Rapscallion

last day in India

blomies — Wed, 26 Feb 2014 18:56:00 GMT

Namaste, here's a traveller's tale from 27 February 2014:

Rishikesh is built along the banks of the Ganges. Early morning yoga had readied me for a long, brisk walk in the drizzle. We had chanted:

Om Saha navavatu, Saha nau bhunaktu, Saha veeryah Karavaahai
Tejesvi navadhitamastu, Maa vidvishavahai, Om shanti shanti shanti

Stone and concrete steps led to the river's edge where a few from Hindustan continued to bathe in the azure/pastel green waters. Sellers (young and old) offered a small bouquet of flowers to float on the holy waters. Rituals and rites passed by every day. Like elsewhere in India there was constant movement.

Visiting many forts and palaces, time did seem to stand still. Certainly the Mughal Emperors knew how to live it up. Today one-fifth of humanity lives and works in this emerging nation where they are rapidly adapting to the 21st century. India bristles with an eclectic mélange of ethnic groups; an intoxicating cultural cocktail for the traveller.and generally Hindus, Moslems and Sikhs dwell in peace and harmony. With such astonishing diversity, I was taken on a journey that will linger in my mind for a long time.

Small shops lined busy walk ways crammed with locals going about their daily business and chores. At times on the roadside it was like a trail of refugees - people dressed in colourful rags, strange head gear and some carrying baggage on their heads: a constant babble of Hindi and shuffling of sandals, thongs and shoes. There was no footpath and pedestrians walked mainly in single file, occasionally double to pass or chat together. It had been raining off and on since early morning which explained the build-up of traffic since before dawn with a cacophony of noise which blights every city in the sub-continent.

Another meal was not something I relished. Rice porridge for brekkie has never been on my food wish list. And last night I'd seen two rats scurry by, one in the dining room and the other crawling by the sacks of food! My stomach had (bless Shiva and a local remedy) settled faster than the two previous bouts of 'Delhi belly'.

I arrived at Divine Resort just as the rain set in. Time for a cuppa (real cappuccino with apfel strudel and ice cream. A German guy seated opposite me ordered the same. An American guy was dressed like a golfer. As I spoke he said: "you're a Kiwi." He was from Maryland and had spent 3 years in NZ, "great golf courses ... met Michael Campbell on pro circuit before he won PGA ... shot a couple of 62s ... " he bragged on while another ex-pat gave physiotherapy to the German's wife. It was a hotel for wealthy westerners, wives or girlfriends would love it and it had a great view of the cataracts below. Returning to the narrow lanes I stopped to buy some souvenir presents.

I was wet, hungry and running late and I would not have made check out time at 12 noon, had Raju not offered me a lift on his 500cc motorcycle. The wind whisked my hair back as he throttled up the hill and leaned around corners on the windy road. He looked like a 1960s mod-rocker (Bollywood style) and wouldn't accept money: "give it to poor person who needs it," he suggested.

Lunch at Niketan Ashram was surprisingly good - vegetable biryana, chick pea and marsala sauce, yoghurt, two chapati, a banana and tin mug of purified water. I'd thought, like in Gulmarg, I might be able to drink from the tap. At Rishikesh the Ganges River was a clear pale blue-green colour and looked clean. However, it was navigable by power boat for another 120 kilometres upstream as far as a hydro dam passing many other villages and towns. In my delicate condition I drank only bottled or distilled water.

A slow drive mid-afternoon to Haridwar had wearied me. What to do when the train is due to depart in a couple of hours? It had stopped raining and the day had warmed. I was pleased to be travelling light - only a small backpack. Taking to the streets again I set out to explore the town. The route to the rail station was crowded with people and congested with traffic. Turning left I ambled along a narrow shopping lane and walked into a barber's, not for a haircut or shave (which I needed), but a relaxing and refreshing head and face massage. Twenty minutes or so later at a cost of R250 ($5) I was rejuvenated (much better than caffeine or gurana) and caught up with Maha Shivaratri, young guys danced, partied and paraded in the streets to celebrate consciousness. They chanted "Om Namah Shivaya" and Hindu temples were decorated with flowers and lit up at night.

