unculturednearanimallevel

Back in NYC

alexkozovski — Sat, 4 Sep 2010 22:45:00 GMT

I realize there exists a massive hiatus in my writing between now and Leh but it was inevitable. At some point it became a necessity to live and experience rather than sit behind a computer and write about it. For next time I think I have an idea of how to make this more seamless...

As this is a goodbye, it is mandatory to put down a few lines about the overall experience.

I met some amazing people during this trip, went to some beautiful, ugly, dirty, frightening, untouched, unreal, familiar, and absolutely different places and now I think I am ready to sit down and start and finish my Masters Degree. I think?!

Thanks to everyone and everything that made this summer unforgettable and much love to my family and grandmother, which were the ending of my trip but a very appropriate homecoming. I think I am finally proud to be Bulgarian, and in my own way I know what this means. A very different definition that I would have assumed.

Thats all.

School starts on September 7th and meanwhile all blogging (if any) will be transferred to http://lovelikerobots.blogspot.com/. Feel free to follow me on twitter as well at lovelikerobots.

Bye and farewell and beijos

Manali to Leh motorcycle trip

alexkozovski — Thu, 22 Jul 2010 16:08:00 GMT

Ok, so I know I promised to write more about India but there is something more that is intriguing me far more.

Just a quick background. I am currently in Mcleod Ganj/Dharamsala, the city for the exiled government of Tibet aka this is where the Dalai Lama lives. Its fantastic and its high up in the Himalayas. Sometimes it rains, sometimes it doesnt but after the insane heat of New Delhi this place is a phenomenal respite. All around are the mountains and I can actually see the clouds going through the town. Its absolutely stunning.

Tomorrow I am getting on bus and heading further up, higher into the Himalayas towards Kashmir. The town is called Menali, and while I hear its nothing special, to me it means a perfect point to rent a motorcycle and and begin a grueling muddy 500km journey to Leh, a city in Kashmir, nestled some 3524 meters (11,562 ft) in the Himalayas.

I will admit, I am not prepared for this trip, but it is bound to be amazing.

I leave you with some photos of what the passes look like.

India just a bit

alexkozovski — Tue, 20 Jul 2010 22:34:00 GMT

Apologies for my absence. I have been in India for the past 6 days and likewise for the those few days I have attempted to sit down and write about what has happened and experiences. But in all honesty, for the first time words I lack the words to describe my being here, or actually I have too many words. I promise I will put my thoughts together and will make sure to lay down something worth while shortly.

Besos

Viva Espana

alexkozovski — Thu, 8 Jul 2010 22:08:00 GMT

Pretty amazing couple of days culminating in the insane win of Spain over Germany.

There is not much I can say about this match. Everyone who likes futbol/soccer has watched and knows what how dazzling those 90 minutes were. Yes, it was entertaining, crushing and ultimately cathartic. My contribution was wearing the spanish flag, unrelentingly optimistic and patriotic for a country that is not my own. I think this is a good idea, as it makes for a nice contrast overall.

Otherwise life is good. No grand plans for today as I am once again nursing a hangover. Maybe its time for a break. Last night coming home at around 4 or 5 am, I had a little rendezvous with 5 prostitutes. Apparently to them I looked like I needed company, and could use a few women to alleviate my natural inclinations. Fair enough, no arguments but what they didnt take into account is the morsel of pseudo morality I have, and the inconceivable thought of supporting someone who has sex for money. The thought makes me not only not excited but instead instills a grey swirl of the great sadness in me. And anger, anger against their condition, their surroundings, their world and the people and actions that were taken to get them to this terrible place in life. Argue all you want, but this is how I feel about the so called oldest profession in the world. Back to the story.

At this point I am harmlessly crossing Gran Via* a big commercial street, with theaters restaurants and tons of shpping* towards Sol*the main square, the gate of the sun, kilometer zero, the bear and where everything started from*, happy to have actually found my way in my state of inebriation. I was coming from a club that was pretty far, so imaging my relief when I found something familiar that could orient me enought so as to get to the hostel.

