embracing entropy

Why? Part II

arfox — Sat, 18 Nov 2006 15:04:00 GMT

umbrellas used as protection from sunlight
squat toilets
rice and noodles
roti canai
boiled drinking water
strangeness everywhere
strong curry
familiarity in foreign eyes
tv with no english channels
lady boys
orangutans in the wild
monorail
garbage, garbage and more garbage
land and people being squished
modernity
baby sea turtles
more garbage
men, embracing in the street
men, holding hands, more appropriate than women and men holding hands
geckos
australians and their tales of poison
vastness
observations of the obviously different and bizzarely similiar
sustainable eco-tourism
people - in their own realities
milo
frustration
hassle
taxi cab touts
appreciation of what's comfortable
growth and change
time to read
feeling at home in a place far from home
realizing you know where you are
a captive audience
realizing you know where you're going
having no idea where you are or where you're going
foreign news
internet addiction
bucket showers
mountains
kindness
loneliness
perspective

Instructions for Eating, Sleeping And Pooping

arfox — Fri, 17 Nov 2006 11:56:00 GMT

(in a Malay Muslim Homestay)

Bathinggather clean clothes in a dry bag
bring soap and toiletries in separate dry bag
enter bathing area fully clothed
disrobe
fill plastic wash basin 3/4 full with water (cold)
apply small amount of soap to skin
rub
working from the top downards, liberally drench body with water from basin for rinse
take care not to place soap or dirtied water in the wash basin
pour remaining water into floor drain
dry
replace clothing (women - take care to cover shoulders and knees)
using broom, clean area of excess water

Pooping
gather toilet paper for personal use in small dark coloured plastic bag
remove shoes
enter toilet area
remove trousers and squat squarely over toilet drain (women facing forward, men facing backward)
carefully control the stream
clean oneself using toilet paper and deposit in the bag your brought (to take with you for later disposal)
replace trousers
fill plastic wash basin 1/4 full
using plastic ladle pour enough fresh water down toilet drain to adequately remove all waste
replace trousers and shoes

EatingSit "Indian style" around the eating area, taking care not to place feet near any food
accept the "tea pot" and bowl as it comes around the eating area, and generously pour water over your right hand into the bowl for cleaning
accept dishes of food from the person to your right or left, taking only as much from each dish as you are capable of eating
never pass a dish over the food area - only around
eat food only with the right hand, scooping rice together with liquid food and clump into small balls
use thumb of right hand to push rice into your mouth
if right hand is dirtied with food, only then can you pass dishes or refresh your drink with the left hand

General Notes
Most Malay people practice a flexible form of Islam, and you are unlikely to offend your homestay family if you make an effort to join in their custom
It is innapropriate to discuss politics or personal religious beliefs, although you can ask questions about religious festivals
Beware kittens - they probably have fleas
The mosquito net is there for a reason

Paradise... found?

arfox — Wed, 15 Nov 2006 14:49:00 GMT

I'm not a beach bum - nor could I ever be, but there is something spectacular about the sound of waves lapping at a sandy beach.

I imagine this is how some people imagine paradise. A clear sky. Full moon. Calm water. Sandy beach. Coconut trees rusting in a warm breeze.

I find my own search for paradise quite amusing. With seven unplanned days at the end of my long journey, I anticipated spontaneous (the irony is not lost on me) adventure. My altitude sickness having taken alot out of me - I instead resigned myself to spending the remaining time 'relaxing' (as one should - on a holiday). But where?

Its not enough for a location to be beautiful, I discovered. But to be a true paradise, it must be cheap (or at least of good value for one's cash), unspoiled, and (most importantly) have readily available internet access.

I've been incrediby lucky to find the location I have, and when I say "find" I really mean "accept", as I believe I have transformed this simple but clean accomodation into what it needed to be to facilitate my current needs.

And a sandy beach ain't bad - right?

I understand the context of paradise as a reflection of the inner state. Milton clearly thought so, and in this a sandy beach is not quite enough.

