Cath's travels

Never give your passport to a Russian

catherine_haf — Tue, 13 Aug 2013 11:45:00 GMT

With every slowly passing mile there is definitely a sense of leaving Asia and entering Europe. Bye bye banana trees and coconuts, motorbikes and elephants, hello Siberian wolves, forests and wrinkly old ladies in wooly cardigans. Feet nicely propped up in a wood cabin on the shores of Lake Baikal - so beautiful and huge! Can't see the edge! Apparently if all the world's fresh water ran out tomorrow the entire world's population could live off Baikal's water to 40 years! Amazing hey?! Plus there was an earthquake in 1959 measuring 9.5 on the richter scale - didn't know that was even possible. Well, hopefully neither will happen in the next few days, so gonna enjoy the lake's grilled fish and lovely misty mornings.

So what's the story so far? Last update was China? Well, traveling in China with no lingo was a piece of piss - I mean that in the actual sense - ithe whole place smells of piss. But thoroughly enjoyed those three weeks. Nice people and lovely things to see.

Oh yes the list of breakdowns. No further transport mishaps to report so we're doing well so far. 37 train ride in an open carrige from Kunming to Beijing went swimmingly. The ipad was most useful in drowning out the sound of Chinese people eating - god bless you Steve Jobs - and made friends with nice mother and son who looked after me, stuffing me with biscuits and longan.

Beijing was fuckin awesome but HOT HOT HOT! Forbidden City (actually went in this time) amazing I thought. Full of Chinese tourists looking as if they were going to pass out, melting into sweaty heaps on the floor.

Next stop was Ulan Bator, which, given that every one I met said was a dangerous, rough, disgusting, vile city, I actually quite liked! Nice old buildings nestled in between soviet blocks and Dubai style skyscrapers. Did the obligatory yurt stay in a national park, and horse riding which I thoroughly enjoyed - gave me an idea for my next trip - horse riding across..., well any country really - USA too ambitious? Wanna be a cowgirl!

So, currently on the shores of Lake Baikal and looking forward to my 32nd birfday! How shall I celebrate? Copious amounts of vodka and cheap cigarettes sounds good.

The trip itself - yes, the Trans Mongolian railway. Aaaah, it's everything you would imagine. Speed wise very slow but romantically very moving. Had super drunken fun time on the Beijing - Ulan Bator route, did none of the mature stuff I'd planned, like all the reading and cross-stitch and generally being thoughtful, looking out the window in deep contemplation. The Ulan Bator route was the time for that - made good headway into Anna Karenina (have tried to read that bloody book three times and if I can't read it on this train in Russia I can't read it anywhere; although the more I read the more I remember why I gave up on it twice. Is it possibly the most overrated book in the English language? Or is that the Great Gatsby...?)

So next stop Moscow - ooh, sexy rusky capital city! Although may not make it - have broken the number one rule of travel by giving my passport to a Russian. Hmmm, may have to live here for ever as a Baikal fishing babushka. Sounds nice actually.

Hey this is Asia - or is it me?

catherine_haf — Fri, 2 Aug 2013 22:30:00 GMT

So it's three weeks into the road trip and am still alive, healthy and happy. Facebook proxy organized, tickets bookends to Beijing, pizza and beer devoured, so feeling ready for second entry.

Currently in Lijiang in Yunnan province - ancient Naxi town beauty, but of course comes with the downside of thousands of snappy happy, loud tourists. Have learnt the Chinese skill of elbowing innocent children and old ladies to get past the throng. Traveling makes a person so considerate! Off to kunming and then to Beijing Tomorrow yay! Train leaves Friday night, arrive Friday morning....hmmm...what shall I do with my time? Have my lovely old lady cross-stitch sewing (ha ha predictive text comes out spewing! That will probably happen too). The theme is baking. Fairy cake done. I think it's a rolling pin next. Wow I'm trendy.

Talking of trains, my travels from Ko Samui up the Mekong has been a catalogue of disasters. Here is a breakdown of my tranport events for the last two weeks:

1. Motorbike in Ko Samui - flat battery

2. Train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai - breaks down.

3. Boat from Thailand to Luang Prabang - engine floods. Breaks down

4. Motorbike in Luang Prabang - flat tyre

5. Sleeper bus from Luang Prabang to Kunming, China - truck fallen over a cliff. Hold up 5 hours.

6. Push bike in Dali - flat tyre.

As far as I'm concerned, a 6 out of 10 journey fuck up rate is pretty bad - there's only so long you can tell yourself 'hey, this is Asia' before you start getting worried about bad karma/evil curse/simple bad luck. Hopefully the evil spirits have had their fun and will move onto some other poor undeserving.

