Ines (my pilgrimage mentor:-) ) assures that my recent feelings of disorientation, disconnectedness and 'lost-in-space' are only stage 6 of the pilgrim's journey! Very well documented apparently. This seemingly integral stage was perefectly highlighted and magnified by a bout of food-poisoning. I didn't even order the salmon, they brought me the 'wrong' meal, but I obliged with the universe, and ate it (while ignoring Sabrina tell me that my fish smelt really bad).
On Monday, 2nd. September, we left Lübeck, a day earlier than planned, my chest cold miraculously clearing over night. After 8 hours travelling we arrived in Cochem (via Hamburg and Koblenz - 'Kobey Lands'), a picture-postcard village on the Moselle River, complete with castle, narrow alleyways, half-timbered houses and town gates, and surrounded by vineyards planted down the steep valley walls.
Made the trek up to Burg Eltz, which is 30km upstream - a medieval castle hidden away in the forest on the left bank of the Moselle. It has been owned by the same family for almost 1,000 years and has never been destroyed - the building or the family; quite amaying considering how easily both structures can be brought to rubble so easily. A guided tour was so informative we even learnt how the toilets worked back then!
On Thursday we went to Trier (via Bernkastel-Kues - the salmon!). Trier is Germany's oldest city, founded by Romans in 15BC and by the 3rd. century was the capital of the Western Roman Empire. There is an amazing collection of Roman monuments - Porta Nigra is the brooding 2nd. century city gate, blackened by time, hence 'Black Gate'. For its time it was an engineering marvel, held together by only iron rods, and it's sinister design was to enable attackers to be caught in the concealed central courtyard. Trier Dom is like a fortress and built over the palace of Helena, mother of Constantine. The dimensions of Konstantinbasilika are mind-blowing. It was built in AD310 as Constantine's throne hall. It is now a Protestant church, but it's life has been ever-changing; its today always seeming to be in dirct opposition to its yesterday, leaving only wonder at what its tomorrow will look like. Other Constantine creations include the Kaisertherman - remains of a vast thermal bathing complex; Ampitheater - once capable of holding 20,000 spectators during gladiator tournaments and animal fights; and other baths and bridges. Muriel and I often used to talk of the depth of history and tangibility of ancient roots that can be sensed in Germany that is so hard to find in Australia. In places like Trier it is like diving deep into a pool of fluid history and tangled roots. It could be easy to forget to come back up for breath.
So, our stay in Cochem had to be extended until I was able to travel; luckily Jörg was there to change our travel plans and care for Sabrina and Phoebe. He is happy and well and sends many greetings to all back home.
We spent last weekend in Stuttgart with Muriel and her family. We were lucky as Merlin was also home, which he rarely is these days. They are both still exceptional people and now, having met Manfred and Susan, I can understand how this is so. Such a beautiful and inspiring family. Two days was too short, but as Manfred declared, long enough to become part of the family - something that can never be undone.
When saying a rushed good-bye to Susan on Monday morning I was overwhelmed with gratitude and wonder at having met (not ony met, but discovered, loved and established deep connections with) so many amazing, wonderful and beautiful people over the last 2 months. Manfred, Susan, Merlin, Christine, Muriel, Pia, Peter, Hanna, Sandra, Daniel, Jonas, Tina, Rolf, Dagmar, Patrick, Connie, Charlotta, Friederika, Jutta, Stefan, Lisa, Tamara. Thank-you all,
Lisa, Sabrina and Phoebe.
PS. For various reasons, no more photos till we get home.
