Rio de Janeiro is a city defined by its division. The gaudy
wealth of Ipanema and Copacabana are juxtaposed with the crowded poverty of the
favelas. The landscape, squashing the city between the mountains and the surf,
only brings this into tighter focus, often resulting in the violent clashes and
crimes that have earned Rio a reputation as a dangerous city.
But contrasts and
close quarters also account for a lot of its charm. If you keep your wits about
you and keep yourself out of harm’s way, you should have a smooth ride through
Rio.
Doing the rounds in Rio
Christo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer), Rio’s iconic
sculpted overseer, is first on many tourists’ lists and after undergoing
maintenance in 2010, it’s even more impressive.
There are many ways to reach the top of the statue’s perch,
Corcovado Mountain. The easiest but most expensive is to an organised tour
group which will pick you up from your accommodation. These often include a
trip to Pão de Açucar or Sugar Loaf Mountain as well. They are convenient but
not the best idea if you plan to spend a while at either location.
The alternatives are taxi, tourist van or the funicular (cog
train), which can all be found at the train station on Rua Cosme Velho at the
base of the hill.
You may be able to negotiate a flat rate with a cab driver
but if you’re looking for a budget option, try to join up with a half-full van
that is about to set off. The driver will want to maximise his return on the
round trip and at that point, anything is a bonus.
If you want to take your time, the best bet is to take the
train up. It costs $R36 for a return trip, including the $R5 park entrance fee.
There is a walking trail but it will take around two hours to reach the top and
robberies are not uncommon along the track.
Sunset Scramble
Rio’s bizarre lumpy landscape means the city boasts one of
the world’s most incredible sunsets, a fact which isn’t lost on the locals.
During the summer crowds gather on Ipanema beach almost every evening to watch
the sun sink between the Dos Irmãos (Two Brothers) Mountains. You’ll often hear
applause over the surf as the last rays fade behind the horizon. But the best place to capture the daily spectacle is from
Sugar Loaf Mountain. A cable car ride to the top will give you an almost
unobscured 360-degree view of the city.
Unfortunately, as one of Rio’s most
popular tourist destinations, it’s not a very well kept secret. There are long
waits for the cable car in the early evening. The trip takes two legs as well,
stopping at the smaller Urca Hill on the way, so you’ll have to queue twice.
A
less manic way to handle it is to head up a little earlier to avoid the lines,
take in the daytime view and have a drink at the hilltop bar while you wait for
the sun to drop.
Like Corcovado, it is possible to walk up the back of Sugar
Loaf. The trail begins near the cable car station but is obscured by a cleverly
placed pillar. It’s quite a strenuous climb, however, and if you decide you
don’t want to repeat it on the way down you’ll be dismayed to find out you
can’t buy cable car tickets on the summit. Buy yourself a one-way ticket before
setting off, even if you’re planning to walk back down.
If you hang around for the last cable car down (generally
8.40pm but check signs) be aware that taxis may be in short supply by the time
you reach the bottom. Buses aren’t recommended after dark, especially if you
have to make a few changes or will be waiting at the bus stop for a while, so
maybe forsake the last few snaps to make sure you grab a cab.
Favelas Take the Rap
Rio has a network of favelas, or shantytowns, scattered
throughout the city. The residents of these impoverished areas are blamed for
much of the city’s crime. However, the majority of the favelas residents are
law-abiding citizens, with a few bad eggs giving the rest a bad name.
In fact,
the favelas themselves are quite safe. Iron-fisted drug lords prevent crime in
their territory and the surrounding districts, meaning a visit to these vibrant
communities should be a big to-do on your list.
For more on Rio’s favelas,
visit our dedicated guide.
Beaches in Rio
The beach is where Rio’s great division ends. People from
every end of the city are sprinkled over the sparkling white sand, tossed
together in the surf. Copacabana is the most renowned, but the local favourites
Ipanema and Leblon are growing in popularity among tourists. All are incredibly
crowded during high season but somehow there’s always space available,
whichever you choose.
(No polka dots on this itsy-bitsy teeny-weeny yellow bikini)
The crowds mean a lot of petty crime goes unnoticed, so keep
a watchful eye on your valuables. Most thefts on the beach will occur behind
your back or while you’re distracted but some are more brazen. Some travellers
report bands of children rushing onto the beach and grabbing everything they
can before disappearing into the streets, while jewellery and cameras have been
ripped off tourists in broad daylight as well.
But with so much on offer at the beach, there’s little need
to bring anything more than a towel and the smallest swimwear you can find. If
you chose to hire a chair and umbrella from one of the many stalls, they’ll
generally offer to bring drinks to you for the rest of the day, although you
may pay a slightly higher price.
If you’re out for a bargain, there’s a
plethora of hawkers wandering the beach, selling everything from sunglasses to
chicken hearts. If you felt so
inclined you could plant yourself in your seat and admire Brazil’s best bodies
from sunrise to sunset.
