My thoughts about . . .

All the WAY!

carol — Tue, 16 Jun 2009 22:36:00 GMT

As I got closer and closer to Km 0, my anticipation and excitement rose. A few pit stops on the Way were my only stops. I was on a mission. Coming over Monte Gozo, about 3kms away from destination, everything changed. Excitement and anticipation both disappeared.

It was such a uninspiring walk. Garry from Spanish Adventures included this in his notes to me but I didn't really pay attention. Well, he was right. It was a boring, disappointing and seemingly never-ending 3km. Those 3km, which felt like 20, were on a major thoroughfare with shops, stores, people, chaos. Ok, I might be exaggerating. It wasn't that chaotic but compared to my last week being in an enchanted forest, it was. I just wanted to get my Compostela at the pilgrim's office and go to the Cathedral.

Things changed when I walked into the Cathedral. It was uplifting and inspiring to see a church so packed. It was standing room only. Most of the mass was in Spanish. I could get about 40% but in any case, the inspiration came not from the homily but from the hundreds (or maybe it was thousands?) of people in the same place all having had a similar experience. Despite the depressing Way to the Cathedral, the Way out was satisfying, rewarding and uplifting.

Show me the WAY

carol — Tue, 16 Jun 2009 14:22:00 GMT

So, I arrived at Santiago de Compostela today before noon as planned. I wrote another entry before stepping out this morn. Well fortunately, there were two other early birds this morning, a French couple. If it hadn't been for them, I would have taken the wrong turn for sure. It was kind of dark but that wasn't the problem. The problem was with signage.. or the lack of a marker or arrow when there were 3 possible streets to take.

The gentlemen sniffed it out and lead the way. For the next couple of hours I followed behind, not losing sight of their red backpacks.. just in case.

At a certain point, they stopped off and I carried on. There are plenty of mile markers, shells and yellow arrows for the most part. . .until you are just 15km away from kilometer 0, that is. Incredible but the mile markers disappear and signage is noticeably less.

I had walked for 5 days and on day 6, I had the most trouble with losing my way. It's true. I could possibly get lost trying to get out of a paper bag. That tells you about the first 5 days and the heavy use and much appreciated! yellow arrows indicating the direction. I didn't get lost.

The last 15 kms I asked if I was going the right to at least 5 people and 4 of them were locals. I guess that is an average of every 3 miles. After having climbed up a hill, there was a cyclist behind me walking his bike up. I waited for him to ask which way to go. Then, I flagged down a car to ask the same question. School kids were playing soccer on a basketball court and they heard my same pregunta. Basically, there was no way I was going to go any extra kilometers out of my way. I wanted to stay on the right Way:-)

Hit the highWAY??

carol — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 19:40:00 GMT

Some parts of the Way are alongside concrete highways. There is a strange feeling. You can walk for hours in a fairy tale like forest - huge trees that form a canopy over the dirt path, wild flowers with bright colors, birds chirping and little creeks with crystal clear water. It is such a quiet tranquil setting that it doesn't seem real.. Then, boom, it is real because the path comes onto the highway with cars zipping by so fast it makes your head spin.

I have come to learn that there are various paths on this Camino Frances. The woodsy fairy tale one and the modern concrete one. At various points you can opt for one or the other. Other times, there is just one option.

As I passed another walker this morning, we exchanged a few pleasantries. Hours later, I arrived on an unavoidable concrete part of the Way and decided to stop for an OJ. The woman I had spoken to and passed was sitting at an outdoor table at the cafe. Wait! How'd that happen? Was I so lost in my thoughts that I never saw her walk by me? That's when I found out there was a fast track to Santiago.

I, however, will forego the Speedy Gonzalez route and take the long way. I'll be on the lookout for Hansel and Gretel... BTW, were those kids Spanish??

Light the WAY

carol — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 19:31:00 GMT

5:55am and I am sitting in my hotel room waiting for dawn to break. It is still too dark out to go walking. My goal is to get to Santiago in time for the noon day mass. Just to be sure, I decided last night to give myself 6 hours. It's the last 20km which I should do in 4.5 or 5 hours. But now I am thinking even if I leave at 6:30am, there is still plenty of time. That is if there is enough light in a half hour's time.

