My Travels

Itacaré

justin — Fri, 24 Apr 2009 22:14:00 GMT

To get to the beaches one has to walk from the centre along the cobbled street for about half a mile. The beaches are fantastic, white sand meeting lush tropical forest. Warm waters with excellent surf...Together with clear blue skies and sun...it´s paradise.

Visited the first three beaches here;

Praia do Rosende... The beach is in a protected area, where construction is not allowed.
Praia da Tiririca is the place for the surfers to go. It has some of the best waves in Brazil apparently.
And Praia da Costa....very basic and deserted.

Itacaré!!!

justin — Thu, 23 Apr 2009 21:59:00 GMT

We´d booked a taxi to the port, well not quite a taxi, but a local guy with a wheelbarrow to take the bags. I was in the company of Ron, and now Eyal and Yaron from Israel. The girls who we had rrived with have now gone their separate ways.

It was a swift speed boat ride from Morro De São Paulo to Valencia located on the mainland. From here a minibus took us southwards to Itacare. The roads soon turned to muddy dirt tracks as we drive through the jungle (Not too dissimilar to Asia)

Once at Itacare, checked into the Hostel International. (After the driver took us to another Pousada....probably his brother´s)

Itacaré is famous for it´s beautiful beaches, tropical forest, rivers, waterfalls, good waves for surfing, capoeira, and laid back life style.
Later headed to a few bars, including a beach bar where many locals were dancing Forro(pronounced Foho)..Baraka Bar in the main street had a great band playing and the place was packed. I think I´m going to like this place!!!

Morro de São Paulo

justin — Wed, 22 Apr 2009 21:51:00 GMT

Spent the next few days on the beautiful island of Morro de São Paulo . Mostly on the beach, exploring the island, drinking caiprinhias, eating Moqueca, and frequenting the parties that were held every night

18 April......Went to an excellent club near the fort. Danced 'til the early hours. Despite the rain, and being out in the open air the partying never stopped.

19 April..... Went for a walk with Vyninka (Australian Olympic diver) and her father Bruce. Followed the beach round to Gamboa. Stopped for a body scrub in the local mud slide along the way! Really beautiful area away from the main centre of morro

20 April.....Beach, Morquca. Alcoholic Fruit Cocktails, Party.

21 April....Moved to a different hostel. The toilet situation in the previous one was becoming unbearable. Checked into The Black and White Hostel. Thought I was in Tel Aviv! The hostel was very much a focal point for those Israelies travelling after Military Service. A great hostel.

Went for a walk along the other beaches with Ron. Ron´s good company but sometime in situations like these I would have prefered the opposite sex!

That evening, Some of the guys at the hostel made a vast amount of cha. We'd all (75 people) previously chipped in 2 reals 75 pence. It was a great night. The drinks never stopped flowing.

22 April....Rained all day. Stayed in and watched dvd´s.

23 April....The weather had really turned for the worse. Grabbed a little sun in between the showers...and..what a suprise another beach party.

The island of Morro de São Paulo

justin — Fri, 17 Apr 2009 04:58:00 GMT

The now five of us (Paula from the hostel in Rio joined us) left Salvador for Morro de São Paulo. Morro de São Paulo is one of 5 villages of the island Tinharé, 60km from Salvador by sea. Cars are forbidden on the island.

The boat trip should have taken 2 1/2 hours but instead took nearly 5. On account of engine failure. I´ve been in this situation before!!!....(Whakatane, New Zealand). The sea was really rough too. Amazingly I was ok, whilst many other passengers were being sick. I had taken a pill beforehand but normally they have no effect on me. Maybe I have overcome my seasickness.

Got to the island in the dark only to find there was no accommodation available. I had thought being low season there would no problem finding anywhere to stay. I hadn't realised that the locals had a 4 day holiday and clearly Morro was a favourite destination. Hunted around and found a place for the five of us. Put it this way it's all about location and beach two is renowned for being the best. The fact the toilet in the dorm was only screened from the room by an obscure glass shower panel was a minor issue. The morning´s ablutions would be interesting.

Dance club and another mugger

justin — Thu, 16 Apr 2009 04:34:00 GMT

We spent the day down at the beach at Praia Do Porto. A really nice little beach near the old port. Again trying to avoid being sold anything. Except for Acai and grilled goats cheese.

In the evening a few of us from the hostel went to a Forró (I think that´s what is was) dance club in the Santo Antonio district. The club was in a basement and was packed. The locals dancing skills were amazing. Felt a bit left out not being able to dance but did my best..briefly.

I later walked Emma (one of the girls from the hostel) back, since I didn't consider it safe for her to walk back alone. I later returned to the club with Ron, only to be accosted on the way by a brick wielding mugger. No knives this time. Not sure how he was going to overcome the two of us, but he never had the chance. Ron rushed him, grabbed his arm and threw him against a car. Picking up the brick as we left, we continued the walk to the club.

An interesting evening.

Capoeira in Salvador

justin — Wed, 15 Apr 2009 04:22:00 GMT

Took in the local sights during the day. This place is full of people trying to sell you stuff to the point of annoyance!

In the evening went to a Capoeira show at a nearby theatre. Not the sort of thing I'd normally go for, but it was amazing. Basically Capoeira is an Afro-Brazilian art form that involves movements from martial arts and dance. It was created in Brazil by the slaves brought from Africa. Participants form a circle, and take turns either playing musical instruments or ritually sparring in pairs in the center of the circle. The sparring is marked by fluid acrobatic play and extensive use of sweeps and kicks. I´d seen this at home on Brighton seafront and wondered what it was!!!

