the worst thing is people that did not conform ... died. I cannot imagine the devastation and horrors of living during this time... which was in fact right around the time I was born. Heavy stuff... I know.. but I encourage everyone to read about this, or history in general... for the pure reason of learning. I speak for myself when I say, up until this point, I have lived more or less an ignorant life of not knowing. This was a very loud wake up call for me...

Ok... lighter stuff now... I promise.

Siem Reap on the other hand.... was thankfully on the opposite end of the emotional continuum....and we had such a fantastic stay here! Felix and I really really loved our stay here! From the people, to the food, to the sites, to just the vibe of the old market! Everyone was so friendly.... you'd just smile at the locals on their motorbikes, and unlike at at home where they'd look away and pretend they didn't see... they'd just smile back!

Angkor Wat and all the other temples were just amazing.... no words can describe it, and our pictures do no justice! We tried to catch sunrise at 5am... two days in a row... but sadly... nothing but clouds. We did manage to see the sunset at Phnom Bakheng, and it was breathtaking, along with the hundreds of other tourists! ;p Felix and I made the trek up the day before... and had the whole temple to ourselves...LITERALLY and shared a very romantic breakfast of 'bananas' on the top. Definitely one of the highlights of our trip! People... your next vacation has to be in Siem Reap.... definitely unforgettable... !!!! I just don't get how it can be tossed out of the 7 Wonders of the World??? It is by far one of my favourite places so far!

Another particularly poignant memory was when Felix and I were doing a tour of the temples on the second day, and decided to take a break at what used to be the King's swimming pool. (More like Swimming Lake... at that!) We decided to take a break, and this little girl came up to us to try and sell us us her handicrafts. If you have been to Cambodia, you would understand how often we get the touts from kids to buy bracelets, cold drinks, postcards, you name it! They have many different methods... from pleading, to pouting, to just being bratty. That never works for me... This particular little girl called "Mi"" really didn't care about the sell... she must have been about 5, and just wanted to play. She knew a couple odd English words, and was no way fluent, but she just had this pure innocence about her, and she really just wanted to play with us. She brought her toys, which was literally dirt that she moulded into a little bowl, a little dirt spoon, and a little ball of dirt with a tree branch in it. She then proceeded to teach us how to cook with her three utensils. When eventually the dirt couldn't take the abuse, and broke apart, she quickly moulded it into another little bowl, and gave it to Felix as a gift! Such a simple moment, but so pure, and so memorable for us. She even gave me a high 5 when we left!

We also took a trip out to Boeung Tonle Sap Lake....it was the bumpiest tuk tuk ride ever! (We'll post the video soon so you can see just HOW bumpy it was!) But so worth it... just to see Cambodians living their lives... we saw so many little kids just playing by the side of the road... naked kids at that. I think Cambodian parents don't believe in clothes until they are 2-3 years old. It was so awesome to see.... and I wish that we had a better camera... cause every couple minutes, we'd see the best picture, but we'd whiz by and pic opportunity would be gone. We went for a private boat tour of the floating village ... and it was cool... if again just for the kids. I think the first English word then any child learns in the country is "One dolla! One Dolla!" The kids would ride on their parents boat, come parallel with our boat and jump onto our boat to try and sell their wares! We saw these three little girls literally in a metal basin each, just floating and hanging out! There was floating schools, floating markets, floating basketball court, floating mosque... it was a city of boats!

Felix and I had such a memorable and incredible time in Cambodia.... it really is one of the destinations that stands out to us... and for you to read.. I guess you can judge based on the length of this blog!

We're off to Laos next! It should be a complete different change in pace and lifestyle... =)

Miss you guys!

Good Morning Vietnam!

felix_and_stephanie — Mon, 4 Feb 2008 19:03:00 GMT

3 weeks in Vietnam has been a definite eye opener... surprisingly, we're still not sick of Pho, despite having it almost everyday! "I luv Pho 24!"

From Hanoi, to Halong Bay, to Hue, to Hoi An, to Nha Trang, to Ho Chi Minh City, and finally the Mekong Delta... No place was alike... but yet similar! As the locals like to say... "Same Same, but different!" ;)

Felix and I have been reading a lot on the Vietnam War, and one book I would definitely recommend is "The Girl in the Picture," by Kim Phuc. It definitely made our visit to the Cu Chi tunnels that much more poignant. Those tunnels are insane! If you didn't have claustrophobia before, you would after going in these tunnels. Felix and I only managed to attempt the first leg, and even though I really wanted to do the other two sections, I honestly think I would have passed out. It was tiny, and to think during the bombings, people would be in these dark airless tunnels for hours on end. It was such a pointless war! So much suffering... for NOTHING.

