Continental Divide Trail 2011

Over 1000 miles completed and in Helena, MT

elawlor — Wed, 20 Jul 2011 03:08:00 GMT

I have completely neglected this journal but will give a quick update while I still have 5 minutes of internet time:

Returned to the Gila last month and completed the section we missed. Very hot and dry. Picked up our 4th hiking buddy Mosho at the end of June and drove to the Canadian border. We have hiked over 350 miles southbound now through Glacier NP and the Bob Marshall Wilderness. Having a great time. I love Montana! Water everywhere! Mountains! Chinese Walls! Hoping to be through Colorado by mid October. Some day when I have more internet time I will write more!

In Crested Butte, CO

elawlor — Wed, 8 Jun 2011 06:17:00 GMT

So, I arrived late last night into a campground just outside of Crested Butte, Colorado, where my hiking partner Trainwreck lives. This morning was like Christmas when I looked out of my tent door and saw the surrounding mountains. One of the most beautiful towns I've ever been to. The three of us hiked from Cuba to Ghost Ranch, a lovely retreat in the colorful new mexican buttes and mesas. We were picked up by a couple of good friend from the PCT and spent a few days enjoying Santa Fe. From there we walked to Chama, New Mexico where we planned to do an overnight resupply and head back on the trail to make it to Pagosa in time for the long-anticipated Folk and Bluegrass Festival. As we were trying to catch a ride up to the pass, however, a former Forest Service ranger gave us a 20-minute talk on how unwise it would be for us to head out on the trail where we would remain close to 12,000 feet for 65 miles in still very deep snow. It was a difficult decision for us, as the draw to continue hiking is very strong but we decided to listen to reason and our gut feeling and came up with a lower alternate route taking Forest Service roads all the way to Pagosa. We spent close to 5 days there, sitting in hot springs and camping out listening to many fabulous Bluegrass bands. Many of our friends met us there so it was a great time of refreshment. Because of the insane snow levels here and in the rest of the mountain west, we are rendesvouing in Crested Butte, planning to either jump up to the Great Basin in Wyoming to hike a couple of weeks or flip up to Canada as originally intended. A good friend of ours from the PCT is planning to hike with us the rest of the way. We'll see where we end up next. This hike has become a game of strategy and trying to avoid the snow. From time to time we have wondered if we will be able to hike the entire trail this season, but things are looking up. We are taking it one day at a time. It feels wonderful to be in Colorado in the mountains. I look forward to hiking it September.

Cuba, New Mexico

elawlor — Sat, 21 May 2011 07:48:00 GMT

About 350 miles down and sitting stinky in the library in Cuba, New Mexico. We skipped the Gila due to fire and headed north from Pie Town to Grants and now Cuba. The last section was stunning, walking from mesa to mesa with ocasional snow or rainstorms and full rainbows. We met wonderful trail angels in Mimbres: Will in Lennae, and in Grants: Hugo and Carole. Truly wonderful people who blessed us with all of our hiker needs and great conversation. I thought it was a good idea to sent my tent fly and rain gear ahead to Cuba from Mimbres and of course our first day out of Pie Town it rains. I endured three nights of rain without a fly but with an extra garbage bag, my tyvek, my umbrella and some branches I was able to stay dry each of those nights. I am thankful to have my rain gear back though, as it has been rainy for days now. We are on track to reach Pagosa Springs, Colorado by the Bluegrass Festival June 3-5.

Loving it out here. The CDT is remote and obscure. So far following mostly dirt roads but this last stretch was mostly "trail" or a pathway designated by rock cairns. We laugh every day and work hard. So good to be out walking, and over 4 months left of it!

First 150 miles!

elawlor — Tue, 10 May 2011 04:24:00 GMT

We have walked from the Mexican border, through the hot desert, up to a fire lookout close to 10,000 feet, through dry creek valleys and down to Mimbres, New Mexico, where I now sit with in a house. A nice couple found us on the side of the road and have welcomed us into their home. It has been wonderful to be back on a long-distance walk again. We are getting used to the long mileage again and the shortage of water. One day we had to steal mossy water from horses on a private ranch, spent 2 hours searching for the spring another day, and filtered brown disgusting water from a puddle the next day. But somehow we have not yet gone thirsty. We went from sleeping in cow pastures to sleeping in a fire lookout at 10,000 feet. And how we face a large spreading fire in our next section of the Gila Wilderness. We will have to skip about 160 miles of trail to be completed later in time, when the fire is long gone. It is disappointing for us so early in the trail, but we can't walk through fire! So so good to be out on the trail again.