Later had some food and drinks in one of the many cobbled streets listening to live music, and trying to avoid the numerous street vendors and beggars.

Salvador de Bahia

justin — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 04:06:00 GMT

Spent a couple more days dodging the rain in Rio before I headed North to Salvador. It was cheaper to fly with the low cost airline Webjet than it was to get the bus.

I was now in the company of Ron from Israel, Cassie and Danielle both from Melbourne. I'd arranged for a taxi to pick us from the airport and take us to the hostel. Given the fact that Salvador is as bad if not worse than Rio for crime, it was a new city, we'd be arriving late (even later then scheduled as the plane was delayed) and given my recent ordeal it seemed like a good option. Besides, I later found out that a bus on it's way to Salvador from Rio was 'held up' and all the passenger's belonging stolen!

Salvador de Bahia to give it it's proper name, is known as the African soul of Brazil. Here African descendants preserve their culture in music, dance and martial arts.

Checked into Hostel Galeria 13, a small yet cool hostel run by an English guy. It´s located in Pelourinho (The historical centre), an area renowned for its Portuguese colonial architecture with historical monuments dating from the 17th through the 19th centuries and has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO

Robbed at knife point..probably some little s**ts from the favela!!!

justin — Sun, 12 Apr 2009 01:03:00 GMT

Not a great day for the beach so went to the local market in Ipanema with some others from the hostel. Interesting stuff.

In the evening I popped out from the hostel with Tania to grab a quick bite to eat. On our return we were jumped by 5 knife wielding youths only metres from the hostel. Just before it happened we'd noticed that something wasn't right but by then it was too late. Tania was frisked by one, only for him to get a couple of Reals. Luckily she had the rest hidden elsewhere. Me on the other hand had the other 4 pointing knives at me demanding 'money money'. I was rendered helpless, as when I reached into my pockets to give them money, I had knifes thrust at me. So I just raised my arms, and thought 'take what you want'.

They went through my pockets but they couldn't find any money as it was hidden in a cigarette box. This made them even more angry, as hey, I'm a gringo, of course I have money. With them still demanding 'money money', I indicated that it was in the box. Then they were gone. It was at this point I mentioned 'card' and they threw back my cash card. Which most considerate of them I thought. The stupid thing is I never take out my card apart from a quick dash to the ATM. 35 Reals (10 pounds) down and extremely shaken, we just couldn't believe what had happened. The feeling was almost dreamlike; not a good one at that! The most incredible thing is that no one came up to us afterwards, and there were a few people around. That's Rio!

A stiff drink was needed. Several to be precise. Went down to the local bar 'Emporium' with a few people from the hostel.

Probably involved the beach at some point.

justin — Sat, 11 Apr 2009 00:57:00 GMT

Cant remember what I did but it probably involved the beach at some point. Later watched City of God...this was based in a favela and indeed most of the young actors were teenagers living in the favelas at the time. Since the film's success these actors have become a lot more famous and wealthy. According to the guide we had on our Favela Tour the young actors have put a lot back into the favelas and many stories he told reflected the loyalty that people brought up in these areas felt towards each other.

A really good watch

Rio Scenarium...9th best bar in the world....according to the Guardian

justin — Fri, 10 Apr 2009 00:37:00 GMT

Not sure what I did during the day but a large group of us went to the Lapa district and to the Rio Scenarium this evening.

Rio Scenarium, is a club, a restaurant, and an antiques warehouse covering three floors. The place was amazing, vibrant, and home to some amazing Brazilian music. There were two main areas for dancing and live music....no techno here!!!!!

The decor was incredible, Grand Pianos, beautiful art work, sumptuous classic furniture...I wandered how long it would remain in situ if back at home.

Anyway we all had a great night, taking it all in and dancing until the early hours.....my opinion of Rio has definitely changed over the last few days...you just need to know where to look.

Favela Tour

justin — Wed, 8 Apr 2009 23:36:00 GMT

A few people had recommended a tour of a Flavela and being a bit of an old cynic, I´d put off until now. I just saw it as a voyeuristic tour looking at those less fortunate. With an open mind and interested about different aspects of Brazilian society, I booked myself on Marcelo Armstrong´s Favela tour (suggested as one of the best).

There are close to 750 favelas in Rio. Mostly placed on former public areas on the hillsides. We visited just a couple, namely Vila Canoas and Rocinha, the largest one in the country.

On first impressions it wasn´t as bad as I thought. There has been alot of money spent over the years and the Favelas are now equipped with proper sanitation and waste disposal, and unlike how they used to be all the paths and roads are now concreted. It is hard to imagine what they would have been like with mud running down the hillsides into the Favelas every time there was a rain storm, not to mention the open sewers. But now life here is alot better, I was surprised how many of the homes have satellite TV. There are even Internet cafes here and there.

At the Vila Canoas Favella, we visited "Para Ti" community school financed by the tour. Besides regular classes, the school teaches local kids initial computer skills and the art of making handcrafts. The school has been a great success as previously only about 20% of children from the favela had grades good enough to continue to Secondary school whereas now it is nearly 90% who continue with their schooling. Recently a few students have achieved university places which are a wonderful testament to this family's work. So I am glad that the money I have spent on the tour is going to a good cause.

