Whispers of a Lost Mine
INDIA | Monday, 21 April 2014 | Views [242] | Scholarship Entry
In Sideshar village, a village near Rakha copper minefield in eastern India’s Jharkhand state, a yellow sun has risen, tearing, melting the sheet of fog spread over the village and the mines. It’s the morning of 14th January and in Jharkhand, the Santhals – a tribal community - is celebrating ‘Tusu’ -their harvest festival.
During the festival, in each Santhal house, a small temple-like structure called 'Tusu' is made with bamboo, decorated with flowers and worshiped. The Santhals believe that Tusu is a goddess who came to visit her parents on the occasion of the harvest festival and will return to her husband’s home at the end of it.
Though most of Jharkhand is under-developed, Sideshar has wide roads, electricity and regular supply of drinking water. ”It happened only because of Rakha,” says Prakash, a villager, referring to the copper mine that functioned for several decades, but closed down in 2001, after it was waterlogged. Prakash, like every other male member of this village, worked in the mine once. “Everyone had an income, everyone was counted, because there was Rakha,” he adds.
As we talk, I hear sound of drums and run at the door to see two boys of about 12, singing 'Tusu' songs:
The bus is coming, the taxi’s coming. Mom, please help me get ready, they are coming to take me.
I smile: thanks to Rakha and all the money it brought here, ‘Tusu’ now travels by 'bus' and 'taxi’, instead of waking!
Post lunch, I join the entire village, on the banks of river Suvarnarekha. I watch groups of villagers going down with a ‘Tusu’ structure. As they stand on knee deep water, the groups suddenly start a verbal fight:
“Our Tusu is great”
“No, ours is greater”
“Your Tusu is no good”
“Huh! your Tusu ran away with the mine contractor!”
Yes, even duels here are not complete without the copper mine!
On one side of the river, I see men selling copper hair clips, copper rings and even copper bangles. Then I see the sun rushing into the river - fast and furious, a ball of copper.
On the way back, villagers stop in the middle of a field and dance. They sing about blooming flowers, birds and the simple joys in the day of the copper mine.
I can’t remember if someone pulled me in or if I joined on my own. But now I’m among them, singing their song, matching their steps and sharing the richness of their heart, their joy and their festive mood.
Overhead, a moon is rising. Is the moon wearing a copper glow, or am I dreaming?
Tags: 2014 Travel Writing Scholarship - Euro Roadtrip