I've not found the peace or total relaxation I sought (or found last year in Thailand) although I don't blame Malaysia. There are any number of reasons why this year is different (not the least of which being - this is THIS year and not LAST duh!)

All is not lost however. I no longer seek perfection in this. I've never been much of a beach person. Perhaps I'll find what I'm looking for tomorrow.

The Descent

arfox — Thu, 9 Nov 2006 19:09:00 GMT

Altitude

All there is
is
dizzying
nauseating need
for it to all be over

no thought
no word
no dream
brings peace
but empty
and over

still and
still
and still
need heaves
and heaves
and heaves

and knowing
there is
an end
brings no
end

ALWAYS respect the mountain. Always. No matter how small, or low, or delicate. Mountains present a plethora of opportunities to kick your ass.

I don't know what I suffered from on Kinabalu. The mountain guides think it may have been a stomach bug, coupled with exhaustion and a touch of altitude. But that kicked my ass. After eight hours of climbing, an exhausting night at altitude and six hours of throwing up every 15 minutes, my trip leader decided it was time to walk me down. I made it the first 2km under my own power (and oh! the willpower it took!) but eventually I collapsed and passed out with 4km and 2000m to go.

I have faint and blurry memories of frenzied activity, of my Intrepid group dressing me up like a rag tag doll with warm clothing - someone rubbing my hands - Paul rubbing my back - Dee stuffing power bar bits down my throat *shudder* and isotonic drink. I remember Soppinngi worried when I decided to bed down on a pile of abandoned water pipes, and the smell of black jelly beans (uh - on the way back up)

I remember Japanese tourists (curse you Japanese tourists!) posing for photos as the Malay kids put me in the stretcher, and KIDS, teenage boys! carrying me the 4km down the mountain.

While I wouldn't say it should be your first choice for a way down Kinabalu - if you have no choice, a stretcher is a damn fine way to travel. Its comfy, and aside from the odd vertical descent and far too often yells of "OOP!" from the rescuers - its a fantastical way to view the jungle canopy. About an hour into the rollercoaster ride, the mist descended on the forest - and what was a brilliant green and red and blue jungle turned to black and white. I felt like I had fallen down (or up!) a very special rabbit hole. For any Terry Brooks fans out there - I was in the fairy mists.

Enough said. Down safe. Much indebted to the local Malay men (particularily those of the Kiau village - THANK YOU Soppinngi and Binkar)

If you decide to climb Kinabalu folks - respect it. And brink black jelly beans (just incase).

How Death Cab For Cutie Saved My Life

arfox — Mon, 6 Nov 2006 02:24:00 GMT

I'm generally not a fan of extremely strenuous physical activity - especially activity requiring endurance. I prefer my exercise in short fits and bursts - like dancing, or jogging around my apartment during commercial breaks on Desperate Housewives. So when my Intrepid tour group decided to take the longer, higher, hillier and more trecherous Mesilau route up Mount Kinabalu (4101m) I was less than thrilled.

The 8km trek up 3350m to mountainside accomodation was filled with spectacular views. First of dense jungle canopy, then of tree line and clouds and finally sunset over the South China Sea.

I could care less about any of this of course, as I lay flat on my back gasping for breath and praying for death at 7km.

After seven hours of climbing my body had reached a point of utter exhaustion. My limbs complained and my head swam and every single cell voted. The results came in a resounding "HELL NO" (with no need for a re-count) The sun began to set, and water was low. I was done. Simply done.

Being the only disguised-American on my trip, I was particularily sensitve about appearing American. So when my tour guide suggested packing on iPod for the climb - I laughed aloud. Ridiculous! I did not trek 3/4 of the way around the worlrd and brave the jungles of Borneo to listen to Ace of Base while summiting the highest mountain in Southest Asia! (*scoff* That would be SO American)

BUT my trip leader promised, there will come a time on the climb when your body decides to say "Fuck you too!" and you'll be glad for that distracting piece of white plastic heaven when you get down the mountain alive.

I'm not going to speculate on the exact mechanism, or how the music works - just testify that it does.

