Worth Missing Biscuits

Begin the Countdown

luckymedusa — Sat, 5 Jul 2008 15:17:00 GMT

Two days before I am going to fly back round to Chapel Hill, NC. I don't want to believe all of the things I have not done while I am here - We shall simply call it leaving something for next time. Which there must be at some point!

All of us here are experiencing a massive pressure from our final projects - including me. Tonight I am meeting up with a couchsurfer on Istiklal and hopefully interviewing some street musicians as well as a band or two if possible. If we are truly lucky we will run into a political band tonight...

Anyways I did conduct my first interview today, which went pretty perfectly. The person I spoke with was very informative and intriguing. Which is good considering I have about a day to get all my interviews wrapped up! We went to the recording studio and talked with the music we were discussing playing in the background.

What was especially awesome was the Kurdish music we listened to at the end - apparently a group had just come a few days ago to record from the way Southeast of Turkey - no jobs and little money - but somehow they made it here to this studio to record. The music was very good and the lyrics were interesting.

Hope all of y'all are doing well,

Smiles from the other side

Catch up...

luckymedusa — Tue, 1 Jul 2008 11:25:00 GMT

So I believe tis about time for some sort of update - Sorry - internet has been quite sporadic and ill timed...

Since Troy I have travelled to an intense variety of places,

Ephesus - lots of white columns and a pretty sweet coliseum -

Hieropolis! Pamukkale.- The pools are incredible, white and blue and clear they shimmer with reflections of a calcium Goliath created over centuries of deposits from the water. I felt as though I had landed on some other planet. Upon reaching the destination we swam in the calcium pools with ancient roman columns. It was odd to see the natural splendor of the geology in contrast to the dilapidated lovely town. Too many tourists coming had caused an environmental meltdown, so the giant tourism operation was shut down. The five star hotels moved away, and the calcium pools are regenerating.

Egirdir - Climbed most of a mountain

Konya - Creepy hotel with monsters - (I'm entirely serious) - Lovely people, mountain tea which is green and tasty, and whirling dervishes

Village - Amazing - entirely deserving of its own post/stories but suffice it to say it is one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen, with some of the most welcoming giving people you will ever meet. And the best food of all time.

Cappadocia- Oddly formed rock caves = peoples houses and climbing spaces. Interesting place, met a lovely French woman and Turkish man. Staying in cave rooms that dropped cave on you all the time - we all now understand why people left these abodes for houses. Damp, dirty, enclosed, unstable, dark places...

Ankara - Odd citadel walls made using stones/columns/anything made of solid rock. Dinner at an Ottoman house and interesting company/conversation. Visited Atatürk's mausoleum and the Museum of Anatolian civilizations.

TRAIN BACK TO ISTANBUL!

Yesterday

luckymedusa — Tue, 17 Jun 2008 21:54:00 GMT

Yesterday I climbed the walls of supposed TROY. Yes, you know, the one of infamy... It was pretty awesome, Turkey is so lovely about not worrying if people climb and touch its ruins... I like it - I don't know how good it is for the object being touched, but I mean they are already ruins right? And this may also say something about how Turkey doesn't focus so much on the ancient past that mark the beginnings of civilization... Tour of Troy = 1 hour, Tour of Gallipoli = 5 hours with a complementary Ataturk statue! I did get to see trenches and wade in the water at Gallipoli. After Troy we moved on to Pergamom. Where I got excited over being able to use my art history vocab from 10^th grade. But mostly today we rode in buses – I read “On the Road” and entertained flashbacks from last summer. It is late and for some reason I think we are all mostly arising early for adventures of various natures. So I’m going to go ahead and say good night to all y’all. Hope this post finds you well –

Zoe

(I thought I posted this last night... Turns out I just fell asleep)

Obsessively photographing graffiti offers lead...

