AFTERNOON TEA

On July 15, 2012, the 58th day of a 70-day tour of the Olympic torch across the British Isles, the flame was carried through the streets of the Bailiwick of Guernsey. The torch travelled from Havelet past Castle Cornet and along North Esplanade before turning inland. After a trip through Le Pollet and the High Street, it reappeared on the seafront, passed the Victoria and Albert Piers and ended at the Val des Terres. Unbeknownst to me whilst watching this, honestly, less than thrilling event on television, I would be exploring these very streets and the very same Castle Cornet on June 2, 2014!

I came to be in the remote home of 15-year resident Victor Hugo via participation in the 70th Anniversary of D-Day Cruise organized by The National World War II Museum of New Orleans. Our cruise ship tendered into St. Peter Port and I wandered for a time along the narrow, cobblestoned roads. Although a well-educated local guide provided interesting details for the group, I treasured the time to explore a place that time had architecturally forgotten on my own. The residences and establishments alike were formidable structures. Large, heavy grey colored stones came to life with strikingly vibrant flower boxes positioned just so under nearly every window at ground level and high above the street. Bright green, red or blue paint adorned the doors; begging you to enter the numerous antique shops, hotels and banks. The inhabitants were a reflection of the buildings – spirited, welcoming, and grey. It was also distinct pleasure to meet and converse with the adult children who lived through the German occupation of Guernsey like author Molly Bihet.

The highlight of the tour to Castle Cornet, besides its five museums, four historic gardens, outstanding views and amazing gardens, was the 1782 turret clock. It is located in a room at the top of a long, external staircase. The clock’s dial or face is remote from the movement. I watched mesmerized as the gears, pulleys and levers all labored to mark the passing of a single precious minute. Incredible!

As the birthplace of the Guernsey cow, no excursion would be complete without partaking of Afternoon Tea at the Moores Central Hotel. The menu is beyond scrumptious! My scones were top heavy with Guernsey butter and cream!

No better place than the Island of Guernsey for Victor Hugo to be exiled. It is conducive to quiet respite and rich with culture. Although remote, it is anything but boring and definitely worth the trip!