Whale sharks...that's the only reason for me being here. A chance to dive or snorkel with the elusive beauties. It's probably people like me that have scared them off - this is one of the so-called whale shark seasons, and they haven't been spotted for a month. For once i doubt there will be a next time, i don't particularly wish to return here.
Utila is the western hemispheres answer to Koh Tao. A backpacker filled, churn-a-certified-diver-out-a-minute party island of almost home comfort. Pizza, chocolate, cinema, bars, pubs and clubs - all in English, all full of beautiful, fit, tattoo riddled, young divers. No wonder some people get stuck here. Not me though, I've come for the diving - 10 dives of beautiful corals, crap equipment and what i consider a lack of variety and even number of fish. I think they've been scared off too. I did get to see a long snouted seahorse though, and i almost got to snorkel with a large pod of spinner dolphins...
A few dolphins had separated from the main group and were playing right in front of our little boat. After a while the main group started to come over, the Captain judged the timing, we all lined up an the sides of the boat, snorkels, masks, fins at a ready..."1, 2, 3, GO!" arms, legs and bubbles everywhere. Mask has come off, quick put it on...arms, legs and nothing...they've all been and gone. They whizzed right on past us, only a couple of people in the group saw the pod under the water. Still, i had a couple of great dives and bizarrely one of my best was because of the rain. Yes rain, I'd almost forgotten what it is - I've only seen it a dozen or so times in the last year and a bit. This was rain to make up for all that i had missed, and we were diving it - it was bloody freezing. Going under the water was a warm relief and have you ever seen rain smashing on top of the sea from underneath it? It's a purely magical experience. Near the surface you can see the individual drops shooting into the water like bullets and the noise was strangely a comfort to me - like rain on the roof when you're wrapped up warm and safe inside. I spent most of my 2 dives floating on my back or laying on the bottom looking up, i couldn't tell you what fish i saw.
I don't really like the island, go to the back lanes of the main town and it's a dirty slum. Go to the Cays - the tiny islands off the SW coast and it's great. Development seems to have been unplanned, or badly managed and it isn't very attractive. There's a good feeling to the island though, and i can appreciate why people like it.
I'm looking forward to my next stop and for once i know where I'm going - i wonder if I'll make it this time?
