Update from the field

Train to Cuzco

teresa421 — Fri, 25 May 2007 20:37:00 GMT

The train from Puno to Cuzco is a 10 hour ride that takes the rider through the sacred valley and parts of peru that have managed for thousands of years with a simple lifestyle characterized by lots of work. THe day was perfect for our trip with temps in the 70's and a perfectly blue sky as a backdrop. The folks on the train were strictly about 1st class service. We opted to take the first class as a special way to celebrate the birthday of one of our traveling collaborators. The train is small and well maintained. Our seats are actually arm chairs with high backs seated around a linen draped table. The trip includes a three course dinner with first rate service. THe train itself consists of our car, the dining car and the vistadome car. The vistadome is open air and has windows in the roof of the car to improve the visibility and views. The back of the train is open and when standing on the back you can see the landscape open up as we trek through the valley surrounded by mountains on both sides. As we begin our trip it's not long before we find ourselves traveling through the countryside. It is fall here and the people are working to bring in the barley as well as tend to the sheep and llama herds. Since it's a Saturday the towns we go through are in the midst of laying out their wares for the weekly market. THere are no walmarts or targets here (thank goodness) so if one needs supplies it seems they go to the market. The market has an amazing assortment of tools, tires, clothes, and anything else a person may need in this world to survive. It is fun to glide through the towns where some people wave while others (usually young boys) throw rocks at or near the train. I think it's a game of sorts to see who can come closest to the train with their pebble. We haven't traveled long on the train before we are told that we will be honored to have a shaman or priest to bless the trip with ceremonial incense and cocca leaves. THe cocca leaves are selected carefully as a part of the shaman's ritual. Once the three leaves have been selected the shaman spreads them like a card spread and waves them N,S,E and W while making sure the incense is also wafting through the leaves. THe Shaman then blows a large conch shell and wishes safety for all as we pass through the land on this magnificent train ride. The ride while ten hours seems to end all too soon. THe folks on the train seem to enjoy the ride in different ways. Some read books, some try a few psico sours, some run from side to side taking pictures and waving as we pass the people and their towns. THe journey is magical in that I try to wave and get as many as I can to wave back. Sometimes the peruvians are passive, some might smile, some wave enthusiastically, others raise a hand or smile in acknowledgement. The fun for me of course is the idea that for half a second two perfect strangers share a mutual space on earth and acknowledge one another one way or another. It's a memory I love and will keep for ever. Of course these folks see people on trains every day so I am not so sure the connection is the same for them! The pics only tell 1/4 of the story, the trip on the train was pure joy, magic and great fun. The food and entertainment were both fantastic as well.

Tambopata Reserve

teresa421 — Sun, 13 May 2007 14:31:00 GMT

WE woke to the sound of someone walking on the wooden plank floor and gently whispering, Charlie, Charlie it´´s time to go. It was 4:30 a.m. and we were heading out early to go see parrots and Macaws at the claylick.We were on the trail by 4:45 am headed through the thick mud clay of the trail towards the blind. All we could hear was the sound of birds (muck muck) and the clay as we slugged through it. THe sound was that of someone popping their bubble gum! As we approachd the blind, Gilbert told us all that when in the forest and this close to the clay lick we must be silent and move as little as possible. We entered the grass hut that consisted of walls made of long palms or grass with holes cut into the sides for viewing the birds without them viewing us. We heard little once we entered and so used the time to get settled and wait. Gilbert tells us softly that the birds are so smart that we must be careful to move very little and be silent. After about 20 minutes we began to hear the call of parrots and macaws as they flew into the trees above us. They were staging for their daily routine at the clay lick. There are several theories, none fully corroborated, as to why the parrots eat the clay. One theory holds that the clay and contents thereof assists the birds in digesting the toxins they ingest when eating fruits of the forest. This particular clay lick attracts predominantly parrots and macaws whereas others attract solely parakeets. This is attributed to the varying chemical makeup of the clay lick.