CDT Here I come!

elawlor — Fri, 29 Apr 2011 09:51:00 GMT

I arrived last night after 47 hours of flights and layovers from Kathmandu to Mumbai to London to Chicago and San Diego. But I leave in just 5 hours on a Greyhound for New Mexico to begin thru-hiking the CDT. I'm meeting up with my two hiking buds: Trainwreck and Abear. I have spent the day re-packing my things and buying a Kindle. No time to waste! I will update this as often as possible.

21 days in the EVEREST region

elawlor — Wed, 20 Apr 2011 01:01:00 GMT

Tony and I are back in busy, hippie-infested, touristic Thamel in Kathmandu but we are enjoying such things as VEGETABLES and CAKE and cheap CURRY. We have spent the last few days eating and reading Harry Potter, feeling that we have earned the right to such laziness after our last trek.

Most trekkers #1 take a guide and porters (people who carry their stuff) #2 fly into the gateway city of Lukla and #3 take the low route to Everest Base Camp, returning in sometimes 10 days. Tony and I however #1 carried maps and guidebooks and our own stuff #2 began walking from Jiri, which is a good 5 days and 28,000 feet of elevation gain (going up and down and up and down) to Lukla and #3 completed the "3 passes" trek, each of which climbs close to or over 18,000 feet.

The trek was phenomenal and challenged us in ways we never could have quite anticipated. Hiking the entire PCT in one season is one thing but trekking and sleeping in elevations above 15,000 feet for 2 weeks is another. We felt strong and acclimated after our 5-day approach trek from Jiri. We ascended and descended ridiulous amounts of meters every day but since we were in lower elevations we were capable of walking at normal speeds. This section was pleasant since there were few other trekkers and we were able to go on adventuroud side trips to dirty little yak cheese factories. Once we hit the main Everest circuit we were shocked by the numbers of guided trekking groups, lines of porters, and dozens of yak trains. Our method of repreive was to begin walking in the early hours of the morning and find little-used side trails during the day to get away from the crowds. As much as the Himalaya cannot be compared to our mountain ranges in the US in scale, we couldn't help but miss our lonely wilderness experiences in the high sierra or montana and alaska. But being surrounded on a daily basis by peaks and mountains from 20 to 29 thousand feet high with glaciers spewing from the skies in ever direction was difficult to digest. I couldn't help but want everyone I love to be there with me to witness the unreal beauty.

Once we reached higher elevations, however, our bodies overruled our minds in strength in energy. In one day Tony came down with symptoms of Acute Mountain Sickness, a Flu AND Giardia. Luckily there was a clinic nearby where all of our assumptions were confirmed and we had already been carrying the proper medications to deal with these things. We stayed at lower elevations an extra day but continued with our itinerary anyway.

We crossed 3 passes close to 18,000 feet. The first being the highest and more of a sheer ridge wall than a pass. We also visited Everest Base camp and walked around as if in a living museum, witnessing the subculture of hundreds of tents and contendors for the climbing the tallest mountain in the world. We walked up 3 18,000 foot peaks for better views of Everest. I expereinced the most degrading hike of my life climbing up the peak Kala Pattar at 5 in the morning. I was numb in my hands, toes and face, and had close to no energy. What could have taken 20 minutes at lower elevations took me over 2 hours. So although the views were absolutely unlike anything I'd ever seen in my life, the elevation was severely draining and we were glad to reach lower elevations to breathe again.

Tomorrow we go bungy jumping and on a 2-day raft trip. A few more days to enjoy Kathmandu and then back home on the 26th for the CDT. I hope to post pictures either this week or when I return.