For me India is a land where nothing is black and white. A land of lights and darks, from waist deep fresh powder snow to cool marble palaces, and warm golden sands. This country where thousands of years history is alongside the latest technology with castes, colours, contrasts and a myriad of sounds, sights and smells.

Photos: Adriatic Coast

blomies — Mon, 7 Nov 2011 18:48:00 GMT

on board MV 'Marco Polo'

Photos: My Photo scholarship 2011 entry

blomies — Sun, 6 Nov 2011 22:57:00 GMT

Our New Zealand holiday refreshed our spirits. Aotearoa is a place of wild landscapes and perfect rural scenes, from the city of Dunedin nestled in tree-clad hills by the sea, to cute hamlets, like Arrowtown, to snow capped alpine peaks and lonely long beaches where we only met wildlife. The South Island is a land where we really had a breath of fresh air. We cycled along the Otago Rail, tramped around Mt Aspiring through forested valleys and spectacular mountain scenery. From Queenstown we drove past Lake Hayes and Lake Wanaka before jet boating up the Waitoto River, visited the majestic glacier at Fox and heli-hiked up Franz Josef and roamed the rugged West Coast in the South Island, kayaked and walked the stunning coastline in Able Tasman, watched seals in Kaikoura, and saw the devastation of the earthquake in Christchurch. Our gourmet specialties included roast dinner at a mountain lodge, whitebait fritters in Port Jackson, venison at Haast, muscles in Westport, paua and crayfish at Kaikoura. We enjoyed the fine wines of Wairau Valley. Our time in the "Land Of The Long White Cloud" lingers on after our return home. I am an inveterate traveller and a naturally confident person who seeks out opportunities and enjoys challenges. I have an open mind to all ideas and suggestions. I have energy, enthusiasm and a good sense of humour. I have strong interpersonal skills and no difficulty communicating with most people from those doing menial work to trasdesmen, academics or business people.I am confident, yet flexible. I am house-trained, perhaps even, a sensitive new-age guy. I have four children who are now young adults making their own way in the world. My interests include sports, gardening, woodwork, reading books and magazines, listening to music, travel, languages; good food/wine/conversation.

Photos: la vida maravillosa

blomies — Sun, 6 Nov 2011 22:15:00 GMT

los trinitarios

Mt Aspiring National Park

blomies — Sun, 6 Nov 2011 21:56:00 GMT

Our New Zealand holiday refreshed our spirits. Aotearoa is a place of wild landscapes and perfect rural scenes, from the city of Dunedin nestled in tree-clad hills by the sea, to cute hamlets, like Arrowtown, to snow capped alpine peaks and lonely long beaches where we only met wildlife. The South Island is a land where we really had a breath of fresh air.

We cycled along the Otago Rail, tramped around Mt Aspiring through forested valleys and spectacular mountain scenery. From Queenstown we drove past Lake Hayes and Lake Wanaka before jet boating up the Waitoto River, visited the majestic glacier at Fox and heli-hiked up Franz Josef and roamed the rugged West Coast in the South Island, kayaked and walked the stunning coastline in Able Tasman, watched seals in Kaikoura, and saw the devastation of the earthquake in Christchurch.

Our gourmet specialties included roast dinner at a mountain lodge, whitebait fritters at in Port Jackson, venison at Haast, muscles in Westport, paua and crayfish at Kaikoura. We enjoyed the fine wines of Wairau Valley. Our time in the "Land Of The Long White Cloud" lingers on after our return home.

The bus picked us up early on Thursday 6 January 2011 on a cold Dunedin morning. Outside the rain fell intermittently. Before Wanaka the inclement weather worsened. We huddled al fresco at a restaurant before the final leg of our journey, an hour’s drive north of Wanaka. The Matukituki River had moved across its braided bed, trees were down from high winds and the river was too high to cross. Our group of 38 keen trampers had to walk over the West Matukituki footbridge and a few kilometres in driving rain. A helicopter brought in our food supplies.

