The Great Ocean Road.
One of the few things I’d heard about Australia before my first visit was, “You must see the Twelve Apostles.” After three trips and eight months of wandering I finally happened upon the Great Ocean Road.
The highway meanders back and forth between the shear cliffs, heath lands, scrub and forest for several hundred kilometres. There were once Twelve Apostles standing guard along the coast but one fell. Now there are eleven. London Bridge once connected a monolith to the shore but the sea tore it down. Now a smaller arch remains – impressive none-the-less. There is also The Arch. Lord Ard Gorge with Razor Back, Mutton Bird Island, The Blowhole and several other canyons and chasms could fill a whole day of exploration. Honestly though the Kalbarri Ocean Cliffs and Elliston Cliffs had a greater impact on me. Access to Kalbarri and Elliston is not as easy as the 12 Apostles but I’m glad I have been there!
For me the Great Ocean Road came to life east of Apollo Bay. The highway is chiseled from the cliffs. The steep draws are blanketed with lush vegetation. Steep gorges have been carved by streams. Interspersed along the way, where the road returns to the sea’s level, are rocky beaches. A few sandy crescents grace the deeper bays.
I stopped at Kennett River to use the phone to change my Tasmania sailing. Looking over my shoulder I noticed trees filled with brilliantly coloured parrots and rosellas. There was a caravan park there. I couldn’t resist the birds.
“This is the place for me.”
I walked over to book a night. $27 for a one or two people. I asked if there was a discount for one person. “No, that’s the price, it’s school break you know. We won’t give a cut during break.”
I walked off, commenting, “Your caravan park is empty.”
“Wait, we can work a deal.”
I continued on my way.
A few kilometres down the road I found Cumberland Gorge Caravan Park. They let me in for almost half the cost. It was a quieter location. The scenery was much better. I slept to the sounds of the stream flowing behind the van. A pleasant beach was on the other side of the highway. The only down side to Cumberland was the 20 cent hot water charge – surely encouragement for water conservation. I gladly paid the excess for my first shower in days.
The view from the Ocean Road was so extraordinary that come morning I drove back to Apollo Bay before making my back along the road to Melbourne. I stopped at Kennett River again to see the birds.
A koala with little one was wedged in a tree’s fork.
Oh, so adorable – beyond cute!
It was while retracing my steps that I finally saw HER. The one and only. . . (Sorry Claire you don’t count, you’re attractive, awesome and in a league of your own. Keep the world watching). For weeks I’ve been stopping to watch surfers. Without fail a surfer brings his girlfriend along.
It’s early in the morning.
The air is chill.
While he is out in the water she sits ashore looking beautiful – actually looking bored and pacing back and forth attempting to keep warm.
Today I found THE girl willing to brave the waters with her friends. She wasn’t a great surfer – neither were the blokes – but she was out in the water enjoying herself, not hanging on the beach tediously watching her watch wishing her man to soon return.
A few kilometres down the road at Lorne I finally found a beach with waves that looked like even I could ride them.
It is the first time I’ve had second thoughts about going to Tasmania.
Maybe I should stay – learn to surf.
