Goodbye to McLeodganj
UNITED KINGDOM | Monday, 5 May 2008 | Views [75] | Comments [2]
The last couple of weeks have been fairly uneventful so I’m
afraid this entry is rather less exciting than previous ones, though mercifully
shorter…
Perhaps the most interesting news is that after we left
the march for McLeod, our fellow marchers remained in Delhi to await the arrival of the official
Olympic Torch on April 17. However, at least 16,000 police (mostly Indian but
some Chinese) were mobilized for the event, and my friends were arrested as a precautionary
measure and detained for 27 hours. I asked the marchers to email me updates and
quotes for the mag, and one American guy, Lex, sent me a hilarious account.
Apparently the westerners were among 58 being held at the jail, where they were
permitted to play badminton and get chai from the jail canteen, whilst the policemen
even brought them milk, chocolate and ciggies. However that evening a head
count was taken – only to discover that 11 had escaped during the day! At that
point, in Lex’s words: “They went from being lovable old uncles to ‘I’m going
to shoot you and take away your bathroom rights.’” One escapee even had the
nerve to return and visit her friends the next day!! The poor Tibetans were
given 14 day sentences, but most were released within three days.
Some rather sad news is that all westerners have been
kicked off the march. They have been permitted to march to Nainital in Uttar
Pradesh, which they should reach within the next couple of days, then it’s bye
bye. I must say I don’t think the organising committee has treated them
entirely fairly. During the build up there was a desperate recruitment drive
for both Tibetan and western supporters, and whilst for marchers such as myself,
who joined a bit at a time, it’s not the end of the world, some had planned to
march all the way to the Tibetan border. One guy flew from Canada to take part and film a documentary on
the march, with which he hoped to raise funds to sponsor a Tibetan student in Canada. The
problem, I think, is that the committee is comprised of five NGOs, all with
conflicting objectives, which was obviously a recipe for disaster and the thing
has been halted, chopped and changed so many times – you never know what’s
going to happen from hour to hour - never mind day to day.
Spent my first few days back in McLeod recovering from the
march and then got struck down with an intestinal parasite right on deadline for
Contact which wasn’t good. My little friend’s official name is Giardia,
although on my room mate Jenna’s advice I generally refer to him as Lloyd. It hasn’t
been much fun having him around; in fact he has laid me really quite low which
made getting the magazine out a real struggle. Had to literally do it an hour
at a time, whenever I was able, but had to get on with it as I’ve been writing
most of the thing as well as editing it, and there was nobody else to take
over. Add to that the frequent internet and computer problems you expect in India and you
have a challenging situation. Thankfully I finally finished it yesterday, so
can relax a bit and enjoy my last couple of days in McLeod. I’m rather proud
that my parasite is listed in Lonely Planet, and that I can now start ticking
off diseases as well as hotels and restaurants. I’ve also just bumped into an English
guy who has lived in India
for 20 years, and is consequently a walking encyclopedia of all things nasty,
who reassured me that I probably also have a form of dysentery. You can’t beat
traveling in this part of the world!
On a brighter note our friend count, which hit an all time
low a couple of weeks ago, has increased with some really cool people passing
through over the last week or so, some of whom I hope to catch up with in
Kathmandu.
So the time has almost come for me to leave this beautiful town.
In fact, were it not for Lloyd I would have taken off to Amritsar yesterday
where a 2.5 mile walk for Tibet, organised by the local Sikh community, took
place, culminating in a candle light vigil at the Golden Temple which would
have been amazing. Was disappointed I couldn’t go, as I’d planned to visit the
Punjab during these few days anyway so it would have worked out perfectly, but
if I have to be sick I’d rather be somewhere familiar where I have lovely friends
to look after me if necessary. But Lloyd being well I plan to embark on the three
day trip to Kathmandu (probably via Delhi)
in a couple of days time.
I’m certainly going to miss this place. It is so stunning.
Every day I’m woken by warm sunlight streaming through my window to the sight
of McLeod tumbling down the mountainside, snowy peaks, colourful prayer flags illuminated
by sunshine – and Jenna’s sacred hammock on our balcony. There is always so
much going on here and everyone you meet is lovely (I mean travelers and some
Tibetans. The Indian guys are quite frankly a pain in the arse) and the weather
is just perfect. It’s lightly cooler and far fresher than Delhi, but still well into the 80s (around 30
C) most days. Tomorrow I hope to take lots of photos (which I will upload I promise)
many of which are likely to feature Carpe Diem, a house of ill repute which has
been my home for the last four months.
Well think that’s about it. Told you it was a boring one. Speak
soon, Love Soph XXX
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