luckymedusa — Thu, 12 Jun 2008 00:14:00 GMT

Dear all,

I wish I smelled of wood smoke instead of simply smoke. But this reek is definitively worth the experience of being in the bar when Turkey scored that second goal in the last minutes of the second half to bring the score against Switzerland to 2-1. Everyone leaped to their feet as though their ass were on fire cheering and chanting – clapping until a song emerged from the clamor. What the words were I do not know but I feel as though our whole group attempted to sing along or at least continued clapping enthusiastically. Then we rushed out to the streets to a stunningly quiet scene. At least it was calm until we were overrun by a crowd of fist waving and chanting Turks on Istiklal. Most of our group turned around and followed the rush to Taksim – where much “bunny-hop” action ensued as well as dancing in a circle kicking alternating feet. Some of the group stayed out, while I opted to return to the flat after one of the men, pink shirt (called so because introductions were quite lacking) told me I was beautiful… Besides I had some intriguing research to catch up on.

Actually, photographing all the graffiti around town finally paid off today. I had a photograph of a wall that said “Festus Okey Rest in Peace” underneath the image of a man from a solidly done stencil. Curiosity wrapped itself around me and I Googled the name and found that the man was a Nigerian soccer player who had been shot and killed by the Turkish police while under arrest at the Beyoğlu police department in 2007. He did have cocaine on him (though as I am reading through many variations of the account this police station has apparently been known to threaten to plant drugs…and plant drugs on people) and purportedly Festus was shot when he attempted to grab the officer’s gun. There is no footage of this scene… Police cameras are not useful in interrogation rooms? Nah... Protests ensued from various parties and the officer in question was prosecuted… haven’t been able to find out whether or not he was sentenced as yet. I intend to follow up on this lead, as well as to see what other choice tidbits I can scrounge up about the Turkish police force, prison, and human rights issues relating to this aspect of Turkish life… Though it is not my final project (I don’t believe) I am still very intrigued.

Meanwhile I visited my Boot man today- and typically I was welcomed back into his shop and courtyard, ushered to a seat and offered tea. People here always seem to create time for conversation. He let me look at a lot of fabrics. I am seriously in adoration of all of the materials; in my head I spin designs for dresses and wall hangings and boot designs different from the ones he shows. I love being in the shop – I kept asking questions about the boots and he joked that I want to learn his job – I earnestly replied that I do… He creates something beautiful and gives it to the world and lives this way. It seems a pretty magnificent life really – he travels for business all over to surrounding countries. Unfortunately I had a 3:30 meeting with the Prof, and had to cut the conversation off.

I left Beyazit around 3:30… as I was supposed to be at Profs then, twas not good. But I did bring cookies as a gift for Prof – I like the Turkish way of giving whatever you have to others – no expectations. Seriously, in kindergarten all Turks mastered sharing… Really though, there is a mentality of taking care of people here as though they were one’s own family or friends even when one has just met. It’s like intense Southern Hospitality, and hey look – we have tea, they have tea. So basically I just came home to the other side of the world. The question becomes now, where exactly did this kind of cultural generosity originate? And the Turkish concept of time, gloriously slow and late – what more could anyone ask for? Things don’t open till 9 or ten in the morning and they stay open till 10-12 at night. They leave room for sitting and talking here.

A quick overview of the rest of the day...

Turkish lesson - dinner - watching the game at a bar - flat

where I realized it was time for more food and had...

Burned toast… Its really just dark brown… Crispy adds flavor?

And now this... sorry I will attempt an intense catch up blog shortly -hope you are well!

Wait, wait, wait, you're from North Carolina? and other misadventures...

luckymedusa — Wed, 4 Jun 2008 22:59:00 GMT

Today I finally explored a bit around the street on which I live. I found a lovely antique book store to which I plan to return. I also discovered, in the Columbus sense of the word, a vintage store. I proceeded to thrift in Istanbul with all appropriate glee. I bought an Ottoman coin with a hole in it as well as a Russian coin with an image of Lenin on it… And a few other items. I also ran into some people there that just graduated from UNC- and a graduate who lives here with his wife now. Three people total from UNC or North Carolina.