Some clothing was slightly damp, but not our spirits. We settled into our bunk rooms and changed into warm dry clothes. Generally, it was blokes on the top bunk. I clambered up with my blue folded sheets to make the bed. Everyone else had brought a sleeping bag. I could not understand why the sheets would not fit the bed – they were so small. In fact, they were not sheets but 2 round table cloths! Forlorn and embarrassed, I enquired whether anyone had a spare sleeping bag. Our camp ‘Mum’, Jenny Scott led me to a broom cupboard where there were left over sleeping bags. I took two to snuggle up in the cool evenings.

On the first morning, Friday we set off just after 8 o’clock. It was cold and wet with a strong wind. We had not envisaged such foul conditions. Remarkably, within an hour the sun shone brightly and we peeled off the extra clothing. We followed our leader, Don Cameron a sprightly 81 year old whose ice axe combined as a walking stick, hoe and seat. We traversed the grassy flats and over a suspension bridge and through the beech forest on the East Matukituki Valley to Glacier Burn.

We wound along through dense, dark, old growth forests and dark woods. Then down into the riverbed again before climbing back into the primeaval beech forest. The gnarled trees with their twisted roots threatened to trip us every step. The female hikers with their poles had difficulty with the undulating terrain. At each rest stop we noticed the sandflies, They swarmed all over us and bit our exposed, unprotected skin. After lunch we continued our hike up the east branch to witness a magnificent ‘other worldliness’. Rainfall was plentiful and the beech forest came with a sound track of birdsong and waterfalls. We were in awe at the pristine scenic beauty of this wilderness area. Around us was a vast amphitheatre and above the soaring cliffs and evergreen forest snowy peaks dominated the skyline. What gave the place its particular enchantment were the waterfalls. Down the many cracks and fissures in the steep rocky slopes fell long, silver ribbons of water.

We returned to Tititea Lodge about 6.30pm where Jenny had organised a marvellous dinner. Russell Lambeth ensured the amenities were spot on and even provided suitable beverages. We all took turns to share the domestic chores eg; cooking, cleaning, washing and wiping dishes, etc. Our leaders told us that each day we had a choice of 3 different tramps. At dinner I presented the table cloths to the lodge and gave Don a white rock for being solid and reliable guide on the day’s tramp. The evening camaraderie was most enjoyable and we retired to our bunk beds before dark. Generally, it was blokes on the top bunk and ladies below. It was still light at 9.45pm!

On Saturday after a hearty breakfast of porridge and toast we hopped on the trailer and were taken across the river by the tractor. From there we were transported by van and 4 WD to Raspberry Flat car park. The tramp to Aspiring Hut is mainly over green tussock meadows with mountains all around. We had to negotiate a couple of small bluffs which provided great views up and down the valley. After passing the old Cascade Hut we had to walk over a boggy marsh. Until then my feet had remained dry. The dampness exacerbated blisters on both my heels and Marcus Klein and I had a pleasant rest in the warmth of the bay windows. We had a view of the mountain from the valley floor to the summit. It was dense forest on the lower slopes, rock in the middle and snow on top. Across the tussock flats of the meandering river was boxed in by the gorge-like walls of the west Matukituki River valley.

In the distance at the top of the valley was Mt Bevan and towering above all the mountains was the peak of Mt Aspiring. This was Kiwi magic, almost a mystical surreal scene. Most of our fellow trampers climbed steadily on a well graded track through mixed beech forest to the Cascade Saddle. Part of this track followed a steep snowgrass and tussock ridge, with a few rocky outcrops to negotiate. Ice ages and huge tectonic upheavals had created beauty with a hard edge. Meantime Simon, Helen and Katie continued on a bush track past Aspiring Hut to Pearl Flat a meadow covered in short tussock grass. It was magnificent setting on a picture perfect day. There wasn’t a cloud in the blue sky. The mountains and scenery were superb. Simon and I took a refreshing dip in the cool waters of the river.