The buildings here were so close together that they were almost touching. There were tiny alleyways between the houses that were like a maze. I imagine, it is not actually not a bad place to live depsite the stigma. There seemed to be a good community feel as we were led through the passageways. The other interesting thing is the social divide, on one side of the road there was the Flavela and on the other, lovely privately owned houses.

To get to the Rocinha Flavela (Brasil´s biggest) we drove up the Estrada da Gavea which was a F1 race track in its former life. It must have been a bit like Monaco as the road twisted through the previously forested areas. The guide explained a bit of how the favela worked. I mentioned in a previous blog entry that there had been a shooting between two rival Flavelas, Rocinha is one of them. I saw several guys with large semi-automatic machine guns.....just in case there was a revenge attack. All scary stuff!!!!

We were not allowed to take pictures in the centre....so fearing that I may have my head blown off (joke) I kept my camera in my pocket. Again with the exception of the druglords carrying heavy guns the place seemed to function just like another town. With a few differences....

The rubbish is just dumped in a big pile at the bottom and the council pick it up, no wheelie bins here
Water and electricity is 'stolen' as the wires and pipes are connected to the city's water and electricity by residents of the favelas. the wiring reminded me of Asia....a bird´s nest of cables.
They do not have permission to build and there are no regulations covering the buildings which grow up.

All in all a interesting tour, for me personally it gave a good insight in to how the Flavelas work..it was definetly not a voyestic tour of the less fortunate.

Life´s a beach!!!!

justin — Tue, 7 Apr 2009 17:26:00 GMT

7th Beach, Volleyball, Football....Viva La Vida Loca

8th March Ditto. Beach, Volleyball. etc ....

Sampled the night life at Melt, a local night club. Went with Eric, a really interesting guy from the States who had been raised in Hippy commune, Katrina from Norway with great organisational skills, and James UK, with a humour dryer than mine!

There was a great Brazilian band playing and the club was heaving. Partied all night. The problem not with having a watch is I never know when it's time to go (no change there). . . left the club in the blazing morning sun. A nice feeling walking along the beach as everyone took their early morning run.

It´s a hard life!!

justin — Sun, 5 Apr 2009 17:35:00 GMT

Spent most of the day down at Ipanema Beach with Asif, Paula, Tania and Indi all from London. All the beaches in Rio are divided into numbered sections, near the hostel is Number 9 where all the beautiful people hang out. . . literally. It's true about the bikinis! Met up with some locals and Mexicans and played volleyball and football. . First time I'd played Volleyball since Asia!

`Tall and tanned and young and lonely....The girl from Ipanema goes walking`

justin — Sat, 4 Apr 2009 17:19:00 GMT

Checked into the Mango Tree Hostel in Ipanema. Another great recommendation from my personal travel advisor back home, Andy Peck. I wasn't long before I'd met up with a bunch of fellow travellers including Robbie and Carol who I'd met some weeks previously in Patagonia.

A large group of us (James and Corinna, a crazy Belgium and his Dutch girlfriend, and Asif, London) went to eat at an "Eat As Much As You Like" Brazilian BBQ/restaurant, where I ate so much I had roll out. After a relatively solitary day the people at The Mango Tree soon changed that.

After a few drinks at Shenanigan´s Irish Bar (ok not very Brazilian I know) I was off to Zero-Zero with Line and Malene (Norway), Holly (Barnes, London) and some Israeli guys. A good night although no one knew that Sunday night was gay night.

Time to say farewell.

justin — Fri, 3 Apr 2009 17:11:00 GMT

After a month of travelling together Clare had to return back to the UK today. Similar to before, a sad goodbye as she dissapeared through departures to board the plane back to Heathrow. After sharing so many experiences, the feeling of being on my own set in again, as it has so many times before. I returned to large hotel quite and made the most of the cable TV.

More Sightseeing in Rio

justin — Thu, 2 Apr 2009 16:59:00 GMT

Fortunately a good day to see Christo Redentor situated atop the Corcovado Mountain. The statue is a new edition to the New Seven Wonders of the World. Built in 1931 it stands approximately 38 metres high. We took the venicular train up the mountain rather than do the walk. Money well spent.

Once at the top, the place was mobbed with tourists as one would expect. Apart from standing at the base of Rio's most famous landmarks, the view was amazing. From here, geographically, Rio does look stunning. . . . socially and economically, a different story entirely. The vista gave a great views of Copacabana, Leblon and other various districts that make up the city. And of course the flavelas with their haphazard buildings clinging to the hills.

To get an alternative view of the city, went to Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf Mountain). A couple of swift couple car rides took us up to the viewing area of another famous Rio landmark. Again, another great view of Rio.

Sightseeing in Rio

justin — Wed, 1 Apr 2009 16:51:00 GMT

Just to get things straight Barry Manilow sang about the Copacabana night club in New York not the area in Rio.

The Sun was out in Rio so headed out to explore the beaches. They were amazing, White sand that stretches over 4 kilometres. Although one thing did bother me....where are all the Chicas....it could have been Worthing beach!!! Also, I was surprised by the fact the whole length of the beaches were lined by hotel, not a fish and chip shop or amusement arcade anyway; Cut through to Ipanema where the vibe was totally different to that of Copacabana mainly because it is the more affluent area of Rio.