So the nice things - the Mekong is still mighty, and despite the engine trouble had a super time drinking Lao beer with teenage backpackers on the boat to Luang Prabang (probably old pupils from Uk..) and landed in lovely LP pissed and dirty - my favorite state. Lovely motorbike trips to waterfalls, gin and tonic on the banks of the Mekong. What's not to love?!

But unfortunately the schedule bullied me into heading towards China, and am thoroughly enjoying the weirdly liberating experience of not speaking a word of the lingo. Tiger leaping gorge - tick. Dali ethno-tat shopping - tick. Flirting with a cute backpacker - double tick...

So next entry will probably be fromthe Forbidden City or the shores of Lake Baikal, or a Siberian gulag...who knows....?

Thailand - the journey begins

catherine_haf — Wed, 17 Jul 2013 22:50:00 GMT

So, after a stunning sunning four days in a bootifull house by the beach in ko phangan, it's now time to start the challenge - from Penang to London (or Aberaeron, depending on cash and energy), all overland. Train, tuk tuk (eughh), bus, car, motorbike, horse, camel..... any mode of transport really. But NO flights allowed. 7 or 8 weeks of zipping across Asia into Europe, including my birthday on lake Baikal, motorbike rides in Laos, pandas and pagodas in china, vodka tales in Russia, opera in Vienna and wine in France... Oh the romance!

The challenge is already showing its cracks though, as my train ticket to Chiang mai tonight is not a lovely cosy sleeper with a mini reading light and comfy blanket - those are all sold out. So am now looking forward to twelve hours in a Fecking seat. Reclining and leather so not too hideous. Still, not the romantic entry into Chiang mai I planned. Bangkok in two days has exhausted me so I will probably sleep the whole time anyway. The 9am appointment with the Mongolian embassy almost didn't happen thanks to Kao San road drinking session with Lauren Perkins - both still the same - Lauren still lovely, kao San road still disgusting.

So, am good to Go. Visas all stamped proudly in the passport. Stocked up on Imodium and cigarettes. Next stop Chiang Mai hurrah!

Snooty Ooty

catherine_haf — Thu, 22 Jul 2010 00:05:00 GMT

Back in Tamil Nadu and have returned to the horrors of an Indian town. Kerala was a different world. Fort Cochin, was bliss, admittedly not at all an Indian town - portuguese n dutch architecture and even a 'Jew town' as it was called. Goats filling up the streets instead of nasty auto rickshaws, coffee shops, easy strolling along the seafront, non-seedy bars where women can drink woohoo! Backpacker planet.

Anyway, back into the 'real' world of traffic and horns and fumes and cesspit streets woohoo. GORGEOUS train ride up to Ooty today, a UNESCO toy train chuffing it's way up the mountain, past tea plantations, banana plantations, misty mountains and cutie kids waving at us.

Gorgousness stops as soon as you get off the train however, and am grabbing onto the excuse that I have no hiking boots, waterproofs, warm clothing, everything essential for hiking, so I can't possibly go. So heading off to Mysore instead for some more city punishment, but sandalwood is made there so will bury my face in a vat to make the nasty smells go away.

Toodles

Hill station bliss

catherine_haf — Mon, 12 Jul 2010 20:48:00 GMT

So, day six and have not stopped for breath (poss coz of gross car fumes eugh!). It's been templetastic and manic!!! Seen temples at Chidambaram awopbamboom!, Thanjavor, Mamallapuram, Tiruchirappalli...oh my word! Palaces, Rock forts, the senses cannot rest!! Stayed in the most dingy place ever which is saying something. The towns were generally pretty grim but so hexciting.

Was bound for Madurai for more city craziness but as the train wasn't due for another 4 hours, decided to head to the hills like all the Raj brits did. So, 5 hour bus journey to Kodaicanal which is up up up windy roads, and near the border with Kerala - next stop maybe.

Stunning rolling hills with mist and rainforest walks ahhh!! I can relax, do my nails, write postcards, read my book, breathe clean air, drink tea - which OMG is the most delicious thing! Just like mamgu makes it.

Anyway, just gonna enjoy a total zone out till the next city. It is cold and lush and I may spend the next three weeks here. Blog may get boring tho.