Our last stop in Vietnam was HCMC, and to be honest, I think it was my least favorite place in Vietnam, but having my pal from high school Suzanne, made all the difference. She absolutely spoiled us rotten! She wined and dined us, and put us up for 5 days... in one of the best places we have stayed in since our tour of Vietnam started... =) It was awesome to get back in touch with her... you know... you really start to treasure those friendships where you just pick up where you left off... even though the last time I saw her was 4 years ago! Suz... thank you for your hospitality! You made HCMC very special to me... and in all honestly, it was cause of our visit with you! ;)

Next stop is Cambodia!

Chapter 15: Sights and Sounds

felix_and_stephanie — Wed, 23 Jan 2008 13:28:00 GMT

Felix anxiously looks at his watch again... the sleeper bus from Hoi An to Nha Trang is half an hour late. A sleeper bus had driven past about 10 minutes ago but the attendant assured them ‘it’s not the correct bus’ … “nothing ever seems to be on-time” Felix mutters to himself. Steph starts to get antsy too and steps out onto the sidewalk in anticipation of the buses arrival. Felix takes comfort in the fact that there are others waiting at the café who seem to be waiting for the same bus. Suddenly a bus arrives… but it is not the sleeper bus that Felix and Steph were expecting. “Shit… scammed again!” Felix thought. The people around them start boarding the bus. Felix gives the attendant a quizzical look…. “Not this one!” the attendant replied. Eventually, everyone boards the bus, leaving only Felix and Steph standing at the café on the bustling street.

Many more agonizing minutes pass when suddenly, an ear-splitting honk of a horn blares loudly…BEEP BEEP BEEP!!! BEEP BEEP BEEP!!! BEEP BEEP BEEP!!! BEEP BEEP BEEP!!! The sleeper bus finally pulls up but the honking persists. BEEP BEEP BEEP!!! BEEP BEEP BEEP!!! BEEP BEEP BEEP!!! Felix and Steph gather their packs and head towards the bus. The honking gets even louder as they approach it. “We hear you already!!”

Just then, a big hairy European man runs into the street from nowhere, his face puffed red with rage. He points at the driver yelling and screaming in some foreign language while flipping him the bird. It is obvious that he wants the driver to stop the honking but it just continues. The driver then jumps out of the bus ready to confront the European, screaming in Vietnamese. Felix was sure a fight was going to break out but then the attendant jumps in between the two men and manages to diffuse the situation. “This is going to be a long night…”

Felix and Steph settle in on the bus… fairly cramped but cozy enough. The bus driver gets back in and pulls away.

Very quickly, everyone realizes that this driver has a serious passion for the horn. Every 5 seconds, he has his hand pressed on it to warn the world, that he is “COMING THROUGH! BEEP BEEP BEEP!!!” The honking was loud enough from outside of the bus but from the inside, it was bone-shattering. Steph looks across at Felix and rolls her eyes! She starts thinking… oh why, OH WHY didn’t I pack my ear plugs! To make matters worse, the driver sticks in a Vietnamese variety show in the DVD player with the volume on LOUD! Obviously, none of the tourists on the bus understand what’s going on but the locals seemed to get a kick out of it… Steph is quickly starting to regret not taking the sleeper train… even though there was the off chance of another rat attack! The ‘MacGyver’ in Stephanie takes tissue paper… rolls them up into little buds… and shoves them in her ears, hoping and praying they will muffle the jarring sounds.

As the journey continues, suddenly, out of the blue, Felix’s ears perk up. That tune… it’s so familiar! “What is it???” The realization slowly sinks in…. they are doing a horrible, Vietnamese rendition of “Ooops I Did It Again!” Even Felix had to chuckle! There is no McDonalds, No KFC… but even dear Britney is popular here….

Many days and another sleeper bus ride later…

Steph and Felix find themselves sitting on a rickety wooden boat in a muddy river somewhere near the Mekong Delta…. Two other passengers are with them… a Canadian and an Israeli. Propelling them along this river was a 5 foot, 80 lbs tiny little Vietnamese woman who spoke no words of English. The ride goes on for over a half hour in the 30 degree heat and the poor woman struggles to keep the boat moving. At one point, the water was so shallow that she had to jump into the waist high muddy water and push the boat forward. The picture of this poor woman pushing this boat with 4 foreigners on it screams “Asshole Tourists” – a term Felix adopted after reading an interesting blog from another fellow traveler (http://journals.worldnomads.com/hotnoodle/post/13945.aspx).