It was with great hesitation that I reached for those headphones - and great relief that I reached 8 km, a bed, a toilet, and hot milo.

You're fat too?

arfox — Sun, 29 Oct 2006 12:49:00 GMT

One of my favorite things to do while backpacking is hit a local supermarket or drug store to check out the dizzying array of local products. A -=great=- way to explore the local culture, and
it usually is quite entertaining as well.

Now, as many of you may agreet - Asian women are simply beautiful. With creamy white complextions and lithe figures, as a whole, the female asian population (please forgive me for the gross generalization) should be quite enviable to our increasingly obese North American population.

But folks - do not fret, as I discovered yesterday - WOMEN ARE THE SAME EVERYWHERE!!

Strolling down the personal care ailes at the local "Watsons" was like a stroll through a bizzaro Walgreens, with aisles up aisles of deoderants packed with "extra - whitening ingredients" and *sigh* I was
quite relieved to see a sizeable collection of weight loss and fat blocking supplements.

YES! There is a god! And women everywhere -=do=- think they're fat.

KL: A Day in Four Acts

arfox — Sat, 28 Oct 2006 01:46:00 GMT

Cast
(in order of appearance)
Backpacker - Traveller in a foreign land
Free Shuttle Driver - Malaysian man of Indian descent
Smiling Man - Malaysian man of Malay descent
Planetarium - an inanimate structure housing Malaysia's National Space Administration.
Cab Driver - elderly Malaysian man of Chinese descent
Hadi - young Malaysian woman working in a guesthouse

ACT ONE
(At the base of Menara KL Tower in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. The World's 4th Largest Tower)

FREE SHUTTLE DRIVER: Free Shuttle Miss! Free Shuttle!

(BACKPACKER stares blankly)

FREE SHUTTLE DRIVER: Free Shuttle take you to tower miss! Free no charge.

(BACKPACKER climbs into minibus)

FREE SHUTTLE DRIVER: Where you from?
BACKPACKER: Canada.

(FREE SHUTTLE DRIVER snickers loudly)

FREE SHUTTLE DRIVER:  You from Canada?
BACKPACKER:  Yup.
FREE SHUTTLE DRIVER: You from Canada really? (laughs obnoxiously) You no from America?!
BACKPACKER:  No, I'm from Canada. Ever been to Canada?
FREE SHUTTLE DRIVER: No. Me from Australia. (laughs loudly)
BACKPACKER:   Really? That's one hell of an accent.

ACT TWO
(On Julan Perdana in Kuala Lumpur)

(SMILING MAN smiles widely)

BACKPACKER: Hello there.

(SMILING MAN continues to smile widely)

BACKPACKER: (smiling) Hot today (flaps arms indicating external temperature  quite warm) Planetarium this way? (Points up very steep hill)
SMILING MAN: (points further down road) Lake Country this way. Very very nice.  Gardens.
BACKPACKER: I see. Thank you. (continues to point up steep hill)    Planetarium? (mimics person watching a show in a star theatre)
SMILING MAN: Close Today. Holiday. You go Lake Country. Orchid Garden.   Butterfly Garden. Very Very nice. I show you.
BACKPACKER: Oh, thank you so much. (points up steep hill) I try Planetarium first. But thank you - I see Lake Country after. Thank you! (smiles wildly)
SMILING MAN: (smiling wildly) I show you!
BACKPACKER: (takes giant step backwards and speaks quickly) No thank you - thank you so much, I'll go this way thank you, you have a great afternoon and thank you.

(BACKPAKER painstakingly climbs steep hill in search of planetarium)

PLANETARIUM: The smiling man said it's a holiday you dumbass. I'm closed.
BACKPACKER: (panting) Of course you are!

ACT THREE
(Outside the exit of the Orchid Garden in Kuala Lumpur. High above the city, a great distance from the city center. Clouds are gathering and thunder sounds)

BACKPACKER: Imbi?
CAB DRIVER: Where you go? I take you there.
BACKPACKER: Imbi? Near Time Square?
CAB DRIVER: Yes, yes. I take you.
BACKPACKER: Meter?
CAB DRIVER: No. 15 Ringgit.
BACKPACKER: (looks at gathering clouds) Meter?
CAB DRIVER: No. 15 Ringgit miss. I take you there.

