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Travelling safely in Rio’s favelas

BRAZIL | Monday, 9 February 2009 | Views [2143]

"God made the world in six days, the seventh he devoted to Rio," or so say the Cariocas, residents of the beautiful city of Rio de Janiero, Brazil. Rio is a city of contrasts, from the white sandy beaches and hotels of Copacobana and Ipanema, to the 'favelas' or shantytowns, where the poorest residents live in the world's largest slum.

The people of Rio's favelas are largely friendly and proud people despite being some of the poorest in the city. Unable to find accommodation or pay rent, many have established homes on any available empty space, which in Rio usually means on the steep hills surrounding the city. Ironically, as described by Di Rosa in her story, Favelas - The Sad Story of Brasil, the best views of the city of Rio can be seen from the poorest houses. "The poorer you are, the highest on the hills you live, farther away from the city (and) the community".

More travellers now choose to visit favelas as part of their trip to try to immerse themselves in the gritty local culture. However, visiting a favela, particularly on your own, can be dangerous and travellers are advised never to enter a favela without a guide who is known and respected by the locals.

Many companies provide tours through favelas, which provide the safety of a group and a guide. Others, like G.A.P Adventures, provide the opportunity to volunteer with an approved charity and work with the residents of the favela to improve the lives of those living there.

G.A.P Adventures, Project Brasil program works with "Union of Women for the Betterment of Roupa Suja" (UMPMRS) which is a community run, non-governmental, not for profit organization in one of Rio’s poorest neighbourhoods, Roupa Suja. Volunteers get a hands-on experience, helping with the education, health and other community programs to improve the quality of life for the children and families.

Guidelines for Visiting a Favela

Jim Cane from Culture Xplorers offers the following tips for visiting a favela:

Photography: It is strongly advised not to photograph people on the street. Reactions could range from ambivalent to offended to much worse. If you don’t get explicit approval from your potential subject to take a picture, don’t. The easiest solution is to leave the camera at home.

Get a Local Guide: Only visit a favela with an experienced local guide like the Favela Tourism Workshop. Never walk through a favela alone or even with a Brazilian friend from elsewhere in the city.

Transport: For me, walking is the only way to visit. How else can you:

Visit the health clinic, as we did in August, where we met and spoke with the director about the issues she faces every day.
Look over the shoulders of retired men playing cards in the public areas.
Marvel at the dense tangle of telephone wires where many residents tap into the official lines.
Explore the steep, mazelike alleys and stairways.
See boys flying kites, formerly used to alert the drug lords of police activity (nowadays other signals are used for warnings).
Smell the fruits, meat, fish, and dozens of other foods that are bought and sold in the bustling markets and stalls.

Make a Lasting Impression:

Buy some local art.
Stop for a soda and a chat with the store owner and her customers.
Support a positive impact program such as the Favela Tourism Workshop or Project Brazil.