PNG is the final frontier of travel. Just ask anyone who's been there. There's almost no tourism infrastructure, few regions are connected by roads, and you can still find people using stone axes to chop down trees.
And yet, it has more than 700 languages, as many unique cultures, pristine trekking, and world-class surfing. Wrecks from World War II lure experienced divers from around the world. And few countries can compete with the overwhelming hospitality of Papua New Guineans.
It beckons independent, counter-culture travelers, but it can also be dangerous. The warrior mentality hasn't been dulled by 60 years of Western influence, and violent crime is rampant in large cities and parts of the Highlands. Anyone going there must take the following precautions.
Tips for Travelling Safely in Papua New Guinea
1. Watch where you go
In PNG there's no such thing as public land. Every inch of space belongs to the people: to tribes or families. If you go exploring on your own, you might trespass on someone's land and create an ugly situation.
Make sure you know where you're going. Ask where you should and shouldn't go. Better yet, have a local go with you.
2. Get a guide
The people of PNG respect associations. You could be seen as a strange intruder or a trusted guest depending on who you come with. A local guide will help you make a good first contact with a new village, and he will detect subtle signs of danger, steering you to safety.
3. Don't walk at night
They're called razkols, and they take to the streets at sundown. They're opportunistic criminals, seeking an easy victim to rob. For this reason, no one should be walking outside after dark.
4. Watch your wallet
Armed robbery is rare in PNG, but pick-pocketing and other opportunistic crimes do happen, especially at markets. Don't make your wallet an easy grab.
5. Carry sanitizer
Personal hygiene in PNG is not exactly up to Western standards. Visitors quickly observe that body odour is not a concern to them. Neither do they wash their hands with regularity. You'll be shaking a lot of hands, so keep them clean with an alcohol-based sanitizer.
6. Learn some Pidgin
Even though the language of the media, government and business is English, fewer than 20% of the population went to school to learn it. If you want to communicate with this diverse nation, which boasts more than 700 languages, it's through Pidgin, a kind of broken English.
It will win the goodwill of adults and make children frenzied with laughter.
7. Ask for help
You can't possibly be fully prepared for PNG. There is precious little published material on it and no tourist information offices. But most PNGers are lovely people who feel privileged to talk to visitors, and much more so to help them. Don't be shy to ask for suggestions, for a helping hand, even a place to sleep for the night.
8. Enjoy the attention
Have you been stared at by 50 people as you walked down the road or shopped for fruit? Ever had an entourage of kids trailing you in the streets?
The experience is intense but harmless. Here, staring is not rude; people do it out of curiosity, as they rarely see Westerners, especially in remote villages. Learn to enjoy this and interact with your captive fans.
9. Keep your trouble radar sharp
If something doesn't feel right, trust your gut. Someone might want to take you away from the public's view or make an unusual offer. Say thank you and walk away.
Behind the Backpack
Roberto Rocha traded a job in technology journalism to a one-year world trip,
surrounding himself with fruits and nuts instead of Apples. He's
originally from Brazil but has settled in Montreal, Canada , where,
miraculously, he still prefers soccer over hockey. He lives and travels
with his girlfriend Bianca. Read more about their travels on their blog, Mojotrotters.
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