It's already tomorrow in Australia...

Happy Birthday Shaesh!

esther — Thu, 7 Aug 2008 06:50:00 GMT

I was a little bit sneaky and came home a bit early in time for my sister's birthday. I didn't tell her and so she had a little bit of a shock, but I think it was mostly a good shock. All that stuff about killing me in my sleep was idle banter. I hope.

So I made it home after a long trip via Singapore. My last day in Aus was very special. I went to the Aussie Rules footy with another Rach, one of my friends from Hobart who was in Melbourne for the weekend. It was my first live match and although I didn't understand the game at all before that day I picked it up quick enough. It was a lovely way to end my trip.

At the end of more than ten months away my passport is a mess. Fifteen previously blank pages have been filled with often multiple stamps for the seven countries I went to. The front cover has worn off so that you can't really tell where I"m from. Maybe that's quite apt. At least I haven't lost my accent. Adjusting to life at home is going to be hard. I miss travelling already and the weather during a Weegie summer is worse than and Aussie winter. But they say that home is where the heart is and my heart is where my family is. For that reason, if only that, it's good to be back.

Return to Aus

esther — Tue, 29 Jul 2008 14:02:00 GMT

Dorothy did it, so I can too, ok?

When I've told people my plan for coming back to Aus for the rugby it's been suggested to me that I might be insane. All that time and money and travel just for a game of rugby? The general consensus is that I'm completely off my head. Only Kiwis and the occasional Aussie seem to think I'm doing the right thing.

But, this is not just a rugby match. It's the Bledisloe Cup match, between Australia and the All Blacks. A chance to see the best rugby in the world! And the Wallabies!!! And for me as a fan of Aussie rugby, a chance to be part of a sea of gold shirts, singing with the crowd and not against it. A rare and precious opportunity.

The match itself was outstanding and not just because the result went my way. Both teams played some excellent rugby. The atmosphere was great. The banter between the fans was mostly good natured and entertaining. In short, it might just have been the best game I ever seen. So it might have been crazy to some, but to me it was well worth. A million thanks to my mum and dad who made it possible for me to go. I couldn't have asked for a better end to my trip.

Of course, there's other things for me to be back for, not just the rugby. It's unbelievably cold here, or perhaps I've just gone soft, so I've been spending much of my time indoors. It happens to be the Sydney Biennale at the moment, and I've spent a couple of days at the various galleries in showing it in the city. It's also the Melbourne International Film Festival this week and the Art Fair. So much to do, so little time...

Gallery: Wallabies

esther — Sat, 26 Jul 2008 13:35:00 GMT

Good Afternoon Vietnam

esther — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 16:31:00 GMT

I was very sad to leave Malaysia, but glad to be heading back to Phnom Penh, if only to see Uncle G again. He's not been keeping the best of health recently in more ways than one, but we still managed to get out and about for some excellent meals and spent many, many hours talking. That was all I really wanted to in PP as I'd already done all the required sight seeing last timne, but I did want to do something new in Cambodia, so I went to Sihanoukville for a couple of days. Snooky is Cambodia's number one (only?) beach resort. I'd been well warned that it's not as nice as the beaches in Thauland so I wasn't expecting much. It turned out to be nice enough, although I was glad to be there in low season. On the downside I managed to get myself a slightly dodgy tummy. I had been feeling a bit smug since I'd survived four weeks in Asia without any problems, and thought I might be able to make it to the end. More fool me. Thankfully it didn't hinder me too much and I made it back to PP for another day before heading off to Vietnam.

I loved Saigon the last time I was here, and nothing has changed except helmets are required on motorbikes which makes the traffic even more mental. I had big plans for shopping, but that hasn't worked out. Instead I've spent most of my time eating, sleeping and reading, which is fine by me. The Vietnamese are still complimenting me on my beautiful white skin, so that's removed any fears I might have had that I'd got a tan after 15 months of perpetual summer. (Although it seems to rain more here in the "dry" season than in the monsoon. Maybe Mother Nature is just gearing me up for what waits for me a home?)