Sunday was another superb bluebird day. Like other mornings we arose early before 6.30am so that we were ready to hike before 8 o’clock. Again the tractor towed the trailer with our group across the Matukituki River to be then transported to Raspberry Flat. It is a marvellous walking trail along the west Matukituki valley. We walked along grassy river flats of the glacier-gouged valley, which are hemmed by imposing mountains. And above the tree line, subalpine gardens of tussock, lichens and dainty flowering herbs seemed to survive against all odds. We crossed the swing bridge and the track climbed steeply through a small gorge up the Rob Roy stream into a beech forest and then into alpine vegetation at the head of the valley. We stopped for lunch overlooking a waterfall and above was the Rob Roy glacier. Cheeky keas scurried about looking for scraps of food. Two Swiss tourists were warned and with a quick flap of its wings one kea swooped and a plastic bag with a plum were taken into the bush.

Whilst the others returned Simon and I clambered on up a scree stream for 40 minutes. It was hot work. The temperature was about 32^oand the humidity a pleasant 29%. On our descent we gazed at the top of the waterfall to watch 2 blokes base jump from the top. Wow, that was breath taking! Further downhill our toes were squashed into the front of our footwear. The big toe on my left foot was purple. The water in the ravine was appealing but fast flowing. It was a sparkling clear aquamarine. The colour caused by minerals and crushed rocks which the river brings down from the melting snow off the glaciers. Again later that afternoon Simon and I couldn’t resist going for a bracing swim below rapids in the Matukituki River even though the water temperature was only about 7^o.

The Mount Aspiring National Park is a walker's paradise and gave us a wonderful mixture of remote wilderness, high mountains and beautiful river valleys.

la vida maravillosa

blomies — Sun, 6 Nov 2011 17:18:00 GMT

A descubrir un mundo más allá de su país y a conocer la gente nueva revivió los niveles de energía de Mark Blomkamp y envió sus espíritus subiendo.

Una isla en el Caribe me había fascinado desde hace tiempo. Cuando pensamos en Cuba, pensamos de cigarros, ron, salsa, azúcar, Fidel Castro y Che Guevara. Desde mediados de marzo de 2011 pasé casi cuatro semanas allí. Me quedé tres semanas en una casa particular (con cama, desayuno y cena) en Trinidad. Se ubica en el centro-sur de Cuba. La música proporcionó una banda sonora a mi viaje completo con músicos tocando en las calles, restaurantes y paladares. Muchas de estas bandas estaban jugando sólo para obtener propinas, pero merece la pena ayudarlos porque crearon tal una gran atmósfera.

De los cultivadores de tabaco y esclavos a los mafiosos y los revolucionarios, Cuba ha estado un experimento social para 500 años. Tenía curiosidad sobre esta nación insular. Hoy, el estado socialista del Hemisferio Occidental la más larga permanente,tiene un sistema universal de salud, educación gratuita y baja de la criminalidad. Sin embargo se ha sido el racionamiento, la censura y los controles del gobierno. Incluso hoy en día hay telecomunicaciones todavía limitada y era básicamente incomunicado durante poco más de un mes. No obstane, cada casa tiene un teléfono, la electricidad, un aseo ejecución de agua, un televisor de color y otros servicios. No poseen un carro, pero la mayoría tiene su propia bicicleta. Tampoco tienen un computador personal. Algunos tienen ahora un teléfono móvil. Y por lo general, son felices.

Llegué a Trinidad de Cuba después de un viaje de cinco horas de guagua (autobús) desde la Habana. Viazul ofrece autobuses confortables con aire acondicionado, deja a tiempo y los conductores manejaron con prudencia. Trinidad tiene una estación de ferrocarril y un aeropuerto pero actualmente este medio de transporte no funciona. De hecho, una gran parte de Cuba es, como sus edificios llena de recovecos, en mal estado. En Cuba se llama Trinidad la Ciudad Museo. Fue fundada en 1514 y sigue siendo una de las ciudades coloniales mejores conservadas en las Américas. Trinidad es un tesoro histórico y cultural y ha sido declarado por la UNESCO como Patrimonio de la Humanidad. Era como estar un viajero del tiempo. Me pareció que los relojes haberse detenido a mediados de la década de 1850. Fui despertado con gallos infundio y pezuñas de caballos junto las calles de los guijarros.

