Concert in the Crags. . . . with Kate Cerberano, Stiff Gills and Didjeridu Dingo
Warrambungle National Park.
This morning I woke up early in Gardens of Stone. The kookaburras were again laughing at daybreak – 5:23. Currawongs soon joined in the cacophony. A wombat was grazing with the kangaroos and wallabies. After a quick snack and a drink of grapefruit juice I was making my way towards Glen Davis.
Crossing through Gardens of Stone I soon dropped into the agriculture valley on the other side. If there was a perfect valley during my visit this was it. Green pastures surrounded by sandstone cliffs. Continuing towards Glen Davis the valley became more and more narrow. At the end of the road is Glen Davis – small town of a couple hundred people. It was my anticipated stop for last night. I’m glad I didn’t make it. There were no flies at my campsite. Inspite of the flies, birdwatching in the valley was excellent.
I had breakfast with the flies in the town park. It is also a free campground with hot showers. As I finished breakfast the rains returned. I wouldn’t be hiking in the canyon today. Instead I took a shower and got an early start towards the Warrambungles.
The environment quickly changed after Glen Davis. I had enjoyed being in the mountains and canyons. The vegetation was green. By the time I reached Rylstone I was out of the mountains and pastures where brown. The roadside reserves were golden grasses swaying the winds. Mudgee was further from mountains then I wanted to be. For a while I considered returning to Jenolyn Caves for the Sunday morning Ribbon Cave Tour. After finding a free WiFi hotspot in Mudgee I decided to continue on to Coonabarabran. It seemed that I would soon return to the hills and trees.
An hour down the road it did turn green again. It was 3:30 when I drove through Coonabarabran on my way to Warrambungle National Park. The terrain changed. Basalt stacks dotted the landscape. Steep cliffs grew from the flat plains. I knew this was where I wanted to be. Making it even better – I saw two yards with my childhood dream. A dome in the front yard – people with their own private observatory. On the highest peak stood the gleaming white dome of Sliding Spring Observatory. Visitor hours were until 4:00. I was too late to visit.
There was something amiss. Here I was in the middle of nowhere – hundreds of kilometres from the nearest city but it was bumper to bumper traffic. It was de je vue. Last night I dreamt of this and a concert. This morning I woke up thinking, “I’ve never been to a popular music concert.” With preference for ‘classical’ music I’ve been to symphony, opera and chamber concerts innumerable times.
The parking lot at the visitor centre was full. People in security shirts roamed freely. I wondered what I had gotten myself into. I eventually found the campground. It was wall-to-wall cars, caravans and tents. It was like a swarm of bees. People were on a high.
I eventually found a corner to pitch my tent then learned I was in a reserved group site. Fortunately the people were friendly enough to let me stay then told me about the chaos I had found. New South Wales Parks and Wildlife underwrites an annual concert in the crooked crags of Warrumbungle National Park – this year in celebration of its 40 year anniversary. Tonight the Australian sensation and popstar, Kate Ceberano would be performing. Preceding her performance would be several other groups.
After fixing a quick tea I made my way over to the picnic area which was now the concert grounds. Thousands of people were sitting on the lawn. The sound of didgeridoos blasted through the sound system. The Didjeridu Dingo band was performing. After a substantial concert two aboriginal women (Nardi Simpson and Kaleena Briggs – the Stiff Gills – performed a couple vocals. They were unfortunately quickly ushered off to make time for Kate Ceberano. Yes I did see Kate Ceberano perform. I still don’t know who she is. I’ve been to a ‘concert.’ ‘Classical’ music is still my preference.
I eventually made my way back to the tent and listened to the sounds escaping the concert as I attempted to go to sleep. By 11:00 it was mostly quiet...
Before the crowds woke up Sunday I had made my way to the trailhead for the Grand High Tops Circuit. I had come to the Warrambungles for the scenery and wildlife. During my drive in I had seen just enough to wet my appetite. Spires and knife edges protruded from the landscape. A 15 kilometre circuit would get me into the middle of the basin.
Five minutes up the trail was a hikers campsite – if only I’d known this last night. It was free, not $5.00. I’m not going to complain about a $5.00 campsite with a hot shower. It took about an hour to hike to the crags. The trail was the most impressively engineered track I have ever walked. Instead of gravel or dirt – much of the trail was 1 ½ metres wide paved with bricks. Aluminium (yes that spelling is correct in Australia – pronounced al you min ee um) frames supported long stairways to the shoulder of the peaks. A perfect campsite and hikers hut sat beneath the butterknife. If I’d been hiking and if this campsite had been full there are several even nicer campsites in saddles between the peaks. I considered staying another night so I could sleep among the peaks. Unfortunately I needed to start making my way back towards Sydney for my return flights home.
By 12:30 I was back at the car and returning to the now vacant campground to collect my tent and take a shower. Once out of the Warrambungles the landscape changed back to savannas and pastures, except now there were cinder cones sprouting from the fields.
Two hours later I was back in the mountains – this time the New England Mountains. I had forgotten how much I had liked these mountains 10 years ago when doing research here with a lecturer and student from Newcastle University. There are vast areas protected in national parks all in need of a visit.
I only have one day left to see it all . . .