(BACKPACKER climbs into cab)

CAB DRIVER: Where you from?
BACKPACKER: canada.
CAB DRIVER: (swoons) Oh!! I love Canada!! All Canada ladies are beautiful!
BACKPACKER: Oh I'm sure you say that to all the ladies.
CAB DRIVER: Oh yes! I love the Canada, America, Norway, all the Western ladies very very beautiful.
BACKPACKER: Ah. I think the Malaysian women are beautiful.
CAB DRIVER: (scrunches face) Oh no! Just western ladies.
BACKPACKER: Where are you from? Are you from Malaysia?
CAB DRIVER: Yes. I from Malaysia. Where you want to go? I take you there.
BACKPACKER: To Imbi please, near Time Square.
CAB DRIVER: No, where else you want? Petronas tower, National Mosque, Chinatown, I take you everywhere, big discount.
BACKPACKER: Oh no thank you. Just Imbi please
CAB DRIVER: No where you want? I take you all places. I take you no charge. You very beautiful.
BACKPACKER: No thank you. I have to go back to the hotel.
CAB DRIVER: Why? Where you go? I take you there. You go to airport? I take you there.
BACKPACKER: Thank you - I have arranged for transport already.
CAB DRIVER: S'okay. I take you. I wait and take you. First go to Chinatown.
BACKPACKER: NO, i really must go back to my hotel to pack. I leave tonight.
CAB DRIVER: Oh no! Leave tonight! Where you go?
BACKPACKER: Tonight I fly to Borneo to meet a tour group.
CAB DRIVER: Borneo! I go too. I take you to airport and come too.

(BACKPACKER stares blankly)

CAB DRIVER: You very beautiful. I come with you and take you out. I take you  to coffee and drink.
BACKPACKER: I'm not sure your family would like that.
CAB DRIVER: S'okay. First we go to Chinatown. You like Chinese food.
BACKPACKER: No, just Imbi please. Must pack.
CAB DRIVER: I help you pack. When you come to Malaysia you must be lone. You like to talk to local people. Learn Malay. I teach you Malay. I come with you. Show you around when you come to Malaysia. I go to America maybe you show me around.
BACKPACKER: I'm not sure my boyfriend would like that.
CAB DRIVER: How long you gone from boyfriend? Maybe you have America boyfriend and Malaysia friend.
BACKPACKER: Is it always this rainy in Kuala Lumpur?
CAB DRIVER: I take you to Chinatown?
BACKPACKER: No, just Imbi.
CAB DRIVER: You call me tonight. I take you out all around. No Charge.
BACKPACKER: Its really too bad I didn't meet you yesterday. You could have taken me all around
CAB DRIVER: You call tomrorrow? I take you everywhere.
BACKPACKER: Nope. Tomorrow gone. too bad. must be fate. You know fate?
CAB DRIVER: Yes, yes. Fate. Like walking (makes walking feet motion with free hand)
BACKPACKER: Oh no. FATE not feet. Like destiny? You know destiny? When     something that's not supposed to happen doesn't happen?
CAB DRIVER: You very very beautiful.
BACKPACKER: Yes, thanks, so are you. Is that at buddha statue? (points to Buddha statue on dashboard)
CAB DRIVER: Yes yes Chinese buddah. You know buddha?
BACKPACKER: I know some about buddha. Which buddha is this?
CAB DRIVER: Chinese buddha. Lady buddha. Thai buddha is man. Tibet buddha is man. Chinese buddha lady. I like the lady.
BACKPACKER: Surprise!

(CAB DRIVER stops near Imbi)

BACKPACKER: Thank you sir.
CAB DRIVER: I take you out now - I have number?
BACKPACKER: Oh no, I have no number (gets cash) Thank you very much.
CAB DRIVER: I take you out? Pretty pretty lady?
BACKPACKER: (laughs) Good luck with that!

