Brazil’s annual celebration of sun, skin and samba is a wild time for
travellers and locals alike. Around 700,000 tourists flock to Rio de Janeiro
every year to witness the outrageously elaborate floats parade around the Sambadrome,
while others head north to fully immerse themselves in the festival and
Afro-Brazilian culture.
No matter where you choose to go, this festival of flesh can be the
party of a lifetime for the careful traveler but if you want to survive the
week unscathed, it’s important to keep your wits about you.
With that in mind here are a few tips for keeping it together during
Carnival.
Where’s the Party?
Although celebrations are held all over the country during the week
leading up to Easter, specifically Ash Wednesday, Carnival comes in very different
forms across Brazil. The two most popular Carnival destinations for tourists
are Rio de Janeiro in the south and steamy Salvador in the north. For a more traditional
Carnival experience, many people also head to Recife and nearby Olinda.
Rio's Sambadrome
The action in Rio de Janeiro is concentrated at the giant Sambadrome
where 70,000 people cram in to watch the city’s top Samba schools step, sway and
wiggle their way around a 700m track.
This is where you get the typical
Carnival scenes of extravagant decorations and what can loosely be termed
“costumes”, despite a noticeable absence of any clothing. Tourists can either
watch the parade from stadium seating or pay extra to kit themselves out in a
costume and become a part of the show.
For those who can’t
afford or get their hands on tickets to the Sambadrome (which can cost up to
$750) there are also a plenty of free street parades throughout Rio, made up of
hundreds of blocos, or mobile sound
stages, followed by a mass of dancing fans. To experience some of the most famous blocos, head to Rio’s safer beachfront suburbs of Leblon, Ipanema
and Copacabana.
Outside Rio
Carnival in Salvador is a more inclusive affair, boasting a spicy Caribbean
flavor, although with less elaborate costumes. With over 2 million people
following floats through the city it is the world’s biggest street party,
according to the Guinness book of World Records.
(Important note: Normally Salvador, Brazil's 3rd largest city, is a less frenetic and somewhat safer place to celebrate carnival. But as the 2012 festival approaches (Feb 18 - 21) be aware that a strike by the city's police has seen violent crime rates soar. There were 78 murders in the first 5 days of the strike. There have also been highly increased levels of other crime. According to the Associated Press, there's been looting of shops and even a bank. AP says some pre-carnival concerts and events were cancelled on February 4th. If you are planning on going to Salvador keep up to date with news reports, check with your travel provider about conditions at your accommodation. About a third of the city's 30,000 police are on strike demanding a 50% pay rise. On Sunday 5th the Brazilian government deployed 2000 troops to the city, and they were successful in reducing the level of violence.)
(A couple of WorldNomads having fun in Salvador)
The two primary routes for blocos
are Circuito Barra-Ondina, which travels 4km between the beachfront suburbs of
Farol da Barra and Ondina, and Circuito Avenida, which winds through 6km of
streets in Salvador’s historic centre.
The latter travels through an area well known for beggars and
pickpockets, so make sure to be on your guard. If you’re looking for a slightly
more subdued experience or simply a change of pace, the Circuito Batatinha is
geared a little more toward family groups, but don’t expect a drop in volume.
Whichever area you
choose, you can either pay to watch the parade from exclusive clubs called camarotes along the route, dance
alongside a float in a roped-off, roaming bloco
, or brave the crowds and become what the locals call pipoca (popcorn),
bustling along the route for free.
Ticket Scam
If you want to splash out on a bloco
or camarote you’ll have to buy a
ticket in advance which, in Salvador, will come in the form of a t-shirt or abadá
and can be quite expensive. There is a black market in copied or
stolen abadás but you’re likely to hand over your cash only to find
yourself with an obvious forgery, a ticket to yesterday’s show or even
someone’s dirty laundry.
Official abadás will have the ticket’s date
embroidered into the shirt, along with the name of the bloco or camarote.