As I am walking, or weaving, and hopping more so than usual, deep in great thought, what shall I have for breakfast the following morning, maybe ham etc, I am suddenly pulled backwards via the flag around my neck, now taut and like a leash, I am forced to stop. The irony as you will read, is that the spanish flag will be used to encourage me to exploit and abuse in depraved ways . Sounds a bit familiar, historically.

I spin around only to find myself face to face with a leering, exceedingly debaucherous set of eyes. I refocus my drunken stare and I see that I am surrounded by 5 girls in various states of sexual decay. I pulled on the flag, but I only got machine fire spanish. Que, QUESTION MARK. I have no idea what the hell they are saying. The gestures were clear enought though. So I panicked. Confused and recoiling from their touch, I tried to get away but 2 were still holding the flag. Protecting my nether parts from prying hands, no doubt meaning well, as in to give me a preview of the night, I pushed one to the side as I wrestled with other 2 to retrieve my flag. An obscene ballet of movements from yours truly, not exactly the most graceful in the world.

Now I can add wrestled with prostitutes to my brief but maybe eclectic list of things I have accomplished. I managed to pull the flag from fake nailed hands, caloused and ringed, suffocating in a noxious cloud of perfume and vague scent of sperm I jumped, the flag in my hand fully extended waving as I am now in full sprint. Now I am ok. Such is the night I suppose. My roomates at the hostel were packing, 2 australian kids from Melbourne, I bid them goodbye and fell dead in bed.

On the more mellow side, there is a wonderful park here, called Retiro. Give to the people by the monarch it is truly a peaceful place full of surprises, like glass houses with installation pieces and lakes with boats. A nice atmosphere. I spent a few hours there drafting the first pages of a story or maybe a novel. All this traveling has inspired me and as I am battered between the extremes of happiness and sadness, sobriety and utter drunkness and long walks around the city I feel content. For the first time I feel content and this worries me. I have never felt this. Fortunately or unfortunately depending on what time of day you ask me, there is a change coming up and my trip to India is looming in the horizon. What was just a ball of thoughts and visceral expectations is now becoming a reality. Thanks everyone who has made my time in Spain so fantastic. I dont mean to sound terminal as I still have a few days left here, however the thought is out like a bat out of hell ricocheting around the vistas of the everyday experience.

Thats it I have to go. Besos.

More Madrid nights and Segovia

alexkozovski — Tue, 6 Jul 2010 18:39:00 GMT

Ok. Madrid has been consistently willing to party with me for the past few days. Yesterday as big group from the hostel we went raging. While maybe we didnt visit the greatest venues, the pub crawl was super fun. People were hooking up so fun for sure.

Yesterday I went to Segovia, but I didnt eat the suckling pig. I did find out why its called suckling pig and my stomach turned a bit. 20 days on mothers milk and then on the plate.

Thats about it. I might go to the modern museum today. too hungover to go anywhere else that requires extensive train travel. There is talk of renting a car and going to Pamplona and St. Sebastian. Let¨s see.

If you want a postcard send me your address and I will mail you one. Embrace it.

besos.

Madrid

alexkozovski — Mon, 5 Jul 2010 05:10:00 GMT

Its been an insane few days. Have been in Madrid for the past 2 days, and met up with Renee and Javier who were awesome to let me crash in their hotel room, even though I think I snore something wicked.

Flew Ryanair from Porto, Portugal, which is a completely different story, but that city is amazing. Small, sleepy and absolutely stunning, both architecturally and people wise.

I met a a great girl, Milena, an artist, who is saving my bag there, since travelling with the big backpack is big no no with Ryanair, unless I am willing to cough up the dough.

Back to Madrid. City is insane, for the past 2 nights we have been going back to the beds at 5 or 6. We are always eating and drinking. The city is filth, grime and its architecture is people, not buildings. The streets are perpetually flooded with the human stream heading from a tapas, to cerveceria to a bar etc.

