Journeys

Corn Island

blue — Sat, 27 Sep 2008 04:00:00 GMT

I took a small plane from Managua to Big Corn. That was definitely a new experience! It wasn't bad actually...of course...I took to sedatives before we left the ground...

Big Corn is great. The weather report has been saying rain...but none the past 5 days...except a down pour overnight. I have met several really nice people. The longer I stay the more familiar they are with me. It is nice to be somewhere long enough to be aware of at least one layer beneathe the visible town I am in, and as well...there is a satisfaction of taxis slowing down, honking and calling out a greeting to me...either the driver or passengers... Of course I make many stupid mistakes due to my lack of understanding of a new culture. I think I have made a plan with someone...and they do not show up. Someone thinks they made a plan with me...and I don't realize it...and I am a no show. Given that I am in a foreign culture and these things keep occuring...I am very aware that it is me that isn't understanding something...so I apologize and just keep going...

I have managed to keep bugs out of room...no small feat. I have also been sick with a virus going around Nicaragua...fever, stuffed up, some people have body aches etc. It isn't a big deal...just annoying...for whoever has it.

San Juan Del Sur

blue — Sat, 20 Sep 2008 11:47:00 GMT

This is a nice town...very gringrofied... but I am glad for a hammock...and a guy to drink with. Tomorrow we go to a beach...its supposed to be nice...to drink some more...why not...I am on vacation! I finally have a computer with proper keys...that you can see or shift...so now I am able to go back and edit...I hope no one has read the mess I was able to turn out before now!

Isla Omtempe

blue — Fri, 19 Sep 2008 11:39:00 GMT

Yes it is beautiful. Picturesque...photographic...fantasy like. Unfortunately I stayed in a beautiful, beautiful hotel...with very unwelcoming people. It was really a drag...and they had people right where they wanted them...in their pockets. I won't say more. I ran in a cab to the ferry..not looking back...it was leaving as I pulled up. The driver tossed me my bag...yippee for light packs! and I ran and jumped off the dock onto the ramp going up...climbed over the cars...and climbed up the ladder to the top deck...much to the admiration of those on board. Not a bad...if not funny way to end a bad couple of days!

Children

blue — Mon, 15 Sep 2008 08:48:00 GMT

Honduras...my sponsored children...Guatemala...poor Mayan children...Nicaragua...street children. I think the latter is the most painful kind to see...children who have been abandoned...making their way by begging...forming their own groups of children families. Some are just 1 year old. I think in all my travels this is the most disturbing. I don´t see how a country can allow this to happen. I also don´t see how a poor country can make it different.

Granada

blue — Sun, 14 Sep 2008 12:41:00 GMT

So here I am in Nicaragua. Everyone is so nice here...I woke up early as I heard a band. I realized that it was the weekend of Independence day in Central America. I dressed quickly...and showered...oops...I still need to buy toothpaste...of course that would involve actual money. Card in the pocket...camera in the bag...and out the door. My card worked...I am rich! Then I was shooting the parade in the central square like mad. People actually tried to get out of my way as I shot! On their special day! I definitely like Nicaragua so far. I had a lovely breakfast and went to an internet cafe. Everything was perfect. I got back to the dorm to pay and met a couple of people and we went to the supermarket to buy some things to make for dinner. Together we made pasta and salad. It was great...though it is hard to cook with 2 pots, and one cutting board and one knife with about 15 people trying to cook too! Tomorrow is the big day. I will photograph some and I think take a trip around a bunch of tiny islands.

San Pedro Sula

blue — Sat, 13 Sep 2008 12:26:00 GMT

A boat ride to Puerto Barrios, a mini bus to the border, a first class bus to SPS. Here I am again. No smiles...no love. Why are people here so grim! I can´t be imagining it twice! I checked into a different hotel, but it wasn't much better than the first. Then...my bank card wouldn't work. I didn't use it last time I was in Honduras. Apparently Mastercard is the unloved child in Honduras...wonderful that I brought 2. I imagined with my savings and loans card to get some money out. I was so nervous about being in the dark soon at an ATM...that I did the math wrong and didn't get enough local currency out...but didn't realize it until the following morning. After paying my hotel, dinner, and purchasing two bus tickets the next day...I had 5 dollars in local and 20 dollars in US. I needed to cross the border just so I could use my card. I woke and got to the bus station by 4.30 AM...but the Tica bus was full. I got on a Hedman Alas at 5.45 to Tegu. I arrived in Tegu at 10.30. I heard about a cushy bus that went all the way to Managua...so I taxied to that bus station. I got a ticket for 2PM. I waited a long time. I even walked to Burger king for breakfast...and the guy there was so nice! I was glad to have a nice person before I left Honduras for good. It was probably coincidence...my people experience there...besides the two families I was with earlier were so super sweet!

We traveled for some time on the King Quality airplane like bus...flight attendant included. We were served a sandwich and chips and juice...and that was it for...11 HOURS! I arrived in Managua at 1PM. I went in on a taxi with two guys to Granada to a hostel they had a reservation with as I had none...and hoped for a hammock for the night. At two PM I had a dorm bed...in Granada!