Annapurna Circuit and Sanctuary

elawlor — Thu, 24 Mar 2011 00:14:00 GMT

Today was our only real "rest" day: a day of shopping and eating chocolate cake in caves. Yesterday we returned from our 19-day hike in the Annapurnas. We staying in teahouses every night, ate dal baht and sipped tea, and spent our days walking through rhododendron forests, jungle, river valleys and high high alpine. Our friend Lauren joined us for the first 12 days. Every day we were in complete awe of the mountains, whose height nearly doubles the highest mountain in the lower 48 states. We were in a state of reverence. In the High Sierra and Rockies I am able to play in the mountains. Here we are blessed guests. Most days all we could do was laugh and ask if we were truly there. The highlight of the circuit was passing over the Thorong La pass, reaching nearly 18000 feet. The air is significantly thinner so we spent several days slowly climbing higher and going on acclimatization hikes. We often didn't hike very far because of the elevation so it is certainly a different style from what I am used to with long-distance walking in the USA, and not having to carry a tent or stove was quite luxurious. We paid not more than $1.50 a night for a bed, and ate to our hearts content, spending not much more than $15 a day. We passed through several surreal high altitude villages and imagined our lives if we had grown up in the presence of such mountains and harsh circumstances. Lauren left us after completing the circuit and Tony and I continued on to Annapurna Base Camp where we sat in the bosom of 8,000 meter peaks and post-holed in the snow. Our last couple days we spent time eating chocolate cake and writing, trying to take in the mountains before we headed out. Tomorrow we begin our 2-day bus journey to the start of our Everest Trek, where we will spend 26 days in high altitude, exploring the surroundings of the highest mountain on earth. I feel utterly blessed to be here. Some day I promise I will post pictures.

bhatkuwa: organic farming in a remote village

elawlor — Fri, 4 Mar 2011 14:25:00 GMT

Tony and I just spent about 2 weeks wwoofing on a coffee farm with a family in the remote village of Bhatkuwa, Nepal. I will be processing all of my thoughts and reactions for many days to come. It was like returning to Africa, where I am the only white person and hardly anyone speaks english. The village consists of small plots of land and simple homes on a hillside, an hour's walk from a small town. We lived with a family who collects and processes the village coffee crop for export to other countries. We spent our days cutting leaves and carring loads with forehead straps for the water buffalo and goats to eat during the day. We picked, pulped, sorted, washed and dried coffee side by side with the villagers and our beautiful host family consistind of mother mona, father salikram, and brother krishna. We ate rice and lentils twice a day, sitting with the family on rice mats, eating with our hand and enjoying hours of low-lit conversation in simple english and nepali. We taught english in the local school and were honored guests at the hindi shiva ratri festival and made to dance while the entire village watched and clapped. We went through the cycles of being completely overwhelemed and stressed out by the communication and cultural barrier to laughing with our family as the local dumb man pantomimed his day. It was beautiful and rewarding as well as awkward and overwhelming from time to time. In the end, as we hiked out of the village yesterday morning, we were sad to be leaving, but are now headed out on the 3-week Annapurna Circuit and Sanctuary treks with our friend Lauren. We have bought last minute warm layers for our 18,000 foot elevation climbs and some last minute snickers. Time to experience the high himalaya.

quick update

elawlor — Fri, 18 Feb 2011 03:03:00 GMT

This will be oh so quick. I just won't have much internet on this trip with 2 weeks on a remote farm, 8 weeks of himalayan trekking and such. Tony and I are leaving at 5 am tomorrow for a bus ride across the country to our wwoof farm for a 2 week stay. No one speaks english in the family and all we know is that the farm is a one hour walk from the bus stop. Should be an adventure just finding the place. I just bought a bulky wool/fleece nepali jacket to add as a layer for our coming hikes. We just returned from our first trek of 7 days and I wasn't quite warm enough at 13000 feet, and we will be reaching 18000 feet in the weeks to come. I also just said goodbye to Daven, who made a stopover in nepal for a week to trek with us. I made him hike up to a temple the night he arrived and get up at 5.30 the next morning to see another buddhist stupa for sunrise before immediately hopping on a bus and hiking several hours to our first town stop on our trek, with a panorama of the langtang himalaya. We had a beautiful experience walking through remote buddhist villages made up of stone houses, terraced gardens and lots of animals. We ate the staple rice and lentils to our hearts content every day and enjoyed incredible views every day.