Caught a taxi to one of Rio´s famous landmarks, Big Jesus also known as the statue of Christ the Redeemer ('Cristo Redentor') atop the Corcovado mountain, now named one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. By the time we got there the clouds had come down making the view over the city impossible, so we decided to do it another day. Later travelled across the city to the Centro area....a bit of a disappointment. It wasn´t the most attractive area and we struggled to find anything of interest, with the exception of the Cathedral (Seen one you´ve seen them all).

So far disappointed by a city that nearly everyone raves on about.

Rio de Janeiro.

justin — Tue, 31 Mar 2009 16:26:00 GMT

Our host at the Pousada in Paraty had sufficiently terrified us with stories of recent shootings and stabbings to make us feel at total ease for our stay in Rio. Apparently there was a shooting between two rival favela druglords only a few days before. Nice!!!!

Anyway our first taste of Rio was that our bags had been opened en-route. Luckily my dirty laundry was the first thing the would-be thieves would have come across......it must have scared them off!!!

Got to Rio Bus Terminal late evening in the middle of a rain storm. It wasn´t the best place to be in the dark, so to be on the safe side got a cab to the Best Western hotel at Copacabana. The area of Copacabana at night wasn´t great and not wanting to stray far in a strange area renowned for being unsafe at night, decided not venture out.

Paraty, Brasil

justin — Mon, 30 Mar 2009 16:10:00 GMT

Spent a few more days in Paraty dodging the rain and looking around the town. Visited the old fort... Forte Defensor built in 1703 and complete with the original six cannons .

Failed to mention that some of Paraty was flooded during our stay particularly nearer the sea end. Once a month when there is a Full Moon and the tide is high, seawater rises from its normal levels, and pours into the Historic Center District through special openings in the seawalls that separate the city from the harbor. The streets are only flooded for a short time, until the tide recedes.

Paraty, Brasil

justin — Sat, 28 Mar 2009 21:09:00 GMT

Had one the best breakfasts I've had since I've been in South America. In addition to the mandatory ham and cheese the owners even had home made peanut butter. Not many home comforts I miss but Sun Pat is one of them!

Clare and I took the advice of the owner and headed up into the hills to find some waterfalls. After a short walk in the tropical heat we found the falls. Not really much of waterfall just a little random recreational area with slides and a pool with water from the natural stream.

Later went into the town. The small coastal village of Paraty is a virtual museum within a tropical paradise. It is located 125 miles southeast of Rio and possesses one of the finest examples of classical 18th century Portuguese colonial buildings. All the streets are cobbled..big cobbles too. Quite difficult to walk down the street in flip flops after the rain showers!

There are no cars allowed in the main centre which adds to the charm. It was a shame that it was raining on and off for most of the day.

Sampled the Brazilian dish Moqueca (associated more with the Bahia state), basically fish stewed with green peppers, tomatoes and coconut milk, spiced with dende oil (palm oil). Plenty more to come me thinks.

Travel day to paraty via Sao Paulo

justin — Thu, 26 Mar 2009 19:58:00 GMT

26 March: Travel day to Paraty via Sao Paulo

27th March Arrived in early hours at Sao Paulo bus terminal and caught a transfer to Paraty. The journey seemed to take ages but provided stunning scenery as the bus meandered it's way along the Atlantic coastline.

Arrived in Paraty only to discover that our bags had been tampered with. Fortunately my system of dirty underwear at the top of my bag seemed to deter the would be thieves. Clare got away with only a torch being taken. A nice little welcome to Brazil.

The bus terminal is not the kind of place you want to hang around in the dark, and unfortunately the taxis know it. It was an expensive ride and there was no negotiation. Pay the 20 reals or walk! We'd heard that there has even been threats from the taxi drivers towards the hostel owners picking up their guests. As they see it as lost business.

Once at the hostel in the Praia do Jabaquara area of Paraty we were welcomed by the crazy English owner. Spent the rest of evening at a beach bar overlooking the sea.

Foz de Iguaçu

justin — Wed, 25 Mar 2009 19:49:00 GMT

Made the trip to view the waterfalls from the Brazilian side. The lovely people at Los Troncos had sorted a driver to pick Clare and I up and take us over the Argentinian/Brazilian border (which we could see from the guest house).

From the Brazilian side there was an amazing view of the falls. Although not being able to see as many falls as from the Argentinian side it was still a most spectacular sight, seeing and hearing the millions of gallons of water crashing over the 80m drop. As there was not as many viewing areas we didn't need that long and spent the rest of day relaxing back at the guest house.

Iguazú Argentinian Side.

justin — Tue, 24 Mar 2009 17:18:00 GMT

Not sure how to describe it except absolutely amazing ...just look at the pictures! Numerous gigantic waterfalls crashing down....the sound was incredible.

The park home to the falls was very well thought out making access to the various viewing stations very simple. The only thing I would say was that I would hate to be there it peak season.

The waterfall system consists of 275 falls along 2.7 kilometers (1.67 miles) of the Iguazu River; The most incredible was the Devil´s Throat were the water crashes down from three sides.

´Oh I was only 22 hours from Salta´..........

justin — Sun, 22 Mar 2009 17:10:00 GMT

22nd March - sightseeing Spent the day having a look around Salta

23rd March - ´Oh I was only 22 hours from Salta´.... or is Tulsa. . . Either way, a bloody long journey to the Iguazu Waterfalls

Spent the day and night on a bus. (Just for a change) It was the only bus company that goes from Salta to Iguazu. And FlechaBus new it. Probably the worst journey yet. It was really filthy, the tv sound was bad, and we had two annoying people behind us from a country I don't care to mention anymore.