Rio Dulce and Livingston

blue — Fri, 12 Sep 2008 12:11:00 GMT

After a torturous 3.5 hours on a 1st class bus with no air con, not allowed to open windows, and cockroaches hitching a free ride...I got to Rio Dulce. Windy roads and the heat left me a little dizzy. A throng of boatsmen attacked and I was really frustrated with persistence. I broke away and headed towards my best guess directionally of the docks...and a guy on a bicycle followed me...talking about boat times etc. I told him ...not so politely that I needed a restaurant. Finally I arrived. Just ten minutes in the heat made me droopy. I sat down and hunted for an advil...a migraine was coming on. The bicycle guy was back. I expressed that I was a little sick and he ordered me a glass of water. When it arrived...it was not accompanied by a bottle. I crossed my fingers and took the pill. Soon after I felt better...probably food and a cold drink helped. I bought a ticket and got on the boat. The ride was really beautiful..about 2 hours. Once in Livingston, the captain started leading tourists to a hotel. I slipped away to find my own. It was called the pink house...Casa Rosada. It was paradise! Little cabins...and a garden and the water just beyond. The restaurant played soft beautiful music and I ate dinner...and breakfast gazing out at the mouth of the river that connects with the sea. The downtown area is lively at night and sweet. It is a very safe town. People were very friendly and kept saying they wanted tourists to speak well of the town. Of course I didn´t know at the time that pirates had attacked a small vessel out at sea...and the American man wouldn´t give up his stuff...and they stabbed him...and he died later. Such a shame...it had nothing to do with the people of Livingston...and the poor guy. It shouldn´t have happened, but also the book says many times...if you are held up...give up your stuff...your camera is not worth your life. And insure valuables if you must bring them. I am glad I did just that. Anyway...enough sad news...I loved Livingston. It is a rich combination of Indiginous people, Garifunas, Ladinos, and even people with Indian ancestory. It is lively and warm...rather hot...boiling hot. Apparently those hurricanes are sucking the cooler rain out of the rainy season!

Flores

blue — Tue, 9 Sep 2008 12:45:00 GMT

Ok...6 hours later I arrived in Flores...not the worse for wear. We stopped for a cafeteria lunch...just like in Thailand! We also watched Kung Fu Panda and Star Wars Clones...in Spanish. Once here I hit a wall of heat. From one extreme to another! Just walking down the street is a task. All the shops close at around noon and reopen around four. I have a huge dorm room to myself. Never was a cold shower such heaven! I woke up this morning at 2.30 AM to get the 3.15 bus to Tikal for a sunrise tour. It was hard at first. For 20 minutes we went at a quick pace to get to Temple 4 and climb it to watch the sun rise. It was beautiful! Then I photographed monkeys everywhere! Then I managed to slip and fall part way down a differenty temple. Luckily I came through unscathed...but a few people watching were pretty scared for me...and I was definitely shaky afterwords! Jeeze! I passed on climbing any more after that...I have climbed plenty of piles of rocks in the past few years! Then I waited 3 or 4 hours for a bus back. It was so hot today I really felt irritable by the time I got back to Flores (oh yeah...and a flat tire along the way!)...but nothing a piña colada couldn't fix! Tomorrow I go to Rio Dulce and catch a boat to Livingston....and chill on a beach in a hut in this Caribbean outpost for a few days!

Jaibilito

blue — Wed, 3 Sep 2008 08:27:00 GMT

I went on the boat to a small inlet where there is a hotel carved into the mountain. I was able to stay in a small stone cabin with amazing views of the lake and the mountains and volcanoes beyond. There was a family style dinner...and I was able to have vegetarian. Then 10 of us got into the hot tub also on the cliffs. In the darkness we watched mother nature put on a fantastic lightning show in the distance. Each time there was a bolt or sheet of lightening the volcanoes were illuminated. Fantastic! And yes...a touch expensive...but so worth it!

Panajachel

blue — Tue, 2 Sep 2008 05:16:00 GMT

I took a chicken bus to Pana. It was a lovely 3 hour ride. I arrived at 10 and found a lovely place across town near the beach and in the corn field. I have my first single. I decided it was time to take a break from the hostel scene...though it is a great way to meet people. I have a sweet small room (I can stretch out my arms and touch the door from my bed). I have a small window with a beautiful view of the volcano. One flight up there is a patio with a gorgeous view of the huge beautiful lake and the volcano behind it. Fog settles around it kind of like Denali...but clears up enough to see the top from time to time (unlike Denali). It is pretty here...but street vendors will not leave me alone. One little boy...turning on sad eyes and a sad voice would not leave me as I was have breakfast! So frustrating! But imagine sitting and eating a lovely meal of fried plantains, eggs, toast, potatoes, coffee in front of a lake! So nice! Then the cafe next door started playing Bob Marley. One more day of heaven or not? For point of reference: room: 10 dollars. And hey...there is a TV. When it rains...I will have lots of Spanish soaps. Until the electricity goes...as it always does! Then...ipod and a nap!