I will some day post pictures. Probably in about 10 months, when I finish the CDT. Last week we were riding elephants and spying on baby rhinos. Now it is time for some hard work and time to practice our nepali then off to annapurna.

ma-laai nepal man parchha ( I really like nepal)

elawlor — Fri, 4 Feb 2011 16:51:00 GMT

I have thirty minutes left on my internet session. I write to you from Pokhara, Nepal, a little lakeside town next the annapurnas, reaching higher than 8000 metres. It isn't always clear out, but when it is, I can hardly contain my exctitment when I catch a glimpse of the towering himalaya so close.

I have been in Nepal a little over a week and haven't found much time for internet since I am overwhelmed with how much there is to do here. I am in love with this place. The night of my arrival, I met a few other ragged travelers who invited me to watch the sunrise from the biggest buddhist stupa in nepal. We listened to the morning puhja (chanting and gong-gonging) and had breakfast on a roof. I was immediately strewn into the travel vibe in stylish fashion. I met up with my friend Tony the next day. We will be traveling together all 3 months here. We made more friends, ate lots of delicious nepali food, organized trekking permits and embraced the crazy that is kathmandu. But we left after 2 days for Pokhara, a more peaceful and beautiful place to spend our time. We have been here a week and have been staying at a beautiful hostel with a deck overlooking the lake. Only about 3 dollars a night. Every morning we order tea and museli and study nepali. We have been taking nepali lessons at the Cosmic Brontosaurus Language School with a fabulous Nepali teacher and an outdoor straw classroom. We've been going 3 hours every morning but today was our last day. We will go to have dal baht (the nepali rice and lentil staple) with our teacher and his family. We spend our days rowing in the lake, hiking to incredible viewpoints, visiting mountian museums, and frequenting the local restaurants. We have made many nepali friends since we can speak a little nepali and make our rounds of "namastes" every day. I will really miss Pokhara, but we will be back in a month for our 3-week annapurna hike. From here we are visiting Chitwan National Park, where we will ride elephants and then back to Kathmandu to meet up with my friend Daven for a week of trekking.

I am already scheming to return to nepal. Such incredible trekking! Such beautiful people! There is also a farm where I could wwoof that takes a month to walk to. So cool. After our trek we will be an a farm for 2 weeks then annapurna and everest base camp!

Tokyo

elawlor — Tue, 25 Jan 2011 00:13:00 GMT

I had a lovely last week in okinawa. Visited the famous Ocean expo Park and Aquarium where one can find human-size lobsters, whale sharks, and snakes that look like candy puppets popping out of the sand. I came across a Cherry Blossom Festival and went to the Pineapple Park, where I was delighted to take ride on an automated golf cart around the pineapple plants, look at their random shell collection, and taste about 50 pineapple products. My favorite was the chocolate and the vinegar. I went on a whale-shark dive with 17 other japanese divers. They have a young whale shark protection program and allow divers to enter the enclosure out at sea to spend time with the sharks. It was specacuar. Nothing like a large 4-foot wide open mouth bumping into your legs. Sarah and John and I went to see Harry Potter 7 part 1 in the military theatre after we watched all 6 of the others in preparation. I tried hard, but only finished books 1-4.

And now I am in Tokyo. Arrived here in the middle of the night on saturday and have spent the last two days hopping metro trains and wandering around the city. Ever since I visited the louvre 6 years ago Ive been wanting to come to Japan. I remember watching the asian tourists with my mouth wide open, not even bothering to look at the mona lisa which was right in front of me. I am fascinated by the fashion here. Every sunday, the cosplay, or costume play, girls come out and strut their stuff. I planned my day around seeing this display but was very sad to have missed it. I did see a few girls in their baby doll outfits walking around the local park, and everywhere i went there were strange outfits to behold. In one of the local parks I watched a group of people tap dancing in a circle. I was wishing I had my shoes. I saw drummers, street dancers, and a young man with 5 metallic hula hoops. I walked around the electric city in akihabara, the asakusa shopping areas, the famous sony building. I have visited a number of shrines and temples and even found a quiet suburb where I took a break in a small bakery that served lima bean rolls and pumpkin pulp rolls. i had hoped to catch the end of the sumo tournament today but was sad to find out that the last day was yesterday. I'll just have to come back. I wish I had more time here! Tomorrow morning I plan to visit the fish market and go to a few obscure museums. One of which is dedicated to human parasites. My amoebas will be happy. Tomorrow afternoon I fly to Guangzhou, China and will be there for a day before I catch my flight to Kathmandu! I cant wait.

