Going Nowhere Slowly

I’m writing this while sitting on the back of a closed white bakkie . As I peer outside, I notice the cliff-hugging route that curves for kilometres ahead. After some raucous bumps, the bakkie takes a sharp left turn and the jarring gravel merges to leathery tar. The sign ahead reads MPUMALANGA. Two kilometres further and the sign boards read THE PROVINCE OF THE RISING SUN.
The bakkie coasts for hours through the monotonous national route which feels rather lonely with the exception of dust plumes for company. Suddenly, there is a dip in the temperature and the bakkie slows down as we descend upon a mountain. Not far off, human life makes an appearance. There are make-shift shacks loosely scattered on the roadside. The bakkie halts at the robot and young boys rush over to the windows holding up mobile phone charges, key rings and sunglasses. The bakkie driver shakes his head and prompts us to wind-up the windows and lock our doors.
A roundabout leads us to our destination, the Kruger National Park Resort.
Mpumalanga forms the basis of South Africa’s tourism industry. The province is crammed with historical and mythical figures. Tucked in Mpumalanga’s hills, lies the infamous Kruger National Park, this is said to be the size of Israel. While there are other nature reserves and trails surrounding the Kruger, there is also a gold mine. It is in this very region that spewed the “gold rush frenzy”. In 1873, alluvial gold was discovered and mined which led to the development of Pilgrim’s Rest. But there is more, the first rock paintings by the native San Koi tribe were discovered in the reserves that lie on the eastern side of the region. Of course, no trip to Mpumalanga is complete without looking through God’s Window.
It is midday and the sun seems to be pouring its heat on us. As our bush ranger wipes his brow, he tells us that the animals will be cowering in the shade so look up for the cheetah and be observant near rocks for a pride of lions. As we exit the driveway, we see a massive voluptuous Rhino cross the road with her young trailing. Not far off, vultures guard the sky and our bush ranger announces a kill has been made. Using the scavengers as a GPS navigator, we locate the crime scene of a springbok carcass. The vehicle silently manoeuvres around the tree and it is here that we gatecrash a lion and lioness’ buffet. That is a grotesque beautiful sight to behold.