Salt flats and the most annoying person I've ever met.

justin — Fri, 20 Mar 2009 17:01:00 GMT

We were picked up from Pumamarca and continued our excursion this time with an American girl for company, in addition to a different tour guide.

It hadn't taken long before the American girl Kim I think her name was, really began to annoy me. The combination of origin, spending too long in London, and self opinionated was all too much. Too the point she couldn't understand my subtle comments that we really didn't give two shits about what she had to say.

Anyway, the salt flats were absolutely amazing. The vastness was unlike nothing else I've seen. What was even more incredible was how the mountains and sky reflected on the thin layer of water on some of the flats. The image was so clear it was like a mirror.

Jumped back in the car and headed back via part of Ruta 40 (the same road I travelled on in the Southern part of Argentina). We were travelling through no mans land, just empty desert. Suddenly there was a large bang on the underside of the car, followed by the strong smell of petrol. A large rock had been thrown upwards puncturing the petrol tank. It wasn't looking good. In the middle of nowhere, with nothing for miles and petrol gushing from the tank. Anyway, Clare and Kim wouldnt get back in the car even though we could have made it with petrol that was left. So we decide that we'd start walking the next 6km in the blistering heat whilst the tour guide took his car and got someone to pick us up.

The American girl couldn't deal with the situation at all. Here's why,

1 More concerned that her trip would be delayed.
2 There was no roadside assistance
3 She'd hadn't eaten for a while. And even when some tourists travelling in opposite direction stopped and gave her food, she was disgusted by the virtue it was too sweet! OMG I don't believe it!!!

Finally got to the next town where Kim managed to annoy the tour guide, the restaurant owner, and a couple of English guys; one of which had altitude sickness. Clare and I were trying to help get the guy get back to Salta. Basically she would have rather let him die if it meant disrupting the trip anymore.

Got a lift from a local to take us back to Salta. Needless to say the rest of trip was quiet. Thank god. The scenery was amazing though.

The funniest thing was that she thanked us for sharing the day with her. .....Wish I could have said the same

Pumamarca, Tilcara, Humahuaca former homes of the Inca´s

justin — Thu, 19 Mar 2009 16:55:00 GMT

Got picked up early (again) for yet another excursion. This one, included an overnight stay in a mountain village called Pumamarca, renowned for it's 7 coloured mountain which overlooks it.

Also, visited Tilcara, which is the location of Inca settlement. Much of the area had been restored so it gave a good idea of how view once lived.

Next stop Humahuaca. Had lima for lunch, which was actually really tasty. Can't really remember what was so significant about Humahuaca but it was a charming little place.

Stayed overnight in Pumamarca in lovely little hostel just off the main square.

Cafayate Wine Tasting and sightseeing

justin — Wed, 18 Mar 2009 16:51:00 GMT

We'd booked a tour to Cafayate. (Basically me, Clare, one other and a driver). The drive took us through yet more stunning scenery and geological wonders. We stopped occasionally to take in the sights and take some pictures. Cafayate is a small town famous some of Argentina's best vineyards and renowned for it's Torrontes wine.

We visited and sampled the organic wine at Bodega Nanni and the more traditional produce at Vasija Secreta. Got two bottles from the former. Lovely!

Also indulged in some Torrentes wine sorbet. An interesting combination.

17/18 March - Salta

justin — Tue, 17 Mar 2009 16:46:00 GMT

17th March - over night bus from San Juan to Salta

18th March - Salta

Out of all the towns in the north of Argentina I've been to, Salta is by far the most attractive. It's surrounded by mountains and the architecture is what I would have expected in Argentina, with many European influenced buildings. A refreshing change from San Juan and Mendoza.

We took a trip on a cable car upto the viewpoint which had a great view over the city. Being surrounded by mountains Salta is prone to changeable weather. Which it did.

Stayed in a lovely hostel called Blemis

Parque Provincial Ischigualasto (Valle De La Luna)

justin — Sun, 15 Mar 2009 16:37:00 GMT

We had previously arranged a tour to the Parque Provincial Ischigualasto, which is a desert valley a few hours north of San Juan. Once at the park, the scenery was incredible, from wind eroded rock formations to strange ancient river beds. This area is famous for it's wealth of dinosaur bones and fossils, some up to 180 million years old. The colours in the landscape were amazing, the exposure of the various minerals in the rocks had turned them red, green, and yellow Having a slight interest in Geology I found it fascinating. Needless to say, being a desert the temperature was incredibly hot.

On the way back we stopped in a town where historically a women had died in the desert yet her new born child survived by continuing to breast feed on her. The locals here considered this a miracle and as a result, she's buried here and people from all over leave gifts where they have recieved good luck. It was a bit weird and comical at the same time as we looked at the various items, for example, models of peoples houses, crash helmets, crutches, wedding dresses. There was no end to what people would leave.

I,m 38 today!!!! San Juan.....has someone died!!!!!! Where´s everyone gone?

justin — Sat, 14 Mar 2009 23:28:00 GMT

Arrived in San Juan. OMG this place was dead. It was like the opening scene to '28 days later'. There was absolutely no one around. I´ve never experienced anything like it! Not the most liveliest place I've been to spend my birthday. Apparantly Sunday's here are renowned for being quiet as most people spend time with their families or leave the town. Nevertheless had a nice day.

