One-way Ticket

Living in Nepal, I’ve been able to experience various surreal events but none such as drumming in the rain. This ethereal moment occurred one rainy afternoon during the monsoon season when I was in Pokhara with some colleagues for an education fair. After a day of talking to students and handing out leaflets in an torturous heat, we agreed that it was about time for us to take a a short break and as such, we opted to visit the World Peace Pagoda: a Buddhist pagoda, built by Nipponzan Fujii that overlooks Lake Fewa.
Driving up the hill to the bottom of the pagoda was an event in itself, the sharp and dangerous curves of the road offset by the murky beauty of dew covered hills and shockingly green vegetation that contrasted the dull grey clouds hanging in the valley. Arriving at our destination (in one piece, no less) we started to get out the car and, with perfect comedic timing, the rain came pouring down. After a brief discussion, we decided just to continue with our plan of visiting the pagoda and so, we started to trudge up the hill, rivulets of water streaming past our feet. The walk up, even in the rain, was a beauty that reminded you of why you came to Nepal. Stunning vistas made up of jagged mountains mingling with vibrant greenery was our backdrop as we marched towards the pagoda, passing various small eateries selling milk tea along the way.
It was about the time we passed the final cafe en route when I first heard it. Nothing more than a faint echo that I wasn’t sure I even heard. As we moved closer, it became more prominent, the distant and haunting sound of a drum being struck again and again. Boom. Boom. Boom boom boom. The sound eased through the low-hanging clouds and drizzling rain. Boom. Boom. Boom boom boom. Wandering along the flooded path, we got closer and the drumming echoed around us. Boom. Boom. Boom boom boom. Finally, we reached the source of the drumming: a simple, white building atop of the hill and inside of it? A group of Buddhist monks chanting and praying to the drumbeat.
Set to this otherworldly soundtrack, we walked the final few metres to the World Peace Pagoda’s stone steps. Taking off our sodden shoes and socks, we ascended the final steps to this religious beacon barefoot, the white exterior glowing in the grey sky as we circled it. With the rain pouring down on us and the drum beating in our heads, I suddenly knew why people came to Nepal.