CarolinaRossetti

They come in all recipes. Promise to cure all maladies. You may eat or drink them, bathe with them, carry some around in your purse. One cheeky street vendor strongly suggested - "without a doubt" - the best was to scrub one’s private parts with a generous batch. Some people may use them for seasoning.

The "miraculous herbs" are an unquestioned institution in Belém do Pará.

Amazon herbs have long served generations in all medical - and other - purposes. They are said to cure diabetes, lower blood pressure, combat asthma and all sorts of rashes, boils and blisters. Enhancing one’s sex life or preventing a loved one from cheating are some of the alleged benefits.

The herbs can be found in the hundred-year-old Ver-o-Peso Market, the traditional fishmarket surrounded by Guamá River’s muddy waters and the colonial mansions of 16th century Belém.

Here, in the largest metropolis of the Amazon region, the secular herb trade flourishes.

Shabby shops and street stands hang them all around. Displayed in constellations of different shapes, textures and scents, the herbs are sold in natura or processed.

In their leafy form, they resemble watercress, chard or, at times, arugula. Transformed into beverages of red, green and yellow coloration, they appear unreliable potions.

With a singular high pitched voice and heavy northern accent, a middle-aged vendor called Dona Nazaré brags about her handmade herb mixes for all to hear. She guarantees success in attracting a shy suitor or even arrange marriage for women over their thirties.

Hence the miraculous reputation of the Amazon herbs. Hence the high prestige of the herb traders.

Nazaré proudly shows me the best from her personal selection, as she describes the lively nicknames: Corre atrás de Mim (Run After Me), Chora nos meus Pés (Cry at My Feet) e Não me Larga (Don’t Leave Me) are some of the bestsellers.

For aches of all sorts, there is a proper herb available in the Ver-o-Peso Market. But be sure to ask a specialist first, recommends good-hearted Nazaré. “No self-medicating”. A wrong prescription may end in disaster. Constipation, broken vows or love lost.

As I leave the stand in a hurry with a heavy bag for all purposes, having left behind all my secrets, a last advice. “Be sure to do exactly what I said, girl. The power of the herbs may not be taken lightly”.

She waves and giggles as I turn away. Immediately, I feel myself blushing.