Days 59 & 60 - Otavalo Markets

ECUADOR | Sunday, 18 March 2007 | Views [2419]

Otavalo is a town about 2 hours north of Quito, a must see in all the guidebooks. So on the weekend, my Aussie mate Linda and I packed a small bag and headed for the hills to see what it was all about.

The Otavaleños (people that live in Otavalo) have long been renouned for their weaving skills amongst their Ecuadorian amgios. Over the last decade, they have become the most successful indigenous market providers in the whole of South America, hosting the largest community market on the continent each Saturday. Via their trade Otavaleños have become the most prosperous and possibly the most famous indigenous group in Latin America. In the past ten years, Otavaleños have begun globe-trotting in a successful campaign to export Andean culture -- and earning big bucks along the way. At the market I think I saw more new 4WD´s than at a camping ground in Oz!

Because of their economic success, Otavaleños have managed to hold on to centuries-old traditions without adopting a 'quick get dressed, here come the tourists' cultural identity. They are proud people and it shows. While other indigenous people here (under pressure to assimilate) are wearing Levis and t-shirts, Otavaleños are still easily identified by their distinctive dress: the women wear amazing gold beads (rows and rows) around their neck & long ponytail woven with material. They all wear puffy sleeved lacey shirts that are hand embroidered and choose between a long black wrap around shirt or a shorter skirt thats kind of a long version of what you would wear to a netball or hockey game!

The Otavaleño men wear their hair in long plaits down their back, with fedors hats and white shirts & pants that are 3/4 length. Its so strange to walk down the street and see a boyfriend and girlfriend combination - she in traditional dress and he in Quicksilver gear and diesel jeans!!! What a contradiction!

Their market is centered around 'Poncho Plaza'. All day long, the whir of fairy floss machines, Andean pipe music, and Quichua (the native tongue derived from the Incan language) drifts across the square. A blinding maze of colored textiles spills from the square out across town, so the market area is hard to miss! 

As we strolled the streets we saw everything from jumpers to armadillo shell guitars, wall hangings to ceramic fried eggs. Up the way, vendors share the street with geese, puppies, pigeons and cuyes (guinea pig --a popular local food which I have tried in Quito, I probably wont eat again!). Further on we saw stalls pedalling snakeskins, herbal remedies, and bars of magical soap used to ward off jealousy in love!!! Yikes.

A few blocks north, the streets are overtaken by stalks of ripening bananas and pyramids of citrus fruit. WOW!

We had a great time wandering the streets, and managed to find a few bargains along the way. I have trouble bargainning with the stall holders though - as its all handmade and I feel greedy asking for an extra 20cents or dollar off the price!

Just as Otavalo is famous for its textiles, many of the nearby villages and towns are famous for their own particular crafts. On Sunday, Linda and I caught a bus to Cotacachi, the center of Ecuador's leather industry, where polished calf skins perfume the air. Its leather heaven there! Shop after shop of bags, shoes, belts, scarves, hats and yes - even leather g-strings people! I didnt buy anything though......

After a great weekend, Linda and I travelled wearily back to good old Quito and were met by rain and cold! Gotta love this place.....

Anyone for a wall hanging? Otavalo has it all...

Tags: Shopping

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