Not to mention that, I aptly timed my visit with pride day plus for the first time in history Spain is advancing in the world cup past the knockout stages.

Also this is teh city if you like Goya and Velazquez and for some reason are craving some Il Bosco or Il Greco. heh

Ok bye.

Ill post some photos soon.

Last day

alexkozovski — Thu, 1 Jul 2010 05:14:00 GMT

I am leaving tomorrow and am full of contradictory emotions. Nothing new more or less. One is the expansive happiness to change, to move on , onwards to something new and interesting, natural ebb and flow, the exciting horror of new wrapped in a blanket so soothing to me.

Ofcourse the other is, I really like this place, I like surfing, I like camping, I like flowing in and out of existence between the waves, my life concentrated on one point and one point only, a gleam in the sun.

It is obvious that it is because I cannot make up my mind that I am sunburned. Serves me right.

I catch the bus tomorrow to Lisbon and from there with train to Porto.

Iºll miss this place and due to the overwhelming nostalgia I am experiencing Iºll keep this post brief.

Beijos

Portugal vs Spain and some surfing.

alexkozovski — Wed, 30 Jun 2010 07:05:00 GMT

Ok. It appears that you are reading this blog. Yes YOU!! You make me happy and I love you.

The first night sleeping in the tent was quite eventful. First it started raining, thank you tent for being waterproof (to a point)but ofcourse nothing is waterproof, so a few drops made it through. I welcomed them as old friends, after all if this is the worst, then bring it on. I fell back in sleep, to wake up to being tossed around in my tent. First thought was that I had been blown into the ocean and now my tent was a makeshift boat. Well, not apparently the stakes finally gave out, with the gusts being so strong. Comically the tent and I were sent rolling down the campground, in mud and sticks, like some sort of over-excited ferris-wheel on a speed binge.

I dragged the carcass of vinyl,cloth and plastic back to the site and put it back together. I felt very manly and grown up holding the flashlight in my mouth, while trying to figure out how to re-assemble. No one was hurt, No problem. However to be precise there was a casualty.A sad occurrence, my book ``Breakfast in America`` is unfortunately now ``Mud in Portugal``. Thankfully I managed to finish it earlier. I went back to sleep.

The next morning was not nearly as eventful as the night before. I went about running the usual travel errands- where can I do laundry, where shall I eat etc. I stumbled upon a tiny food store. I could smell the sweetness of the ripe figs and peaches and a few euros later they were in my stomach. Breakfast solved, it was time to go surfing at the Praia Ribeira DÍlhas.

So I started walking.

A few kilometers later, and then about 389 steps down the cliffs I was at the beach staring at some very nice 1.5-2m waves and about 10 surfers scattered in the water. Seeing surfers always makes me laugh, in their wetsuits they remind me of plump, shiny and especially lazy sea lions as they sit and wait for the waves to come. Well soon I was in a wetsuit running towards the break, yearning to catch a wave. Ofcourse this is no weak North American Beach, no, this one has rocks and dips and cracks all concealed by green slippery life underneath. And Of course the moment I entered the water, I found this concealed topography first hand as I slammed face down in the water. All good. The water and my face broke the fall.

A few words. I have never surfed anything so treacherous before. There are rocks poking out of the water pretty much where you dont want rocks to poke out of the water. The entire bottom is full of holes and ravines withing the rock. The bottom is not sand but rock. The surf however was amazing, and I caught some amazing waves. Worth the little blood shed from the various scrapes against the rocks.

The break subsided, mid tide had turned into low and it was time for a break for me. I lay on the beach as the hours passed, reading, watching the waves, watching people, skin everywhere and it was time to go to the match. SPAIN VS PORTUGAL

You more than likely know how it all ends, and depending on your point of view, it was either I tragedy or a triumph. No matter, watching this in a cafe, drinking beer after beer, it was a sad day for Portugal. Chairs were thrown, bottles broken and tears shed. But somehow magically it all condensed into a disco party fueled by a street side automobile , crowd spilling into the street, dancing. Strange and really fun.