Here in Tokyo, I have been staying at the Anne Hostel, in Asakusabashi. I have stayed in dozens of hostels over the years, but none with down comforters! I have been sleeping like a baby, even in a 12-bed hostel room. In the mornings they serve breakfast, which has been helpful for me on my limited budget. I spend my evenings in the common room reading and writing and meeting people. The facilities are clean and the staff extremely helpful. If I return to Tokyo I will stay here again and reccommend it to anyone who is planning a getaway to Tokyo anytime soon.

See you in Nepal!

okinawa continued

elawlor — Tue, 18 Jan 2011 13:47:00 GMT

I am on Book 5 in the Harry Potter series now. I can't believe I've been missing out all these years. Needless to say, it has been overcast lately. I was supposed to go out diving all weekend to complete my boat and drift diver specialty courses, but the weather prevented that. Instead we spent the weekend reading, watching movies, and visiting some beautiful coastline sites. Yesterday we scrambled around some sharp coral on the coast and enjoyed the view while wearing down jackets.

I went on a number of solo adventures last week. I usually have a vague idea of where I'd like to end up but find myself following any english sign I find and usually make it to a castle ruin site. I visited 3 castle sites last week. The first two were unimpressive (after having been to egypt and the mayan ruins) but pleasant and with lovely views. The third site I visited, Shuri, is the most developed and famous site. I was the only blonde-haired person among hundreds. The castle had been reconstructed to hold shrine rooms and living spaces as they would have looked like during the Ryukyu dynasty a few hundred years ago. I also visited a lighthouse on a windy day and watched the ocean crash into the cliffs. Made it into downtown Naha and bought some pottery and wandered the hidden and endless marketplaces. Found the fascinating meat and fish section where I saw large bright blue and pink fish, crabs, octopi, lobsters and pigs. After buying some veg and fruit from a few cute old ladies I had my very first green bean milkshake. It was quite good, actually.

In the evenings we have been watching Harry Potter and eating chocolate fondue. Can't go wrong. I have a few days left here, then a couple days a in tokyo, a day in china and off to Kathmandu!

Photos: okinawa

elawlor — Tue, 18 Jan 2011 13:29:00 GMT

first 2 weeks

first week

elawlor — Mon, 10 Jan 2011 10:23:00 GMT

It has been a lovely first week of travels. I won't really start traveling until I leave the comforts of Okinawa, but I am greatly enjoying the time I have here for visiting and relaxing. The weather has been mostly dreary so I find myself curled up with a book most days before venturing out. Sarah and John have me hooked on Harry Potter. I am almost through book one and am hoping to read a few more in the next couple of weeks. It isn't often I can be free to just read and relax. Sarah and John have been wonderful hosts.

On Saturday we took a nice drive to the northern end of the island, where all the green is, and blue waters. Took a nice stroll to Hiji Falls, more of a tourist destination, but beautiful and refreshing to be out in the trees. Yesterday I went for my first dive on the island. It was kind of a comedy of errors. First I forget to rent fins and we had to return to the dive shop to retrieve them. We suit up in the light rain with booties, gloves and 5mm wetsuits. I have only ever been diving in the Caribbean on sunny days, using short-sleeved wetsuits so of course I underestimate the weight I need to descend. Luckily John had some extra weights for me to use and I was just barely able to get below the surface. I then had some trouble with my regulator making loud disturbing noises with each inhalation so I was able to practice switching regulators underwater straightaway. On top of that, my fins kept sliding off. I could only laugh. It was good to get a practice dive in before our boat and drift dive specialty dives this weekend. How embarrassing if I can't even get underwater. =) We saw a few cool creatures despite my clowning around with the gear: a green eel, large clam, and some of the largest starfish I've ever seen. Great to get out in the water again!

Last week Sarah and I visited their local petstore called: Pet Box where one can find your "favorite cat, favorite dog, or etcetera pet." Etcetera pets there were. We found hedgehogs, sea anemones, jellyfish, a large sad-looking turtle. We decided to check out the fish when we come across some strangely-patterned small white fish. I asked Sarah if they commonly drew on their fish here. No, she said. But sure enough, someone must of have thought no one was interested in plain white fish so they drew hearts, polka dots and stripes on the fish. I've never seen anything like it. We still aren't sure how they managed that one.