Again I wanted to take advantage of being back somewhere I'd been before and so I did something different to last time. I did a short tour in the Mekong Delta. It wasn't much of tour, really, more a trip around various shops and factories. But the scenery was beautiful and if I ever make it back this way I'd like to spend some more time there.

Tomorrow I leave. As crazy as it sounds I'm going back to Australia. I have to see a man about a Wallaby...

Gallery: Mekong Delta

esther — Sun, 20 Jul 2008 13:18:00 GMT

Gallery: KL

esther — Sun, 6 Jul 2008 21:46:00 GMT

Safety Stop

esther — Sun, 6 Jul 2008 21:20:00 GMT

As you all know, I am rarely lost for words, but I've spent the past few days trying to sum up my time on Pulau Perhentian Kecil and I'm still stuck.Perhentian means "place to stop" in Malay, originally because it was a stopover for the South China Sea traders, but now it more accurately describes the numerous tourists who visit there and just don't ever want to leave. I spent slightly more than a week there and it was one of the best weeks of my time away from home, not just because of the incredible beauty of the place, but because of the beautiful people I met there. At times I couldn't help but feel incredibly emotional at how lucky I was to be there. I hope on the coldest, darkest winter mornings in Glasgow I can close my eyes and remember it.

After a short stop in Khota Baru on the east coast I made the very long journey to Kuala Lumpur where I spent my last few days in Malaysia enjoying the sights, food and shopping. I'm very sad to be leaving Malaysia. I've loved every moment of it and I can only look forward to coming back and exploring more of it. Tomorrow I go back to Cambodia.

Gallery: Perhentian Islands

esther — Tue, 24 Jun 2008 20:04:00 GMT

Welcome to the Jungle

esther — Sat, 21 Jun 2008 15:21:00 GMT

I arrived in Malaysia on Sunday. First stop was Melaka, a historical town with a Portuguese colonial influence. The town has grown since then, but a lot of the old buildings are still there. There's been a lot of money invested int he town recently, and by 2010 it should be back to its original grandeur. I also spent a day on a local island, Pulau Besar which was almost deserted. Swimming in the sea was like getting into a hot bath and I got bitten to bits walking inland, but that was only good practice for what was about to come.

From Melaka I headed north to Taman Negara (National Park) in the centre of Malaysia. The best part of the experience was the three hour boat trip up the river into the park. The views were beautiful and if there is a better way to travel, I haven't done it yet. I spent one night in a jungle camp. Unfortunately the generator was broken so we had no electricity for the night. Candles for light and no fan, windows open and plenty of my biting friends! I survived the night with a lot of insect repellent and a prayer. The next day a few of us took an unguided walk in the jungle to a waterfall. It was a bit too adventurous for me, but I did it in the end. That night was spent in the local resort with only slightly more advance facilities and a night safari - a world away from the Singapore Zoo. Not as much real wildlife, in fact the most exciting part was the fourteen people crammed in and on one four-wheel drive.

After the national park it was time for a cool sea breeze and some relaxation, so I took myself off to the coast. The small town of Cherating is a little paradise. It's very quiet, with clear blue waters, and just enough in the town to keep me occupied for a few days before I explore some more of Malaysia's islands.

Gallery: Taman Negara

esther — Tue, 17 Jun 2008 19:43:00 GMT

Gallery: Melaka

esther — Mon, 16 Jun 2008 19:14:00 GMT

Singapore Slinging

esther — Sat, 14 Jun 2008 16:52:00 GMT

I arrived in Singapore shortly before 2 o'clock in the morning. I hadn't had much sleep on the plane and was panicking going through customs that I might be arrested for smuggling chewing gum into the country. There was nothing to worry about. My arrival was not noted. Here, as opposed to other parts of SE Asia, I am invisible. Not a bad thing when you want to go unnoticed and have a sneaky kip in the airport until the metro opens.

Unfortunately I couldn't get into my hostel until the afternoon, so I had seven hours to waste in the city. So where does one go unwashed, after sleeping on a bench for just a couple of hours? Raffles, of course! I've crashed some of the most exclusive hotels in the world and this was a doddle. It was lovely, but sadly too early for a Sling in the Long Bar. I spent the rest of the day wandering around in Little India and the Colonial District trying to find a happy medium between the steam bath outside and the ice blasting air conditioning inside the malls. I was happy to get into my hostel for a well earned rest.