Although expensive, blocos
and camarotes are a great way to feel like part of the parade in a safe
environment. Camarotes provide a great view from above the action and
usually include drinks and food while blocos can have up to 600 staff
holding barrier ropes and watching over their patrons’ security and wellbeing.
Partygoers & Perverts
The sheer scale of Carnival festivities means whether you’re watching
the parades from afar or plunging into the thick of it, you’ll spend a large
part of your time squashed cheek to cheek with friends and strangers alike. It may seem chaotic, but there is a
certain sense of order to the madness and it’s important to remember this if
you want to keep in sync with the rhythm of Carnival.
Although the street parades move very slowly, the constant surge of
people can make it difficult to keep track of friends or family. Make sure you
organize meeting spots along your chosen route before going out.
Some men use the crowds and debaucherous atmosphere of Carnival as
an excuse to become sexually aggressive. Women travelers are advised not to walk alone and should avoid wearing
skirts.
Street vendors line the parade paths, selling food and alcohol. The
prices will be much lower than in the private bars of blocos but if you do buy from a vendor, don’t accept opened cans and
make sure they pour any caipirinhas
in front of you.
A lack of public facilities and high consumption of alcohol mean
that many desperate partygoers end up using the street as a toilet, despite a
recent crackdown on public urination in Rio. Keep this in mind if you feel the
call of nature, or if you drop anything on the ground.
Police presence is very noticeable during carnival, with lines of
officers constantly weaving through the streets. Although they are willing and
ready to help if you are in distress, they are also dealing with huge numbers
of people and can be a little rough when forcing their way through the crowd.
Try to move aside if you find yourself in the path of a patrol, it will make
both your nights a little easier.
Sometimes the close quarters are too much for fragile tempers and
fights among partygoers are not uncommon. When this happens the real danger
lies in the rush of people trying to get away from the action. If you do find
yourself near a fight remember not to panic and don’t run, as you are more
likely to trip and fall. Walk quickly away and let the police deal with the
troublemakers.
When you get to the end of your bloco’s
route you may have to backtrack to get to your accommodation. Try to keep to
the sides of the street to avoid fighting the flow of the crowd, but always stick
to well populated areas. The
safest way to get home is by taxi, if you can find one nearby, however don’t be
tempted to wander off the beaten track.
Mototaxis are also a good way to travel but can be a little
scary in heavy traffic. Before you set off, try to get everyone in your group
on a bike, it’s safer than splitting up and, as always, agree on the fare in
advance.
Carnival Crime
Most people head to Carnival to have a good time but for some the
lure of thousands of tourists and the anonymity of the crowd are too much to
resist.
While Rio stepped up its crime-fighting and police programs after
being announced as the host of both the 2014 FIFA World Cup and 2016 Olympics, armed robberies and
assaults are still a major problem, especially in poorer areas.
In 2010 a Dutch
tourist was shot twice during the opening day of Carnival celebrations. He
thankfully survived the ordeal however it is important to note that the mugging
occurred while he and his wife were walking alone up to the famous Christ the
Redeemer statue, far from any official Carnival circuit and nearby to one of
Rio’s notorious favelas (slums). On a
similar note, the majority of reported muggings against tourists occur on the
way back to their accommodation, so make sure to walk with purpose and avoid
darkened, empty streets.
In the northern centres of Salvador and Recife violent crime is less
common, although petty crime is still rife.
While the bustle of bodies is a big part of the Carnival experience,
it also almost impossible to tell whether the hand on your hip belongs to a
well-meaning samba instructor or a probing pick-pocket. As usual avoid displays of wealth and,
if you can, leave the wallet at home.
Carry a photocopy of your passport and only enough cash to last you the
night. Keep it in a money belt, an inside pocket or tucked safely in your
shoe. After a night of partying
your reales might be slightly soggy, but at least they’ll still be in your hand
(or foot).
Keep a firm grip on your camera if you really want to capture the
action. Try not to flash your camera around and be careful even if you have the
strap around your neck or wrist. Many revelers have gone out with a camera and
come home with nothing but some frayed fabric.
Related Articles
Staying Safe in Rio
A Guide to Rio's Favelas
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