I have gone for a few walks around town, along the seawall and around town. I am fascinated by the elaborate vending machines at random spots. Sometimes I find one sitting alone in a parking lot, or in front of someone's house. I even discovered an aluminum pepsi can with a bottle-neck.

One day it was warm enough for ice cream so I take a break in an ice cream place and when I go to use the restroom I discovered, for the first time, the Japanese Super Toilet. I wasn't sure what it was at the time. There were lights, and buttons on the side and when I sat down I found the seat was warm, and not because someone had been using it before me. Apparently these super toilets are common in Japan. Most of them have a feature that makes a fake flushing noise since it is rude to hear someone tinkle. Some of them even spray you down and play music. I've seen some interesting toilets over the years, but nothing quite like the Super Toilet.

I have been getting used to driving on the left side of the road. Japanese people seem to drive slowly so I am in good company. I have two weeks left in Okinawa. I plan to continue reading Harry Potter, venture out for some sightseeing, and go on a few more dives. I hope you are all enjoying the new year.

made it safe

elawlor — Tue, 4 Jan 2011 09:05:00 GMT

I made it safe to okinawa and have been enjoying the comforts of the Freiberg's home for 2 days now. I haven't yet ventured out on my own but will do so soon. I started reading Into Thin Air for the second time and haven't been able to put it down. It was a long journey from the San Diego Amtrak at 6 am on friday, december 31 to the little okinawa airport at noon on the 2nd. I enjoyed a 14-hour flight from LAX to Shanghai, China. Breezed through a book and read three chinese movies. They were all subtitled so I didn't bother to listen. But even reading them in English was a challenge. I soon learned that "Don't in to house" means "Please don't come into my house without knocking." I arrived in Shanghai and received a full-page visa just to sit in the airport for another 14 hours. Sweet. I wasn't the only bum there, and had to fight to keep one of the benches without armrests. We zoomed past new year's in the air and I arrived in the evening of January 1st. It was a pleasant 2-hour flight to okinawa but I had a hard time getting through the border check since I hadn't bothered to get Sarah and John's address but when I showed them my hostel booking for Tokyo several weeks from now they allowed me into the country. They had been nice about it though, laughing at my predicament and lack of knowledge for where I was headed.

I went to school with my friend Sarah. We studied in Israel together and it has been fun to recall our adventures crossing Egyptian borders and ditching our tour guides in Jordan. We looked through our semester scrapbook and so many memories I had already forgotten were flooding back. We have gone out to some fun restaurants. At one place we order food from a vending machine and wait for it to be delivered to the table. Brilliant. Last night we went to a cute garlic restaurant. Sarah's husband John is working on his Dive Master so we will get to go for some dives while I am here. We tried going yesterday but the water was a little rough. Possibly a night dive tonight. It has been wonderful seeing them. I think I am adjusted to the time now and will wander off base to orient myself this morning. Happy new year! I kind of missed it this year, but am not in denial and realize that 2011 has indeed arrived. I will keep you posted with more stories as they come.

setting off again soon

elawlor — Wed, 22 Dec 2010 13:27:00 GMT

I had planned on NOT traveling outside of the US this year, to save money for my coming Continental Divide hike (summer 2011) and for future travels, but I always seem to find some reason to justify leaving the country again. When I found out it was no longer likely I'd get the job I was hoping for this winter, I started plotting alternatives. One was to finally visit Patagonia for a few months of hiking, another was to return to Guatemala for more spanish, and the third was to visit my friend Sarah in Okinawa and have my first introduction to Asia. In October I started looking up plane tickets and ordering lonely planet guides only to find that there would be no turning back. Once I'm set on something I have to follow through with it. And so I'm leaving in a week on a flight to Okinawa! After three weeks there I will make brief stops in Tokyo and China on my way to Kathmandu. I had thought about trying to see a few countries but I think I will fall in love with Nepal and feel that three months will only be an introduction. I will spend about a week in Kathmandu taking Nepali lessons to help communicate the rest of the time, then head over to Chitwan National Park to ride elephants. I will wwoof again on a remote farm for a few weeks to bide time for good trekking weather. The plan is to walk the Annapurna Circuit (3 weeks) and Everest Base Camp (4 weeks) in time to fly home April 26th. Pretty sweet. Then it's off to hike the CDT. I worked more than I ever have this year. From May to December with a month break in-between. Loved exploring the Denali wilderness and spending another fall in Yosemite. Good to be home for a little bit with my family in San Diego. I will try to update this as often as possible (probably twice a month). One week left to prepare all of my CDT resupply boxes and get ready to go again. I am always a little nervous before a trip but it is always worth it. Looking forward to being uncomfortable and seeing how my plans are drastically changed by the inevitable mysterious unknown factor of Travel.