Toodles xxc

Just arrived and surviving

catherine_haf — Thu, 8 Jul 2010 23:37:00 GMT

Ok so two days into the grand India tour and am still standing and feeling healthy. Flew into Chennai eughh what a place! Nasty air pollution made me sneeze all day, and very very chaotic, fun for a bit, but eventually became a bit too mad.

So, made a quick dash to Mallamapuram - lots of temples and stone carvings and bass reliefs and monolithic structures to see. V beautiful. Plus am truly in the backpacking scene again woohoo! Banana pancakes anyone?

Heading off to Pondy tomoz, maybe will stay for a few days with day trips here and there, and then on to who knows where. Weather brill so far - actually cold - no aircon all of last night!

People very friendly, even tho much staring is happening. Oh well, it's a good excuse to dress skanky and not wear make up and other such frivolities.

The Final Continent

catherine_haf — Sat, 25 Oct 2008 00:50:00 GMT

Well well well, after a year of just saying in passing, ´yeah, then I fly to South America' it´s actually happening! Currently in a cutsie little town north of Sandiago in Chille, called La Serena, and it may as well be in Catalonia or somewhere - very atmospheric and stylish and pretty. Off further north tomorrow, to the Atacama desert, then into Bolivia ooo-er.

Really liked Sandiago - so many travellers write it off, but there were loads of cool areas with bookshops and caffs and markets - again, could easily have been Barcelona. First night was spend eating empanadas and drinking Cervezas with a welsh girl which was great boyo.

So then, New Zealand. wow what a place!! The South Island was particularly fantastic, although I didn´t actually do any trips or activities (next time round when I have dinero). I just drove round and round. Picked up a hitchiker who turned out not to be a murderer, but a cool rubric cube genius South African guy working his way round Kiwi kiwi on the kindness of others.So we made our way round the island, picking up a german guy on the way. Cool times.

North Island cool as well, but the weather was a bit dodge- cancelling the only activity I actually planned - the Tongarirro crossing, which is a funky volcano walk. Dammit. Next time next time.

So on my final three weeks. Am a little worried about a tooth ache that´s been bugging me for a week or so. Just bloody typical it flares up in this country. I think I´ll do some self remedy with my fave combo of gin swigging and frozen peas. Sorted. Then will face the music back home.

OMG OMG!!!!!!

catherine_haf — Tue, 14 Oct 2008 16:11:00 GMT

Wow what a place!!! New Zealand has blown me away!!! Almost every place has been awe inspiring and absolutely bootiful. Future plans definitely involving this country.

Currently in North Island in a lovely sea side town - enjoyed fush n chups on the beach - my first eve meal which doesn't involve 2 minute noodles or a quick buttie. Yummy!!!

Driving heverywhere and oh it's so brill!!! Although very dangerouse coz I spend most my time gaping at the scenery. Dammit credit running out......

Kiwi kiwi

catherine_haf — Tue, 23 Sep 2008 14:42:00 GMT

Ahhhh all is calm here in New Zealand. Flew over 'the alps' into Christchurch yesterday, and after manic 'can do' 'that's amazing' oz, New Zealand seems so peaceful and calm. Half thought of changing my ticket so I could stay here. But come on Cath - it's only been a day.

Gonna hire a car and drive my way round the valleys. Feel like travelling solo for a bit, and not in the mood for crazy 'hi five!!!!' tour busses.

Had super time in Australia. Really enjoyed the diving, and went to some gorgeous places along the coast. Two weeks with bro in Britz van was a real treat. Top moment - driving across Sydney harbour bridge dancing to 'Down Under'.

To dive or not to dive?

catherine_haf — Mon, 25 Aug 2008 10:46:00 GMT

Ok, so the dilema is - should I do a diving course in the cold winter weather, where it's not great coral but very cheap? Hmmmm... I went 7 months in Thailand without even thinking of doing a dive, and now the though hits me in a freezing windy island. Also didn't even do it up in the north where it's the best in the bloody world. Dammit dammit!

Managed to have a not too depressing birthday by treating myself to a snorkelling trip which was an amazing(albeit slightly short sighted) thing! Didn't find nemo but saw a giant clam.

Currently in Magnetic Island, having been to Cape Tribulation (oh how I loved it), and Mission Beach. I think my current hostel is hosting a year 12 school trip or something - surrounded by bonny faced teens. I should rethink my accommodation strategy cos it's not fun.