El casco histórico es fácil de explorar a pie y hay muy poco tráfico. De hecho, es más probable que se ve de bicicletas, caballos y carretas y burros que los vehículos. Paseando a lo largo de las calles estrechas de guijarros vi joyas arquitectónicas que data de tiempos coloniales. Hubolas casas pintadas en en tomos pastel, las ventanas de balustre, tejados rojos de mosaico, mansiones encantadoras adornadas con frescos italianos, muebles españoles y porcelanas de Wedgewood.

Todos los caminos conducen a la Plaza Mayor donde se ubica a un lado, la Catedral (la iglesia parroquial de la santísima Trinidad).Muy cerca se aprecia el Museo Romántico, antes Palacio del Conde Brunet. Allí tiene su sede una gigantesca colección de cristalería y cerámica fina.El Museo de Arquitectura se encuentra en una casa construida en 1738 (la antigua residencia de otro terrateniente rico, Iznaga), muestra el esplendor aristocrático de una época pasada. También se pueden encontrar el Museo de Arqueología. ElMuseo de la Lucha contra Bandidos, un antiguo convento que muestra la lucha contra los contrar-revolucionarios en la década de 1960. Una pieza es el fuselaje del avión de espionaje, U2 que fue derribado en 1962.

Se encuentran la música y el baileen todas partes en Cuba y para mí uno de lo más destacado de mi viaje. Yo había asistido a clases de salsa el año pasado por un mes o dos y esperaba practicar con una bailarina cubana. Antes de llegar a Trinidad de Cuba había organizado una clase, por lo que pude aprender algunos pasos básicos. Pues, cada segunda noche después de la cena veía una banda tocando en La Casa de la Música. Fue una oportunidad maravillosa para interactuar con los trinitarios y los turistas. Bebimos mojitos y de vez en cuando bailamos un poco.La sensualidad y el enternecedores el centro de la salsa y por lo general se baila junto con una pareja. A la Casa de la Músicalo mejor de los bailarines bailó en un grupo donde se intercambiaron amigos en una 'rueda' que mezclaba la interacción social y divertida en una coreografía lleno de energía.

A acoger calurosamente es una verdadera forma de la vida en Cuba y una de las muchas sorpresas en esta isla tropical segura y pacífica. Es una sociedad humanitaria. La gente no vacilará en compartir las cosas, ya sea un cafecito en sus hogares o en un aventón en su vehículo. Hablando un poco de español me ayudó, porque cuando una persona oye que se trata de hablar su idioma,por lo general habrá las sonrisas, el servicioamigable y los momentos de un viajememorable. En general las personas hablan entre sí, aunque sean extraños en una cola o un encuentro casual en la calle.

Los deportes desempeñan un papel importante en la vida cubana. Un espectáculo fascinante, especialmente el domingo por la mañana es la esquina caliente donde una docena de hombres adultos gritan en voz alta a los otros. A principio estaba un poco preocupado por estegrupo enfurecido y lo que estaban discutiendo sobrela pelota, los partidos del día anterior del béisbol, la forma de los jugadores y las estadísticas del partido. El fútbol, el baloncesto, el voleibol, el atletismo y el boxeo también son los deportes populares.

Por las noches, las calles estaban vivas – los niños practicabanla pelota (béisbol) con un desgastado pelota de tenis o incluso papel mâché; unos residentes se sentaron fuera en su sillón, unos hombresjugaron dominó con una tabla en la calle; los jubilados fumaron cigarros a la puerta; o los televisores emitieron a mucho volumen en la vecindad con una telenovela; o un comentario de un partido de pelota o las noticias (a las 8 pm). En los bares y los cafés los vecinos se reunieron para beber una cervezao un ron.

Hay muchos otros lugares de interés y actividades en o cerca de esta Ciudad Museo. Subió a la loma detrás del pueblo para obtener un gran vista desde la torre de transmisión de televisión. Las agencias de viajes [Cubatur, Havanatur, Infotur, o Paradiso] ofrecen recorridos turísticos. También se puede andar a caballo. Tuve suerte a ver una pelea de gallos. Aunque ilegal, muchos campesinos disfrutaron el espectáculo y apostaron en las peleas y también hubo dos mesas de ruleta.

