Dove Lake
I almost didn’t make it.This morning I woke up and checked the map.It clearly indicated a paved road to Walls of Jerusalem.The name itself evoked a sense of awe.I couldn’t resist.I drove twenty kilometres south towards the walls.The road followed the Mersey River.I was delighted, on my way to somewhere I had not been before – somewhere the droves of tourists don’t go.Then there was a sign – gravel road ahead.I wasn’t ready to believe the sign but after a kilometre I found a wide spot and turned around.It was a beautiful camping spot but it was still morning and I had a day for the evening.
An hour later I arrived at Cradle Mountain National Park.This time the sky was royal blue.Much of the snow from a few weeks earlier had melted.I had a haystack for my mid-morning snack.
Curiosity was chanting in my ear.What is the back side of Weindorfers Tower like?I imagined it to be a massif – an unbroken rock face to the valley below.The ranger I’d visited with a few weeks earlier suggested the Lake Rodway was a pleasant walk of a few hours.I had wanted to spend a night at the Scott-Kilvert Memorial Hut on the lake’s shore.I wasn’t going to be able to spare that much time.I was still going to make it a day trip.
I started out with a walk along Dove Lake’s west shore stopping for a few minutes at Glacier Rock.As a safety precaution the rock has been surrounded by a security fence.To reach the gate release one must be adult size.I presume this is to prevent excited children from running out to the rock then taking a surprise plunge into the Dove Lake when they couldn’t stop at the rock’s shear break 20 metres above the icy water.
On toward Hansons Peak.I chose the shorter, but steeper trail, over the peak’s crest rather then walking the low route by Twisted Lake.A bright red warning sign warned – “Rough Trail”I was already struggling to raise myself up the enormous steps.Around the corner the trail became steeper.Chains were strung between metal posts.The trail changed from a rough trail to scrambling up a rocky cliff – still not bad but certainly a little different then the smooth trail I could see below me along the shore of Dove Lake.
The trail lost a little elevation down towards Twisted Lake.Some lakes emit a signal.Twisted Lake was one of them – calling for a quick dip.I was hoping for a slightly warmed lake.It had to be shallow and the sun had been shining for a few days.No such luck.The water was slightly warmer then an ice cube.
A few minutes later I’d left the Face Trail skirting the base of Little Horn, Weindorfers Tower and Cradle Mountain.The new trail narrowed and water flowed down the track.A few boardwalks protected the truly boggy areas.The views only became more magnificent as I rounded the bend and entered a cirque basin on the backside.Artists Pool was rippled by the light breeze but still almost perfectly reflected the peaks above.
1 ½ hours later I arrived at Lake Rodway.My inclination for an overnight stay here was not wrong.The peak above the cabin and lake must be phenomenal in the early morning glow as the sun rises.It was only magnificent near noon.
With my evening deadline looming I debated the route back.The map suggested the Cradle Cirque loop was a long day hike and needed at least 8 hours to complete.I didn’t have that much time.Most of my walks had taken 1/3 to ½ the suggested time.If I was wrong I could always call and reschedule my ferry trip a day or two later – likely what I was wishing for but I was trying to meet friends in Melbourne on the weekend . . .
I chose the Cradle Cirque for a return.After Lake Rodway the trail quickly deteriorated as it careened straight up the mountain.The gravel base turned to mud.The boardwalks were replaced by chest deep gullies.I danced from secure foothold to foothold hoping not to slip in the muddy abyss between but was still making good time.A few minutes later I crested the saddle to find Barn Bluff biding entrance to the High Plateau and Waterfall Valley beyond.If only I could spare an extra day or two this would be a wonderful 2 night trip.I skipped and slipped up the shoulder of Benson Peak.It too needs climbing some day.
A patch of snow blocked the trail.Approaching the middle of the snowfield I had an idea – snow angels.Dropping my pack and propping the camera on my walking stick I lay down, spread my arms and legs making my mark on the snow.
It was a little early in the season.The moss and grass tussocks in the moist pockets were just beginning to plump up and show summer green.Pandanas grew amongst the pencil pine.The whole scene quickly reminded me why I had enjoyed slogging the bogs of Tasmania’s high country.
Boardwalks were again present – an effort to prevent social trailing across the fragile alpine environment.My favorite trail creation is still the floating walkway.Rough hewn planks are wired together and rolled over the bog.Walking the track one watches the walkway ahead rolling as if a wave.Pressure beneath the walkway builds and from the narrowest cracks small geysers erupt to dampen shoes and legs – a perpetual reminder to keep walking or face sudden submersion into a mucky trap.
I spent a few minutes at Marions Lookout before descending the shorter and faster “rough and steep” track down to Dove Lake.The loop had taken about 5 hours.
I stopped at the Cradle Mountain caravan park for a quick shower before tackling the last 85 kilometres of bitumen back to Devonport and the waiting Spirit of Tasmania – pleasant drive along the mountains to the south.Along the way the low fuel light came on.I planned to purchase enough fuel at Cradle Mountain to ensure I could make the trip with worry but the store closed at 4:00pm.I arrived 5 minutes later.Nobody was there.