- Visited Dolmabahce Palace - OK, rococo and baroque styles were horrid in France and they are just as bad in Turkiye. A gilded world, I saw putti. Not pleased. Apparently this palace cost 35 tons of gold, the name means filled garden because the land it rests upon was once a bay in the Bosphorus Strait– and in all fairness it is an impressive sight…

- Visited the Military Museum- Fascinating place, saw a performance by imitators of the military band, called Mehter troop. Viewed many swords, rifles and a full scale model with a backdrop and sound effects of battle of Mehmet the Conqueror’s capture of Constantinople. Also viewed an intriguingly official rendition of events from the Armenian conflict… To say the least – there will be photos of this exhibit up shortly.

- Then I ran into someone that I had met at Cup of Joe. On Istiklal in Turkiye. This man had also seen me at the peace protest... He was with a friend who is thinking about graduate school at UNC. The world is shrinking faster than your jeans in the dryer.

- Sat across from/at a table filled with Turkish people, French people, a Hungarian person, an American and a German. To name a few nationalities that were involved.

- Raised a toast to Obama on a sidestreet with Efes

- Realized Istanbul really is the center of the world.

Protest for Peace and a sugar box

luckymedusa — Sun, 1 Jun 2008 23:16:00 GMT

A quick overview of the past few days for all ye that be interested -

-Went to a Protest and took photographs which many of you will see shortly - (Police had enclosed the general protest area with fences, they checked people and bags upon entry) For all the incredible number of police, lurking armed guards, and helicopters, the Turkish government did allow the protest to occur... - more on this later.

-Visited a few very old Byzantine churches

-Was asked by the guard at one of these churches, "You are so sweet, did you spend last night in a sugar box?" oh goodness.

-Took a short cruise with my sister

-Petted several cats...

-Read and took notes and drew

Mostly what I have been doing is sitting and having tea and talking with people. There have been many interesting encounters and at some point I will write down what I have learned and heard. I am looking forward to returning to visit the friends I’ve made. Probably toting a notebook, ready to get names and stories. I don’t know what I will be doing my final project on, though oddly enough I would really like to research a certain type of boot that is made here... And I met a man that makes them! We will see where that goes.

On the strange appearance of my sister in Istanbul

luckymedusa — Fri, 30 May 2008 00:01:00 GMT

Today we woke up quite early to go to a University and meet the students there. It was a lovely boat and bus ride over. I enjoyed meeting the students, though the encounter was rather brief as I had to return to pick up my sister. Of course, as I was sitting and waiting, I met a young Turkish man. We chatted in broken English/Turkish, or as we have dubbed it, Tenglish. I was glad of the company while I waited - I have to wonder if Turkish men stop and talk to all girls or just the ones that look like foreigners... My sister finally appeared and we returned to the flat - later we explored Istiklal, got dondurma - ice cream, and then walked to Galata Bridge. From there we went up to Topkapi - the gardens - and went by Yeni Jami. There was also an adventure into a carpet shop - of course - which was fun. Later this evening we all went out for hookah and then I returned to read for class! Finally I learn in depth about Ataturk - I've had a yen for such knowledge - especially with his image haunting this city! His face in one form or another peers down at me wherever I go...