The next day I checked out some of the museums and art galleries and looked about Chinatown. Singapore is world famous for shopping, but it's really only good when you've got a big enough purse and a big enough bag. I have to keep reminding myself that I'll be back here again soon. On Friday night I headed off to the Night safari. A compliment to the Singapore Zoo, the Night Safari operates while the Zoo is closed and lets you see all the nocturnal animals. It's a well put together show which runs remarkably efficiently despite the enormous numbers in the weekend crowds. But you would expect nothing less from Singapore. It's all true.

Tomorrow I'm off to Malaysia.

Gallery: Singapore

esther — Sat, 14 Jun 2008 16:42:00 GMT

Somewhere Over The Rainbow

esther — Tue, 10 Jun 2008 19:02:00 GMT

Over the past ten or so years I've often been asked why I have a fascination with Australia. Why I'm so interested in the culture, the history and (most often) why I support the sporting teams. Is it because I'm a closet Aussie? Is it because I've been there? Do I have family there? No, no, no. I shrug. Occasionally I'll respond, saying that Australia has been very good to me, which of course no one understands. At the end of seven months here perhaps it's time to explain.

At the beginning of The Wizard of Oz, Dorothy sings Somewhere Over The Rainbow, skies are blue, and the dreams that you dare to dream really do come true. Well, Australia was my Oz. In my darkest, saddest and loneliest moments I always had Australia to look forward to. And the more of those moments I had, the more I looked forward to it. A far off place, unlike any other, where the sun always shines and where, as Charles M Schulz said, it is already tomorrow. Australia was all the optimism I ever needed.

The reality of course is different, as I knew it must be. It rains now and again and bad things happen here, just as they do anywhere else. There are lions and tigers and bears (oh my!). But I've been all over this country now. I've visited every state and territory and it has been more beautiful and extra-ordinary than I could ever have imagined sitting at home. I have met very many wonderful Aussies here - every one of them full of brains and heart and nerve. And while Aus will never be home for me, when I leave I will long for it again as much as I ever did. Until next time.

Gallery: Cairns

esther — Sun, 8 Jun 2008 16:31:00 GMT

A lot up top

esther — Fri, 6 Jun 2008 17:11:00 GMT

The Alice is a lot bigger than I'd imagined it to be, but there's still not a lot going on. But I decided to do what the locals do and joined the party which helped fill my days and nights there while I waited for my train.

The Ghan is a train which runs the length of Australia from top to bottom and back again. Short for Afghan, after the camels that once made the journey, it's a bit of legend in Aus, because while it was planned 70 odd years back they only got around to finishing the track between Alice Springs and Darwin a few years ago. (I suspect they got stuck at a party. It's easy done.) I have some romantic notions about old fashioned modes of transport and was looking forward to the journey. It took a full 24 hours to reach Darwin, stopping at The Katherine for a few hours to allow us to take a look about. Taking the train was a wonderful compromise - much faster and easier than the bus, but it allowed me to see more of the country I was moving through than flying.

I arrived in Darwin on Friday night, although I think every night in Darwin is a Friday. It's like Ibiza on steroids. But it was wonderful to be back in tropical temperatures again. It's the beginning of the dry season in The Top End and the weather was perfect. Relentless blue skies and a gentle breeze meant that there was a fair amount of time spent relaxing by the pool during the day.

There's strictly no swimming in the sea, as the waters in and around Darwin are inhabited by something more unpleasant than your average backpacker - salties - salt water crocodiles. You don't want to mess with those fellas. I took a day trip to Litchfield National Park to have a week look at them. They do a number of "Jumping Crocodile Cruises" which aren't very natural, but are a great opportunity to see these monsters out of the water. After feeding some crocs we spent the rest of the day in the park, looking around and swimming in waterfalls. Bliss.

