Losing Our Way

Another world is not only possible, she is on her way. On a quiet day I can hear her breathing. --------------------------------------------------------- Arundhati Roy (Indian author, advocate, activist)

VOLUNTEER LADAKH: Learning from Ladakh Program, Homestay and Harvest Help (Ive)

There are [49] photos in this gallery.

I am welcomed to Ladakh by the Buddha -- whose image and presence is felt everywhere -- but nowhere more profoundly than in the kindness and equanimity of the Ladakhi people. Views[28] Ladakh is known as Little Tibet -- one example is the Palace in Leh, which is modeled after the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet. Views[22] Prayer flags offer blessings to the winds at the Namgyal Tsemo Gompa (monastary) high atop Leh. Views[22] Massive statues of the Buddha seem to attempt to demonstrate the enormity of his accomplishments. Views[20] The Shanti Stupa (a physical depiction of the teachings of the Buddha) in Leh, with the Himalaya offering protection. Views[22]
 
The skies and sun of Leh, at 11,000 feet plus, cause colors to burst forth. Here, some of the adornments of the Shanti Stupa. Views[20] Traditional butter lamps (now filled with corn oil -- modernity!) illuminate murals depicting the one who found luminosity. Views[20] Prayer flags flap near an old stupa on the edge of Leh. Views[20] Even at night, prayer wheels are spun by passers-by to send wishes of well-being out to the world. Views[15] The village of Likir, where I am living this month -- through irrigation of glacial waters, lush oases punctuate the otherwise desolate desert. Views[21]
 
The Gompa high in the valley above Likir -- it is very active with monks and frequent ceremonies. Views[21] A morning Puja (offering) ceremony at the Likir Gompa -- chanting, horns, drums, and cymbals call out to the universe! Views[20] A monk offers blessings by spinning the prayer wheel outside of Likir Gompa. Views[18] The entrance to the mesmerizing Avilokiteshvara shrine at the Likir Gompa. Views[23] My home in Likir -- built by hand by my Aba-le (host father) and his neighbors using techniques known to every Ladakhi. Whoever has called Ladakh the third world has no idea what they are talking about! Views[18]
 
My Ama-le (host mother) in traditional Ladakhi dress as we attend a festival in Likir. Views[21] One of the many glacial streams that support life in Likir. The irrigation patterns are changed almost daily -- rivers turn to dry walking paths and vice versa. Views[20] The fields of alfalfa and barley of Likir blow in the wind forming gorgeous patterns that seem drawn by a knowing universe. Views[21] The sometimes meditative -- sometimes earth connecting -- sometimes back breaking process of harvesting alfalfa with a hand sickle. Views[26] My Aba-le (host father) and I relax together during a tea break about nine hours into our day of harvesting alfalfa. Views[30]
 
My Ama-le (host mother) wraps bundles of newly harvested alfalfa to be dried on the roof of the house and fed to the animals during the long cold winter. Views[34] The end of the day of harvesting alfalfa -- all that was cut is wrapped into bundles and then carried on our backs to the roof of the house to be dried by the sun. Views[26] My favorite spot in Likir to stretch out with a book -- after a long (usually 14-hour!) day of harvesting. Views[13] A birds-eye view of my house in Likir -- it's the one almost hidden by trees -- and the beautiful fields that surround it. Views[17] A bunch of the volunteers set out on a three day trek from our hometown of Likir, to the villages of Yangtang, Ullay, and then Hemis Supkachang. The scenery was otherworldly! Views[18]
 
Our first day on the trek included passing a beautiful stupa. Views[17] Our trek takes us to the town of Yangtang. Views[19] Climbing from Yangtang to Ullay, we pass tent rocks carved from swirling Himalayan winds. Views[17] We make the climb from the town of Yangtang to reach the high-in-the-sky (over 15,000 feet) seven-house town of Ullay. Views[16] The view from the doorstep of the house we stayed at in Ullay. Ahhh, the Himalaya! Views[14]
 
It may look like a rowing machine, but Jessica is churning butter traditional Ladakhi style during our homestay in Ullay. Views[45] The lake we found above Ullay while trekking was honestly an Our gang of trekkers! Views[17] Alex -- one of the program coordinators -- poses with the family we stayed with in Ullay. Just the night before they were teaching us Ladakhi folk dances in their kitchen! Views[18] Reaching the top of the mountain pass between Ullay and Hemis Supkachang. This was just after we saw rare Snow Leopard prints!! Views[14]
 
In an amazingly auspicious coincidence, His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama came to Ladakh during my visit. I spent four days listening to his beautiful teachings -- which culminated with a renewal of my Bodhisattva Vow (vowing to aspire to put the well-being of others before your own, always). An amazing few days. Views[17] The cars are loaded to the brim and lined up bringing thousands of Ladakhis to hear the teachings of the Dalai Lama. Views[18] Thousands of Ladakhis, many monks, and a few tourists gather to hear the wisdom and compassion teachings of His Holiness, the Dalai Lama. Views[15] Devoted Ladakhi women as the Dalai Lama begins to talk. Views[17] A beautiful Ladakhi man emanates devotion as the people pray for the Dalai Lama's well being. Views[18]
 
...and the masses make their way from listening to His Holiness. Views[16] My Ama-le in front of her stove and the display of the family's pots going back generations -- the marks of the traditional Ladakhi kitchen Views[244] Every traditional Ladakhi home has a personal Buddhist temple -- this one is upstairs in the home I lived in. Views[10] Wontak -- the two-year-old who kept me laughing and on my toes all month long. Views[9] The Avilokiteshvara shrine of Likir Gompa -- his 11 heads and 1000 arms expressing what would be needed to provide the compassion needed in the world. Views[11]
 
A dzo -- a cross between a cow and a yak -- is the primary draft animal of the Ladakhis. Views[152] A yak -- I think their nostrils are bigger than my head! They are HUGE! Views[19] My Ama-le preparing traditional Ladakhi bread. Views[29] The Larjay family of Likir bids me farewell. Views[23]  

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