Losing Our Way

Another world is not only possible, she is on her way. On a quiet day I can hear her breathing. --------------------------------------------------------- Arundhati Roy (Indian author, advocate, activist)

KENYA: Rombo (Maasai Community)

Kenya | Friday, 24 July 2009 | 28 photos

Thanks to our friend Pam's previous visit, we were graciously invited to spend a week living with a young Maasai man, named Tumaina, and visiting with his community in Rombo, Kenya. The Maasai are a centuries-old tribe that is among the last in Africa to continue living as they did before colonialism and modernization. They are famous for being nomadic herders in what is now Tanzania and Kenya. Their spiritual beliefs forbid hunting, leading to an unparalleled protection of the wild animals of East Africa -- now taken advantage of to form National Parks like Serengeti and Masai-Mara. Maasai families traditionally live in a circular compound with several buildings, called a boma -- like the one pictured here. Views[27] Maasai women joyfully teach Mi a traditional dance with Mi and Ive hold bags for donkey transport at the Maasai museum being developed by our new friends to preserve their history. Views[36] Local Maasai proudly models ostrich-feather headpiece awarded to the bravest Moran (Moran is the Maasai term for young warriors). Views[26] The Rombo area is in the midst of a three-year drought that has devastated the community and its beloved animals. Views[30]
 
Maasai herd cattle, sheep and goats, often traveling long distances to find food for the animals. With no grass to graze from the current drought, goats here are fed by knocking seeds from a tree. Views[104] Cattle for sale at market: they are emaciated by the three-year drought and the unavailability of grass for grazing. Views[33] Herder, farmer, school chairman, community leader - he joyfully tours us around the bush that has nourished Maasai animals for centuries. Views[28] Sheep family planning - a simple plastic barrier. Views[32] Another generation raised on tradition welcomes us to their school with dance and chant. Views[31]
 
Maasai now approach a challenging precipice: between Tradition and Modernity. Here, a grandmother with no formal schooling visits her granddaughter's classroom at one of the first schools built in the area. Views[139] Western influences and pressures challenge Maasai to abandon clothing that has been a source of pride, distinguishing them from other tribes for centuries. Views[32] Western donations beginning to build a nearby school means preschoolers and first-graders avoid long and dangerous walks through the bush. Views[24] Students eager to impress us with their knowledge of Kenya's familial link with America's president. Views[21] Donations at another school fund a kitchen offering daily lunches. Local mothers rotate as cooks for extra income. Views[21]
 
After her visit to Maasailand revealed a basic need for water sources, our friend Pam raised funds for two new tanks to collect rainwater. This one serves a school and the neighboring community. Views[23] Ive helped mix the cement for a Japanese NGO-sponsored canal project to help irrigate Rombo's farms. Views[22] ...and Mi brings the water to mix. Cattle death is forcing Maasai to experiment with farming as a new livelihood, abandoning beliefs prohibiting digging in the sacred earth. Views[23] Due to rising need to supplement their families' incomes, women are now making and selling jewelry traditionally used only within the Maasai community. Views[21] In Maasailand as all over East Africa, portraits, posters, clothing and graffiti convey how inspired people are by President Obama. Here, our host Tumaina poses next to the portrait in his home. Views[26]
 
Here, preparing for our farewell gathering: A goat we offered for a feast is about to be slaughtered and prepared using traditions passed down by generations of elders. Views[22] For centuries, Maasai lived only on the meat, blood, and milk from the herds they raised. Here, a young boy helps roast our goat. Views[18] Blood - this bowl fresh from our goat - is consumed as nourishment and in gratitude to E'ngai (God) during celebrations and ceremonies. Views[21] Which of these guys is not true Maasai?? Sankale and Mayani bid farewell to a traditionally dressed Ive. Views[29] The women dressed Mi in traditional clothes; here, she poses with our host's mother, Sinoi. Views[31]
 
The community overwhelmed us with a week of generosity and openness to inter-cultural exchange, and then gathered to bid us farewell with prayers, speeches and gifts. Views[27] Smiles hide the reluctant farewell as Mi and Ive accept a goodbye calabash (gourd, this one for collecting milk) from our hardworking but funloving host, Tumaina. Views[41] The sun sets over the Kenyan bush, leaving a sillhouette of majestic Mount Kilimanjaro. Views[25]   

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