Last night after dinner, I went out to snap a few pics. There wasn't anything in particular. In fact, it was the highway but I wanted to get a photo of the daylight. At 9:30pm, there was still so much daylight. It was about 10:30ish when a bit more of darkness set in. I have noticed this the past nights and each time I am surprised by it. Yes, I am in Northern Spain, but Spain isn't that far north . . .

I am getting antsy. I can't watch any more BBC. Fortunately, I hear people in the hallway and that is a good sign. Others have the same idea of getting on the Way early this morning.

So, I will head out. Other pilgrims won't light the way...but I hope they lead it.

HeadWAY

carol — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 12:36:00 GMT

Today's walk was easy—very few hills! Or maybe there weren't so few and I am just getting a little better at getting up them. I think I am making some headway. At least, I don't agonize as much when I am at the foot of a hill. Plus, today was perfect walking weather. The temperature must have been in the 60s. I walked about 20km from Arzua to Rua. This morning I wasn't obsessing about my camera (like yesterday) but about my bowels.

I wanted to get on the Way by 7:00am. So, I set my alarm for 6:15. Instead, nature called at 5ish. With uncomfortable stomach pain, I jolted out of bed and into the bathroom. I cursed the tortilla with queso I had the night before. Feeling better (or so I thought), I went to the cafe on the ground floor of the hotel to have some tea and bread. I had to use the bathroom there too. Hmm, what to do? Do I start walking and then risk being in the middle of nowhere if nature calls a third time? Do I wait it out?

I took a swig of Pepto (man, am I glad I packed that!) and hit the pavement. I arrived at this evening's hotel at around noon and had forgotten all about this morning's episode...until I saw the menu in the hotel restaurant-- tortilla con queso.

In any case, this was my penultimate day of walking and I am just 20kms from Santiago de Compostela. Headway has for sure been made.

"One" WAY

carol — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 11:53:00 GMT

A month or so before leaving, I was a little apprehensive about walking the Way alone. Once I got all of those “what if” questions out of my mind, I was fine with my decision. Now, that I am here, I see there would be no other way for me but to go it alone.

You can go your own pace, stop when you want, continue on when you want, basically do exactly what you want and when with no pressure to accommodate another's pace.

Someone I met who is walking the entire 750km echoed my thoughts. She had started off in France with a friend and within their second day, they parted amicably. They decided each had her own agenda.

You see it when you chat with others on the Way. You start to slow down or the other stops to take a picture, or in my case, when there is an incline—each goes at their own pace and drops off maybe saying goodbye or see you later but with no pressure to keep the same gait.

I like my own company enough that I could walk for hours without talking to anyone. There are, however, lots of people around. So, if you feel like chit-chatting, there are many opportunities. You just have to hold back a while and sooner or later, another pilgrim will come along...but then who knows if that person wants to talk!:-)

My WAY

carol — Sun, 14 Jun 2009 18:56:00 GMT

Frank said (or should I say, sang) it first, I did it my way. And that is how the Camino/St James Way is done—your way, my way, his way, her way. There is no right way. After four days, I am no expert on the way to do the Way. Talking, observing and listening I have come to understand that any way you do it, it's fine. It's your Way and it is a completely individual choice.

I am doing what is referred to as “Camino Light”. I am carrying a day pack and I started in Sarria. My backpack is light. I carry just the daily essentials--water, rain gear, camera, cash etc. Every day, I have my suitcase sent ahead to my next destination. Another thing is the starting point. In order to get the final Compostela, it is necessary for walkers to get stamps along the last 100km. Sarria is 115km from Santiago. Hence, a typical starting point for the “lightweights”

The reasons for doing the Way are as varied as the starting points, number of kilometers per day, number of kilograms carried on one's back and number of stops. Individual decisions are the order of the Way.

No matter which way you do it, all along the Way, you hear two frequent words. Cyclists, walkers and lightweights too wish each other a ”Buen Camino.”

Up Up and aWAY

carol — Sun, 14 Jun 2009 06:20:00 GMT

This morning leaving the hotel, I ran into another American that I had met yesterday. I was about to suggest walking together but then I remembered my decision. When I woke up this morn, I decided to do today's 15km on my own, giving me time to think, reflect, soul search, find inspiration, etc etc etc.

Well, after obsessing about that damn camera of mine for at least the first 5km of my walk, I remembered I was supposed to be pensive and reflective . . .not obsessive.