12/13/14 March......Mendoza

justin — Fri, 13 Mar 2009 23:17:00 GMT

12th March travelled to Mendoza

13th March a day in Mendoza´s snake museum and Aquarium. . . It's as good as it gets.

14th March - Wine tasting in Maipu near Mendoza

Clare and I hired a couple of bicycles so we could visit the vineyards on the outskirts of Mendoza. To be honest it was nothing like those of France, Australia, South Africa, and many of the others I've been too. The area was very industrial with trucks rushing past as we peddled in between the winery's. To top it off we got lost and ended up in a dodgy area and then onto a motorway, and all in the blistering heat. If anyone's reading this and thinking of going to Maipu near Mendoza, don't! Save it for Cafayate. The wine in Mendoza was good though!!!

Although not thining much of the town, the hostel was great and met some great people. Excellent bar-b-que too!!! Chimbas I think the hostel was called.

I've been Tangoed!

justin — Tue, 10 Mar 2009 14:20:00 GMT

Spent a while soaking up the atmosphere in La Boca. This area of BA is famous for it's brightly coloured corrugated metal buildings. It's randomness is part of it's charm, together with the many craft shops and restaurants. Had lunch in Caminito, La Boca's famous street, where we were entertained by several of the many tango dancers.

Later met up with Mark and Amanda, (who i'd met in Pucon and Calafate), for a Parilla (open grill) dinner and a tango show. The tango show was excellent and could not resist, when one of the 'Chicas' asked me to dance! No strictly come dancing here!!

Sightseeing in Beunos Aries

justin — Mon, 9 Mar 2009 14:05:00 GMT

Did a walking tour of Central Buenos Aires. Sights include,

Palacio Del Congreso - Colossal parliament building topped with a huge dome. It was based on the Capital Building in Washington.
Plaza san Martin - A lovely park which at the time was home to huge painted bears, each one having been painted symbolising a different country.
Casa Rosada - The famous pink palace, where Juan and Eva Peron preached to the masses from the balcony.
Obelisco -The city's famous landmark rising 67m. Just another obelisk

Don´t Cry for me Argentina...How original

justin — Sun, 8 Mar 2009 13:53:00 GMT

Had another wander around Palermo Viejo where we were staying. This area is renowned for it's restaurants and boutiques, and it's lively nightlife which I'd sampled a few nights earlier.

There are many old buildings here which made it a nice little stroll.

Spent the rest of day wandering the sights of Buenos Aries including,

Jardin Japones - Nice

Walked alongside the widest one way street in the world (16 lanes) to Recoleta, and to one of Buenos Aries prime tourist attractions, Cementerio De La Reoleta. Here generations of Argentina's elite are laid to rest. There are many opulant crypts and statues. The more wealthy the more opulant. Many had glass doors and you could see the coffins inside. Some were very impressive, and some looked like entrances to nightclubs with their sparkly black marble. One even looked like an entrance to a 24Hr ATM lobby with its smoked brown glass door! I'm so going to hell for mocking the dead!

Saw the grave of the Peron family and of course Eva Peron (Evita), it wasn't difficult to realise as all the tourists were there armed with their cameras.

As I hadn't been to a cinema since leaving home Clare and I watched a movie in the neighbouring multiplex next door to the cemetary. An interesting contrast!

Clare arrives and football!

justin — Sat, 7 Mar 2009 13:43:00 GMT

Made it in good time to Beunos Aries airport to meet Clare who was flying in from Heathrow. It was lovely to see her after all this time as she walked through the arrivals gate.

Spent a little time exploring the Palermo area where we were before heading off to watch the football game between River Plate and Arsenal (not the London club).

Once in the River Plate Stadium the atmosphere was incredible, not suprising as it's one of the most famous teams in Argentina.

You can't help but stand with the fans and get into the spirit of it all. The grandstand behind the goal did not stop chanting and banging drums the whole time, even when the opposition scored the first goal. After a three red cards between the two teams, River Plate triumphantly walked off the pitch with a 3-1 victory.

Buenos Aires - Bumping into old friends.

justin — Fri, 6 Mar 2009 22:21:00 GMT

Had a wander around the area of San Telmo. I had just walked down a road off Florida Street (The main shopping street) and bumped into Eva and Pauline who I'd seen last in Laos some 4 months previously! Couldn't believe it. How bizarre is that! I knew they were here, but to meet them randomly in a city with a population of about 16million is incredible. Anyway, chatted over a few beers and caught up.

Went out in San Telmo that night with Paul. A great bar called Gibralter, very british with great music.

Buenos Aires!!!!!

justin — Thu, 5 Mar 2009 22:10:00 GMT

Paul (Fellow traveller from the hostel) and I said our farewells to the great staff and America Del Sur and got a flight to BA.

Checked into the America Del Sur in the San Tempo district of Buenos Aires. The hostel was more like a chic boutique style hotel...it was great. Newly opened too!

Later hit the bars at Plaza Serreno in the Palermo district. It was a fantastic place. The place was packed from the time we got there (midnight) until the time we left (5am). Met some locals (sophi x2 and nick), who then joined us for drinks. All in all a good introduction to the nightlife of Buenos Aires! I'm liking this place already.