Chances are the heat will get to you at some stage however
and you’ll want to cool off in the water. If you’re in a group, have someone
stay and watch your valuables. Otherwise you can ask someone nearby to keep an
eye on them, the Cariocas (Rio’s residents) hate crime as much as you and will
be happy to oblige. One trick is to hook the straps of your bag around your
umbrella, preventing a quick swipe, although this is far from fool proof.
The water itself isn’t particularly clean, especially around
the channel at Leblon, so try to avoid swallowing any.
Be careful in the surf
as well. There are lifeguards on duty but the sheer mass of people in the water
means you could be drowning in plain sight and very few people would notice.
Signal Towers
Locals will tell you the numbered lifeguard towers (postos)
on Ipanema serve a secondary function as well, dividing the beach into
demographics.
The surfers congregate near Arpoador at Posto 7, the young and
the beautiful head to Posto 9, family groups dominate Posto 11 in Leblon, while
the area between Posto 8 and 9 is a famously gay-friendly zone. Each tower
seems to have its own reputation but in our experience, there is little obvious
difference between them.
Girls should note that although Brazilians are comfortable
with bikinis apparently crafted from dental floss, topless sunbathing is not
allowed.
The beaches are best avoided at night, with wandering
tourists a target for robberies. But if you do head down there beware of locals
offering you drugs. They are usually working in concert with a cop nearby to
extort a bribe from you.
Good Night Cinderella
The parade of flesh on Rio’s beaches might have you on the
prowl at night, but be careful if you suddenly come across an overly friendly
local. You may think you’ve found your own Girl (or boy) From Ipanema, only to
wake up hours later, the victim of a sleeping draft known as Boa Noite
Cinderela (Good Night Cinderella). It may sound like a fairy tale but there are
numerous reports of the knockout drug being used to rob unsuspecting victims.
It’s best to head out with a buddy so you can keep an eye on
each other. Never let your drink out of your sight and don’t accept drinks
bought by strangers.
In some cases the victims were even drugged in their hotel
rooms so don’t let your guard down once you get home.
If your newfound friend
seems overly interested in where you’re staying, they may be organising a buddy
to help clean out your belongings. Try not to be specific about your
accommodation, especially if it’s an expensive hotel, as this will make you a
more inviting target.
Getting around Rio
Walking around Rio’s main streets, especially near the
beaches, is perfectly safe during the day, despite the city’s reputation.
However, just because you’re in a wealthy or touristy neighbourhood doesn’t
mean you’re safe to wander at night. In fact, these areas are specifically
targeted by criminals.
The safest way to get from place to place in Rio is by
registered radio taxi. Ask someone at your accommodation to order one for you,
or duck into a nearby hotel if you’re out an about. The city’s yellow cabs are
a good option if you’re in a hurry and are a little cheaper as well. Try to
find a cab with a meter or prearrange a price before your trip. There’s no
shortage of cars so you can afford to be picky. Always check the cab’s front
window for a license sticker and take a note of the company’s name and number
on the side. Never get into an unlicensed cab.
Take care when paying your driver as well. One known scam
involves the driver quickly grabbing a $R50 note, deftly swapping it with a $R5
before accusing you of underpaying. Take care when you’re selecting your notes
and ask them to turn on the overhead light if it’s dark. If you’re sure you
paid the right amount, don’t let them intimidate you, although you don’t want
to push your luck too far.
Buses in Rio are cheap, frequent and quite safe during the
day. Because of the city’s long, skinny shape it’s difficult to go too far out
of your way, even if you jump on the wrong bus. Be very careful of pickpockets
however. One traveller had his wallet taken from a zipped-up pocket inside his
bag by a couple of girls working in concert.
Steer clear of buses at night,
especially if you have to change lines. Bus stops are a known target for
muggings.
(Take care in Rio at night)
Managing the worst case scenario
Despite all its charm, Rio’s reputation for crime is
well-deserved and no matter how careful you are to avoid it, there’s a chance
that you’ll end up having a bad experience. However there are several ways to
make sure one bad experience doesn’t ruin your trip.
Don’t make yourself a target. Rio’s dress code is very
casual so don’t overdo it. Shorts and thongs (both kinds) are the rule on the
street. Leave the iPod and any expensive jewellery at home.
Take a taxi, even for short trips, and stick to well lit
streets if you’re trying to find one.
If you’re in a crowded place, be aware of your belongings.
At the Lapa street parties or during Carnival, groups of
kids often swarm tourists. If this happens, keep your hands in your pockets or
hold your bag to your chest.
A dummy wallet with a few reais in it can make the thief
feel like they’ve snagged something while saving you the hassle of cancelling
cards.
This technique can also work if you’re unlucky enough to be
the victim of a mugging. Whatever you do, don’t struggle. Hand over your things
and try hard not to provoke your attackers. Losing your camera might be
upsetting, but losing a litre of blood will be far worse.
Related Articles
A guide to Rio's favelas
Tips for surviving carnival
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