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Negombo to Sigiriya

ejkaplan51 — Sat, 27 Apr 2013 21:28:00 GMT

Getting off the plane at 05.20 in a strange and new place is never ideal but I had a lovely young man greet me. Rukmal was going to be driver and part-time guide for the next 5 days. We set off on the road and first stop for breakfast was Puttalam. The road side rest house was never going to be UAE 5-star luxury but it had everything that a weary traveller could need and was very clean. Filled with a wonderful breakfast of egg butties and a pot of tea (with cold milk!), it was back on the road for another 3 hours. I was in the lap of luxury in the back of my car and could comfortable nod off. Just as well as the driving conditions could scare even the bravest of souls. Do not travel on the roads in Sri Lanka if you are waiting for heart surgery! I was amazed at how greeen everything was and so tropical looking. Finally got to Anuradhapura and met my guide for the site.

The city is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is one of the oldest continuously used inhabited cities in the world and one of the eight World Heritage Sites of Sri Lanka. From the 4th century BC, it was the capital of the Sinhalese until the beginning of the 11th century AD. During this period it remained one of the most stable and durable centers of political power and urban life in South Asia. The ancient city, considered sacred to the Buddhist world, is today surrounded by monasteries covering an area of over sixteen square miles (40 km²).

I arrived in the middle of the day and it was really hot. As I had come straight from the airport, I had not been able to do the things I would have normally done before venturing out in the midday sun - like put sunscreen on. By the time I realised, the damage was done and for the first time in years, I got sunburn on the back of my neck and shoulders. As we were in such a holy site for the Buddhist religion, most of the places I visited required bare feet. Fine if the ground is cold/cool but not so fine when you could fry and egg on the stones! Looked like a peculiar version of Tom from a Tom & Jerry cartoon, tippy-toeing from shade to shade! Still, it was so interesting and very humbling to see all these wonderful buildings that have stood for so long.

After my visit, we went to my hotel, Eden Garden Hotel in Sigiriya. Lovely staff who were very friendly and helpful but it was undergoing rennovation which meant a bathroom which had been plastered but no tiles or finishing touches. Still, I had my own bathroom which was prefectly clean in my room which although a little shabby, was comfort to my weary body by the end of the day. Perfect for a Lion beer in the restaurant before dinner!

Photos: Moscow Spring 2012

ejkaplan51 — Wed, 18 Apr 2012 13:32:00 GMT

Follow my visit to Moscow.

Day 6

ejkaplan51 — Thu, 5 Apr 2012 20:36:00 GMT

I remember seeing a picture of St Basil's Cathedral when I was a child and being fascinated by the place. It was a cross between history mixing with a 'Hansel and Gretel' picture. I loved it! And in reality I was not disappointed. I never got tired of looking at it (as my photos will prove). The day I actually went inside was glorious. Once inside, I wandered around and then saw these rather steep steps. Oh dear, I thought. Am I going to make it up these? The steps were very ‘tall’ and were difficult with my vertically challenged pins. Anyway, I made it up to the "gallery level". This gallery links all the churches together and you can wander completely around the whole cathedral at this level. I wandered into one church and as I stepped in, I heard this beautiful religious singing. How wonderful I thought and a good PR exercise - but I couldn't find out where it was coming from. Clever tactic I thought. Eventually I went into the central dome - and here was the source of the music - a choir! Bliss!

Muscovites are a strange mix of Slavic sternness and pleasant helpfulness. They spit out almost as much as the Chinese (but not quite). You really have to watch where you are walking. They smoke like chimneys and with the slimmest ciggies I have seen anywhere. Although, in every restaurant or coffee shop I went into I was asked if I wanted smoking or non-smoking so I guess the times are changing. The few words of Russian I used were greeted with delightful smiles and genuine shows of appreciation that I had made the effort. For all you Brits reading this, I couldn't help smiling when they did speak to me in English - all I could think of was the meerkat advertisments for "Compare the Market Dot Com".

