Stories from the South Pacific

Photos: Kava will put hairs on your chest

charlotteemmaconnell — Thu, 8 Mar 2012 09:55:00 GMT

My attempt at drinking Kava

To kava or not to kava

charlotteemmaconnell — Thu, 8 Mar 2012 09:50:00 GMT

After arriving in Vanuatu it won't take long before you see, hear and taste kava. Taxi drivers will often ask you around three questions 'Where are you from?', 'Are you married?' and then of course 'Do you drink kava?'. For as long as Europeans have been harvesting grapes and drinking wine, so to have the pacific islanders been grinding up the root of this plant and enjoying the narcotic effects of Kava.

Kava is consumed throughout the pacific island cultures in Polynesia, Melanesia and Micronesia. In the Melanesian island nation of Vanuatu, kava was traditionally a ceremonial drink, only chiefs and respected men were allowed to drink the intoxicating liquid. Often if chiefs were arguing or there was some dispute to settle, kava would be served and its relaxing effects would help facilitate reconciliation. Since the country became independent, in 1980, drinking kava grew in popularity from ceremonial drink to today where it is the beverage of choice to end a working day with. Every day on almost every corner around 4.30pm onwards there is a kava bar or nakamal, which is a chief's meeting place, serving kava to locals, expats and tourists alike. The sedative drink is a great way to unwind and socialise.

Being a person who likes to try new things and believes in the philosophy of 'when in Rome...' I was eager to try kava from the moment I landed in Vanuatu. I had no idea what to expect so I recommend you go with someone who knows what they're doing, because there are some kava etiquette rules that should be observed.

Kava is not to be mistaken for beer or wine in the method of which it is consumed. Do not, I repeat do not sip kava, think of it as a large Tequila shot. Get in down as fast as you can it is not a flavour you would like savour. Also, the vessel in which kava is presented is a little unusual, it is served in shells. Whether that be a half coconut shell or a small bowl it is always referred to as a shell. They come in different sizes according to the cost. The most common sizes are the 50vt, 100vt, 150vt and 200vt shell. You don't often drink kava alone, when you go to the bar to buy a shell it is polite to ask around 'Whose up for a shell?'. And the best part about drinking kava is, shouting a round to your new found friends will only set you back a few dollars.

When the green murky liquid is poured into your shell be sure to grab a glass of water, juice or soft drink as a chaser. There is often an area designated to drinking kava, where you stand with your back to everyone and guzzle down the liquid as fast as you can, quickly followed by some spitting and gargling of your chosen chaser.

The taste of kava is a much discussed topic and can be a good conversation starter. It is somewhere between cucumber juice, pepper, clove oil , a wheatgrass shot and a pinch of dirt. It kind of reminds me of that taste you get in your mouth when you fall face first in a field of grass and dirt, its earthy and it makes you feel tough for trying it. Once the concoction enters your mouth your tongue will usually go a little numb and your face will involuntarily appear like a cat's bottom. Hence the need to stand with your back to everyone while you drink it. After the initial 'why on earth would anyone drink this awful bin-juice like substance' you'll feel a wave of euphoria wash over you as your muscles relax and your mind slows to a meditative state.

Kava can affect everyone differently so after a shell, sit quietly and talk amongst your new friends and it may be another hour or so before you have your next shell. The story sharing aspect of drinking kava is as important as the drinking. In Vanuatu, people are very generous and will offer you food, water, shelter and they only thing they ask in return; is a good story. In Bislama, the native language of Vanuatu, the sharing or stories is called 'storian' and it is an integral part of the culture. So sit back, relax and enjoy the good old fashioned story telling that takes place over kava.