El Calafate - On account of walking over 100km the days previously I did absolutely nothing

justin — Wed, 4 Mar 2009 22:05:00 GMT

My quest was complete!

justin — Tue, 3 Mar 2009 21:58:00 GMT

Up at 5.30 in order to get to the Mirador (viewpoint) for the sunrise. It was certainly a shock to the system getting up so early in the freezing cold, and it was another thing climbing up over the rocks in the pitch black. But the view was most definetly worth it. As the sun emerged from the horizon it illuminated the mountains turning them red and pink. It was a very beautiful yet serene moment as I sat on top a mountain with many others who had made the pilgrimage. Put a brew on using my camping stove and watched the run rise further in the company of couple of other backpackers. So that was it, my quest was complete. It was all downhill from here. Donned my pack once more and made a leisurely decent following the path of the Rio Ascencio, stopping occassionally to chat to some of the people I'd met over the last few weeks who'd made it down to the South. And Canadian Josh . . . It could well have been New Zealand!

From the last Refugio at the bottom of the trail I thought I'd walk the last 7.5 km back to the bus pick up. . . .I walked about 500m and thought 'sod this' I'll hitch. A couple of locals picked my up, who were most generous offering me wine, cigarettes, joints and coca (not the fizzy variety). As charitable as it was, I just settled for some wine.

Luckily I managed to get a lift back direct to Calafate, on a bus which I hadn't previously booked.

Torres del Paine. Day 3 - Nearly there

justin — Mon, 2 Mar 2009 21:51:00 GMT

A long long day. I probably hiked over 20km with a full laden backpack. Again the scenery was amazing. From clambering over rocks and boulders, crossing alpine streams, along shores of lakes, heathland with wild horses to hiking the most challenging uphill trail yet! Over an hour up, up, up and more up. My legs felt like they were going to spontaneously combust my muscles were burning so much.

Trekked this section with some guys I'd met on the circuit a day or so earlier, so it was nice to have some company.

Finally got to Campamento Torres with a little daylight left to erect my tent, and bed down in preparation for an early start the next day. At this height the temperature had dropped severely.

Torres del Paine. day 2

justin — Sun, 1 Mar 2009 21:35:00 GMT

Another late start.. . Must be something I ate!.....I'm thinking the dried milk I bought was formula!!! Didn't taste too bad actually.

Unlike the day before where I could leave my tent and equipment at the site, the next leg of the trail meant taking my stuff with me. It was a great walk, made only longer by me having to make several dashes into the trees. To be honest.....I've felt better!

I'd been walking for about two hours when I met Jaime and Carol (from Pucon and Bariloche). Spent a while with them having lunch by a mountain river. . . Perfect setting.

Walked up the Valley Frances. . the middle section of the 'W' trial. A challenging all uphill trial over boulders and through streams. The view from the top was amazing. The 360 degree panarama offered spectacular views down the valley to the lake, whilst the other way was a great view of Mt Los Cuernos and . . . would you believe it. . . another glacier.

Back tracked down the hill, picked up my gear and hiked for another 2 1/2 hours to the next camp. It was getting late and the daylight was running out. Luckily I made it the campsite with a few minutes to get my tent. That night the temperature dropped to zero. Luckily I had a decent sleeping bag but even still, it was freezing!

Torres Del Paine - day 1 montezuma Returns.

justin — Sat, 28 Feb 2009 16:52:00 GMT

Shit! Started my trek later than I´d hoped. Thought it best to hold back at the campsite for a while until I had the all clear. . . Not literally.

Anyway I set off somewhat nervously up the first leg of the trail. A beautiful walk following the edges of the Lago Grey. The end of the trail was rewarded with a stunning view of yet another glacier.

As I was late starting the trek many people had already made it back to the starting point, so I had the trial pretty much to myself on the way back. It was great, just me, my Ipod, and great views. . . Stopping occasionally to take it all in.

Torres Del Paine - well, getting there.

justin — Fri, 27 Feb 2009 16:47:00 GMT

After a 5.30am start (which turned out to be a 6.30am start!) I was off to Chile once more, this time to trek the Torres Del Paine.

It was a long day getting to the starting point of my trek. I'd tagged onto a day excursion which although very informative took ages to get to the destination. Not helped by the lengthy customs where they confiscated my salami! Bastards. . . It was the only decent bit of food I had! So with my hired camping equipment, I finally pitched my tent in the rain ready to start in earnest the next day.

El Calafate - Mereno Glacier

justin — Thu, 26 Feb 2009 16:41:00 GMT

Met up with Alex and Rhonda and got a taxi to view the Mereno Glacier in the Parque Nacional Los Glaciers.

A wonderful sight, seeing the 60metre towers of ice spread across the icy lake. Even more spectacular was when huge parts of the glaciers crashing into the waters below. The glacier is the only advancing glacier in the world whilst all the rest are recedeing. Although Al Gore did his facts a bit mixed up here!

Spent a while listening to the glacier crack and rumble and see more sections of ice plumbet into the water.

Spent the evening getting my stuff together for my 4 day trek in the Torres Del Paine. Whilst in El Calafate I've been staying at the America Del Sur. A fantastic hostel which I would recommend to anyone. Great place, great views and great staff.

Trekking on the Viedma Glacier

justin — Wed, 25 Feb 2009 17:01:00 GMT

Not having seen a glacier up close we (alex, rhonda and me) booked ourselves on day excursion to the Viedma glacier just 45 mins from El Chalten. It was great. After a short boat trip and a brief scramble over the terminal morraine, we donned our crampons and explored the glacier led by our tour guides. It was a great experience seeing the vast crevices, ice caves, and holes in the ice. The day was ended by having a Baileys with ice from the glacier.

