My thoughts about . . .

Forgiving Body . . . but what about the mind?

carol — Sun, 20 Jun 2010 17:16:00 GMT

After walking 25km or so, I was fine.. until I stopped. I felt like I could keep going but the the minute I got to the hotel and took off my Nikes, my legs and back ached. Each time I thought I would rest for an hour or so but that usually turned into the rest of the evening. When I got up during the night to go to the bathroom, I could barely walk, feeling every single bone in my hips, back, legs and ankles. Oddly enough, my feet were fine. “How am I going to walk tomorrow morning?” was the constant question as I dropped off quickly to sleep.

The next morning I would move about quickly, anxious to get on my Way, without even noticing any pain. It was only til I was 4 or 5 km into my walk, that I remembered the previous night's question. I had to really concentrate -- since I am fine now,was I really in that much pain last night or was it my imagination??

It is amazing how I treat my body—the junk I put in it - and it still does what I want it to do. How long can this go on? I am thankful that my body is so forgiving. The pains from the day before disappear. My short memory helps with this as well. Every morning it is the same... I am surprised how I can walk fine, pain free whereas less than 12 hours I ago I was shuffling around like a 1000 year old relic.

I wonder why my body forgives so easily when my mind doesn't.

"Are you on the Camino?"

carol — Mon, 14 Jun 2010 23:51:00 GMT

On day 1, a wiry French guy asked me this and I responded defensively. “I did 100km last year. I think I can do 90km this time.” When 2 Spanish guys asked me, I laughed and just said, 'si'

Trying to be objective about it, I can see where the question comes from. I don't look the part. First of all, most walkers are in shape, hauling oversize backpacks and carrying a walking stick or two. I am out of shape, wearing a small day pack and oversize black sunglasses. Add a jean jacket, big pink scarf, some jewelry and it looks like I am going to the mall.

As I walked a couple of hours with two guys from Barcelona, I explained my attire. The reason for the scarf is three-fold—protect from the sun, mop sweat from my brow and dry my hands after washing them. I added that I hadn't even realized the jewelry since I have been wearing the same 6 rings and 4 bracelets for months now. The jean jacket was a fesseria.. As soon as I landed in Santiago de Compostela, I remembered the rain/wind jacket that I had left at home.

They admitted they weren't typical pilgrims either albeit they had packs and sticks. They stay up late at night talking, smoking cigars and drinking cerveza and then have a leisurely breakfast and don't get on the Way until late morning.

Talking about it on our Way, the three of us agreed that whatever our atypical behaviors may be, we were also typical pilgrims in that we take time for reflection and inspiration. Conclusion--It's your Way, do it any Way you want.

To(e)ward the End of the World

carol — Sun, 13 Jun 2010 02:50:00 GMT

A week before my departure and I had a toe problem. A big one—and my big toe. Man oh man, you wouldn't believe the pain I experienced even when a sheet was placed lightly over my big right toe. How was I going to walk the 90km on the Camino Finisterra if I couldn't walk to the corner coffee bar for my cappuccino?

I guess it started about a month ago but I chose to ignore it. Plus, the pain wasn't that bad. Scheduled to leave for Santiago de Compostela in less than 7 days, I could no longer ignore it...and the pain was that bad. It had gotten worse over the last month

I thought it was a ingrown nail but my new! pedicurist, Luca, aka Miracle Worker assured me it was not. The Miracle Worker performed just that – a miracle. After an hour sitting in his chair, I got up and walked out pain free.

I hadn't even placed a foot on St James Way yet and a miracle had already taken place.

Ready . . Set . . Walk

carol — Fri, 11 Jun 2010 03:41:00 GMT

Gearing to go... Like last June, I will head to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in NW Spain. I will walk about 90km from S de C to Finisterre, the End of the World. The day before leaving I noticed an ad on the back of a bus. How could I have not noticed it before today especially considering I am always on my motorino stuck behind a city bus? Ultreia! tutti a Santiago

Not that I had many doubts but I definitely felt like someone was speaking to me. My apprehension last year was for the unknown. This time around, reading that there aren't many pilgrims on this part of St James Way, I wondered what would happen if I needed help. Yes, some over analyzing going on here.