Unos 8 km hacia al este es el histórico Valle de los Ingenios (.refinerías de azúcar). A principios del siglo 19 muchos colonos franceses llegaron y establecieron más que cincuenta ingeniosen el valle. También es otr0 Patrimonio de la Humanidad y contiene ruinas de antiguos ingenios azucareros, mansiones coloniales, cuartos de esclavos, almacenes y otras estructuras. Uno de los hitos es la Torre de Manacas-Iznagas que es el símbolo de la Trinidad.

Aeso de una media hora al norte es la Sierra del Escambray, una cadena montañosa donde los visitantes pueden ver una serie de manantiales y arroyos. Topes de Collantes es un centro turístico de la ecología con senderos a través de los bosques y abundante fauna y flora, cascadas y el ríoCaburní. Muy cerca se pueden visitar las cuevas y las plantaciones de café. Un gran sanatorio antiguo es ahora el Kurhotel, y también hay dos otros: el Hotel Los Helechos y la Villa Caburní.

Sólo 12 km al sur de Trinidad es una hermosa playa de arena blanca: Playa Ancóndonde se ubica tres hoteles: Hotel Club Amigo Ancón, Cosatsur, y Brisas Trinidad del Mar. Los hoteles pueden organizaruna lancha para pescar o bucear. Se puede alquilar bicicletas de Las Ruinas del Teatro Brunet en Trinidad.Es un paseo fácil y agradable (a eso de 40 minutos)a andar en bici a lo largo del terreno llano de marea a la playa. Otra playa agradable es La Boca, unos 8 km al oeste de Trinidad.

Una variedad de transporte de taxi también es disponible. Hay taxis estatales de aire acondicionado, carros americanos antiguos, coco taxis, taxis de bici, y un taxi a caballo y carretera. Las calles están limpias y no hay ningún graffiti. En lugar de anuncios se velas consignas socialistas que exhortaron a la población de la revolución, que incitaron al pueblo a no olvidar los principios del socialismo, o generalmente hubo las carteles que exhortaron a ser amable y considerado a las otras personas.

Por la noche, hay mucho entretenimiento para elegir: la Casa de la Música es cerca de la Iglesia Parroquial en la Plaza Mayor. No se paga unaentrada y la banda de salsa comienza a tocar a las 10 pm; luego hay un espectáculo de música afro-cubana. Cerca de allí, a Calle Echerri es La Palenque de los Congos Reales donde se puede escuchar lamúsicaafro-cubana con muchos tambores. También en la misma calle es la Casa de la Trova con la música cubana distintiva, y el bar La Canchánchara. ARTex Cara Fisher tiene menos turistas y está se ubica a la vuelta de la esquina del Hotel Iberostar. Estos lugares cobran una entrada de $1CUC y se pude bailar hasta medianoche. A continuación, para las nocturnas, se puede ir a la discoteca Ayala y bailar toda la noche en una atmósfera surrealista de una cueva. Este disco está cerca delMotelLas Cuevas.

Cómo se llegar a Cuba?

No hay vuelos directos desde Australia a Cuba. La mayoría de los vuelos pasan por los Estados Unidos y luego a Cancún. Tendrá que cambiar vuelos. Creo que una buena ruta aérea esa volar a México o Canadá. Luego se puede organizar un vuelo directo a la Habana. Viazul proporciona los servicios de autobús dos veces al día desde la Habana a Trinidad.

Dónde se queda en Trinidad?

Hay más que 600 casas particulares en Trinidad. Las familias son hospitalarias pero se tomaría tiempo a mirar a su alrededor para revisar la calidad de alojamiento Las casas pueden variar de una mansión grande a un pequeňo departamento. La mayoría tendrá un baño y un dormitorio con el aire acondicionado.

Actualmente hay sólo un hotel de lujo: Iberostar Grand (La Ronda está en reconstrucción; y otro gran hotel con la fachada de una antigua iglesia se está construyendo a la colina cerca de la ciudad). Motel Las Cuevas tiene los dormitoriosarriba de la colina que ofrece una vista panorámica.