What else? Missing Asia BIG time still. Really looking forward to my bro coming out - road trip/cath and kim here we come!

He just smiled and gave me a vegemite sandwich

catherine_haf — Sat, 9 Aug 2008 18:55:00 GMT

Well, last entry was a million years ago. On next leg of my year in exile, and spent a few days in Darwin, the top end of Oz. Awsome friendly people!!! The houses are exactly the kind of rubbish pre-fab jobbies you see in Home and Away - had lunch in 'The caravan park" woohoo!

Off to Cairns early, as Ayers Rock was way too expensive, plus as on Auzzie said ' It's just a rock'. Mabye I'll live to regret it, but my bank balance will thank me.

Miss Asia big time - since Vietnam, went to Laos (for a five day sleeping/reading/hammok extravagansa in the Four Thousand Islands) - bliss!

Then popped into Cambodia - supposedly the highlight of my trip - the place I was looking forward to the most - ended up doing nothing but watching films, eating shite wester food, drinking gross whiskey in a pink bucket - but also met some brilliant people and had a FAB time!! Surrounded by Irish people - twas muchos fun!

Following Cambodian carnage, went to Malaysia to meet the parents woohoo! Stayed in plush hotels - hotels not hostels, and had a bath oh my god!!! Was great to see them and spent two weeks in their indulgent company. Then went to Borneo - didn't see much but it was fun!!

So now in the land down under! V expensive - spend 100 quid in to days shit shit shit!! Trying to think of genius ideas for saving money - may buy a penny whistle and dance my way down the east coast.

Gallery: Bye Bye Thailand

catherine_haf — Sun, 29 Jun 2008 22:25:00 GMT

Down the dragon

catherine_haf — Wed, 25 Jun 2008 21:43:00 GMT

Well, am one week and a bit into my Vietnam odyssey and have been soooo lucky with everything - weather, friends, being shafted by touts, not to mention the motorbikes....

Arrived well excited in Hanoi, and spent a happy day there, wandering the streets, every step bringing me to within an inch of my life - the vietnamese are the CRAZIEST drivers I have ever known. Have had one or two near death 'incidents' on a bike myself over the years - knocked over, 8 storey pot plant, Chiang Mai moat at 4.00 am... but none of them compare to a ten minute ride on a motorvike in Hanoi. Anyway, went to a few museums and saw Uncle Ho's body )wax work they say.)and a crappy museum of Ho Chi Minh (hope this isn't screened). Hanoi very nice, especially the old quarter - nice colonial street, but the motorbikes and lack of pavement make it a 'potential deeeeth traaaap'.

Spent three days in Halong Bay oh my word!!!!!! Swimming, kayaking, cycling, endless squid munching, sunbathing....so many fabulous moments!!! Weather crappy on first day, but booootiful on second and third day. Spend first night on boat and second in Cat Ba Island. Gorgeous clear blue seas with huge limestone karsts everywhere. Awsome.

Then, with my new fab friend, Nicole, went on an overnighter to Hue. Coolio little city - visited mini Forbidden Palace, a few tombs, went to a 100% vietnamese beach (lots of stares and calls) we were like celebs I tell you! Or mabye more like freaks. Then Demilitarized zone (Vietnam War US army base) - a no-man's land strip dividing North and South - most time spent on a hot non AC bus, but saw some cool things like the tunnels which the locals lived in for 5 years. I think it deepened my understanding of the Vietnam war a bit.

Have just returned now from a two day motorbike adventure in Bach Ma National park about 40k south of Jue along the DANGEROUS highway 1. Shitting hell we nearly died! but twas soo exciting! Feel like a true asian driver now - no rules and no worries, Woohoo!!

Bach Ma was gorge as!!! After a HOT and difficult 17k walk up (started in the midday sun oops!) we had a great view of the South China sea and the central highlands. Blue and misty with lots of butterflies. Woke up at 4.00 to walk to the summit to see the sunries. Nice! Cheers for the tip Lauren! Back in Hue now for a slap up meal and some much needed AC and HBO.

Off to Hoi-an tommorrow - the final leg of Vietnam boo! Hopefully will be a treat with lots of shopping and beach bumming, plus more motorbike driving. Love love love!!

Have found Vietnam a hard edged place - less 'pretty' than Thailand, what with history I guess. But people v friendly in the countryside.