ACT FOUR
(BACKPACKER enters hostel after long day)

HADI:  Good Day?
BACKPACKER: Excellent Day.
HADI:  You walk back?
BACKPACKER: Oh no, took a cab.
HADI:  Oh no! Malay taxi are so bad! How much you pay?
BACKPACKER: 15 Ringgit
HADI:  Oh no! You pay way to much!!
BACKPACKER: Its really okay. It was my entertainment budget for the day.
HADI:  (scrunches face) You get screwed!
BACKPACKER: (laughs) You have no idea.

Why? Part I

arfox — Fri, 27 Oct 2006 00:00:00 GMT

Inevitably in my travels, there comes a time when I ask Why.

Usually more than "a" time, several times infact, and I notice these times as I ease through them as if I’m passing through Kübler-Ross's five stages.

The first time ( so sooory to leave you ) typically hits the night before departure. This could range up to a week beforehand - depending on where I am and where I’m going and most importantly - who I'm leaving behind. (SSTLY) is inextricably linked to the act of saying goodbye and the acknowledgement that I am about to be very very alone for a given period of time. The intensity of the question varies of course with the nature of the relationships left behind - ranging from, "remind me why I'm leaving again?” to the ever-inspiring "why on earth did you let me sign up for this?"

This is a low-point, inevitably followed by the act of departure itself and a reinstatement of courage (triggered by the realization that I've checked in for my flight online and it is impossible to refund my ticket).

The second trough (oh dear god make it stop) comes upon arrival, but before the first night of fitful sleep. After the adventure of finding my way from the airport to the budget accommodation (in the cheapest manner possible) wears off, I find myself standing in front of a shanty shack saying "this looks nothing like the picture on the website". Panic sets in. I'm given a tour of the "facilities" and interestingly enough, I wistfully look back to past shanty shacks I've bedded down in and fervently wish myself back there. ("Damn, that flea-infested meditation mat in the communal kitchen of the Rongbuk monastery sure looks awfully good right now") I see my room and ask "why, why do I continue to be fooled by the special 'make the room look like more than 10 square feet big' camera angles?"

At this point I've given up all hope of milking a single second of enjoyment from my trip, and run down a list of coping options including pre-paying for 3 weeks stay and crawling under the "covers" to cry and ... paying for a full fare ticket home in the next 5 minutes.
The *theme* of the story is folks - WHY? why do I travel, why do I do it alone, and why do I continue to do it even now when mobility is not only a hobby but my vocation mandated way of life?

This is the question with which I grapple and will continue to grapple so long as I ride the peaks and troughs of backpacking. I promise dear friends - 'tis not all so dire ... and I do remember that it all gets better. I have a vague sense that I'll wake up in the morning happy to be here ... but on night 0.75 - I need a little reminding Why.

Gallery: Malaysia

arfox — Thu, 26 Oct 2006 23:57:00 GMT

pittsburgh is pretty

arfox — Thu, 28 Sep 2006 11:14:00 GMT

Have you ever been to Pittsburgh?

I wasn't thrilled to hear that I would be travelling to "that other city in Pennsylvania" for a week long training session. Sure, the 45 minute direct flight was nice (my regular commute is around 12 hours - connecting service), but come on! Pittsburgh?!

So...um, Pittsburgh is pretty nice! Apologies to all those who live here or love here - yes I should have given you more of a chance from the beginning. I also apologize for spending the past three nights in my hotel room grubbing (extremely dissapointing) Hilton room service rather than supporting your local eateries and entertainment outlets.

Now to the point. Why did I judge PIT so harshly? How did I form my chilly dreary funless-for-me yet vague impression? I can't even think of a single television show or movie memorably set in this city. (My apologies to the all the memorable tv shows and movies set in Pittsburgh)

So this leads me to wonder, how many other destinations am I avoiding due to vague and potentially(?) uniformed impressions? WHERE DO YOU COME FROM?! Is there any instinct in here?

This trip has been eye-opening on many levels. Downtown Pittsburgh is very pretty. Should I be headed to Detroit?