Moneda

$1 CUC (convertibles pesos) = US$ 1

$24 CUB (moneda nacional) = $1 CUC

No llevar dólares. Los bancos y otros 'Cadencas' cobran hasta 20% de comisión para cambiar dolares norteamericanos (US$). Tampoco no tener dólares australianos. No pude encontrar un lugar para intercambiar mis billetes de $A. Recomendaría a tomar Euros. Sin embargo se puede obtener pesos convertibles con su tarjeta VISA o MasterCard. No podrá usar AMEX porqueel bloqueo (el embargo comercial estadounidense). Es aconsejable a cambiar algunos pesos convertibles (CUC) ala moneda nacional (CUB) y luego se puede comprarlos alimentos o regalos de los vendedores callejeros a un precio muy barato.

‘Para bien creer no hay cosa como ver’

Adraiatic coast

blomies — Thu, 23 Nov 2006 23:10:00 GMT

CROATIA

From the Grecian isles we spent one day at sea aboard the Marco Polo as the liner cruised north. The star attractions were the Adriatic islands and coast — which have the cleanest waters in the Mediterranean

Croatia probably has more miles of pristine seashore than anywhere else in the Mediterranean. Much of Croatia is a long narrow strip of coast, having emerged from the bust-up of old Yugoslavia with the lion’s share of the shore. There lies almost 1,000 miles of seaside, reaching all the way from the Slovenian border to the Montenegrin one. We strolled along the vertiginous walls of Dubrovnik and explored the Roman emperor Diocletian’s palace at Split – both Unesco- protected cities, founded by the Venetians in the Middle Ages to show off their maritime supremacy

DUBROVNIK

We arrived at the quayside in the old harbour taken ashore aboard one of the lifeboats. Dubrovnik is a fairytale city every bit as magical as Venice or Florence.

The old town looks like a giant castle, surrounded by ramparts 2km long and up to 25m high. There is no motorised transport beyond the main entrance, the Pile gate, just a warren of baroque churches and stone houses with honey-coloured roofs.

It was slightly jarring to read a map legend at one of the city gates: "City map of dangers caused by the aggression to Dubrovnik by the Yugoslav army, Serbs and Montenegrans, 1991-92", and to find shrapnel in the baroque facade of St Saviour's Church.

After being smacked by 2,000 shells in the Balkan war Dubrovnik is once again the loveliest medieval city under the sun. Unesco restoration has turned the white-walled, green-shuttered Old Town into a place with gorgeous courts and cloisters of baroque palaces. Big hoses swoosh down the streets every morning to keep it looking maximum shiny.

The overwhelming sight is the city walls. The 2km stroll can be vertiginous, but it's wonderfully picturesque. As the sea walls give out to the glittering Adriatic on one side and Dubrovnik's backgardens on the other, your hand reaches automatically for your camera.

Cars are banned inside the city walls, and just as well: It’s essentially an outdoor place where we frittered away the day sliding from cobble stoned cafe to a bar, patrolling the ramparts to check for glorious rooftop views

The way we got your bearings is to amble along a circuit of the stupendous city battlements: We enjoyed scrambling around the Escher-like collection of helter-skelter stairways and crumbling catwalks, all poised on high cliffs against the very bluest bit of the Adriatic.

After the walk we did some shady shopping in the thin alleyways off Stradun, Dubrovnik’s marble-lined main drag. The Placa, the broad main boulevard leading to the square and the famous Onofrio fountain, is criss-crossed by thin alleyways. There are no hotels in the old town, but plenty of al-fresco cafés where you can sit and watch the locals and tourists down the one street that acts as the entrance and exit to the citadel. The best view of the lot is from the top of the walls.

I went for a quick swim at the town beach, Banje, very refreshing in the cool waters in the Spring sunshine - just five minutes’ walk east of Ploce Gate, with a decent beach bar. Sand fights a losing battle with stones, but that’s true everywhere along the Dalmatian coast — it’s what makes the sea so famously limpid there.

Meanwhile the boat remained at anchor. Passengers continued to be ferried to and from the vessel.