Felix and the Israeli grab the oars, and help with moving the boat. Together, they manage to move the boat forward and eventually reach their destination. The woman is clearly exhausted and walks to a nearby hose to wash all the mud off her legs. Other foreigners arrive shortly afterwards in their own boats, each one being pushed from behind by a poor Vietnamese villager trudging through the mud... Of all the boats that arrived, only a handful had foreigners helping the villager with moving the boat forward. The majority of the foreigners just sat there while the villager struggled from behind… ‘Asshole Tourists’...

Pham Ngu Lao – HCMC…

The boy was no older than 10… “Hey! Hey!”… he was trying to get the attention of the foreigners sitting at the dingy bar set in the backpacking district. “Hey! Hey!” He looks like just another street kid, begging for money. But suddenly, he pulls out three batons and lights them with fire. He then starts to juggle them… the flames narrowly missing his face with each toss. His act also includes fire breathing, flame swallowing and putting what looks like a piece of burning coal into his mouth. Despite his greatest efforts, none of the foreigners even gave him a second glance. “Hey! Hey!” He then pulls out a string from his pockets. He starts to slowly insert the string into his nostril, and then slowly pulls it through from his mouth….. he gives it a pull, back and forth, see-sawing it through his mouth and nose. Still no reaction from the crowd, not even an inkling of interest. His last and final act, he pulls out a volleyball, and he starts to spin it on one finger, faster, and faster. “Hey! Hey!” No one even looks at him. He then moves forward to the foreigners in the bar, from one table to the next, asking for a donation. Of the 15-odd people there, only one table acknowledges him and gives him some money. Dejected, the boy packs his stuff and walks off to the next bar where he’ll try his luck again. On his way out he mutters something under his breath… most likely something to the nature of ‘Asshole Tourists’…

Gallery: Hoi An

felix_and_stephanie — Mon, 21 Jan 2008 02:27:00 GMT

Hoi An

Gallery: Hue

felix_and_stephanie — Mon, 21 Jan 2008 02:07:00 GMT

Hue

Hue - Sleeper Train Adventures!

felix_and_stephanie — Tue, 15 Jan 2008 21:48:00 GMT

Transportation to Hue: Via Sleeper Train
Occupants per Cabin: 6 (3 bunks to a side)
Foreigners Vs Locals: 4 vs 2
Duration: 7pm to 7am
Experience Rating Out of 10: 10!

Overall our adventures on the Sleeper Train from Hanoi to Hue was a lot better then I could have expected...with ONE EXCEPTION!!!

Felix and I made the arrangements, and figured that we could save a night at a hotel as well as get to Hue in the process.

Let me tell you... these train compartments are seriously cosy! Picture 3 beds stacked one on top of one another and a tiny aisle of about 2 feet separating you from the guy next to you. (I now also think that they recycle the bedding... but I try not to think about it!) We were lucky, that someone wanted to trade with us to be with their friends, because we actually ended up with two Scottish Doctors who were travelling through Vietnam as well! They had so many stories to tell about their adventures since they did a 6 month stint a couple of years ago! It was awesome to be able to trade stories. The actual journey was uneventful. The moment I treasured the most was when everyone was asleep, and I just watched the Vietnam landscape whiz by at twilight while listening to some mellow tunes on our Ipod. (Thanks Mom and Dad!) Little did I know that during the journey... we would have a 7th passenger!

When we got to Hue, Felix and I checked into the hotel and started to unpack and get ready for the day... as I was unpacking the provisions of food... the contents of the Ritz crackers started to crumble out. I was thinking in my head... "Man, I am so clumsy! Did I accidently break the packaging!?" I then realized it was a lot WORSE then that! As I took out the box of cookies, I noticed that the culprit had also left its teeth mark in the carton! Chills started running through my body! If anyone has ever been to Vietnam and seen the rats WILL understand what I mean. These suckers could be mistaken for small dogs! Hell if I was a small dog, I'd be scared of the rats here.

You know what the ironic thing is... that night I woke up a couple times, and would hear the guy on the bottom bunk, eating chips. I just figured he was hungry! Gosh.... but in actual fact it was a BIG FAT BLACK RAT, at my feet, mere inches away.... having a feast of Ritz crackers. Thank God I didn't find out during the night... cause I would have absolutely freaked out, and not slept the entire night, and probably would have stood in the tiny cramped corridor for the next 7 hours! It still gives me the creeps, just thinking about it!