There are also different degrees of strength in kava which is usually attributed to where the plant has been grown and how it has been prepared. The kava on the islands of Malekula is known to be some of the strongest of the Vanuatu islands. It is mostly stone-ground kava. The roots are ground up with stone, the juice is strained for pulp, a little water is added and then it is served. The first time I tried kava on Malekula, I was mesmerised by the stone grinding process. The young man grinding up the root was working up quite a sweat and once he was happy with his work, he added some water to the mix, took off his shirt and used it to strain out the pulp. Despite what you would think, the mix of sweaty shirt and freshly ground kava was brilliant, the best I've had. On Santo the kava is mostly machine kava which is prepared by cutting up the roots into small cubes and mixing it through a hand wound meat grinder, don't worry the grinder is primarily for kava not meat. Sometimes you can taste the metal in this style of kava but again you don't drink kava for the taste. In Tanna, kava was traditionally prepared by young boys chewing the root in their mouths and spitting it into a bowl. Lucky for me, woman are not allowed to drink this regurgitated-penguin-style kava on Tanna, but I hear it is very good. In Vila they mostly serve dried kava mixed with water as there isn't many kava crops on the island of Efate. The strength of dried kava is purely dependant on the kava bar serving you, it can be very strong or quite weak and this will differ from day to day.

Be mindful that kava bars are not a loud venues with dancing, flashing lights and people yelling at each other to be heard over blasting pop music. Kava bars are dimly lit, if lit at all, places where people sit and speak in soft tones. While you won't hear gregarious laughter or rambunctious squeals you will be overcome by the cacophony of spitting, grunting and general nasal noises.

In Vanuatu, unlike other pacific islands that love kava, after people consume kava quite a bit of spitting ensues. People will spit directly onto the ground so always be mindful of where you step and it is best not to put your bag down. In fact, if you drop something on the ground, leave it. There is no 3 second rule here, chances are whatever you have dropped is now glued to the ground with someone's mucous infused spit never to be seen of touched again.

While there are not many conclusive medical studies on kava most of the information you'll find is anecdotal. It is said to cause weight loss as it can cause a lack of appetite. It is also said that overuse and abuse can cause scaly skin and liver damage but this could also be contributed to the poor diets and malnutrition often found in the South Pacific. It is has been safely consumed in the Pacific for around 3,000 years and will continue to be. Give it a try and feel the effects for yourself.

Photos: Malekula Island

charlotteemmaconnell — Wed, 7 Mar 2012 16:19:00 GMT

Malekula Island of custom, cannibalism, culture and beautiful smiles

charlotteemmaconnell — Wed, 7 Mar 2012 16:14:00 GMT

From the moment you land on Malekula Island in Vanuatu you know you're in for an experience. The airport has no roof, no lights, no running water and no worries. The waiting lounge is the shaded area of a large tree on the ocean shore.

It's a short bumpy ride to our seaside bungalow, Amel Toro, owned by Rona who with 20 or so brothers and sisters has plenty of stories to share about her homeland.

As the sun is setting and the water turns a steely blue we spot a couple of turtles pop their heads up to greet us. We grab the traditional dug-out canoe, on offer for guests, and paddle out to catch another glimpse of our marine neighbour. Once we leave the shore, it's the view back to the island that captures our attention. Kids are splashing and playing around, dads are fishing and big mammas in colourful island dresses are washing clothes. All waves and smiles as they call out 'Hello Missus'.

Amel Toro also has a French influenced restaurant which expats have claimed has the best 'kaekae' food in Vanuatu, and they're not wrong. A spicy green papaya salad is followed by a delicious filet of steak served with fried wild yam in a crispy batter. It is mouth watering.

In the morning we travel by truck to Rano village in North East Malekula to see the custom dance of the Small Nambas tribe. There are two primary cultural groups on the island: Small Nambas and Big Nambas, originating from the size of the men’s nambas (penis sheath). Our tour guide Veronique explains to us in perfect English, as well as French, the traditional customs of her tribe.

"Before we started dancing for tourists, we hid like coconuts, we were shy and kept all the goodness hidden inside. But now we are open, we know how to show our best side and we're proud."

The pride is evident in the faces of each of the Rano custom dance group's faces. Veronique's eyes light up as she explains the spiritual significance of each dance.