Tomorrow is another surfing day if the weather is good, and I need to get some more of those figs. And one more thing. When you order olives in Portugal you get so many. I love this country, for so many reasons but especially for the olives.

Beijos

The last few days

alexkozovski — Tue, 29 Jun 2010 06:53:00 GMT

My sincere apologies for not writing sooner.

It has been an amazing time, and the internet can be a scarcity. However in case anyone was wondering, I can happily say that my beard has been growing as expected. Soon I hope i can braid it and put beads in it.

The last few days have been wild with various trips around Lisboa with my new Spanish crew. Its really interesting how you can meet really amazing people when traveling, and everytime I am somewhere new and I encounter complete strangers to share a room, the space reveals some incredible and brilliant peeps. I am lucky to have met some very good people while traveling. Especially in Portugal where I have met some cool super friendly young people. I thank Fortuna.

However, now I am once again on my own. There is a sense of saudade, to borrow a phrase from the Portuguese, but it is the curse and the blessing of traveling alone. One goes when, where and how he/she wants but sometimes when you need to share a laugh with someone, you are left with only your reflection in the bus window and the blur of villages and towns phasing out your thoughts. I usually get sleepy at that point.

I have since taken to talking to my Lonely Planet guide, and this antropomorphisation(spelling?) is helping. It is like having a friend in your backpack. But enough of this. Theorising can be boring.

I am now in a tiny coastal town about 100 km north from Lisboa. It is called Ericeira, and it is the place were the WQS for Surfing happen. Its a beautiful old place, the city centre is all little cobbled streets and whitewashed little houses hanging over the cliffs. The smell of grilled sardinighias waving through.

The plan was to get a tent, which I did and camp out by the ocean for a few days. Enjoy the weather, the sun and ofcourse most importantly -do some surfing.

The tent is up, and the surfboard all worked out. A 6.4 tri fin fish, but sadly as is usually the nature of dealing with the ocean, now the weather is crazy. The ocean looks like it can smother you, if only if you gaze at it, and peering over the cliff, I feel the heaviness, the solid saltiness of the air. A very ominous sight, and between the diffues light and fog you make gigantic white waves slamming on the shore, pushing and pulling, revealing black inky rocks, jagged underneath. An awe inspiring sight but not for surfing. It is but really a whirlpool, a washing machine. I am hoping tomorrow will be a bit more sane. And I can get some wave time.

The match between Chile and Brasil ofcourse brough out all the Brasilians and this slow quiet, introspective city became a insane party of horns and passionate cries of Brasil.

In a few days I head back to Lisboa and then the express to Porto. A few days in Porto and then off to Madrid to meet Javier and Renee.

Sorry this post will not have photos, as the machine will now allow but I promise I will add them soon.

Beijos and talk soon

More Lisboa and an Ariel Pink Show...yeah!

alexkozovski — Sat, 26 Jun 2010 09:44:00 GMT

Hello again.

Amazing day today. Last night I went drinking with some French girls from Bordeaux. Surprisingly they were tons of fun. We went to dance at a place called Chapitos, which is also an art studio. The view was fantastic and after, we went to Barrio Alto, for a few on the street parties. Amazing but fact, outside drinking is ok. So a few caipirihnas later we headed back to the hostel and I found some new people in my room. Its a dorm room with 6 beds so its always a great surprise who will show up. These were 3 girls from Madrid. Fantastic people. At first we looked at each other, with the same expression of who is this stranger in my room while I am undressing, however after a brief chat we became cool.

It was with them that I went to Sintra today. Sintra is a brief 40 min train ride northwest from Lisboa. It was the summer castle of the royalty so appropriately the massive stone blocks of the castle enclose a luxury one did not see on the streets below.