Reading Shirley MacLaine's book about her experience on the Camino (shout out to Sharon who told me about it!), I could understand last year's experience even better. OK, her Way was a little more 'out there' compared to mine but I could understand where she was coming from. I understood the clarity and lucidity that is gained on the Way. I want that again. I need to get rid of all the 'chatter' in my head. I need to clear my mind of the constant, overloading every day crap that clutters and dirties and gets everything out of focus. I need to walk away from all that . . . and it'll take me 4 days and about 90km to do so. Let's hope it is that easy.

All the WAY!

carol — Wed, 17 Jun 2009 08:36:00 GMT

As I got closer and closer to Km 0, my anticipation and excitement rose. A few pit stops on the Way were my only stops. I was on a mission. Coming over Monte Gozo, about 3kms away from destination, everything changed. Excitement and anticipation both disappeared.

It was such a uninspiring walk. Garry from Spanish Adventures included this in his notes to me but I didn't really pay attention. Well, he was right. It was a boring, disappointing and seemingly never-ending 3km. Those 3km, which felt like 20, were on a major thoroughfare with shops, stores, people, chaos. Ok, I might be exaggerating. It wasn't that chaotic but compared to my last week being in an enchanted forest, it was. I just wanted to get my Compostela at the pilgrim's office and go to the Cathedral.

Things changed when I walked into the Cathedral. It was uplifting and inspiring to see a church so packed. It was standing room only. Most of the mass was in Spanish. I could get about 40% but in any case, the inspiration came not from the homily but from the hundreds (or maybe it was thousands?) of people in the same place all having had a similar experience. Despite the depressing Way to the Cathedral, the Way out was satisfying, rewarding and uplifting.

Show me the WAY

carol — Wed, 17 Jun 2009 00:22:00 GMT

So, I arrived at Santiago de Compostela today before noon as planned. I wrote another entry before stepping out this morn. Well fortunately, there were two other early birds this morning, a French couple. If it hadn't been for them, I would have taken the wrong turn for sure. It was kind of dark but that wasn't the problem. The problem was with signage.. or the lack of a marker or arrow when there were 3 possible streets to take.

The gentlemen sniffed it out and lead the way. For the next couple of hours I followed behind, not losing sight of their red backpacks.. just in case.

At a certain point, they stopped off and I carried on. There are plenty of mile markers, shells and yellow arrows for the most part. . .until you are just 15km away from kilometer 0, that is. Incredible but the mile markers disappear and signage is noticeably less.

I had walked for 5 days and on day 6, I had the most trouble with losing my way. It's true. I could possibly get lost trying to get out of a paper bag. That tells you about the first 5 days and the heavy use and much appreciated! yellow arrows indicating the direction. I didn't get lost.

The last 15 kms I asked if I was going the right to at least 5 people and 4 of them were locals. I guess that is an average of every 3 miles. After having climbed up a hill, there was a cyclist behind me walking his bike up. I waited for him to ask which way to go. Then, I flagged down a car to ask the same question. School kids were playing soccer on a basketball court and they heard my same pregunta. Basically, there was no way I was going to go any extra kilometers out of my way. I wanted to stay on the right Way:-)

Hit the highWAY??

carol — Tue, 16 Jun 2009 05:40:00 GMT

Some parts of the Way are alongside concrete highways. There is a strange feeling. You can walk for hours in a fairy tale like forest - huge trees that form a canopy over the dirt path, wild flowers with bright colors, birds chirping and little creeks with crystal clear water. It is such a quiet tranquil setting that it doesn't seem real.. Then, boom, it is real because the path comes onto the highway with cars zipping by so fast it makes your head spin.

I have come to learn that there are various paths on this Camino Frances. The woodsy fairy tale one and the modern concrete one. At various points you can opt for one or the other. Other times, there is just one option.

As I passed another walker this morning, we exchanged a few pleasantries. Hours later, I arrived on an unavoidable concrete part of the Way and decided to stop for an OJ. The woman I had spoken to and passed was sitting at an outdoor table at the cafe. Wait! How'd that happen? Was I so lost in my thoughts that I never saw her walk by me? That's when I found out there was a fast track to Santiago.

I, however, will forego the Speedy Gonzalez route and take the long way. I'll be on the lookout for Hansel and Gretel... BTW, were those kids Spanish??

Light the WAY

carol — Tue, 16 Jun 2009 05:31:00 GMT

5:55am and I am sitting in my hotel room waiting for dawn to break. It is still too dark out to go walking. My goal is to get to Santiago in time for the noon day mass. Just to be sure, I decided last night to give myself 6 hours. It's the last 20km which I should do in 4.5 or 5 hours. But now I am thinking even if I leave at 6:30am, there is still plenty of time. That is if there is enough light in a half hour's time.