As you watch the men and women dressed only in paint, leaves and woven palms you're transported back to a world of movement, music, dance and deep spiritual connection to each other and the land. Each movement, each drum beat has a meaning: preparing warriors for battle, celebrating victory or blessing a marriage.

After the dancers have finished, Veronique leads us to the coral covered shoreline to show us the traditional kitchen where everything has come from either the land or sea. Our plates are large leaves, our drinking water is delivered in bamboo cups and our food is prepared with stones and shells. As we try our hand at the incredibly laborious making of laplap (ground taro mixed with grated coconut and water) I worry that we'll be here until nightfall with empty stomachs at the rate we're progressing. Veronique then hands us our leaf plates and brings over our pre-prepared laplap steamed in bamboo stalks and soaked in fresh coconut milk. It's good and we're grateful.

Veronique's village is one of many in Malampa who are proud to share their ancestral way of life and her father, Chief Amedee, runs a custom school to ensure the knowledge of their ancestors are passed down for generations to come.

It's hard to find a glass of wine in Malekula but not a kava bar also known as a nakamal. And the kava here is amongst the best on the islands. Kava is a sedative drink made from the root of a plant and is heavily steeped in Melanesian culture, it is the customary 'after-work' drink in Vanuatu. Women aren't usually allowed to drink it but we're offered a half coconut shell filled with the murky greenish grey liquid and it's worth a try. Tasting something of a mixture between dirty cucumber juice and fermented lettuce milkshake Kava is not something to sip slowly. The effects are quite relaxing and it makes for a great conversation starter with the locals.

Malekula is the island known for being the site of the last acknowledged victim of cannibalism in 1969. Rather than shying away from this fact, the Department of Tourism is embracing Malekula's reputation and marketing it as the islands of cannibalism and custom.

The push for tourism has awakened and revitalised custom life for many tribes in Malekula. Elders who were once ashamed of their cannibalistic forefathers now take you to the old cannibal sites scattered with human bones and share stories unabashed. We listened to the elders with anticipation and fascination of a culture so far removed from our own.

Unlike the Port Vila resorts or the dive tours of Santo, there are no expatriate run tourism businesses in Malekula. It doesn't feel like the quasi-cultural experience you get at well established tourism posts, such as a temple visit in Bali surrounded by hundreds of other Australians tourists. This is the real Vanuatu. The people you interact with here are the custom land owners, the original inhabitants. The money you spend in Malekula goes to the people in Malekula to improve their livelihoods and provide funds for their children's education. You get a real sense that your part of a community here, you're not the outsider but more like a guest and at the end of your stay you'll leave as a friend.

How to get there:

Virgin and Air Vanuatu fly to Vanuatu daily from Australia

There are daily flights with Air Vanuatu from Santo and Port Vila to Malekula and there is also the Big Sista Ferry which travels between the ports once a week.

What to bring:

· Camera

· Mosquito repellent and possibly anti-malarial drugs - there is some incidence of malaria in Malekula

· Modest clothing - Best advice here is to avoid tight clothing, cover your shoulders and wear skirts or pants long enough to cover your knees.

· Cards or a gameboard or ball- a great way to interact with the local kids is to play a game with them and then leave it behind as a gift.

· Don't really need your phone or laptop - most of the time in Malekula we didn't have phone reception or internet access but we did have an abundance of friendly people willing to storian (share stories) with you.

Information about Malekula

Shaped like a sitting dog, Malekula is the second largest island of Vanuatu and the most diverse, culturally and linguistically, with over thirty distinct languages spoken, and some of the best custom dances come from the island.

The interior of Malekula is mountainous and forest-covered with good walking and bird watching. There are old cannibal sites hidden in the bush on north Malekula and an estimated population of about 25,000 on the coastal areas and around 1,500 in the rugged interior. The villagers are exceptionally friendly and enjoy sharing their proud cultural heritage with visitors.

Neighbouring islands such as Maskelynes and other small offshore islands along the east coast of Malekula have sand beaches and coral reefs with amazing snorkelling and diving.