Along the route, I have seen scads of these unusual structures. They are narrow rectangular boxes that sit very high off the ground. (camera acting up so not sure if I have a photo) The first ones I saw were very ornate and decorated with religious symbols. Could they be some kind of tomb for pilgrims who perished along the way?? I do not tend to have an overactive imagination but I couldn't come up with anything else. So, just when I started reflecting (about what I am not sure) on my walk, I noticed that one of them was open! And it was full of corn. Mystery solved. The structure is the Galician version of a silo. Considering this part of the Way is through farmland, it makes sense that this rainy region has a high rise silo.

As I marveled and snapped pics, an Austrian arrived and did the same thing. The next kilometers were spent chatting with him. He stopped off at a cafe along the way and I continued on, assuming I would tackle my thoughts. Instead, I had to tackle a couple of uphill climbs. When I round a bend and see an incline, my only thought is to get up it.

Back home in Rome, I would go about 30 minutes out of my way just so I wouldn't have to walk uphill (and I live in Monteverde!) Here there is no choice. There is nowhere to go but up. In the end, I make it up each hill, sweaty and breathless but also satisfied and surprised.

Tomorrow I have 20km ahead of me. I should be able to find some time for reflection.. that is if there aren't many uphill climbs.

MY FEET

carol — Sat, 13 Jun 2009 10:04:00 GMT

I knew footwear was key in making the camino a pleasant walk. My first hours on the way I was paying close attention to shoes. It seemed like everyone was wearing sturdy serious hiking boots and very few of us were wearing sneakers. Hmm, I started to wonder if the majority knew something that I didn't and if I would find out later. An Irish woman I met at SCQ suggested wearing “woolly” hiking socks which keep your feet dry. I bought a pair immediately.

But surprise of all surprises—I haven't had any problems with my feet. No blisters, No sores, No pain, No barking dogs, No use of band aids. No nothing:-)

Every eve I slather on deep moisturizing foot cream with mint and lavender. I slather it on basically because I want to use it up. I need to ditch the heavy jar it comes in before I get my next Ryanair flight!(see previous entry)

Well, I should clarify. When I say no pain, I am referring to my feet. There are aches and pains.. just not in my feet where I had expected. So, I feel like I am ahead of the game...or I guess, in this case, ahead of the walk.

the Way to Melide

carol — Sat, 13 Jun 2009 09:59:00 GMT

Another day of beautiful countryside after the fog lifted, that is. Having gone to bed at 9pm, I was up way before the rooster. I kid you not.. It was right outside my bedroom window. I was already up and dressed when he started cockle-doodle -doing.

For the first two hours the fog was very dense. Good thing I had come this way with the taxi the day before. Otherwise, at a certain point, I would have probably taken the wrong road.

Robert Frost wrote about the road less traveled...and making all the difference. Not today. Not on the camino. I want the road well traveled. There are lots of yellow arrows along the way pointing in the correct direction. Then, there are mile markers with the omnipresent shell. All indicating you are in fact on the way to Santiago.

When I have some doubt, I look carefully for signs or in the distance for other pilgrims. If need be, I would just stand at the fork and wait til others arrive. So far, just a few times the arrows or mile markers have failed me. In those instances, I looked at the path and forwent my natural inclination of taking the one less traveled.

I walked a lot of today's route with Renate, a tiny German woman. I swear her backpack weighed more than she did. I was very impressed with her. She has been on the camino for a month now and had such an incredible energy. Thanks to her, I did the 20km to Melide in less time than I had imagined I would. I enjoyed her company and not wanting to slow her down, I walked a bit faster uphill than the previous day. She was a good influence. I even stopped at one of the cafes for a rest.

Every so often, you'll find a bar/cafe with a handful of walkers and cyclists sitting at the outdoor tables. It looks very inviting but my fear was not sitting down.. but being able to get up and continue walking afterwards.

The whole time today I was wondering if the photos would turn out. So, each time I used my digital camera, I then had to dig into my other pant pocket and pull out my disposal camera. It got to be tiring so, I snapped fewer and fewer. Renate offered to send me her photos. So, that was a third back up. Thankfully, the camera d-loaded properly just a few minutes ago. Nonetheless, I will still use my €5 disposal again tomorrow.