The days of queuing for a few cabbages are long gone. Every designer outlet you can think of is ever present in all the shopping malls and avenues. The GUM store will match any UAE shopping mall in terms of wealth and prestige. It was great to see the churches and cathedrals being restored to their former glory as well as many of the other old buildings as well. It was interesting to see people openly worshipping in churches which were frowned on in the old Soviet times. Interesting to see some habits dying hard though and I saw many older people still worshipping very quickly, in and a quick out of the church. Many of the churches have been completely restored and this is great but what a shame to have lost so many to mindless destruction - wherever in the world you are! Interestingly, the ones in the Kremlin remained unscathed .........

The day I was in the Kremlin, I stepped off the pavement so as to get a better angle on a photo – and was immediately met with a sharp blast on the whistle! A man was glaring at me and said something in Russian which I think meant “get back on the pavement” – at least I hope that’s what it meant! Some things have not changed!

Moscow was great – I was not disappointed in anything I did. My hotel was the biggest disappointment. I believe the people who write for property sales, wrote the hype for my hotel. It wasn’t untrue but was very jaded and in much need of a bit of TLC. Great position – 20 minutes to Red Square but without the heavy price tag. Was clean inside and had all the basics. Must say, I didn’t know it was possible to get wall/floor tiles in Scottish Tartan, but I do now! I guess I have been super spoilt by some of the places I have stayed in this part of the world - even so, a bit more of a service would have been great.

I would happily go back to Moscow and try to visit further afield and then go on to St Petersberg. It was well worth the visit! Dosvedanya!

Day 5

ejkaplan51 — Thu, 5 Apr 2012 20:18:00 GMT

Woke up to freezing temperatures. Went for my breakfast at 9am and it was -3^oC!!! Made my eyes run! I had breakfast in the hotel on the first morning and it was a bit spartan so I quickly found a coffee shop nearby. The place was open 24/7 and had a limited but good menu. I had a smoked salmon and cream cheese bagel. The smoked salmon was ome of the best I have tasted. I also indulged in a coffee/chocolate capucinno - lovely! You could choose between milk or dark chocolate and the dark was lovely....

I had one more postcard to send and had discovered that there was a post office quite close to the hotel. When I think of the journey the day before compared to what happened next! It literally was 5 minutes from the hotel and there was a very helpful young woman who made sure my card was stamped "par avion" before I gave her my 25 roubles for the stamp. Plus the box was inside the post office. The day before -remember I had to wander round and round to get my stamps - the box wasn't where they sold the stamps, but in the original place where they didn't sell stamps! But hey - I wouldn't have had a story to tell otherwise!

I left my hotel with my taxi driver to go to the airport. He had a lovely Chrysler saloon and the radio "FM radio Monte Carlo", played some great music. He was very polite and helpful. Check in was easy and quick, despite having to fill in a luggage tag to add to the one I already had on my case (!!??). The plane was 2/3 full and no-one in business class. Lots of room and smooth flight. Didn't like being in the flight holding pattern around Abu Dhabi for about 20 minutes. I mean when you get back, you just want to get back don't you? Hopped on to the Etihad coach to Al Ain and managed to snooze most of the way. My little car was waiting for me outside the Etihad offices and was home in about 15 minutes. Shower, tea, bed - in that order! Temperature - 24⁰ C midnight!

Day 4

ejkaplan51 — Wed, 4 Apr 2012 01:37:00 GMT

Woke up to snow and freezing cold winds. Was a good day to be on the bus tour. Was picked up at the Bolshoy Theatre and then went to Red Square, St Basil's Cathederal, Tretiakov Gallery, Christ the Saviour Cathedral, Gorky Park, Sparrow Hills, Moscow State University, Victory Park, New Maiden Convent and Cemetery, Arbat Ulista, White House and then back to the Kremlin. Dodged the snow showers and freezing cold wind. Went for lunch and then a tour of the Metro. Not for the faint hearted but managed to find the only 'looney tune' on the metro station. Definitely a sandwich short of a picnic! Cost me 100 roubles to get rid of him. Got to the post office, climbed to the second floor as per instructions and was told they didn't sell stamps there!! I had to go out of this part of the building and around the corner. The first part was really, really run down and smelt like a public toilet in places. Around the corner where I got my stamps was wonderful! Very modern, lots of displays - part of the philately exhibition. Guess where the post box was? Yep, you got it - around the corner where I started! Got back on the metro and looked at some of the stations. Quite stunning but my camera did not do them justice. Plus there were too many people.