Last night after dinner, I went out to snap a few pics. There wasn't anything in particular. In fact, it was the highway but I wanted to get a photo of the daylight. At 9:30pm, there was still so much daylight. It was about 10:30ish when a bit more of darkness set in. I have noticed this the past nights and each time I am surprised by it. Yes, I am in Northern Spain, but Spain isn't that far north . . .

I am getting antsy. I can't watch any more BBC. Fortunately, I hear people in the hallway and that is a good sign. Others have the same idea of getting on the Way early this morning.

So, I will head out. Other pilgrims won't light the way...but I hope they lead it.

Gallery: Random Way

carol — Tue, 16 Jun 2009 00:33:00 GMT

Gallery: Arzua-Rua

carol — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 23:08:00 GMT

HeadWAY

carol — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 22:36:00 GMT

Today's walk was easy—very few hills! Or maybe there weren't so few and I am just getting a little better at getting up them. I think I am making some headway. At least, I don't agonize as much when I am at the foot of a hill. Plus, today was perfect walking weather. The temperature must have been in the 60s. I walked about 20km from Arzua to Rua. This morning I wasn't obsessing about my camera (like yesterday) but about my bowels.

I wanted to get on the Way by 7:00am. So, I set my alarm for 6:15. Instead, nature called at 5ish. With uncomfortable stomach pain, I jolted out of bed and into the bathroom. I cursed the tortilla with queso I had the night before. Feeling better (or so I thought), I went to the cafe on the ground floor of the hotel to have some tea and bread. I had to use the bathroom there too. Hmm, what to do? Do I start walking and then risk being in the middle of nowhere if nature calls a third time? Do I wait it out?

I took a swig of Pepto (man, am I glad I packed that!) and hit the pavement. I arrived at this evening's hotel at around noon and had forgotten all about this morning's episode...until I saw the menu in the hotel restaurant-- tortilla con queso.

In any case, this was my penultimate day of walking and I am just 20kms from Santiago de Compostela. Headway has for sure been made.

"One" WAY

carol — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 21:53:00 GMT

A month or so before leaving, I was a little apprehensive about walking the Way alone. Once I got all of those “what if” questions out of my mind, I was fine with my decision. Now, that I am here, I see there would be no other way for me but to go it alone.

You can go your own pace, stop when you want, continue on when you want, basically do exactly what you want and when with no pressure to accommodate another's pace.

Someone I met who is walking the entire 750km echoed my thoughts. She had started off in France with a friend and within their second day, they parted amicably. They decided each had her own agenda.

You see it when you chat with others on the Way. You start to slow down or the other stops to take a picture, or in my case, when there is an incline—each goes at their own pace and drops off maybe saying goodbye or see you later but with no pressure to keep the same gait.

I like my own company enough that I could walk for hours without talking to anyone. There are, however, lots of people around. So, if you feel like chit-chatting, there are many opportunities. You just have to hold back a while and sooner or later, another pilgrim will come along...but then who knows if that person wants to talk!:-)

My WAY

carol — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 04:56:00 GMT

Frank said (or should I say, sang) it first, I did it my way. And that is how the Camino/St James Way is done—your way, my way, his way, her way. There is no right way. After four days, I am no expert on the way to do the Way. Talking, observing and listening I have come to understand that any way you do it, it's fine. It's your Way and it is a completely individual choice.

I am doing what is referred to as “Camino Light”. I am carrying a day pack and I started in Sarria. My backpack is light. I carry just the daily essentials--water, rain gear, camera, cash etc. Every day, I have my suitcase sent ahead to my next destination. Another thing is the starting point. In order to get the final Compostela, it is necessary for walkers to get stamps along the last 100km. Sarria is 115km from Santiago. Hence, a typical starting point for the “lightweights”

The reasons for doing the Way are as varied as the starting points, number of kilometers per day, number of kilograms carried on one's back and number of stops. Individual decisions are the order of the Way.

No matter which way you do it, all along the Way, you hear two frequent words. Cyclists, walkers and lightweights too wish each other a ”Buen Camino.”

Gallery: Melide - Arzua

carol — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 00:31:00 GMT

Gallery: Eixere-Melide

carol — Sun, 14 Jun 2009 17:04:00 GMT