On the dangers of smiling on Istanbul streets :-)

luckymedusa — Wed, 28 May 2008 22:12:00 GMT

Today we visited an art museum where we saw some stunning calligraphy, sweet textiles and beautiful doors. We also had our first official Turkish lesson, which was fun, but I wish I knew more…After lessons I split off from everyone and went to the gardens. The light was too good to go home. After a stint of viewing uniformed guys and girls hand and hand, (the gardens are a prime couple real estate) and an elderly couple that made me smile. I thought, we have drive ins, or make out points, they have palace gardens... something seems off here! Anyways, I drew and wrote until I started missing the thrum of the city. I made my way out, and down toward Galata bridge. On the way I saw an artists studio, with signs that said, “free, come in!” (how could I resist) So in I went and saw the work which was STUNNING. There were several images of women (mostly faces), sufi dervishes, and a lot of more contemporary work. I can’t describe it aptly. I was thrilled at having met a contemporary artist – whom I might be able to interview or work with – and was smiling when I left. I do not know if I have warned you of the dangers of smiling on Istanbul streets. But if you want to be assaulted with invitations to tea, this is a very good way to go about gathering such offers. So I again found myself in the bottom of a carpet store, chatting away with a man about our various life stories. Twas a good time, and I saw same fabulous boots. He told me they were hand made in Bursa! They had bright colors, star patterns, flower patterns, and swirls on black and brown backgrounds- at one point in the conversation I looked at him out of the corner of my eyes, "Kac lira?" (how much?) "270 lira." he answered, and I said, "I thought as much." Then he continued, "But they are good for you, candy for your eyes at least." Which was true enough. Apparently they also have a store in New York. I like it there, it is right by the artist's gallery so I shall return and have tea again. :-P But all is well, I went on my way, again smiling, and was winked at then stopped by the sketchiest person yet who almost had me come sign some sort of guest book(?) But I managed to avoid that and finally wipe the joyous grin off my face. Though another person did stop me to get me to come to their restaurant, shocking i know. Then I made my way down to Galata Bridge. I crossed the bridge right after sunset- I watched the lights of the city flicker on, and then proceeded up the lovely hill and stairs to my room - Yay bed!

Just what happened.

luckymedusa — Wed, 28 May 2008 08:38:00 GMT

Just a quick overview of the day- I got up late, we had class in the boys room. We watched a video on railroads and their affect on the Ottoman empire. We had some discussion afterwards, which for me only got really interesting when the conversation turned to contemporary politics. And when the man and his wife talked about the issue of headscarves in life and at the University. Then we had more class, mini break and dinner at the Teacher’s place. So good, burritos! Thank you William! And there was amazing cake and fruit too. So much food! Then catch phrase and ridiculous amounts of laughter, jokes and abbrevs. Hammams and all. Then back to home, chill around, talk to DAVID on skype - apparently my input works, which is very good. I started studying Turkish out of the book for the 1st time, until I passed out.

Bir Afiyet Olsun?

luckymedusa — Tue, 27 May 2008 08:24:00 GMT

Yesterday I went on a night walk- down the Galata bridge to Yeni Jami, or Yeni mosque, one of my favorite places. I enjoyed being there- apparently it was the mosques birthday (?) I think, I don’t really read Turkish, or speak it. But there was a big lit up sign that said 555 on it and was hanging between the minarets, so that could be an indicator of something… It’s a little overwhelming, like drowning to imagine all the history one stone in this place encases. I truly wish I could speak Turkish, I want to be able to have conversations with people in Turkish, to comprehend the glimpses of conversations that I hear. It makes me long for a Spanish speaker, or even an Italian/ Lingala speaking person... I guess I shall just have to study the language and pick it up as much as I can... Let me tell you a short story... On three different occasions I have been going to this one little shop for food and ordering an Afiyet Olsun. It seems to be a cheesy pastry like object that is vegetarian and quite scrumptious. I was always regaled with skeptical looks and completed my order with much pointing and saying cheese. I simply thought my Turkish pronunciation was off, as usual. Well, when the group and I were sitting outside this place last night, someone asked me what I usually ordered there. And when I replied with this he said, Really? Is that what you have been asking? And I pointed to the area of the window that right underneath my food which had Afiyet Ulson clearly written on it. Then I realized that this phrase was repeated all across the bottom of the window... When my friend finally paused in his laughter he told me that in Turkish Afiyet Olsun means, Bon Apetit.