one day left

elawlor — Sun, 18 Apr 2010 23:02:00 GMT

I have neglected this journal and feel its time to give a quick update since I will be flying home in a day! I spent a lovely month in Belize. Two weeks on an organic farm, one week making my own drum next to the water: only tourist in the town, 5 days at Caye Caulker getting my advanced diving certification and diving the BLUE HOLE, whale shark diving in Placencia, and camping in the jungle. I write to you now from Merida, Mexico. Spent the day on the Ruta Puuc and visited 5 mayan sites. I will visit a couple more tomorrow as I make my way to Cancun.

It has been an incredible trip. I am coming home with a better understanding of central american history and politics. I have a month of spanish school under my belt, Ive visited 15 mayan sites, have my ADVANCED open water dive certification and have made 18 dives, went to a weaving school and made my own scarf, carved my own drum and took a lesson from Emmeth Young, learned more organic gardening principles, hiked several volcanoes, and perhaps most importantly, have learned the art of resting in a hammock. I bought one the other day to make it a part of my everyday life.

I am flying home in time to make it to the ADZPCTKO, the official PCT kick off and reunion. I look forward to seeing my hiking friends. I had planned on hiking the first 500 miles before I started work in Yosemite but it looks like Ill be flying to Alaska next week to work in Denali NP for the summer.

About 300 couples of all ages are dancing outside in the square. There is some sort of fiesta happening. I find I want to stay longer wherever I am. I already have a list of things to do when I return to Guatemala, Mexico, Belize and Honduras. I am thinking of making a trip to South America next year but who knows? I am looking forward to working and seeing my family in just a couple days! I will add photos in the next week.

last day in guatemala

elawlor — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 22:48:00 GMT

Sorry for my silence. I haven´t had much internet time recently. I am in Flores, Guatemala and will take a bus back to Belise in the morning. I will be wwoofig for two weeks and diving the blue hole before heading to Mexico for some more mayan ruins and fly out of Cancun on April 20. The last few weeks have been wonderful. I spent a week with my aunt and uncle bev and jack in Antigua, Lake Atitlan, and Tikal. We spent some time shopping, eating, ad having good conversation. I walked up Volcan Pacaya and roasted marshamallows over some lava. After Bev and Jack left I spent 2.5 days and 15 hours at Tikal and found my new favorite hobby: napping on mayan ruins. After, I reunited with my spanish school friends Katie and Brook. We spent a day in El Remate hiking at a local park and geared up for our 5 day trek through the jungle to the El Mirador ruins. We had a wonderful, knowledgeable guide. Two Israelies and a German I had met in Honduras also joined us and we set off last thursday. Our guide, Raul, said we were his fastest group in the 82 times he´s been to el mirador. The jungle was hot and dry but the sunsets and sunrises from remote mayan temples every day made it worth it. We saw some incredible mayan art temples. Truly amazing. After our trek, Katie, Brook, Johannnes and I spent some time eating and watching documentaries in a hostel in Flores and took a bus down to Finca Ixobel for a couple days. It rained hard but we still walked two hours to the famous caves and swam through a large cave for a couple hours using candles and headlamps. Very cool. Today I said goodbye to Katie and Brook, my favorite hiking and traveling buddies and came back to Flores for one more day. Johannes and I took a boat over to an Island and visited a private museum with some icreible mayan relice. Pottery, instruments, skulls, jewelry. And we were able to touch and hold everything. Also listened to some german records. Very worth it. I will miss Guatemala, but am looking forward to some farming and diving in Belize. Just one month left, which doesn´t seem like much.

Photos: bev and jack´s visit

elawlor — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 07:08:00 GMT

antigua, atitlan, tikal

Photos: honduras

elawlor — Wed, 3 Mar 2010 09:01:00 GMT

diving and ruins