Trying to upload pikkies and phone mum and dad through skype but none are happening. Mabye will give up and head for some 20p beer.

Till next time in Laos .............

Goodbye to Thailand

catherine_haf — Sun, 15 Jun 2008 12:30:00 GMT

Fuck fuck fuck wrote a nice, fairly sentimental story about leaving Thailand and the bloody internet went down. Bloody Bangkok.

Anyway, it's my last day in Thailand Boo! Was utterly depressed yesterday - the thought of leaving Chiang Mai was too terrible!!! AUA, Lauren, Kat, Sally, Tony will miss oo all xxxxxxxxxx!!!!!! Although the absolute heart wrenching moment was when I gave my bike back to shop squish squish!!!! How I loved that bike. It did puurr so. Had to wear my new sunglasses to cover my rather puffy eyes, a la Jacki O of course.

Train journey lots of fun. Swigged yummy strawberry wine (cheers Kat!)with some nice travellers (wow they do exist!) and put the world to rights. Got chucked out of the restaurant car though, coz we didn't buy any food (peng maak) and then got shushed in the corridor. What a nusiance we made of ourselves. Sorry fellow farangs!!!

Currently in minging Nana area of Bangkok, surrounded by bars called 'Bigboy' and 'Sucky sucky'. Grim as!!!! My hotel is gorge!!!! It is 50's stylie. I truly should have been born in this period.

Anyway, leaving Thailand tommorrow, embarking on next leg of trip. Woohoo!! Very sad to leave, but v happy I had such a great experience and met lots of gorgeous people (I'm talking about Joe obviously Lauren).

Sawadee kaa Thailand!!!!!!!!!!

Gallery: Pilgrimage

catherine_haf — Sun, 25 May 2008 14:35:00 GMT

Gallery: Luang Prabang

catherine_haf — Sat, 3 May 2008 15:02:00 GMT

Up and down the Mekong

From the Land of a million elephants

catherine_haf — Tue, 15 Apr 2008 14:37:00 GMT

Man it's crazy here in Luang Prabang! After a gorgeous two day boat trip along the mighty Mekong river (sore arse and sunburn to show for it) landed in LP, greeted by crazy arsed children throwing flour and water. It's the Buddhist lunar new year, Sonkran, where people literally cool off and go nuts for a week. The prospect of crazy Thais with water pistols did not appeal, so decided to treat myself to a relaxing (that idea's out the window) holiday here in Laos.

Arrived at 5.00 on sunday, and like a cock didn't book anywhere in advance, so spent about an hour being told 'sorry full!'. God that's depressing. Anyway, found somewhere which cost a day's wages, and now have moved into a much better, cheaper place in the centre. Spent all day yesterday just drinking, eating, getting wet, although I was unarmed and totally defenceless. Twas much fun. Now pretty knackered, and am considering having a massage and a nap before heading out to carnage again. Will try to visit the caves and some villages tomorrow... we will see. Tempted to just be a holiday bum and do nothing for the whole time.

Toodles

Gallery: Me Ruth and other animals

catherine_haf — Sun, 24 Feb 2008 22:29:00 GMT

Various

I should have known better

catherine_haf — Mon, 18 Feb 2008 01:35:00 GMT

So what's new? last time I wrote had come back from crazy la la meditation retreat. Happy to say am back in the real world - Have an apartment (oh it is a beauty!), a bike (not so much) a few jobs here and there...

Trying to live off my earnings which so far amounts to about ten pounds. Really enjoying teaching little kids actually, which I never expected. One girl wears her pajamas to school oh how cute!!! Teaching piano to a handful of kids also which is piss easy. Finding work is not as easy as I expected, so am ashamed to say applied to the WORST school in Chiang Mai (you know who you are) purely out of necessity. God is's a cesspit of awfullness. They really don't care about the teachers and their workbooks are total crap. Plus pay is pretty bad. But hey ho, it's work.

Currently in Chiang Rai doing my Visa run. It's like a mini Chiang Mai, with lots of farangs (most of them DOB's - dirty old bastards on the hunt of a bit of ...[insert your own word] off to Burma tommorrow which will be very hinteresting.

Cheerio for now

xxxxxxx

Story only called 'I should have known better' cos the Beatles song has just come on the radio how cool!!!!!!!! Any music (especially the beatles is so precious)

Gallery: Xmas, med and suk.

catherine_haf — Fri, 18 Jan 2008 15:26:00 GMT