It more or lessed rained the entire time we were in Hue, which kinda made the whole trip there a disappointment. We took a city tour and visited the Citadel, and the famous tombs. To be honest, I think since Felix and I have seen so many of the World's most spectacular sites, we are starting to have extremely high expectations, and to a certain degree compare what we see... =) I guess not everything you see in your travels will knock your socks off! ;)Plus the rain really didn't help.

Off to Hoi An now... our bud Jeff Tam said it was his favorite stop! We've heard favorable things from other fellow travellers too.. so looking fwd to it!

Got to go catch the bus now! Til the next entry!

Halong Bay and Cat Ba Island

felix_and_stephanie — Tue, 15 Jan 2008 21:36:00 GMT

Our last night in Hanoi, prior to leaving for Halong Bay, we had a brush with the so called paranormal!!!!

Picture this... Felix and I settled in early, as we were due to depart from the hotel early the next morning. The hotel was a little sketchy... but we pretty much have gotten used to living with basic accomodations, and just figured that it was just for one night. It was a large room with 12 foot ceilings, no windows and very old fashioned rosewood furniture at the very back of the hotel, on the 1^st floor. We were getting ready for bed, and I decided to do some reading to help myself fall asleep. I was just getting ready to sleep when... I turned around and found a piece of paper on the bed. I thought it was a little odd... but picked it up and turned it around and saw that it was an old fashioned black and white portrait of an asian girl with long hair. I was scared to even look at it properly.... and showed it to Felix. It was sooo creepy... at around midnight to find this little pic! I immediately slipped it into the bedside drawer and tried to think”Happy Thoughts!”

I literally had goosebumps... and said to Felix I was scared this picture would show her ghostly image that night! You know me... I am the biggest chicken! Felix tried to come up with a logical conclusion, ie. Maybe the pic fell out of the book I borrowed from my mom... and was her friend. He even had the gall to suggest that “Maybe... I should keep the picture... and bring it home and show my mom, and ask if she knew the person posed in the pic!” To which I said... “No FRIGGIN way... what happens if the spirit of this girl follows us all the way home!” Thankfully, I didn’t see anything out of the ordinary that evening... but I kept my eyes shut all night! PS Mom.. did you stick a picture of your friend in one of your Danielle Steele books?? Please say YES ... please say YES!!!

The next day we took a three hour bus ride to Halong City to board the boat that would be our sleeping quarters for the next night. It was a gorgeous day, and Felix and I settled at the top of the boat on the recliners to soak in the view of the mountains.... I commented to Felix that they looked so similar to the mountains in Guilin except in Halong Bay, the mountains were set in the sea, vs the land, and Li River. We later on found that from Guilin to Halong Bay, it was just a 4 hour car ride.... figures! We explored the amazing caverns... and it’s just mind boggling how huge these caves are!

That evening... it was PARTY CENTRAL on our boat! The crew found out it was our honeymoon and set up a special event, and we were the guest of honour! We celebrated with two famlies from Oz and our new friends Earl and Sam from San Francisco, and Jacque from Quebec! The crew treated Felix and I to a beautiful cake and 3 bottles of red wine! The condition was that we had to sing Karoke, and the song the guide Duke, selected was... by our most famous Canadian.... Avril Lavigne... Skater Boi! Can you imagine Felix and I...needless to say it was a sorry attempt.... but very fun! I have to say .. the Vietnamese LOVE their karoke... and when everyone shyed away from the mike... Duke performed non stop!

We slept peacefully on the boat that night... to the gentle rocking of the waves.

Early the next morning... we tried our hand at sea kayaking around the mountains... and it was surreal! We kayaked through grottos and into these lagoons.... 100% recommended!

Our guide then brought us for an island mountain trek, where the official population is TWO! A one eyed war veteran and his wife. They maintain this island, cultivate crops, harvest fish as well has tender to their chickens. Such an idyllic life!! They treated us to a hot cup of tea and some tangerines that they had just picked from the tree.

That evening, we stayed in the BEST hotel thus far on this leg of the trip... and most likely ever WILL see.... going fwd! It was on Cat Ba island, secluded, ocean view room with a king sized bed... HBO and Qtips!!!! (I never realized how much I took the small comforts for granted!)

Here's a little video we took while on the boat:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNz19ytTKUM

Holy mackinal! I didn’t think we’d be so good about writing... hope you guys are enjoying our adventures with your morning coffee and crossant! =)