I then went to the GUM store for a much needed cup of tea. I had spotted a lovely cup and saucer to add to my "tea cups from around the world" collection. I asked the price - 23000 roubles - about 600 Euros! Forget it! Finally went for dinner in a lovely restaurant. Never had food from Kyrgyzstan before - was very much like middle - eastern food. I guess there are heavy Persian influences. I had "wedding feast pilaf" and jolly yummy it was too! Bolshoy tonight for a first night performance of Der Rosencavalier. It was a great experience and although I would have preferred to have seen a ballet, it was thrilling!

Day 3

ejkaplan51 — Wed, 4 Apr 2012 01:13:00 GMT

Today was an even better day. The sun came out and Red Square was open. Walked down red square which is all cobbled. Must be uncomfortable when they do the military parades! All those high kicks must result in someone getting their butt kicked! Went to visit the Kremlin. Absolutely stunning cathedrals. Sadly the armoury was closed so didn't get to see the Faberge eggs - that would have been a nice Easter egg! Went for lunch in the GUM store in Red Square and then on to St Basil's Cathederal. Wow! Absolutely fabulous! What a treat. Everywhere I turn there are beautiful buildings. Did not bother with Lenin's Tomb. Didn't like him much when he was alive (not that I knew him) and certainly wouldn't queue to see his waxy formalized remains! The highlight of the day was St Basil's Cathederal. I saw a picture of it as a child and was mesmerized by it. Still feel the same!

On my way back to my hotel I had to walk down the oldest street in Moscow, Ulista Varvarka. I passed this way each day - twice - and got to see: Church of St George, Palace of the Romanov Boyars, the Old English Court, Church of St Maxim, Cathedral and Monastery of the Sign, and the Church of St Barbara. On the other side of the road was the Old Merchant's Chambers which is a rather splendid affair that looks like it should be visited by people in evening dress for a concert every night - but looks like no-one takes any notice of it and walks straight past! I went into a shop close to the Monastery of the Sign which sold religious icons and bread rolls! Strange combination, or maybe not? Thinking bread and fishes here!! Too obscure? Sorry!

I went into a restaurant on my way back to the hotel which had three different dining rooms - self-service, a la carte and the last one left me wondering..... food was good and very cheap! Called in the coffe shop lastly and had the most wonderful cup of hot chocolate. Was bliss in a cup!

Day 2

ejkaplan51 — Sun, 1 Apr 2012 21:12:00 GMT

Day 2 was spent trying to get to the Kremlin whilst Red Square was closed. Asked a Russian lady why it was closed and she said she had asked the guards but they didn't know either. When I eventually got the the ticket desk, the queue was horrendous. Any way, managed to circulate the Kremlin and St Basil's Cathedral. Today was very dull, cloudy and overcast and cold! Walked for about 8 hours so I kept reasonably warm. Okay I was very hot with all my layers which I had to strip of every time I went inside!!

Went to the GUM store, briefly to use the loo! Will go again on Tues. I also went to the Bolshoy, several churches, the Moscow River, the first English Consulate in Moscow, Metropol Hotel, and much more. Completely shattered but happy. Oh by the way, it is zero degrees!!!

Day 1

ejkaplan51 — Sun, 1 Apr 2012 21:02:00 GMT

Today was a day of traveling. Left desert at 5 am and arrived at Abu Dhabi airport to temps of 29 degC. Got to check in desk to find out that flight had closed 30 mins earlier (I was there at 6:50) even though the flight was 08:40. The staff told me to wait (I did for 1.5 hours at the check in desk)and eventually got the last seat on the plane - in business class!! Apparently, the Moscow flight had been downgraded - eventually I took this to mean "we have overbooked again but we are going to tell you that a smaller plane was sent to us"! Great flight although a bit windy and bumpy due to the strong winds we have been getting from Iraq and beyond.

Got to Moscow on time. My 'meet and greet' didn't show so had to get a cab. Had a 1.5 hour trip into the city. The half hour was the taxi driver trying to find the hotel. Credit it where it is due - he was very patient, very polite and we got there in the end. Was weird seeing well known brands in Cyrillic writing. Maltesers will never be the same again! Went to supermarket close by to get some supplies. Sat in bed wondering what to do on my first evening in town and woke up 3 hours later. Went to bed!!