Antigua

blue — Mon, 1 Sep 2008 04:59:00 GMT

Antigua is a beautiful city...though a bit of a harrowing drive in a minibus. When we got to the Guatemalan border a French couple forgot their passports?! We waited at the border for them to be driven back to Copan. Luckily it is only 30 minutes away...and our speedy driver covered that hour and 10 minutes...in 30 minutes. that must have been due punishment for that mistake! We managed...even with that mix up to arrive in Antigua half an hour early. Apparently the driver was making the sign of the crucifix... and asking when to pass on curvy roads...past the 4 or five cars we would overtake. We were the fastest car in the mountains. My travel mate who sat next to him was partially amused...partially ready to pee his pants!

In Antigua we stayed the first night in a party hostel. It was really hopping...with drinks, music, drunk people etc. I finally fell asleep on my top bunk. opposite to me on the top bunk was one of my travel mates who reported the next morning, over a large free breakfast that the couple beneath him who stumbled in with much spirit at 2 AM, had a very passionate night below him. Bunk beds really aren´t a good choice for that. He was shaking up there for hours!

We changed hostels and had much peace. It was much nicer. I took beautiful photos. Mountains surround Antigua and a gorgeous volcano is front and center. I sat in a cafe for some time drawing a church...and got laundry done! Hurray! The town is very pretty, works like a comfortable grid...and I feel myself settling in...but tomorrow I leave for Panajachel. Lord it is hard to pronounce all these Guatemalan cities ahead of me!

Pura Vida!

Copan

blue — Sat, 30 Aug 2008 05:34:00 GMT

Here I am in Copan. It is very, very beautiful. It is a cobblestoned town with lovely cafes. There is more english which can be relieving for me...of course that is my own fault...hardly Honduras'! It just feels so much better...cleaner, safer. My hostel is lovely...Only 5$ (the less desirable one in SPS was 11)By happenstance I was assigned the bed called "rabbit 18" which is the name of a Copan Mayan King. Unfortunately he was a bit aggressive...and was beheaded during his reign...oh well...

Last night I spotted a very frightened rat in our room. My dorm mate jumped up on the bed when I mentioned it. Then there was a domino effect of screams and jumping. I borrowed a flashlight so I could encourage him out the door. Once in the hall...a whole scurry of people and the rat and screams and broom sticks...goodness! Eventually he was out the gate.

I woke up early this morning and took many photos of the city and the surrounding mountains bathed in fog and early morning light. Then, I saw the ruins. They weren't very big, but they are known for their detail in the carving of the stone. I focused on the details in my photos...but was lurred away by parrots! I love my telephoto lens!

When I returned to my hostel...the woman spoke rapidly at me in Spanish. I picked out a few words...water, tomorrow...or 6 days...mountains. Suddenly I realized there was no water to be had. Darn. I knew I should have showered before I left! I then realized that she was saying there was no water in the whole city...and that it might be back tomorrow...or in 6 days! The Mayan Gods have spoke...I have been flirting with Guatemala since I arrived in Copan. There is a bus that leaves for Antigua tomorrow. My name is on the ticket! Surely there is water there!

Honduras has been great. My visit with the girls...monumental experience...but Guatemala awaits. Farewell Honduras.

4 days in Honduras

blue — Fri, 29 Aug 2008 05:24:00 GMT

Honduras has been an interesting place. San Pedro Sula...fairly forgetable. I thought I would never be the traveler who takes taxis and nice buses...and walks out of my hostel with not a thing on m...but my gut told me to do all of the above...and I trust my gut. Usually I find Lonely Planet biased unfairly against commerce cities and ignore it's descriptions of them...but it was spot on this time.

I visited my sponsored children. It was truly amazing. That was why I cam to Honduras...and for that reason alone...it has been a wonderful, wonderful time so far. I will keep the details private from the world wide web, but can talk to people in person when I get home. Both families did receive permission to break from work to visit me...not easy to obtain, as I understand (no "sick days" to be had), and one mother woke up at 3AM to make me tomales sp?)...which was so good...all that time and effort for me?...but very, very generous!

Next...bus to Copan.

Limbo

blue — Sun, 24 Aug 2008 15:33:00 GMT

I long time journey has come to the end. I have said all my good byes, and until next times, and good lucks. There have been an entire summer of goodbyes. I have tied every bow, wrapped up every loose end. There is not one thing left undone. And here I am. Who are we when we leave our titles, our positions, our identifications? Who am I now.? When someone asks what I do...what do I say? I am leaving for another adventure tomorrow...but this trip to Central America will likely not be the true journey this time around. I am going on a more interior journey. As a budhist I know in my head that we are not the trappings of our titles, our jobs, our positions, even our created selves or our thoughts. But in my heart I have embraced all of these things...with a passion. Now, I need to peel off those layers and come back to a core...under which there is a nothingness...or so I am told by masters. That seemed so much easier at 20 when I was dedicatedly studying Buddhism. What do I do now at 40? Is the world still huge, unexplored and ripe for the taking? Or has experience made the world smaller, a little tarnished...a little worse for the wear? I am ready to find out. And with lack for a better way to explore my own interior, I set sail (or wings) tomorrow for Honduras and Nicaragua.