Close to the castle but completely unrelated is a Toy museum. This thing is amazing. Entry is 4 euros, but its completely worth it. There are toys from last century, hobby horses, airplanes, train sets, dolls of every imaginable color and material, each exceeding any acceptable level of creepy. It was fantastic.

Ofcourse no day is complete without suffering and watching the World Cup and your favorite teams not doing what they should be doing, winning.

Portugal Brazil, huge rivalry, insane teams, not a crazy game. Equal score

Spain and Chile. An amazing game,made even more amazing by watching it outside in a Plaza with hundreds of Spain supporters. Spain 2, Chile 1.Yes there was a red card, but details can be so boring.

After, we had some food and drink and I headed to Espacio m, a venue where Ariel Pinkºs haunted graffiti was playing. Amazing show, amazing space, fantastic sound and 2 euro beers.

Met a Lisboan, from whom I bummed a cigarette, but that was a ploy to get him to talk to me. Had a fantastic chat, met a few of his friends, had a few drinks and headed back.

Overall fantastic day. Have a day or 2 more in Lisboa and then I think its time to go South and do some surfing.

More to come later.

Lisboa Barrio Alto Day2

alexkozovski — Thu, 24 Jun 2010 20:11:00 GMT

Ok, day 2 of Lisboa in addition to my typhoid vaccine for India. Delightful.

I just woke up to some italians packing, but they were very nice and gave me their bus pass.

Letºs see what happens today. I need an espresso and a pastry, but really I would like some grilled fish and olives and a cold beer to nurse the fogginess of last night.

Lisboa

talk soon

Lisboa Day 1

alexkozovski — Thu, 24 Jun 2010 10:23:00 GMT

Ok so a few things happened today that I should share. Number one, I had a tiff with a british airways fellow, whom I called a retarded little monkey.

You see my NYC to London flight was running late, and when I was pushed to the front of the line in London to make my flight to Lisbon a stubborn little piece decided to stick to his rule book and be a prick. There was yelling and after the security was called and he was removed for being a problem, I made my flight nonetheless.

I land in Lisbon, a beautiful aerial view, such a pretty city. I promise to post some photos tomorrow ; head over to the baggage claim to pick up my backpack. Well, interestingly enough, BA lost it. Amazing, and brilliant. Books clothes, etc lost. At that point, the concept of losing my luggage in direct comparison to the lack of sleep and interesting service did not disturb me.

Just got my backpack now. Seems like everything will be alright.

All in all, I had a great time today. Walked around the city, managed to figure out how to say things in Portuguese, and realized that the girls in Portugal are absolutely stunning... wow.

We( new hostel friends) just came back from a night out, where it was awkwardness and weird as our closest drinking partners got progressively more loose but somehow we managed to go looking for a disco and not find it.

An aside is that I managed sleepily to watch the Worldcup and Friday is going to be insane here. Father and son, Brazil and Portugal are going head to head. I have more details to go into but Ill leave you with a picture of a tram.

Stay good stay healthy

Alex K

3 days left in NYC

alexkozovski — Sat, 19 Jun 2010 06:39:00 GMT

Hello, How are you.

I'm flying out in a few days but somehow I am going to miss summer in NYC. There is no time for saudade or nostalgia however. My backpack is semi packed, all shots up to date, travel insurance check, 120 film check, my trusty Canon digital, guide books and enough shorts and tees to get me through to next year.

The rough plan is only mandated by my flight itinerary, so I will be traveling fairly spontaneously within my destinations. Here is a rough overview.

First stop is Portugal/Spain -approx a month. Then I fly to Delhi, India & around /approx a month, followed by brief stop over in Jordan and then Turkey /20 days.Ultimately I will end up in Sofia, Bulgaria and then back to NYC in September.

I will attempt with discipline to write about the fun times, the sad times, the wet times and the dry time; wherever I am and whatever I am doing, and however I feel.

Please check back starting June 23rd onwards for updates.

See you in a few.

Alex K

Photos: NYC

alexkozovski — Sat, 19 Jun 2010 06:31:00 GMT

Start of trip