yesterday i go to guatemala

Xela to Lago Atitlan

GUATEMALA | Sunday, 13 September 2009 | Views [53] | Comments [1]

Don´t be expecting daily updates, but here´s my first attempt at writing in a blog instead of a mass email. So after 3 weeks of studying spanish at a small school in Quetzaltenango-a ´big´city by Guatemalan standards-I was ready to leave for a less urban locale. The school and family were great, but I was eager to escape the incessant black diesel exhaust of the chicken buses and feel more comfortable walking around after 7pm. And after the first chicken bus incident of nearly rolling off a cliff around a blind curve (see previous photos) I opted instead for a 3 day hike with a great volunteer run guide company called Quetzaltrekkers. Only got one other student to go with, while the rest scoffed at the idea. Aside from half of the 14 person group (myself included) getting food poising after the first days, and me already having a slight cold, the hike was well worth it. The weather and views were beautiful and it felt so good to be outside for three days straight. Everything was green, with little other color, since I´m guessing flowers don´t grow so well at such high altitudes--more than 3000meters at the peak of the hike. The country is also increcibly hilly, even for walking, yet so much of the steep hillsides were covered in acres of corn and other crops. And more corn. Can´t imagine having to tend to those crops, but I guess that´s the land that´s available. And even as we rested to take a break from our not so heavy backpacks (also one of many cigarette breaks for half the group), a family of 9-10 year old children strolled by carrying incredibly heavy bundles of wood via straps around their foreheads. Our (also N. American) guide could barely carry one of the bundles as he responded to the children´s chants of ´ayuda me, ayude me´.

After crossing a small river 15-ish times, mostly in the dark, on the second day of hiking, it was so nice to arrive at Don Pedro´s house for a big meal and little bit of sleep. First time in the last few days that I could eat without my stomach hurting. Would have even eaten his famous chicken if it hadn´t been too late to change my vegetarian order. The one bite I did have was delicious, though.

Although the first two days were already worth it for me, waking up at 3am on the third to watch the sunrise over the lake and it´s surrounding volcanoes made the hike that much better. After a few more hours of hiking to get down to the water and have lunch in a town called San Juan, I was already happy with my decision to change cities. After a few days in a hotel in San Pedro, I´m now living with a family with a cute 7year old girl, a 27 yr old mom (start having kids young here!)who works at the bank and a dad who owns one of the lanchas (boats that take locals and tourists around the lake for pretty cheap) for only Q1200 a month (about $150) including 3 meals a day and use of their computer with internet! Walked with the family friday night to watch middle-high schoolers dance to mixes of Michael Jackson, Pitbull, 50 cent and other rap music from the US in celebration of Guatemala´s independence day, sept 15. And today walked to the Sunday market with Clarita to buy tons of fruit and veggies (and meat) for the week for not much more than $20US. Then made lunch with the family to take to the beach across the lake. Even made tofu (need to work on my tortilla making skills, though). Although the main street along the water in this town is pretty touristy, I´ve found that as long as I wander alone or with the family, there´s plenty of opportunity to practice my spanish and explore the local´s part of town. Hopefully my voice will be back by the time I start classes again on Monday!