We could barely contain our excitement as we witnessed some of the parrots moving in to the trees within our view. We were beyond our limit when two Macaws actually came into view. Gradually, the parrots began to fly to and land on the clay and began to eat the clay. <<<there were many parrots and only a couple of macaws. WE stayed and watched until our guide told us we must return for breakfast. <He did not believe the <Macaws would attempt to eat the clay this early, but he did promise to return to the claylick following breakfast.

Lake Titicaca

teresa421 — Wed, 9 May 2007 12:14:00 GMT

We decided to connect with always travel once we were in Puno to see if they could help us set up a trip to lake titcaca and an overnights stay on one of the islands. We were successful in booking a trip and boarded a boat early in the morning for a tour of the Lake Titicaca region and people there. Our first stop was to one of the floating islands of ~~Sauasi.~~ The island we visited consisted of about 3 families that made a life their on their floating island. The people there spend time fishing *for food not fun and making weavings and trinkets for the many toursists that visit the island. Once we arrived our guide was careful to explain the way of life for the people there. There is a rumor that the people do not live there any more but rather go out to the island every day to greet the tourists. \It is not true but it's easy to see how such a rumor could thrive. the people live in grass/reed homes and weave the read to make a floating island.when we debarked the boat and stepped on the island we noted immediately how spongey the ground under foot was. we sat around in a circle ate some reed *tastes like chicken not, and listened as our guide described the subsistence of the people on the island. the people also make huge reed boats that are very sturdy and used to go out and fish with. I can only imagine that life on the island would be very complacent at times and at other times totally influenced by the over 6,000 tourists who go to visit.

from this island we went out further onto lake titacac to visit our famile. Our boat included about 25 people and the agency we worked with works to assure that all the families that are eligible not only benefit financially from our visit but also have an equal chance of having visitors to their home. Once we arrived on the island \*after 2 more hours on the water, we were met at the dock by the families with whom we would stay the night. There are about 4,000 familes that live on this island that is about 6 miles loong. Me MAH and louise were introduced to our family and walked together up the steep incline to their home and our resting place for the night. The walk is paved with stone the entire way and the island has a walk that covers the circumference of the island. The people here are Quechua and are very isolated fromt he rest of the world. They work hard and are in the process of harvesting the golden Barley that blanketed the fields we passed as we traversed the patheway forever upwards. Our family greeted us at their home and brought us into their kitchen for a lovely lunch of quinewa soup and an assortment of potatoes. THe starch provides energy. The family then took us up to a soccer field from which we continued to go upwards tot he highest point of the island to view the sunset. I opted to stay below and watch the life of the islanders as they harvested their crops by hand and loaded it up on their backs to take back home. Their are no vehicles on the island and in only saw a few modern conveniences, radio, a couple of bikes, and a couple of boats. there is not an electric other than what can be obatained through solar power and the families all wear traditional clothing much of the time./ THere are two schools on the island that the government contributes to assure the islanders are educated. \THe day fell into night and we went back to our new homes and enjoyed a wonderful typical quechean meal. As darkeness fell we were told in broken spanish that there was a dance for all of us to attend that night. We were totally surprised when joanna, our new sister, brought in several traditional dresses for us to wear to the dance. we had fun changing into the traditional clothing and trying to figure out what tied to what! OUr sister joanne got a great kick out of it too. We proceeded to the community hall where the high school quechan band played music under the glow of the solar lit hall. There were about 50 of us there total and we danced in high altitude which in itself was breathtaking.