From Darwin I flew to Cairns. I missed this little gen out on my original trip up the east coast, and I had to see what the fuss was about. It has a reputation as a party town, but after Darwin it seemed very sleepy. I had a nice few days looking around and doing a couple of wonderful day trips. One of them was to the Atherton tablelands, which had come highly recommended by many (thanks Kirstin). It was the best tour I've done while in Aus and I'm glad I saved it for last. I met up with Mike and Conor who were in Cairns diving. It was wonderful to see them again. It's only a few weeks since I last saw them, but it seems much longer. It reminded me just how much I miss Hobart.

Gallery: Litchfield

esther — Mon, 2 Jun 2008 18:00:00 GMT

Back Outback

esther — Tue, 27 May 2008 16:22:00 GMT

After a few days in Adelaide it was time to get on the road again, and a long road at that. I set off on a tour of the outback to the red centre. The journey took six days and covered more than 2000km. It was a long, hot and tiring experience, but one I had to do.

Day 1 - We left Adelaide and made out way northwards though the Calre Valley stopping briefly at Quorn (no, really) and arriving at our first night's accommodation in Parachilna. There's not a lot in Parachilna, but at least there's pub and all the six people who live there like it a lot. Actually, one of the left the night we were there (nothing personal) so I believe they are down to five now. Dinner was a bbq of camel, kangaroo and emu. All very tasty.

Day 2 - After a good night's rest (the only one on the trip) we moved on to the Flinders Ranges. I opted out of the big hike up the mountain, preferring a gentle bush walk instead. Obviously I got told I was "weak as piss" , as not "having a go" is a crime in Aus, but I didn't care. I know my limitations and there would be plenty of opportunity for adventure later.

Day 3 - On our third day we headed off early into the outback, stopping at one of the many salt lakes. This one is no longer mined, but we couldn't get too close as it's in an area for military rocket testing and there's always a chance of getting exploded which would bring down anyone's holiday. That afternoon we arrived in Coober Pedy which is famous for it's opal mines and it's mostly underground dwellings. But the Australian sense of humour is far more precious to me than any old stone. I had always suspected that the meaning of the name was apocryphal, but I was delighted to discover that it is absolutely true. Roughly translated from the local language Coober Pedy means "white fella's burrow". Disappointingly there are a lot of buildings above ground, but I had the pleasure of sleeping in a bunkhouse chiseled out from the rock.

Day 4 - After another early start we were off on the road towards the red centre. It's a long way from Coober Pedy in South Australia to Yulara in the Northern Territory and the journey took most of the day, arriving there just in time for sunset at Uluru (that's Ayers Rock to you). It was a very pleasant experience drinking champagne and watching the colours change slowly from yellow to orange to red and brown. That night it was back to our campsite and for the first time I slept in a swag under the stars. Despite the perfectly clear skies I wasn't at all cold and if I'd only been allowed a lie in in the morning I'd have been happy.

Day 5 - Alas, there was no lie in. Once again we were up before sunrise so we could watch it at Uluru. Unfortunately every other tourist in Australia was there too and my idea of a majestic, peaceful moment was slightly spoiled. After sunrise I took a walk around the base which takes nearly two hours. The aboriginals ask that you don't do The Climb and they also ask that you don't photograph parts of the rock. You will just have to take my word for it that Uluru is a much more fascinating and varied object than most photographs would lead you to believe. Some of the shapes and colours in the rock are spectacular. After Uluru we went to Kata Tjuta (The Olgas) which the national park is named after. They are less well known but just as spectacular in their own way. Sadly we'd spent too much time at the big red rock and couldn't stay long to explore. Then it was back on the bus to King's Canyon and another amazing night in swags under the stars.

Day 6 - A slightly later start (hallelujah) and off to King's Canyon. This w3as one of the things I was most looking forward to on this trip and I knew it would be a big challenge for me. I managed to climb the canyon and take the full walk around it. I don't know how anyone could do it in the height of summer, the experience in winter was breathtaking in more ways than one, but I did it with no complaints. Unfortunately the pictures just don't capture the scale and beauty of it. In the afternoon it was another long drive to Alice Springs where I'm staying for a couple of days before the next leg of my adventure.

Gallery: Outbook Tour - Day 5

esther — Tue, 27 May 2008 16:11:00 GMT

Gallery: Outback Tour - Day 4

esther — Tue, 27 May 2008 16:06:00 GMT