Rather than a place to avoid, the favelas are some of the
most vibrant parts of Rio de Janeiro, both in colour and culture. They are the
flipside of the city’s strange dichotomy. Exploring these communities is a
great way to dive beneath the flashy veneer of Ipanema Beach and appreciate the
depth of Rio’s charm.
Friendly Favela
Favelas are the bright patchwork of densely populated slum
districts that sprawl across Rio’s hillsides. Their prime locations afford some
of the city’s richest views to its poorest citizens. Often portrayed as hives
of violence and criminal activity, constantly warring for control of the drug
trade, the favelas and their residents are blamed for much of the city’s crime.
It is true that favelas can be horrifically violent places.
In October 2009 a police helicopter was shot down and 12 people, including two
police officers, were killed during a skirmish between two top drug factions. However,
outside of these infrequent clashes, the favelas are actually safer than many
parts of the city.
Locals say the same man who would mug you on Copacabana will
shake your hand with a smile in the favela. Aside from occasional raids the
police leave favelas alone, but they are far from lawless societies. Drug lords
enforce strict rules inside their territory and surrounding areas, discouraging
internal crime, especially against tourists (ask your guide about
“micro-ondas”).
This is done to avoid police attention and make sure rich
foreigners feel safe buying drugs in the district but there is also a sense of
benevolence towards the community – the vast majority of which has nothing to
do with the drug trade. Aside from the protection granted by this iron-fisted
approach, a portion of the huge drug profits is often funnelled back into
education programs and infrastructure – including maintenance of the crazy web
of illegally tapped power lines and TV cables.
(Spaghetti junction - perfectly safe, NOT)
Lost in the Maze
Although the idea of paying to tour a poor community might
feel uncomfortably exploitative, entering the favela alone isn’t recommended.
Although very safe, it is easy to lose yourself in the maze of tumbling streets
and alleys. A local guide will be able to point you towards the best places for
food and performance and can talk your way out of trouble if it arises. Plus, most
tour companies use some of their profits to run charitable programs in the
favela. The majority of hotels or hostels will be able to put you in contact
with a tour company, or if you’re lucky enough to have a local friend, they may
be able to show you around.
Don't Shoot!
Unlike most of Rio, you needn’t be too worried about
flashing expensive cameras around in the favela, although kids may mob you in
search of a photo. You do need to watch where you’re aiming the lens however.
Gun-toting teenagers might be a tempting photo op but they are unlikely to
appreciate the attention. It should be obvious, but your guide will let you
know when the lens cap really needs to go back on.
Mototaxi Madness
The quickest way to get around the steep and winding favela
streets is on the back of a mototaxi. At about two reais ($1.20) to go anywhere
inside the favela, it’s cheap too. But beware, these guys love to show off and
you’ll soon find yourself tearing through oncoming traffic. They’re competitive
as well so if you’re travelling in a group you’ll probably find yourself in a
race to your destination, whether you like it or not. Screaming or asking them
to slow down will likely see them grin and gun it, so our advice is to just
hold on tight and enjoy the ride.
Kids and Lookouts
Kids in the favela are as friendly and playful as anywhere
else in the city. Some will clamber for a photo; others invite you to kick a
football, some try to earn money by selling art and homemade jewellery. The
bands of kids giving percussion performances on plastic oil drums are a real
treat.
But you’ll also see a few sitting atop buildings, watching
intently. These are children who’ve been conscripted by the drug cartels as
lookouts. They’ll watch for rival gang members or police, revealing their
position using fireworks.
These large-scale raids are uncommon, police usually conduct
their operations outside busy tourist times and the tour companies will know if
trouble is expected. But if you do see or hear fireworks shooting up around the
favela it is time to make a hasty retreat.
Favela Parties
Many tour operators offer tickets to “Favela Parties”,
offering the chance to get amongst the real Rio youth and be introduced to favela
funk or funk carioca, Rio’s distinctive sound. Don’t expect anything wildly
different from other Brazilian nightlife, the majority take place in huge
buildings hardly different from a typical nightclub. You’re better off going to
a street party in Lapa if you want a unique experience.
Short skirts probably aren’t the best idea for these
parties. The dance floors are cramped and Brazilian guys tend to be quite
forward in their advances. If you’ve picked up some Portuguese, you might
realise a lot of funk carioca lyrics are sexually explicit and misogynistic and
some of the local dance moves match these attitudes. If someone tries on a move
you feel uncomfortable with, clearly let him or her know you’re not interested
or just walk away.
Drugs and Destruction
The hillside locations and slipshod construction of the
favelas means heavy rains thunder through channelled streets, break apart
hastily built houses, force their way into foundations and, as was the case in
January 2011 and April 2010, cause devastating collapses.
The Brazilian government has a history of ignoring the
rapid, uncontrolled growth of the favelas, despite the obvious danger of
cobbling houses together on a steep hillside.
Lack of government infrastructure also means the cramped
communities are often without proper sewers or drainage, which only exacerbates
the problems. In Brazil the floods were described as “more man-made than
natural” disasters for this very reason.
Government plans to build walls around many of the city’s
favelas, focused on the massive Rocinha, were claimed to be intended to protect
the environment and help prevent landslides. However many residents protested
this as a move to further social divides, stop favela expansion and fence in
the drug trade. The planned walls were eventually replaced with nature paths
and “eco-barriers”, with concrete walls only to be built in areas of high
landslide risk.
It is a complex social situation but for tourists the
conclusion is simple. If it has been raining consistently or if heavy rains are
forecast, stay out of the favelas.
Favelas and the Face of Rio
The upcoming 2014 FIFA World Cup and the 2016 Olympics in
Rio have spurred the police to try and break the drug syndicates’ hold on the
favelas, particularly those near tourist sites. This means an increase in
dangerous raids in some locations but in others they are trying a new tactic.
In 2008 the Rio government created established Pacifying
Police Units or UPPs. These units now move into the communities, establishing
protective outposts instead of trying to fight crime from the outside. Unlike
previously indiscriminate operations, the UPPs help sort the criminals from the
law-abiding residents, helping to build trust in the community and pacify the
favela, driving the cartels out.
In late November 2010 police forces managed to claim
Complexo do Alemao, one of the city’s biggest favelas, previously considered an
impregnable fortress for criminals. While this was a significant achievement,
it has yet to be seen whether this is the start of an unravelling of criminal
dominance of the favelas.
The army are patrolling the district to ease the load on the
police force. But despite government claims to have driven the gangs out of
Complexo do Alemao, many residents argue crims have simply holed up in their
houses. Others say they have been replaced by corrupt cops who wander through
homes, taking what they please as they search for gang members.
It remains to be seen what lasting effect these initiatives
will have on crime in the city and whether living conditions in the favelas
will improve.
Related Articles
Staying safe in Rio
Navigating the Amazon in Brazil
How to travel safely around Brazil
Tips for surviving carnival
About WorldNomads.com
WorldNomads.com keeps our members travelling safely by offering a range of travel services such as Travel Insurance to residents from over 140 countries, the latest travel safety advice, free travel blogs and language guides for your iPhone/ Ipods.
We also offer a range of exciting travel scholarships.
Whether you’re heading off for a long weekend, seeking the ultimate adventure or travelling around the world, we’re there with you, helping to keep you safe, covered and getting the most from your travel experience.
