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24/07/2013 Silent Grove and Bell Gorge (Gibb River Road)

AUSTRALIA | Wednesday, 24 July 2013 | Views [1227]

At 7am I headed off along the 7km stunning gorge walk and spotted some fresh water crocs sunning themselves on the banks. Lots of friendly travellers in these parts. Met up with Leo and Jude again, (from Barradale Rest Area).    

Woke up early to amazing bird calls. Given that I am usually in bed by 8.30pm, getting up at 5.30am is not difficult. There was a camp ground discussion about snoring. I saw a bower bird nest right near my camp with the male with his bright coloured feathers on his head, spreading grey and white rocks around his nest trying to entice a female out of the tree.  Quite a performance! 
 
After the walk I checked my tyre pressures then headed off towards the Silent Grove camp near Bell Gorge to meet up with my new buddies Freda and Yvonne. Except for the bright yellow flowering kapok trees, there were 3 distinct changes in vegetation from boab trees to gums then a type of pine(?) and finally, cork screw palm. The road passed through the Napier range then the King Leopold Range which was spectacular with its stunning rock formations of orange and yellow hues. I stopped for lunch at the shady March Fly Rest Area (a free camp). Here I met Kaye and Ron from Penola in South Australia and 2 Kiwis who were good company. We had a discussion about bushfire strategy as there seemed to be some haze or smoke in the area. 
 
 
After lunch I headed off towards Silent Grove and Bell Gorge but there was a creek crossing on the way which I wasn't sure about so I waded through to see how deep it was (recommended practice), keeping an eye out for crocodiles. Another 4WD went passed who said I would be fine but I retreated to seek advice from Ron who I'd met earlier and who was camping at March Fly Glen. The bigger 4WDs have higher clearance. I left there with a stick showing 500mm and 600mm marks and we decided that if it was 500mm or less it would be ok for me to cross so back I went with my measuring stick and waded in again to measure. I saw something that looked like a small crocodile in the water while I waited to watch another 4WD go across. With their reassurance I finally made it through and continued onto Silent Grove, crossing another creek behind them, showered and cooked my dinner before it got dark at 5:30pm, with plans to visit Bell Gorge 10km further on, in the morning.  My tag along friends in the Subaru were nowhere to be seen.
 
I met some neighbours around the camp fire including Tom and his Polish family. He was living his dream of 20 years driving a 4WD in Oz and he had crossed the said river 5 times for photograph taking, totally excited by the whole thing! On my return to my campsite I discovered that the wildlife had stolen my only loaf of bread from a bag near the back of my car. Slept in my car bed. The rectangular mozzie net with eyelets all around which I bought in Perth for $15 was working beautifully, strung up with hat elastic and caribiners, and it meant I could sleep with the back door and windows open and the breeze blew through my 'bedroom'. Tonight I can hear the river flowing nearby and the wildlife in the nearby bush hoping for another loaf of bread. This is certainly a beautiful part of Australia and I have already begun my list for next time. 
 
The GRR is recommended for 4WD only and there are a range of rigs from 4WD plus camper trailer, tent, roof top tent, Britz type high top and pop up Land Cruisers with slide out stoves and sinks, utes with silver canopies on top with side opening hatches and awnings, and room for sleeping inside once unloaded or on top. There are some off road vans too. 

Tags: gibb river road, kimberley, western australia

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