Arequipa and flight of the <Condor

teresa421 — Wed, 2 May 2007 02:37:00 GMT

arequipa a delightful city of about 1 million. we arrived on a sunday that was filled with many people enjoying sunday afternoon on a beautiful sunny fall day.MAH & I ventured out into the madness of horns honking smells of diesel fuel and crowds of people walking on the street to the plaza de armas. It´s been a challenge to use spanish again but I am pleased to meet up with so many patient peruvians who are anxious to communicate. The <plaza was bathed in afternoon sunlight casting shadows and illuminating the stone walls made from volcanic rock. we toured a church and were accosted by beggars in the street who were working the tourists. The Plaza was full of families and others enjoying a leisurely sunday afternoon. From there we went on to book a budget trip to the colca canyon that involved 4 hours each way on a bus. The trip promised a tour of many colonial villages a stop over in CHAVEY and a hope of viewing condors. Out guide Cecil, worked hard to translate both english and spanish and was a wealth of information. He shared info about the quechen way of life, agriculture in the area the spaniard colonization of the region and quite abit about the alpacas and vinques and llamas. We stayed over in chavey at the colca inn. elevation right at 12,000. I thought I could withstand the elevation but I became quite ill that night and skipped folkloric dancing and dinner. I was am to visit the natural thermal pools on the edge of town and treated myself to the healing mineral waters of the andes. <THe travel by bus was rough at first in that much of the scenery was what you might think the moon would look like but with lots of human litter. the people living there are very very poor and eeking out a living out of the desert and stone. amazing. As we climbed higher the air became thinner but the mountains and views and terraces astounding. THe terraces are actually a hold over from the incans. seeing the terraces helps one appreciate the fact that before the colonization of this country by the spanish the civilization here was not only thriving but doing so in a manner that was in harmony with nature.

The sights and sounds of peru are many. the people are gentle and genteel,simple yet proud and eager to please. THere seems to be a large gap between those who have and those who do not have. TO me those who are farming and working to produce meet and the fur products of the country are more connected with the earlier civilazations than those others that i have experienced. Given I have only been here two day s <I know my exposure to be extremely limited. I look forward to learning more from these people about what is important to them. ALL FOR NOW, OFF TO PUNO TOMORROW TO MEET UP WITH THE REST OF THE CREWW AND SING HAPPY bd TO ME.! TAKE CARE ONE AND ALL.tREE

lima

teresa421 — Sun, 29 Apr 2007 12:43:00 GMT

lima at 10.30 PM SAT NIGHT IS A HOPING PLACE! WE WERE GREETED BY THRONGS OF PEOPLE YELLING MANY THINGS <(WHO KONW WHAT) IN SPANISH. I THINK THEY WERE TRYING TO GET US TO RIDE WITH THEM. fORTUNATELY mah HAD PREARRANGED THE CAB AND WE WERE NOT HAVING TO FIGURE THAT MAD SCENE OUT!QUITE SHOCKING WHEN YOU COMPARE THAT SCENE TO THE BUCOLIC SCENE OF THE HOME AIRPORT!

oUR WEATHER TODAY IS OVERCAST AND I CAN´T TELL IF IT´S POLLUTION OR FOG. THE FORECAST CALL FOR BOTH. OUR PLAN TO DAY VENTURE OUT ON THE STREETS FOR A SHORT WHILE BEFORE GOING TO THE AIRPORT(AKA SCREAMING THONGS, AND CATCH OUR FLIGHT TO AREQUIPA. WE ARETOLD THIS CITY IS MUCH SMALLER AND VERY BEAUTIFUL. THE CITY IS IN THE CRADLE OF THE MONTAINS.Ç

OK WE ARE AT INKA LODGE NOW AND IT LOOKS LIKE A GREAT SET UP PEOPLE VERY ACCOMODATING FOR OUR SILLY TOURIST REQUESTS (TOWELS, WATER, ETC) AND THERE IS A LOVELY COURTYARD WITH A SMALL QUAINT BAT TO HAVE A PISC0 SOURNOT YET THOUGH AS IT IS ONLY 7:30 A.M. WE WILL MOST LIKELY STAY HERE ON OUR RETURN WITH THE HOPES OF STAYING LONGER ON OUR RETURN.

Notes from the field

teresa421 — Wed, 25 Apr 2007 13:22:00 GMT

The trip begins Saturday we will fly into Lima staying only the night and then on to Arequipa. The goal learn about and enjoy a different world. Compare my view of the world with that of others and learn how people live with chaos swirling around. The opportunity to travel is unique and an opportunity to learn about people and parts of the world otherwise not experienced;especially when one relies on the media or the tales of others to build their knowledge base. I will seek to listen, see and not judge.