El Chalten - Trekking

justin — Tue, 24 Feb 2009 14:28:00 GMT

Trekked up to the Glacier at Cerro Torre with Oscar, Rhonda and Alex (from the bus). The walk was fantastic with spectacular views of the Fitz Roy mountain and the Cerro Torre with it´s glacier sprawling in front of it into the lake below.

I should point out the next few days are made up of trekking in some of the most beautiful scenery in Patagonia. So if you are hoping to hear about me throwing myself out of, and from things then you probably won´t be interested.

I´ll spare the text but hopefully the pictures speak for themselves-

Ruta 40 - It´s a long way down!

justin — Mon, 23 Feb 2009 14:10:00 GMT

23rd Feb

Up early to catch the bus on the famous Ruta 40 to El Chalten. Ruta 40 is the longest road in Argentina running North to South some 3125 miles parallel with the Andes. Some of the road is unmade making it a slower journey than others. However, the scenery is stunning , although sometimes a little monotonous. For this leg of the journey it was a good 14 hours or more.
Slept for most of the journey, before taking an overnight stop in Perito Mereno.

24th Feb

Much of the same as the day before. More scenery rushing past, more Limas...broken up by pitstops in the back of beyond. Some of the places were like something out of a Spagetti Western...population 20 (and that includes the dogs!)

Finally got to El Chalten late evening.

Rock Climbing in Israeloche.

justin — Sat, 21 Feb 2009 13:58:00 GMT

Went up to Cerro Catedral, which is one of the biggest ski centres in South America. However, being summer the area is a haven for trekkers and mountain bike enthusiasts . I opted for neither and got the cable car up to the top for a great view over the mountains and the town below.

Whilst up at the top I noticed a few people rock climbing so being curious I wandered over to investigate and was given the opportunity to have a go. I haven´t rock climbed since 1985 when a youth club activities holiday.

After a little slip on the first two metres (bit embarrassing), I was up to about 30m. I really enjoyed it, and will no doubt give it a go somewhere else when I get the opportunity.

Spent the evening chatting to a large group of Israelis back at the hostel (Las Marias). Bariloche is a swamped with young Israelis travelling after their military service. According to one, they are thinking of naming the town Israeloche :-)

Bariloche....home of steak and chocolate……not necessarily together

justin — Fri, 20 Feb 2009 22:33:00 GMT

Spent most of the day absorbing the cultural side of the town…..eating, shopping and buying chocolate. Bariloche is the capital of chocolate in Argentina. The Chocolaterias all have their own appeal and stand out with their immaculately adorned shop windows and distinct colours…..each shop has it’s own colour. I bought some from the best chocolate shop in town, Mamuschka. The place is so popular that you have to take a ticket and your turn to place an order….a bit like the cheese counter at Tescos. I had eight pieces and ate them pretty much one after the other as they were so good….felt a bit sick after though

Met up with Jaime and Carol (who I met in Pucon, Chile) for dinner at El Boliche de Alberto…..the same place as I ate the night before. I had explained previously but it's a steakhouse in the truest sense of the word. Apparantly one of the best in Argentina. The menu consists of different kinds of cuts of meat….and all flame grilled. Tonight I opted for the Fat Boy 350g Bife de Lomo (fillet)…..Dr Atkins would have been proud…God Bless him. The place is inexpensive too, with fries, salad (just to be on the healthy side), and wine; the bill came to about £10 each. On the way home I opted out of getting more chocolate from one of the many late night Chocolaterias.

Bariloche - Mountain Biking

justin — Thu, 19 Feb 2009 14:28:00 GMT

To give you a brief rundown of Bariloche…it’s actually called San Carlos de Bariloche. and is famous for skiing but also known for sight-seeing, water sports, trekking and climbing. It is situated in the foothills of the Andes, surrounded by lakes (Nahuel Huapi, Gutiérrez Lake, Moreno Lake and Mascardi Lake) and mountains (Tronador, Cerro Catedral, Cerro López)…..thank you for Wikipedia!!!! Overall a lovely place with that off season ski town feel about it. It also is famous for its Chocolatiers…yum.

Myself and Curstan (who I met on the bus and in the same hostel) went off to explore the area. The first stop was Cerro Campanario 20km from the centre. There is a chair lift that climbs to the top of the peaks and looks out over the whole lake region. We had decided to not get the chair lift and walked…..in hindsight should have got the lift…my legs were still numb from the volcano trek a few days before. Apparently, the panorama is one of the most fascinating views of the region and according to National Geographic also one of the top views of the world. I don’t think I could argue with that…the view was amazing.

After Cerro Campanario, we picked up a couple mountain bikes and started the Circuito Chico, a loop of about a 20km round a peninsular in Lake Nahuel Huapi. (Marie from Manchester also joined us). The bike ride was really strenuous with lots of hills, but the views were fantastic. We stopped a few times to take in the breathtaking panorama, and occasionally going off the circuit to look at some of the coves on the lake.

On the last big hill, directly ahead there was an amazing view of the merging point of Lake Moreno and Lake Nahuel Huapi. The mountains in the background made an amazing backdrop.

In the evening went out for dinner….Argentinean Steak…it had to done. It was beautiful….not a huge fan of steak, but I think I may have now been converted.